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Posted: 2/8/2024 8:55:44 PM EDT
I'm not a gunsmith and don't pretend do be one. My hands have gotten more shaky as I age (especially after the stroke), so should I attempt it or send it to a pro?
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"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet |
[Last Edit: TheQuadfather]
[#1]
That trigger pin is a mfer, sometimes requires a press.
Use phosphated mags and the trigger pull will be just as smooth as with it removed and the reset is better. If you do get it out you need a Wolff standard power two coil trigger return spring. |
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[Last Edit: VASCAR2]
[#2]
I bought a Girsan MC P35 in August and removed the magazine safety. I watched a video and did mine. I decided to remove the trigger which required drifting out the trigger pin. The magazine safety is a plunger attached to the rear of the trigger. You drift out a very small pin to remove the magazine safety. Re-install the trigger and drift the trigger pin back into the frame. I suggest you watch a video before attempting the removal. I believe the Grisan MC P35 is a copy of a Mark III FN High Power. I read some earlier versions of the High Power didn’t require removing the trigger.
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[#3]
Removal requires less time to do than to tell about it. No replacement springs or jimcracks needed, much less designer magazines.
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[#4]
Originally Posted By TheQuadfather: That trigger pin is a mfer, sometimes requires a press. Use phosphated mags and the trigger pull will be just as smooth as with it removed and the reset is better. If you do get it out you need a Wolff standard power two coil trigger return spring. View Quote Yea this, in theory it’s very easy. Maybe so with the newer clones, but on my 90s FN the trigger pin was really in there. Took a really big hammer, I was scared of denting the frame and almost gave up to be honest. |
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[#5]
Be aware the trigger pin is directional. Needs to come out right to left (hammer on the right side of the gun).
The manual says, "Remove the Trigger Pin from right to left with a 3/32" punch. Place pressure on the Trigger and Magazine Safety with the index finger and thumb and remove the Trigger Lever from out of the top of the Frame. Remove the Trigger Assembly from out of the Trigger Guard by depressing the Magazine Safety as shown in Figure #11. NOTE: Further disassembly of the Trigger Assembly should not be required except for refinishing." |
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http://www.guntechtips.com
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[#6]
Simple, knock out the teeny pin, work out the safety, done.
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[#7]
Don't be surprised if the trigger improvement is less than you thought it would be. The biggest improvement is the mags drop free. The trigger itself may get better, it may not. It won't be anything magical, it's still a Hi Power trigger with all the limitations of the design.
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[#8]
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[#9]
Did mine a few years ago. Watched a video, took my time and it was not bad. My trigger is much better but as always ymmv.
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[#10]
Originally Posted By Ameshawki: Don't be surprised if the trigger improvement is less than you thought it would be. The biggest improvement is the mags drop free. The trigger itself may get better, it may not. It won't be anything magical, it's still a Hi Power trigger with all the limitations of the design. View Quote My bedside gun is a S&W Sigma, so trigger improvements are not my goal here. I just don't want to have to drag the mag out. |
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"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet |
[#11]
You gotta drive the trigger axis pin out.
The one on my Belgian Browning took GREAT VIOLENCE to dislodge. A brass punch just deformed and shattered. I finally got it out with a STEEL punch and a 4-pound hammer. And I scratched the frame. The frame already had lots of scratches. Now it has one more. If you are worried about scratching the frame, figure out a way (maybe some sort of jig) to contain the punch so it cannot slip. |
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775 |
[#12]
Mine took a press to remove. Not joking. No regular punch could get that pin out.
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[#13]
Originally Posted By kc-coyote: Mine took a press to remove. Not joking. No regular punch could get that pin out. View Quote The browning/FN ones are pressed into place and sometimes staked in place. Your best bet if you don't have a press is to use a vise with a steel pin and a nut on the other side, that's what I did and it came right out. |
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[#14]
So easy that I removed mine.
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[#15]
I tried it on an older one where you only need to remove the pin the from the slide and the disconnect pops right out. I was very close to giving up, I was hitting that pin so hard I was legitimately afraid I was going to crack the slide. But it eventually gave.
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[#16]
I tried to remove the pin on my 90s-era Mk3 and that bastard wasn’t moving for anything. Scratched the frame a little and broke the punch. Fortunately it is a surplus gun with a little bit of love already.
The wildly inconsistent force required to drive these out is crazy. I just learned to live with it and when the SA-35 came out, got one to live the disconnect-free experience. Honestly it doesn’t hurt the trigger that much, keep things lubed and clean and it should wear in nicely. |
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[#17]
I watched a video and did both of my HiPowers, a 1986 Belgian 9mm and a 1995 .40S&W Practical, a while ago. I didn't know this at the time, but the method for removing the disconnect varies slightly, depending on what version you have. Regardless, they came out easy. I think most people have a hard time with the pin because there's a trick to removing them. When you do it the right way, there is no need to beat the pin out, it just pushes out. The trigger difference is amazing with the 9mm benefitting more, IMO.
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[#18]
Bought a Browning HP right before they discontinued. Couple years ago I watched a bunch of vids and removed the mag safety. It wasn’t a huge effort though did require a steel punch and firm (but not crazy) whack from a hammer. I did replace the trigger reset spring as recommended after feeling how spongy it was. Between the 2 changes I dropped trigger pull about 1-1&1/2 lbs. considering the original pull was around 10lbs, it was worth doing. I later replaced all the springs and trigger is now around 7-8 lbs. but it feels and shoots like a much lighter trigger.
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