User Panel
Posted: 2/2/2020 6:07:09 PM EDT
Can the safety be removed?
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Why would you want or need to?
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One well at a time, Drill Baby Drill!
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles. I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION |
Safety is a bit sensitive to any upward pressure and, will partially engage. Makes the trigger suddenly hard to pull.
At first I thought there was something wrong with the gun. Changed my grip and now it doesn't do it any more but, I would like to get rid of it if I can to avoid this situation. |
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Originally Posted By beemerman:
Safety is a bit sensitive to any upward pressure and, will partially engage. Makes the trigger suddenly hard to pull. At first I thought there was something wrong with the gun. Changed my grip and now it doesn't do it any more but, I would like to get rid of it if I can to avoid this situation. View Quote Not tryin' to preach to you, but I really would like to know what you're trying to accomplish. @beemerman |
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One well at a time, Drill Baby Drill!
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles. I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION |
Well it comes from the factory with or, without manual safety. Version without the frame safety, it has a trigger and striker block safety.
Version with manual frame safety has trigger and, striker block safety. My point is that when I am shooting the gun the manual safety will partially engage and, cause the gun to malfunction. So I asked if anyone has or,can it be removed without any issues. So..... |
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I'd like to remove the manual safety as well. I didn't want manual safety. But wasn't willing to pay more for a safety free version, as that seemed to be the case when I purchased.
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Originally Posted By beemerman:
Well it comes from the factory with or, without manual safety. Version without the frame safety, it has a trigger and striker block safety. Version with manual frame safety has trigger and, striker block safety. My point is that when I am shooting the gun the manual safety will partially engage and, cause the gun to malfunction. So I asked if anyone has or,can it be removed without any issues. So..... View Quote |
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Thanks for the reply CT. I would not mind the gap as it is just for plinking, training, etc. not really for self defense.
I don't suppose you would be willing to give some instructions on the process? Any pitfalls to avoid while doing it that you came across? |
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Sugru
This stuff works really well at filling in voids on polymer frames. I sticks, but can be removed when you want to. |
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Thanks guys .
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@beemerman
Were you able to remove your safety using these instructions? Any issues since it’s been removed? |
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'The horse is made ready for battle, but victory rests with the LORD' - Proverbs 21:31
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Originally Posted By 44-40pro: Well considering that the safety SHOULD BE ON until you are ready to actually shoot something, I'm still not seeing the issue. I shoot a variety of guns for SD/HD. Some have safeties and some don't. For those that do I ALWAYS have the safety on until I draw and take aim at a target. My Sig P250 for example has no safety at all. It is essentially a 17 shot revolver DA only gun. Safety is no booger hook on the trigger until ready. My G2 has a safety, and it is always deployed until I'm ready to shoot. Not tryin' to preach to you, but I really would like to know what you're trying to accomplish. @beemerman View Quote Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By theGOLDENchild: I followed the above instructions and removed the safety. Then I made these plugs on my 3d printer, using a design I found on thingiverse. I thought they came out really well. https://i.imgur.com/9WVdwkz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/A54Rk0J.jpg View Quote @theGOLDENchild Nice! If I threw a few bucks your way would you be willing to make me some for mine? How hard was it to remove the safety? I read though the previous persons steps, but he doesn't explain how to tear down some of the parts. Just wondering if it is a task I want to take on. I am going to see if there is a youtube video of someone showing how to take it down/apart. |
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Yeah, I can make some for ya. Send me a message and we’ll has out details.
I thought it was fairly straight forward. I think it took all of 10 minutes and most of that was trying to wrap my head around the previous instructions. Now that I’ve done it once, it’s a couple minute job. |
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Today I successfully attempted to remove my safety levers from my TX22 comp using the instructions in that post above.
At first it didn't seem like those instructions were correct, however, they do work. You gently have to pull and in a way pry the right safety lever (part#20 from diagram) away. What worked for me was I took some fine needle nose pliers that I covered in some electrical tape so nothing would get marred and then just gently but firmly pried and pulled the lever off by gently wiggling it as I pulled on it while it was in the safe (up) position. Those pins he mentions to be careful not to fall out where in my striker block pretty good but I made sure to keep my fingers over them just in case. |
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Pleasantly surprised how easy it was to remove. And no sear spring to send into orbit like an m&p22c!
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Thanks to @CheeksTac for posting instructions on this.
@theGOLDENchild Do your frame plugs just push into place in the frame and fit snuggly? Or do they require some type of adhesive? |
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'The horse is made ready for battle, but victory rests with the LORD' - Proverbs 21:31
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They fit in snug, no adhesive required. The way they were designed, once everything is reassembled, they can't fall out.
Originally Posted By Nate19: Thanks to @CheeksTac for posting instructions on this. @theGOLDENchild Do your frame plugs just push into place in the frame and fit snuggly? Or do they require some type of adhesive? View Quote |
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