Hi, I just completed a PF45 in 10MM build.  Took it to the range for the first time today and have been experiencing FTF's.  This happens somewhat randomly and sometimes during a string of fire and also sligshotting the slide on the first round.  Basically the cartridge is going up the ramp and half way into the chamber and getting stick.  If I pull back ever so slightly on the slide when this happens the round straightens out and i can let go of the slide and it will chamber.  When I say pulling back on the slide i mean like a fraction of an inch.  It's an Alphawolf threaded barrel, Rockey Brass slide with all OEM parts in the slide and frame.

I should have taken some pics while at the range but it slipped my mind.  I was shooting 180gr whitebox that advertises at 1080fps IIRC.  Just wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions.  When i got home i did polish the feed ramp and chamber lightly.  It seemed to be amplified if I used a fully loaded mag.  If I only loaded 3-6 rounds it worked fine about 95% of the time.  These were brand new Glock mags I was using.  The slide and barrel lugs and hood were lightly lathered with red and tacky like I use on the previous P80 9mm builds that worked pretty mcuh perfectly out of the box.

BTW this was first time shooting a 10 and other than the malfunction it was pretty awesome.  I can see why there is a following for this cartridge.  Anyway any help or suggestions would be appreciated.  
excuse the typos I've already taken my ambian for the evening.  Thanks guys.

ETA: I just ordered some snap caps and will try to duplicate at home safely and get pics.
Eta2: just to add some pics.  Not sure if you'll be able to anything from them though.
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I would guess you need to just break it in.

That has crossed my mind as well. i shot 150 rounds today.  Will probably do the same tomorrow.  Maybe try something hotter.

I had a similar problem with my 9mm Glock build.  The front locking block had a slight upward tilt to it.  I had to run a straight edge from the top of the rear rails to the front

I ended up having to file and bevel the ends of the locking block then polish it out.  After that it started working better.

You might need to check the width of the locking block. I had a couple other builds and one slide fit was really tight.  The problem was the locking block was wider on one than the other.

Slowly filed it until the slide moved freely then polished the rails. Worked great after that.

Thanks, that definitely sounds worth if investigating.  After the feo T and rear rails were in I did run the frame updised down on some 600 grit but didn't pay especial note to the trueness.  
The slide was a touch tight at first but after the 150 rounds and racking it by hand a few dozen times it has loosened up.

I will defi ately check the locking block though.  It seems I have heard that before about the rails.

Here's some pics of the issue in action.
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So, a new development.  I received 2 ETS 15 round mags that I had ordered today.  I took them and a stock Glock mag to the range.  Well the ETS mags ran about 90-95%.  I ran about 100 rounds through them then switched back to the Glock mag and still had the same issues.  I'm not sure what the difference would be.

From my experience with aftermarket 10mm slides, they dont machine the extractor groove well.

How can I test that.  Try moving the extractor by hand?

Maybe pull the extractor and see how it cycles. Visually inspect the extractor opening in the slide as well.

Lots of variables definitely at play.  As many  Glock parts as possible reduces this issue.  Plus the 10mm being relatively long and a very straight walled case adds to the issues.  I have had a factory Glock 10mm that was very sensitive to recoil spring rates.  Too strong of a spring would cause jams.

From what I have been reading, the factory mag springs are not strong enough.

The ETS mags may have a stronger spring which is why they are more reliable.

I must have gotten lucky, I have a factory G20 slide on a PF45 frame and the thing hasn't had a single failure with several different types of ammo.

I was actually considering a KKM barrel, but now I'm thinking what is the point since it functions so well as is.

Seems a lot of people are having FTF's, usually the rounds are pointed slightly to the left when they jam.

For grins, try putting an ETS spring in your Glock mag.
If it works, you may be able to get 10% extra power springs for your Glock mags from Wolff Gunsprings (or elsewhere).

No, remove the extractor and see how well it hand-cycles.  Lone wolf had to replace a slide of mine that the extractor groove was cut wrong on.

So with the pf45 frame specifically you have to mill down slightly lower in the recoil spring channel than is indicated with the kit. The issue is if you don't the recoil spring brinds on the frame and causes this. MY build did the exact same thing, and another member told me this fix and it works 100% now.

Any chance you could post a pic of yours?  I have the channel pretty well cleared out.  it would be great to see one that works correctly.  Thanks

Here are some pictures of my locking block. The first one I had problems with the second is working good.

I contacted P80 and they weren't any help.  Told me to reset the locking block. Too late the holes were already drilled.  Tough luck I guess
I ended up filing the ends to take off the edge and polished them out. I works better now but still don't trust it 100%

You can see the tilt on the block and the minimal contact points with the slide



Here is the second build. You can see it is perfectly level with the rear rails

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Thanks, I'll take look at mine when i get a chance.  I'm pretty sure that mine looks very close tot hat.  I knew to take out a good bit because of reddit posts about the spring getting hung up if you didn't.

Are you using SF parts or just regular g20/21 parts.

I built my p45 from my gen 3 SF pistol...P80 told me that some of the standard g20/21 frames are not the same as SF models.

The frame parts were an OEM kit specifically marked for a pf45.  I don't know how to tell the difference.

Eta I went back and found the listing.  They are SF frame parts.

So it looks like I have this licked now.  I took the suggestions of opening the recoil spring channel and polishing the rails more.  I ran it again today with the stock Glock mags and it ran 100%.  I did lube it enough to make a porn star blush but it did run 100%.  So what the issue was exactly I couldn't tell for sure, I just shotgunned it.

I also started playing around with recoil springs.  I stopped by Wolff yesterday and picked up a guide rod, stock 17#, 20#and 22# springs.  It ran fine with all 3.  When I have more time and ammo i'll play with them and see if any tuning does make any difference in anything.  Thanks for the helps everyone.

Nice! Always glad to see a happy ending.

Thanks, glad I got it straightened out.