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Posted: 4/10/2024 7:48:58 AM EDT
So since I have start carrying and training with Glocks again, I decided to look into different trigger setups.  Not because I can't shoot a standard Glock trigger, but because with my time carrying 320's one of the main things I enjoy about the platform is their trigger system.  Some will say it's crappy and spongy and so on, but I found with a simple chage to othe OEM skeletonized legion flat trigger and the AC increased weight trigger return spring, I became very fond of their characteristics.



Since I start carrying my Glocks again, I found I missed the 320's trigger more than I thought I would.  The original Glock performance trigger, while an improvement, still had some issues, catching trigger tabs, and the rolling break, not really a discernible wall.  Swapping to the standard connector made it better at least.  Then there was the overly fat, front to back semi flat trigger shoe.   It increased the reach over the curved trigger at least for me.



The version 2 that was released was improved over the original in that the trigger safety tab catching issue was resolved and they are using the standard connector now.   But it still had the fat shoe.  I decided to work with it a bit and came up with a solution based on a mod that many have been doing for years.  I added a small set screw in the trigger to remove some of the take up, giving me a better reach.  No before everyone starts going ape shit over bypassing safeties and so on, I am well aware of all the safies in the Glocks, and will never mod or do anything that would even remotely bypass one of them.  At least not while using factory parts.  I removed enough take up that the tab on the trigger bar was just in front of the striker block safety, and was still on the drop shelf on the connector housing.  With this setup, I was pretty happy with the results.  I wondered though, this was pretty good, but how good could I actually get a trigger on a Glock.  I have a RP trigger shoe on it's way to swap out with the fat glock shoe to see how much better it would be.



In the meantime, a care package I had ordered arrived.  In it was the most current production version of the Timney Alpha Gen 5 trigger, all black, I hate the red, sorry to those who like it.  Anyway, I was well aware of the lightness of the factory configured Alpha, but I wanted to see if I could tune it for a reasonable carry weight.  4.5 to 4.7 is ideal IMO, at least for someone who is familiar and comfortable with a particular platform.



Installation took all of 5 minutes and there were zero hiccups.  The one change I made, I added a factory Glock + connector, and used the red timney return spring.  I also have some Johnny Glock extra power return springs in route as well, cause I knew I might need them, more on that in a bit.  So everything was installed,  and using an armorers plate, I checked the striker clearance on the trigger bar.  There is no clearance issues at all.  There was at least 10-20 thousandths clearance between the trigger bar and striker.  Won't be any light strikes with this one.



The take up was adjusted from the factory to the exact specifications I had set my GPT shoe for.  The trigger bar tab is just at the front of the striker safety block, and doesn't begin it's movement until the trigger starts moving rearward.  The trigger bar is also still on the drop safety shelf as well.  So one thing to note, the difference between the Timeny and GPT design is the GPT does have a hook that keeps the sear from dropping unless the trigger bar moves rearward.  The Timney doesn't have this feature.  With that, almost every other striker pistol out there has a fire control system exactly like the timney, VP9, M&P XD, P320, P365 almost all of them.  While the hook is an added safety measure, for me it isn't a deal breaker.



If anyone is wondering, Johnny Glock, who has forgotten more about Glock triggers than I'll ever know has designed his own full trigger setup, the 4311.  It's for the 43/43x series pistols, but look at the design, it's almost exactly like the Timney, except he has addressed the Timney's weaknesses.  His setup also does not have a hook on the sear, so He didn't seem to think it needed one either.



So what do I have all said an done? I have a Glock with a P320 trigger, and that is exactly what I was after.  I'll still test out the RP trigger shoe on the GPT, but it's going to be a close race between these two..  With the OEM + connector, I get a consistent 4.76 trigger pull each and every time.  The take up is perfect, not to short and not overly long. Trigger reach is excellent.  The wall is very distinct, and solid, easily staged with no chance of blowing past it.  Far more wall than the original GPT, and better than the GPT with the standard connector IMO.  Reset is clean and tactile, better than any of my 320's, and close to the GPT.  The GPT and factory Glock trigger for that matter still have a slightly stronger reset but not by a lot.  I suspect the Johnny Glock extra weight return spring will even them up.



I figured the timney was going to be a bust and I was going to be sending it back due to issues and failures.  Not so, at least for me.  I've put a few rounds downrange with this setup, and I am extremely happy with it's performance.  I will say this, just like the GPT you will have to pay more attention to it as far as cleaning and preventative maintenance.  For me that isn't a big deal considering the performance gain I'm getting from the system.  If I had to go somewhere with my Glock where I couldn't easily clean it or maintain it, I would just throw a factory setup back in and go on with it.



I still haven't done any long range sessions with this setup to see how it holds up, but thats coming.  I'm teaching a three day course to some officers next month 600 rounds in one day, so we will see how it does.  For now, I have about 100 rounds through it, and I won't clean it until I notice a problem, or degradation in performance.  Anyway for now I'm going to have to reside in the camp that the timney triggers, at least the current production versions seem to be a winner.



TXPO
Link Posted: 4/10/2024 11:15:06 AM EDT
[#1]
Next time, try to put a few more details in your post.
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J/K ----- good write up!
Link Posted: 4/10/2024 4:06:50 PM EDT
[#2]
What mag baseplate is that ?
Link Posted: 4/10/2024 7:40:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Peacekeeper3073:
What mag baseplate is that ?
View Quote



10-8 Performance.  Been using them for years on all my Glock magazines.



TXPO




Link Posted: 4/10/2024 8:16:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Peacekeeper3073] [#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Texaspo:



10-8 Performance.  Been using them for years on all my Glock magazines.



TXPO




View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Texaspo:
Originally Posted By Peacekeeper3073:
What mag baseplate is that ?



10-8 Performance.  Been using them for years on all my Glock magazines.



TXPO






Thanks
Link Posted: 4/10/2024 9:58:00 PM EDT
[#5]
I prefer the timney trigger with the JG trigger shoe.
Good positive reset.

This is on a gen 3
Link Posted: 4/11/2024 11:12:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Silly question but how does a person tell whether their trigger bar is or is not located at the right location relative to the firing pin block so as to be drop safe?

All this talk of aftermarket triggers and it seems like the drop safe question is raised a lot.
Link Posted: 4/13/2024 9:20:59 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By HighPlains1911:
Silly question but how does a person tell whether their trigger bar is or is not located at the right location relative to the firing pin block so as to be drop safe?

All this talk of aftermarket triggers and it seems like the drop safe question is raised a lot.
View Quote


Compare it to a stock, unaltered Glock.

What you're looking for is, the left (port) side extension of the rear of the Trigger Bar being at the front end of the drop safety slot in the raised part of the Trigger Housing, where it won't allow the bar to lower, until it's traveled to the rear of the slot, the wider part.
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