My primary handguns are two Glock 19s which are equipped with lights and red dots. I have been on a quest to do two things; 1) improve trigger pull and 2) make both triggers feel the same. At any given time, one of these guns is my carry pistol and the other is used for practice and competition and I swap them out monthly. I want them as close to identical as possible. Almost all of my handgun shooting is done with one of these two pistols.

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Over the years I've ended up with many connectors (stock and aftermarket) and triggers. What I have realized is there is considerable variation in both stock and after market components such as the trigger, disconnector and striker. When I started out, one of my pistols had a significantly heavier trigger than the other, but when I swapped slides, it turned out to be due to the striker assembly. I solved this by very carefully polishing the spring cups to make them travel easier in the striker channel. All of my other components have been polished, such as mating surfaces on the trigger, connector, striker and safety plunger. Doing this made a big difference, but the triggers still had different weights and break points despite being outfitted with the same components.

I have two Overwatch triggers and a few stock gen 3 trigger bars. One of the Overwatch triggers was smooth and "mushy" and the other was heavy and crisp. I bought more stock gen 3 triggers and found similar variation in them. Out of this collection of parts, mixed and matched until I got two identically feeling triggers that were relatively light, smooth, and with a short reset. I to achieve this I did not necessarily use the same connectors. In fact, I have one basic lone wolf connector that works very well, and the other one was radically different when used in the same gun.

Most of us have a stock Glock or two that have fantastic trigger pulls, and we also have Glocks with absolutely horrendous trigger pulls. This experience has taught me if you have a bad Glock trigger, buy a couple of gen 3 trigger assemblies and see if one of them is better than the rest. Also try a few different connectors. This variation also explains why some have great experiences with a particular trigger or connector and others have terrible experiences. If the aftermarket trigger uses the stock connector bar, it will suffer from the same variation in construction as the stock triggers. You can buy six or seven stock triggers for the cost of most aftermarket triggers. Once you find one you like, you can then easily change out the trigger shoe if you want.

Stock Glock triggers with a "-" connecter and about 1,000 rounds through each gun.

You're done.

Not too much more to be done, they are an inconsistent bunch.

If you get into a shooting situation the opposing attorney will make a big thing out of trigger modifications.  I get the reason, but they don't, and they will look for anything to accuse you to muddy the water.

Shoot it.

Has that ever happened in real life?

Please stop parroting this horseshit.

Throw an APEX trigger group in it. Do not mess with the springs.

Then, learn to shoot it.

AND THIS, FOLKS, IS TOTAL, COMPLETE AND UTTER BULLSHIT...REPEATED BY A GUY WHO IS REPEATING WHAT HE HEARD "ON THE INTERNET."

NOT TRUE. NOT TRUE. NOT TRUE.

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...yeah if you are pleading not guilty due to negligent discharge... the legal modifications of a gun is not going to affect anything if the overall outcome was that you defended your life by ending another. so then, if someone shoots a person with a competition gun legally, and someone shoots a person with a stock gun legally, they are not going to argue the competition gun negates the legality of lethal force. (prosecutor: your honor, the defendant altered his firearm with a "hair tirgger", this means he wanted to kill someone, therefore his use of lethal force is illegal...?) it would be a different story if you drew your firearm and you fired and hit something else, but if you are legal in your use of deadly force, the condition of the gun does not matter. again, only if you shoot someone unintentionally and your defense is that you did not mean to shoot them, then maybe, but if thats your defense that already suggests you are in the wrong.

Nothing wrong with this at all buuuuut;

For those that like to tinker, or are slightly obsessed (who me?), glocks can have the most awesome trigger with some fine tuning of the factory parts.

For me, polish; striker, outside of striker spring, safety plunger, safety plunger hole, trigger bar, connector, remove all roughness were the trigger bar is sheared during production, especially were the shark fine engages the safety plunger

All guns get a reduced plunger spring, carry guns stay otherwise stock, range guns get a 4.5 striker spring

I don't have to wait 5000 rounds for a grit free trigger

My triggers damn near bring a tear to my eye every time I squeeze them...for a few bucks

OP is right though, they are just stamped, mass produced parts and it's damn hard to get any two glocks to feel the same even with the same parts

Recently watched a podcast with Massas Ayoob and he was involved in a case where the prosecutor tried to make a big deal out of the firearm being a Colt “Cobra”

I don’t think it’s out of the realm of possibility that a prosecutor would claim it was a hair trigger in front of a jury.

To the OP I would add...

