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Posted: 9/19/2018 6:06:09 PM EDT
I've seen sketchy spottings of people who have done this conversion, but it's rarely people saying the same things.

Seen people say you need the trigger obviously, but also people saying the trigger bar, the hammer, and the sear. Most people I've found seem to say trigger and trigger bar only. Not sure.

There is also "it needs to be modified"... seriously people, when you post things, assume people will read them 10 years later and you should be more clear with what you mean.

Has anyone here done it?
Link Posted: 9/19/2018 9:26:33 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm probably the only person here who even owns a Beretta 89

Nope, sorry, never did that, I don't own an '87

I'd assume rimfire central would be pretty authoritative, or is that where you read the conflicting / undetailed info ?
Link Posted: 9/19/2018 10:11:58 PM EDT
[#2]
I think there's a guy over on Rimfirecentral named BennetD89  or something with Bennet in the name.  You should try and contact him as I believe he has done this.  I recall it was a minor nightmare though
Link Posted: 9/19/2018 10:34:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Yea SigTalk and RimfireCentral and other places all conflicting. Need to talk to someone that’s actually done it. Better chance of finding a person where there are people.

Just not sure if I’d get any use from the 89 sear and hammer, need to know before I order.
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 1:41:07 PM EDT
[#4]
Berettaforum.net would be the place to ask IMO
Link Posted: 9/20/2018 4:44:03 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
Berettaforum.net would be the place to ask IMO
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Yea, you might think. But you'd be wrong. One of the worst sources of info for the 87. Great for the 92 though.
Link Posted: 10/1/2018 7:01:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Did it. I didn't take pictures because there is really no point. It's not easy, but if you have the right tools it's a lot easier than the old internet posts made it out to be.


  1. It's MUCH BETTER. If you have a Beretta 87, I can't recommend this enough.


  2. I did not buy the 89 Hammer and Sear. The parts I bought were an 89 trigger, 89 trigger bar, 84 trigger bar spring (suspect this is the same as the 89, but had trouble finding the 89 part, it fits perfectly, you could bend the old one to work, but I wouldn't). I also purchased but haven't used the 89 trigger spring, I've read it's lighter. I used a new 87 trigger spring for now.


  3. You'll need to remove the 'trigger reset lever', It's a little wing part under the right side safety. It's pointless and possibly only there for import-points. You COULD modify the 89's trigger part with a mill (copy mill would be best) but its a small part and the TRL does noting. Just take it off.


  4. The 89 trigger is too thick to fit up into the hole from the trigger guard. You'll need to remove material. Norton India medium stone to take material away, Arkansas stone to polish. Be sure you are grinding parallel to the surface, don't add an angle! Use mineral oil (unsented baby oil)


  5. It was NOT easy to remove the right side safety for me. I needed another hand or a better quality punch. It's a very small roll pin, had to use a 0.9mm punch, broke it, cut it back and it worked when shorter/stiffer. It's the same part as the 92FS safety wing pin. It will stick out a bit on the bottom side. This only needs to come off to remove the trigger reset lever (which by the way, the ONLY thing it does, is allows you to pull the trigger with the safety on, it's almost entirely pointless.


  6. Getting the 87 trigger spring in is not immediately apparent and it helped to have another 87 to check. My order of operations were to make a slave pin that went inside the slimmed down trigger, I used a small dowel, it just needs to be the width of the trigger, inserted the spring so the "main" loop was held in with the slave pin. Installed in the gun. It was difficult to remove/insert the take-down button to get it's end linked up with the end of the spring. Inserted the trigger bar while pulling it's end back with a bent paperclip hook, pull it back slide the trigger bar in release the spring on to it. Pushed the slide stop in with it's spring so while it was going in the slave pin is driven out. Done. Hardly worth crying over. (Warning, when getting the slave pin installed there is a bit of pressure needed on the spring, it might go flying if you slip)


  7. The whole process took about an hour of actual work, and and hour of figuring things out, finding the right tool, finding the spring that went flying. It's ABSOLUTELY worth doing for the $40 in parts or so.

Link Posted: 10/2/2018 12:47:25 AM EDT
[#7]
Excellent followup!  Glad to see you got it figured out
Link Posted: 10/2/2018 2:01:13 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
Excellent followup!  Glad to see you got it figured out
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Thanks, but I can do a little better:

Numrich (you can see how their pricing works)
1472200 - Trigger, Factory Original    $15.75  (came with adjustment screw)
1472240 - Trigger Spring, Factory Original    $6.35    (didn't use)
1472210 - Trigger Bar, Factory Original    $15.75
1525140 - Trigger Bar Spring    $15.75  (could reshape factory)

Brownells
913100225 C54069 SPRING TRIGGER 84F/85F/87/84    $6.99  (factory 87 spring I needed anyhow)
913100492 PIN,LOCKING BLOCK SPRING,92/96    $3.99  (Safety roll pin for 87, also for 92/96, too expensive)

If I took photos that would have made it just TOO EASY for the next guy! So in 10 years when someone finds an 87 Target (or standard 87) and wants to make the trigger much better, they'll have a tiny bit of work to do still.
Link Posted: 10/2/2018 6:55:29 PM EDT
[#9]
CDNN was blowing out M89 parts a few years ago, I bought one (or more) of everything, except the barrel/slide, to keep my M89 running for years to come.  Anyway, thanks again for the improved parts list for future M87 owners.
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