Quote History Quoted:
I'm a dyed-in-the-wool S&W guy, but...
Out of pure curiosity, I picked up an all-steel Taurus 85 over the holidays for $240 out-the-door. Much more comfortable to shoot than an Airweight J-frame. Much more "shootable" to me in that I shoot it much better than I ever shot an Airweight, presumably on account of the added weight lending itself to more hand comfort throughout the session. I put 200 rounds of +P 158gr LSWC reloads through it in one range session, and am looking forward to shooting it some more. I did not have any failures, but I did wipe down the face of the cylinder after the first 100 rounds. I think a lot of the issues that people have with binding cylinders on these guns may be due to carbon and lead buildup, powder and carbon under the extractor star, or both. Keeping those areas clean, mine ran like a champ.
Overall, I am somewhat impressed, considering that I carry pocket knives that cost more than this thing. She's an ugly matte blue and the cylinder ratchet looks like it was filed into shape rather than machined, but it's an accurate little gun that isn't punishing to shoot. All it has to do now is not fall apart, and it's not giving me any indication that it wants to.
View Quote
This thinking is why I just bought a Taurus 85 UL. That and I got it for $100 less than a Smith (and I do like my S&W 4566.) The point is that Taurus hasn't cut costs by removing the underlug to house the extractor pin, and you do get a lifetime weapon guarantee, regardless of owner.
What do I read about them?: First, CLEAN IT. Too many roadtesters and owners have stated that if they hose it out, including under the sideplate, it's a remarkably closer feel to a S&W out of the box. That advice is no different than what we tell new AR owners or new auto pistol owners, but for some reason, revolver buyers seem to think their guns were assembled in a clean room and can't possibly have machining swarf or heavy grease in them. Well, the others do, why would a revolver be different?
Second, wipe the face of the cylinder in long strings of shooting. They CAN get too much fouling in between the cylinder and forcing cone of the barrel - that is specifically a revolver thing that no auto pistol suffers from. One the other hand, it won't crack at the ejection port like an Austrian auto pistol after 100,000 rounds either.
NO gun is perfect.
From there, use crimped ammo, not reloads with lightly fitted bullets and +P powder loads that cause so much recoil it literally jerks the bullet out of the case mouth and jams them into the barrel while rotating.
Revolvers can be highly reliable, but if you don't do your part, then expect poor maintenance and bad ammo to fall into play. And, by the way, when recently looking up "revolver cylinders locking up" I found on one search engine that other makes came up often. Cylinder lockup is not the purvey of just one brand, and revolvers require more maintenance in use - they are not self loaders and their owners in the day never subjected them to 500 rounds a session. It was simply never considered.
Don't forget that all those Detective Specials were carried and cleaned much more often that shot on a daily basis. They were reliable because their owners understood maintenance was important. They were never intended to be low crawled thru mud, carried in frozen holsters, or even to require one and only one issued cartridge load manufactured under strict specifications. Military use moved to other designs pretty fast - but the personal handgun carried under a coat would tolerate the revolver design and work well. That is their correct application and they still serve in that role since they were invented.
Taurus makes a good inexpensive revolver, too often it's the owner who doesn't understand his part.