Striker assembly and channel liner
Do the complete Johnny Glock.
Buff down the OD of the spring cups
Buff the spring OD
Buff out the channel liner

Buff = Dremel + polishing wheel + Mother's Mag Polish
Buff channel liner = Drill Motor + .270 bore mop + Mother's

Connector
The OEM "Dot" connector can yield similar performance to the OEM "Minus" connector for only $5.00

Springs
If this is a duty gun you don't want to monkey with springs.

For a range gun :
Wolff reduced power safety plunger spring
Wolff 4.0lb striker spring
OEM 5lb trigger spring

As in Wolff Gunsprings, not Lone Wolf.

Which proves you can’t win if you choose to play that game. The mere fact you own a firearm can in and of itself be used to argue you were bloodthirsty, and there’s virtually no gun a retard jury can’t be convinced is somehow evil.

Apex trigger and Ghost Rocket connector and spring kit. Have done on the entire Glock Family. Gen 3's & 4's.

Plus a knowledgeable armorer would have to measure trigger pull, then take the gun apart to inspect the modifications if/when trigger pull was other than stock. Is that ever done?

I've never heard of such a thing. Usually when they're doing forensics on a gun it's to match it to a murder weapon. I've never heard of anything other than forensics being a factor in any case. Now if it were a negligent discharge, that might be another story, and I suppose under those circumstances they could build a case that the gun was made unsafe by whatever mod you used. Even then, though, it's kind of black and white. Either you messed up, in which case it wasn't the gun's fault and you're going away for negligent homicide, or it wasn't your fault, in which case the manufacturer of the mod is getting sued. I just don't see a plausible scenario where you haven't done something wrong and some mod you made is being used against you in court.

I think there's a much greater case to be made for all those cosmetic features you see everywhere now. To a jury, a trigger looks like a trigger. But a prosecutor might have a field day if you've got one of those pimped out guns with skulls and catchy little remarks. He wouldn't even have to say anything about it. He could just admit it as evidence and let the jury look at it. They would be thinking this guy is nuts before they even heard the case. An Apex trigger...they wouldn't even be able to tell it from the stock trigger, and if the prosecutor tried to make a big deal out of it then not only would he lose the jury's attention but it would open up the field for you to bring in a bunch of expert witnesses to make him look like the giant jackass that he is.

^^^ Agree.

No Punisher skulls on your magazine base plates or slide cover plates.

What I can't believe are the "smile, wait for flash" engravings. The only thing engraved on your gun should be the legally required markings. You make some mods, and the only thing they can demonstrate is that you like guns and have more money than sense. But those little engravings can definitely be used to build a case about your mental state and argue you were looking for an excuse. It always comes down to a jury's definition of reasonable, and that determination is often a popularity contest. They have to be able to put themselves in your shoes, and it's hard for most people to identify with someone like that. Unfortunately, facts can't be seen by most people outside of the context of "does he belong, is he one of us."

Stock trigger with 1000 rounds through it.

I guess my point is I tried six different stock gen 3 trigger bars after the polishing job including two Overwatch triggers. They all feel substantially different. Some are heavy and crisp, while others are lighter and smoother. I picked the two best ones, moved my Overwatch trigger shoes to them, and played with four different minus connectors until I got both triggers feeling both excellent and exactly the same.

Point being: if your trigger sucks and polishing didn't help, try a few more $15 stock gen 3 triggers before rage quitting and trading it in on a Sig P320 or S&W M&P.

I find your conclusions interesting.
However I wish a person that has started a post could delete the posts of people that hijack their thread.

I like when the trigger has a resistance then crisp break opposed to that spongy feeling all the way to the break.  And its hit or miss if the aftermarket parts will give you the desired result.

Too late to refute the comment in question. Just glad it’s been addressed multiple times. I hear this nonsense all the time. Heck, maybe I even bought it at one point in time.

Bottom line...a prosecutor could try making a modified trigger a point of contention. However, any attorney just slightly more competent than Aimless can easily shut that shit down.

What you're describing is a defined "wall".
If you like that, then stay with an OEM "Minus" or "Dot" connector.

A typical Ghost connector (there are about 9 or 10 types) is going to give you what's called a "rolling" break.
There's no defined wall with a rolling break.

More Massad Ayoob Bullshit.  Completely not true and yet another reason to ignore everything he says.

Get an Apex trigger.

He's the one who said that?

So I was going to make a separate post, but maybe someone will read this far and have a suggestion...

I have owned a ton of glocks (mostly G19s), and I've tried out an insane combination of variations of triggers, connectors, springs, etc.

