I picked up a Ruger LCP Custom a few years ago when it was on sale for around $200 - turns out it was because they were coming out with the LCP II.. Oh well, at least it was the "Custom" version with slightly upgraded trigger. The factory trigger in my "Custom" was an average of 7.5 lbs per my digital Wheeler trigger gauge, which I found a bit heavy for my liking. (I've become a bit of a trigger snob)

I forget where I saw it linked (maybe it was someone linking to their Ruger PC Carbine upgrades), but I came across the M-Carbo website, and perused their upgrades for the Ruger LCP pistols.

I picked up the spring kit, stainless steel guide rod and heavy duty takedown pin (and the "gunsmithing block", not pictured).

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Turns out the LCP Custom has a stainless steel guide rod already, but the M-Carbo one seemed better made so why not.

If you've assembled AR lowers or done any type of trigger upgrades in your pistols you can install these parts yourself. They have EXCELLENT videos that help you, though he does talk a bit fast.

The hardest part for me was removing the firing pin (though using needle nose pliers to re-attach the one spring comes 2nd), it seemed like I needed a third hand to hold everything. I ended up ordering a new punch as the one I had been using was bent from overly-aggressive use in previous projects. I picked up a set of Tekton punches that seem much higher quality. While I waited 2-3 days for the new punch(es) to arrive, I replaced the trigger spring and then put everything (still disassembled) into a Ziplock bag and waited for delivery..

Having the correct size punch made all the difference, and I was able to get the firing pin removed and new spring put in place. Putting everything back together, I ran into another issue. The replacement "heavy duty" takedown pin would not reinsert. The replacement spring seemed to protrude more than the M-Carbo videos showed. I sent a picture to M-Carbo support e-mail who confirmed it did seem to be slightly out of spec. They could send a replacement, but they also said I could simply cut off a piece just enough to allow insertion of the takedown pin. Here's what it looked like pre-snip -

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This was two days ago, and I was heading to the range the next day so I did not want to wait for replacement. With the knowledge I could simply throw the factory one back in if I messed it up, I decided to "snip the tip".

Unfortunately I had to disassemble the gun again - good practice I guess. Very carefully snipping off a small piece of the takedown pin spring I put everything back in. I verified it was secure and it was not coming out on its own. Re-assembly went smooth and while I was able to test the trigger with the slide assembly off, I definitely noticed a difference with it fully assembled.

Pre upgrades, my trigger pull ranged from 6 lb 6 oz to 7 lb 9 oz.
Post upgrades, it ranged from 3 lb 13 oz to 4 lb 9 oz. However in practice it doesn't feel TOO light. There's no "wall", you still need constant trigger pull until it breaks.

One of the issues I had with the factory trigger is after several magazines your trigger finger would start to hurt from the trigger reset. I'm pleased to report that while not eliminated entirely, the "pain" from the reset is vastly reduced. You still need to fully release the trigger (if you're used to "riding the trigger" for the reset, there is a "phantom reset" that isn't the full reset, you need to fully release the trigger before firing again), but I found it still serviceable. Obviously it's not up to the standard of a full Apex trigger but it isn't meant to be - it's a $20 trigger upgrade.

Heading to the range I tested 60 rounds of FMJ and 20 rounds of defensive loads with zero issues. This was with Federal "low recoil" defensive ammo at about 7 yards -

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I replaced the Talon Grips I'd had on there for a few years with some fresh wrap-around style. Helped immensely with controlling recoil. The only other upgrade I need to do is splashing a little orange paint on the front sight to make it a little more visible. For those who don't own an LCP I, the slide does NOT lock back (the LCP II does I believe with the new mags), so reloading is a two-handed operation.

I don't normally carry this gun, but for "ultra light concealment" it's the only gun in my collection that qualifies. Hope this mini review helped inform.

I wish Ruger would have made the Custom design, the standard LCP. The advent of real sights make for a more accurate gun. The larger trigger is amazing compared to the standard plastic. The length of pull is slightly shortened but a welcome change compared to the standard. Good to hear about the new parts working in your gun and getting better results. The pistols have a lot of potential.

Thanks for the comparison - I didn't have a "regular" LCP to compare to. I had considered getting an LCP II but then the size gets slightly bigger which negates the draw of the LCP..

They screwed up not putting real sights on the lcp2. Otherwise it’s the perfect pocket pistol for the price.

I guess I'm backwards.  My LCP 2 isn't my preferred carry gun, that's what the PPQ is for, but there are times/places where a full size isn't convenient to carry/conceal, but the pocket pistol is always in my pocket, as a backup when I'm carrying a  bigger pistol,  and as a primary when I'm not.  So I usually carry the ppq, but I ALWAYS carry the lcp.

Fair enough. I don't usually carry a full-size gun anyway - I'm stuck with 10 rounds so might as well use the smallest gun I'm comfortable with. In the warmer months that's an M&P Shield, though I recently picked up a SIG P365XL that I threw a Holosun 507k on. Similar in size to the Shield so we'll see if I move over to it. Winter I can get away with an M&P 2.0 Compact, with TLR7 mounted.