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DUDE you scored big time , a wooden mag plate with matching numbers !
It looks all legit to me , I own one , but would not consider myself an expert . Good Job . As far as ammo any 9mm FMJ should work the Germans loaded them hot . It even has the straw color left . |
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"I've seen too much not to stay in touch , With a world full of love and luck, I got a big suspicion 'bout ammunition I never forget to duck" JB ????
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Originally Posted By Rocklock: DUDE you scored big time , a wooden mag plate with matching numbers ! It looks all legit to me , I own one , but would not consider myself an expert . Good Job . As far as ammo any 9mm FMJ should work the Germans loaded them hot . It even has the straw color left . View Quote Ok that makes me feel better about the purchase. I bought a c96 in the same type circumstance and it was a total hodgepodge or wrong parts. What do you mean about straw color? |
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As far as ammo goes, use 115 grain bullets. Given the age, lighter loads are better and 115 was the common bullet used. A picture of the bottom of the barrel with the serial number would be helpful. The question is whether or not there is a halo around the numbers. If the barrel was blued then the number stamped there will the a light "halo" around each number. If there is and the numbers match, the barrel is probably original. As far a shooting it goes, make a careful inspection of pieces and if all are ok, it is likely ok to shoot. If you determine the Luger is all original, you risk reducing the value if in shooting it a part should break and and have to be replaced. Then the Luger is mismatched and less valuable.
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I paid 2 years ago 1400 something for a similar condition and matching mag from Simpson Ltd. Mine is a 1917 1920 double date. My grips dont match though, unnumbered.
I would say go and buy a MecGar aftermarket mag right now, they are about $30ish. Mine fires 100% with the aftermarket mag and crap with the original one. The original one definitely has lost spring tension when comparing the 2 and probably that's why it jams with it. The aftermarket mag also locks in better, so I only use it and leave the original for looking at only. I just fire regular brass case ball ammo. That's what thenguybat Simpson Ltd said. |
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send it to thor!
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Originally Posted By Jerret_S: I paid 2 years ago 1400 something for a similar condition and matching mag from Simpson Ltd. Mine is a 1917 1920 double date. My grips dont match though, unnumbered. I would say go and buy a MecGar aftermarket mag right now, they are about $30ish. Mine fires 100% with the aftermarket mag and crap with the original one. The original one definitely has lost spring tension when comparing the 2 and probably that's why it jams with it. The aftermarket mag also locks in better, so I only use it and leave the original for looking at only. I just fire regular brass case ball ammo. That's what thenguybat Simpson Ltd said. View Quote Thanks, I’ll get a mecgar mag |
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Also curious if anyone knows what the proof marks mean? I can’t find one with just 1920 stamped on it and the same proof marks. Was this a military or commercial made piece?
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In your first pic you can see the ejector on the right side behind the trigger . It has the " straw " color , the trigger should be the same color , but it wore off over time .
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"I've seen too much not to stay in touch , With a world full of love and luck, I got a big suspicion 'bout ammunition I never forget to duck" JB ????
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Originally Posted By P08: Looks like you have a typical Weimar new production P08. The WaA2 dove proof are a dead giveaway. If it were me I'd leave it alone, it's not nasty enough to have it restored and frankly at this point not collectable enough at this time to make it worth the monetary investment. If you shoot it the P08 was designed to shoot the 124gr bullets. However you won't find much of a difference between them and the 115gr bullets. Oh and the gunsmith was wrong on the barrel, it is correct. If you hand load you can try to fire lap the bore, it may clean it up a bit? My 1921 Weimar Army Luger https://i.imgur.com/0lWlbxs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0GH5zWP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AzBC20F.jpg View Quote Awesome, thanks for the information about the proof marks |
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Full serial number on the grips is not normal and was probably done after it left the factory. The only parts that get full serial numbers are the frame, upper and barrel. All other parts have just the last 2 digits.
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We live in a society where homosexuals lecture us on morals, transvestites lecture us on human biology, baby killers lecture us on human rights and socialists lecture us on economics.
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Originally Posted By P08: Full serial number on the grips is not normal and was probably done after it left the factory. The only parts that get full serial numbers are the frame, upper and barrel. All other parts have just the last 2 digits. View Quote So then it would be matching grip panels? |
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Originally Posted By Tonyt915: So then it would be matching grip panels? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Tonyt915: Originally Posted By P08: Full serial number on the grips is not normal and was probably done after it left the factory. The only parts that get full serial numbers are the frame, upper and barrel. All other parts have just the last 2 digits. So then it would be matching grip panels? From everything I've learned over the past 30 years yes. |
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We live in a society where homosexuals lecture us on morals, transvestites lecture us on human biology, baby killers lecture us on human rights and socialists lecture us on economics.
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We live in a society where homosexuals lecture us on morals, transvestites lecture us on human biology, baby killers lecture us on human rights and socialists lecture us on economics.
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