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Originally Posted By Trooper0007:
http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh512/ry_da1/IMG_1284_zpsqstxuzlr.jpg 17 to 19 chop, undercut, lower finger lug removal, and stipple. My first time doing any grip mods. I hope you don't like magwells. |
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Originally Posted By Trooper0007:
http://i1249.photobucket.com/albums/hh512/ry_da1/IMG_1284_zpsqstxuzlr.jpg 17 to 19 chop, undercut, lower finger lug removal, and stipple. My first time doing any grip mods. Looks good, very nice work... |
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Attempted to stipple for the first time this week. Wanted to match my factory Zev pistol's texture and pattern
Attached File |
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That was the first frame I tried and overall I've been happy, in the past week I've done 4 of my frames. And here's the one from last night, which included a double undercut that is my first time attempting.
Attached File Double undercut, "Zev" style checker stipple, and memory pad stipple |
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
Attempted to stipple for the first time this week. Wanted to match my factory Zev pistol's texture and pattern https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/159941/IMG-0609-132738.JPG Looks great, even better than the ZEV version, IMHO! Can you tell us what tools and tip you used to get that pattern? |
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
I used a dremel and 20 lpi checkered bit. Brother checkered a screw head. It worked great! Someone should start professionally made checkered bits... 
ETA: Link to OTDefense tips mentioned in the post above. http://shop.otdefense.com/t/stippling |
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Originally Posted By Yojimbo:
It worked great! Someone should start professionally made checkered bits... The guy posted right after your previous post. OTDefense makes checkered bits. I'm getting a bigger one made so I can cover more area in and use a smaller one for the edges. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
The guy posted right after your previous post. OTDefense makes checkered bits. I'm getting a bigger one made so I can cover more area in and use a smaller one for the edges. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/159941/IMG-0605-133069.JPG I like the size of yours. I also think a square one would be good to minimize the overlapping. I need to get a Glock lower receiver and try this... 
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Originally Posted By Yojimbo:
I like the size of yours. I also think a square one would be good to minimize the overlapping. I need to get a Glock lower receiver and try this... That's the one my brother is making for me. The larger one I requested to make the center section go quicker. If I'm sanding down and stippling the frame in 45 minutes now, that might be able to drop me down to ~30 minutes. |
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
That's the one my brother is making for me. The larger one I requested to make the center section go quicker. If I'm sanding down and stippling the frame in 45 minutes now, that might be able to drop me down to ~30 minutes. Looks good, Noob!
Glad you went through with it! It makes things a lot mo betta!
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
That's the one my brother is making for me. The larger one I requested to make the center section go quicker. If I'm sanding down and stippling the frame in 45 minutes now, that might be able to drop me down to ~30 minutes. Damn can he make one for me. I'll pay. Seriously. I have quite a few of the OTD tips but one that size would be awesome. PM me if he can. 
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Yeah, if someone would make a good sized square brass waffle tip, that'd be sweet! Less than $15 too of course.
There are some neat tips designs in this kit too: wood burner bit kit A gun could look cool with a bunch of the iron cross designs or the top left one |
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Got the magwell in to complete the frame.
Here's my pair of trilobyte 17's. Attached File Ones set up for suppressed range fun and other it set up if I ever wanna carry it owb. |
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Originally Posted By WyattEarp:
Just got it done!
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/66889/IMG-0356-145454.jpg |
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Originally Posted By dwcopple:
did you mean to stipple all the way up the beavertail or just get carried away? Ouch! I wonder about that. None of the factory guns put texture at the web on your hand. And some people stipple there. I would imagine it's not comfortable or would tear some skin after a while since that skin is thinner. |
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Originally Posted By dwcopple:
did you mean to stipple all the way up the beavertail or just get carried away? Ouch! Lol. No I asked for it. I like it that way. Used it on another pistol awhile back. It's not that aggressive, so it doesn't feel rough. |
“Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.”
"I like my coffee black and my tea in the harbor."
"I like my coffee black and my tea in the harbor."
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Originally Posted By Gdirty5:
I wonder about that. None of the factory guns put texture at the web on your hand. And some people stipple there. I would imagine it's not comfortable or would tear some skin after a while since that skin is thinner. Concur. A smooth finish backstrap/beavertail is sore enough after enough rounds. I suppose if you don't have any extended range sessions or wear gloves it doesn't matter. I personally don't see the benefit in additional friction in that area. Likewise on triggerguard undercuts. |
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Originally Posted By DAVE_M:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3743/32065407814_d259e1e48a_c.jpg looks good! now send it off to primary machine and let them do some work to it. |
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Originally Posted By DAVE_M:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2275/32091212423_e416133cb8_z.jpg Very clean especially for a "dot" texture. |
fla556guy: "When you have a shit-hole the answer is to flush it as fast as possible, not bathe in the shit."
