I was shooting suppressed with my own reloaded 147 9mm loads done up on a Dillon 550C.

First fifteen rounds went fine, changed mags and first round was fine, ejected fine, second round did not seat completely in chamber, slide would not move.

I was able to remove slide and find round protruding from rear of chamber enough that I cannot drop barrel enough to remove it, round cannot be pushed forward either, although I have not put much force into trying.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

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I have had this happen with 9mm reloads and the match chamber on my XDm. This is how someone told me to solve it.

Back to range.
Reinstall slide
Point in safe direction
Grip slide tightly, over the top of the ejection port, thumb pointing backward
Ram shooting hand firmly into the back of the grip (you are trying to force the frame forward)
After about 2 forceful hits, the round was pulled loose and dropped out the bottom of the gun.


The cause is a bulge at the bottom of the case that is getting hung up.
Due to the taper in a 9mm case, unless you are roll sizing them you can never really get rid of the bulge, just sort of keep it at bay.
The way to keep it from happening is to plunk test your rounds after loading to ensure they all chamber properly in your gun.

For your consideration:

Video 1

Video 2

Thanks guys, I knew someone here would know.

The brass I used was from. G17 and G43, I have a Lone Wolf threaded barrel on the 19 for the suppressor.

The videos explained it.

Redding makes a push through sizing die specifically for that problem. I have never used one, but it seems like a good idea and they make really good stuff.

Edit: Unfortunately, they only list it for .40.

https://outdoors.natchezss.com/bestsellers/9mm-Carbide-Sizing-Die

Pop the back slide cover off and get everything out of the slide and you can tap the barrel out.

I have seen this happen a lot and theadvice about holding the slide and hitting the backstrap works every time. Going forward, get yourself a chamber gage and 100% check all your reloads (rejecting all failures of course). If you do this religiously, you will never have this problem again.

If it happens again, you use the Henk Gorilla Grip (tm) to clear the obstruction (the tool was version of banging on the back strap):

1. Pointing the muzzle forward in a safe direction, grasp the grip with your firing hand, and place your support hand palm on top of the slide just on the frontside of the sights so that the first pad of all four fingers are in contact with one side of the slide and the meaty portion of your thumb is in contact with the other

2. Gorilla grip squeeze as hard as you possibly can

3. Holding the slide in place with your support hand, so that your support elbow is cocked at a 90 degree angle, hold firm while you punch the gun forward as hard as you possibly can with your firing hand only.

It will come loose.

If that doesn’t work, brace the rear sight on a wooden surface and do it again (drop the magazine this time tho bc the ejection port is going to be covered). If you have plastic sights on your gun, you will have to replace them.

I had an hourglass shaped round seize up my PPQ. I had to take a punch and mallet to the muzzle end of the slide to free it. Wasn’t happening by hand. With the slide off, I dunno. Make sure you’re being really safe, considering it’s a live round.

How did you manage to get the slide off?

Trigger was disengaged so usual slide removal technique worked.

Holding slide while pushing on blackstrap ejected round.

I use a Dillon case gauge.

It seems this case was just slightly too long.

I need to resize then check OAL...

You should really use a case chamber checker.  As your loading use it ensure specs.

I use a Dillon case gauge.

The issue is the case length, not Glock bulge.

The videos QrtMOA posted explained it