I now mainly carry a 19.5MOS (actually, I mainly carry a 43X, but I do carry the 19).
What I WANT in a trigger:
A SHORT TAKEUP that hits a DEFINITIVE WALL, and then BREAKS between 3.5# and 4.25# with very little or NO OVERTRAVEL.  **However, I don't believe in using set-screws near any trigger, since they could potentially back out at some point.

The GHOST Connectors, when fitted, do a great job of getting rid of overtravel; however, they seem to also get rid of any wall (this is the pro 3.3 and the one with the little hood).

No aftermarket trigger I've tried (Agency, Overwatch, Zev, Apex, Skimmer, and one or two others) have ever helped me get a good wall, but they have smoothed out the trigger pull and reduced pre-travel. To me, the standouts are the Overwatch, Agency (not the polymer garbage one), and Apex.

Current setup is:  reduced power safety plunger spring, fitted Ghost pro 3.3, Apex trigger.  It is short, smooth, and has almost no overtravel.  I just wish there was a wall--I much prefer a "two-stage"-like trigger than a short, smooth pull (though that may seem weird to some).

You need to get over your fear of an over travel screw by bonding it in place with something you trust, and I don't mean loctite. Just make sure the gun will still fire if you squeeze the slide tight to the frame, as not enough over travel can cause that.

Johnny Glock has a good video of using a roll pin for pre travel, but I personally wouldn't recommend reducing pre travel on a carry gun.

Only a [-] connector is going to get you are you want to be. I've installed the Ghost also, so we know that isn't gonna happen. A 5.5 oem connector with reduced  safety spring and 4.5 striker spring works also but too crisp for my taste.

Where the trigger bar engages the striker is also an area to tune for a crisp break; a dull edge gives a more rolling feel, a slightly negative sharp edge improves the wall a bit. Proceed at your own risk.

They are not designed to, so don't expect an AM trigger to affect "wall".

Well then get rid of that Ghost connector if you want a defined wall.
Put an OEM Dot or Minus connector in there and you will have what you want.

Any trigger utilizing oem trigger bars will have the same variation as oem triggers. I had four oem triggers and two overwatch triggers. I polished them. I then picked the best two, which happened to be oem triggers, and moved my overwatch shoes over to them.

Again, if you get an overwatch trigger or some other trigger using oem trigger bars, it could be great or it could suck. Again, if your trigger sucks, oem triggers are $15 a piece. Buy a few and pick the best one. I found similar deviation in connectors (particularly aftermarket Lone Wolf).

Meh...I’ve tried a bunch of triggers and springs

Completely confident with the minus - connector and a 6lb trigger return spring, prefer smooth face over serrated

You can't try "a bunch of springs" as long as that 6lb trigger spring is in there.
It is not a "return spring" because it is pulling the wrong way to be a return spring.
Take the assembly out and see which way that spring is pulling....it pulls the wrong way to reset.
The striker spring is the return spring in the Glock system.

Some people use the 6lb trigger spring and it does lessen pull weight because that's the direction it pulls.
BUT, it lessens reset quality and using reduced power striker springs with it can cause reset issues.

6lb Trigger Spring Rating

I will say I think some people use the 6# because the robot like shooter from T.Rex arms recommends it.

Note:
I saw this video and feel much better about not having a wall now. The over-travel is gone, and my trigger pull is nice and smooth and short.. I think he’s right that no one really pulls right up to the wall and holds under pressure.  I personally have no issue going as light as 3#-3.25# on a carry gun, but I think something like 3.75-4# isn’t bad either.  My safety is really keeping the gun snapped into a Kydex holster.

Please stop parroting this anecdotal tripe.

Its as bad as "racking a shotgun to scare an intruder"

I tried the 6 pound striker spring with my overwatch trigger and felt a little too light for my liking. I prefer the dot connector over the minus also. Everything is polished and about 6k rounds through it, no desire to change anything. Definable take-up, wall, a little stacking and then break. Honestly I cant tell how much over travel there is. Ive tried. Reset is good enough but not very concerned about it anyway. I used to ride the reset but am training myself as soon as the trigger breaks get off the trigger and then back on and begin to prep.

Agreed.

For one thing, he's been saying that same crap for 30+ years now, so he's not about to admit fault and walk it back.

For another, back in the day where Mas seems to be stuck (1970s/80s), "modifying your trigger" likely meant something like a 3-lb hair trigger on a 1911 or Model 29.  Dropping a different connector in a Glock or using an Apex shoe isn't even in the same ballpark.

I just polish the shit out of my trigger assembly on all my glocks. (especially the contact surfaces)

Dry fire enough to see where it rubs, polish and repeat until its like glass.

I do find this Black Yikes interesting though

Ayoob used to go on and on about removing the magazine safety from a Browning Hi Power.