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Originally Posted By ArkansasScout3187:
Here is a G19 g4 that I did for a buddy.http://i.imgur.com/BRNYr1v.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/DD5Cyge.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/kNPnvni.jpg Next time you do a waffle texture, burn your borders in with a needle tip first. Then work the waffle tip up to it. You'll get really clean lines. Attached File |
fla556guy: "When you have a shit-hole the answer is to flush it as fast as possible, not bathe in the shit."
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Finished this one up tonight. I think it's my favorite by far. Attached File |
fla556guy: "When you have a shit-hole the answer is to flush it as fast as possible, not bathe in the shit."
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Originally Posted By ARJJ:
Finished this one up tonight. I think it's my favorite by far. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/106828/IMG-4601-154357.JPG Looks really nice. If you don't mind, how are you doing those borders and what type of tip are you using? |
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Attached File Did another one last night. Went thinner on the trigger guard than my previous frame I did |
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Originally Posted By Marksman14:
Looks really nice. If you don't mind, how are you doing those borders and what type of tip are you using? Originally Posted By Marksman14:
Originally Posted By ARJJ:
Finished this one up tonight. I think it's my favorite by far. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/106828/IMG-4601-154357.JPG Looks really nice. If you don't mind, how are you doing those borders and what type of tip are you using? Dremel with the medium ball cutter tip (#106 I think). I use a sharpie to mark my lines and then lightly work close to the line at a low angle. Once I get a "trough" going I use more pressure and change angles until it looks right. This is not my first time cutting borders, either. Total time to do this frame was about 12-13 hours. I've also cut a hard border with a reverse cone tip (#108/110). It produces a different look and is much easier quite frankly. It also helps make the stippling flush with the surrounding frame. Here's a 42 with the hard border:Attached File |
fla556guy: "When you have a shit-hole the answer is to flush it as fast as possible, not bathe in the shit."
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Originally Posted By ARJJ:
Dremel with the medium ball cutter tip (#106 I think). I use a sharpie to mark my lines and then lightly work close to the line at a low angle. Once I get a "trough" going I use more pressure and change angles until it looks right. This is not my first time cutting borders, either. Total time to do this frame was about 12-13 hours. I've also cut a hard border with a reverse cone tip (#108/110). It produces a different look and is much easier quite frankly. It also helps make the stippling flush with the surrounding frame. Here's a 42 with the hard border:https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/106828/IMG-4362-154503.JPG Originally Posted By ARJJ:
Originally Posted By Marksman14:
Originally Posted By ARJJ:
Finished this one up tonight. I think it's my favorite by far. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/106828/IMG-4601-154357.JPG Looks really nice. If you don't mind, how are you doing those borders and what type of tip are you using? Dremel with the medium ball cutter tip (#106 I think). I use a sharpie to mark my lines and then lightly work close to the line at a low angle. Once I get a "trough" going I use more pressure and change angles until it looks right. This is not my first time cutting borders, either. Total time to do this frame was about 12-13 hours. I've also cut a hard border with a reverse cone tip (#108/110). It produces a different look and is much easier quite frankly. It also helps make the stippling flush with the surrounding frame. Here's a 42 with the hard border:https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/106828/IMG-4362-154503.JPG Not surprised it took so long, it they look great. Would you mind sharing the tips you use? I'm looking to try something different. I've been doing *individual* sharp point stippling, and I need to switch it up. Both of your textures look very nice and sure seem that they would give the feel I like. |
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Originally Posted By Marksman14:
Not surprised it took so long, it they look great. Would you mind sharing the tips you use? I'm looking to try something different. I've been doing *individual* sharp point stippling, and I need to switch it up. Both of your textures look very nice and sure seem that they would give the feel I like. Man I'm just an amateur (for right now anyway), but I could write a book on what I've learned. My best advice is to take an old Glock box and the tips in your kit and try them at multiple angles and use "tip dragging", which basically means scribbling or doing figure eights and the like on your material. When using a Dremel, make note of which direction/side it produces the flash on, and always try to work so that the flash produced is on the unfinished side of your work. |
fla556guy: "When you have a shit-hole the answer is to flush it as fast as possible, not bathe in the shit."
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Originally Posted By dwcopple:
did you mean to stipple all the way up the beavertail or just get carried away? Ouch! I was worried mine would be uncomfortable stippled all the way up the beavertail, but it doesn't bother me at all. I have sissy office worker hands too, so it's not because I'm so tough and rugged.
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