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Posted: 7/1/2018 3:12:13 PM EDT
I am considering the purchase of a Kimber Custom II two-tone in 9mm. The research I've done via internet searches has Kimber looking like malfunctioning pieces of crap. I have also heard that they got rid of the problems and are making a quality 1911 now. What say the collective?
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I have had 6 kimbers, I have kept 2. Last experience was last year with a 9mm micro. Never again.
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A friend of mine got a Ultra carry of some type that was $$$. Been flawless for him, I was underwhelmed with the trigger for a 1911 at that price point though, showed him my Springfield R.O. which was a $700 pistol to his $1200ish pistol and how mine didn't have the grit and take up his did, made him less pleased with his purchase. However his carry's better as it's aluminum framed and a shorter barrel/slide so it weighs a lot less, his loaded feels like my full size steel pistol unloaded for comparison. The grit went away on his trigger after about 400 rounds or so but like I was telling him, IMO there's no excuse for a trigger like that on a modern 1911, period, none the less on a pistol at that price point.
Been impressed with some of their rifles though. |
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Quoted:
I am considering the purchase of a Kimber Custom II two-tone in 9mm. The research I've done via internet searches has Kimber looking like malfunctioning pieces of crap. I have also heard that they got rid of the problems and are making a quality 1911 now. What say the collective? View Quote I have that exact gun. I was shooting it this morning. I bought it about 6 months ago. It runs great and is very accurate. It came with 3 dot sights so I put a fiber optic front sight on it and changed the hammer spring to a 19lb spring. It's good to go. |
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Kimber might not be total crap, but they sure arent tier 1 like the way they are priced. Why go Kimber when there are so many other solid options?
Personally I would get a RIA over a Kimber and spend the difference on ammo. |
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I have a newer one. Works fine. Trigger isn't the greatest and not impressed with some of the MIM parts. But the gun works.
I've never bought a 1911 in the $800-$1,200 price range that I was 100% happy with. I always end up changing out some of the "junk parts" even if the guns works. |
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I haven't seen anything that would indicate they've made any positive changes.
I won't say don't buy a Kimber, but I will advise you to pick it up cheap. Plenty of them are languishing in the used market. |
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I've had three, two in 2006 and one in 2010.
Never had a problem with them... ... That the factory couldn't fix. |
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I don’t think new Kimbers are really any different than old Kimbers. They’re half ass decent in a 5” 45. I wouldn’t chance anything other than that.
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OP
As you have learned, there are proponents of Kimber and detractors. TBH, Kimber makes more 1911 style pistols than anybody, but I am not sure if they make more bad pistols proportionally than the other makers of production pistols. Of the 5 Springfields I have owned, 3 needed to go back to be fixed. I have owned only one Kimber, but that has been a great pistol for over 13,000 rounds. Buy what you want. No matter the opinions of anybody, it's all a crap shoot. |
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I just took the leap of faith myself OP. I've owned a bunch of 1911s over the years, from Wilson to Ruger, and just bought my first Kimber. I like the feature set and it was a decent deal. I pick it up today, let's see what happens!
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Kimber might not be total crap, but they sure arent tier 1 like the way they are priced. Why go Kimber when there are so many other solid options? Personally I would get a RIA over a Kimber and spend the difference on ammo. View Quote |
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View Quote OP. Kimber's are "ok" in 45acp in 5" slide and the Custom II model only. Everything else is overpriced fluff. If you are looking for 9mm, go SA, spend a little more money and go DW, or spend the big bucks and go Wilson. |
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I'm surprised Kimber is still in business, selling expensive finicky guns to people who usually don't know better. Granted many are beautiful guns and they ahve lots of special editioned guns that have cool features, color schemes, lasers, etc but still, lipstick on a pig if it doesnt run. DW or Colt for the money, Springfield isn't bad either but many are still peeved about their gun control support last year or whatever.
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I bought a used Kimber Custom II in 45 acp cheap a few years ago. First time shooting I could not make it through a mag without the slide locking back with rounds left. Turned out the nose of the bullets would bump the slide stop up to catch the slide prematurely. I read that this was a common issue that others have had and Kimber would send them a new slide stop. I happen to have a kimber slide stop to replace it and never had another issue. It is extremely reliable and accurate now but my first impression of the gun (and Kimber) is still with me. I think for their price they have too many issues. Their guns fit and finish are great but you shouldn't need to spend a pile of money on a gun then another pile of money on ammo to be able to prove it's reliability.
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They make a Dan Wesson 1911 in 9mm. I don’t have one but I do have a Valor in 10mm. It hurt to pay for it, but damned if it ain’t worth every penny.
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The only gun I have ever seen blow up on the range is a Kimber. I saw two of those blow up.
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I bought a Kimber Custom II 45 acp over a year ago. Its been flawless. Very happy with it.
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Picked up the new Kimber AEP yesterday afternoon. First inspection shows a nicely finished piece, with a very tight slide-to-frame fit, good beavertail fit and no obvious flaws or machining marks. The trigger feels to be about 5 lbs or so with no creep. Not as nice as my Combat Elite (with a trigger job) or the exceptional trigger that was on my DW Vbob (which had the nicest trigger I've felt on a 1911). I'll put my gauge on it when I find the damn thing - haven't seen it since the move. It's buried in a box in the gun closet I'm sure.
I field-stripped it and gave it a good look. Everything looks good inside with no rough spots obvious tool marks. The hammer and slide stop are MIM pieces as are plenty of other internal parts I'm sure. But there's a reason an all-stainless 1911 with a round butt, 26 LPI front checkering and the other features of the gun was less than $800 delivered and transferred! Anyway, first impressions of the pistol are very good. It hand-cycled snap caps and fmj with no issues. None of this means shit if it won't run, of course, so we'll see how it does when I make it to the range in the next few days. |
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I’ve been watching Kimber closely. I believe their quality is returning. I even bought a Raptor Pro recently. I’m surprised at the fit and finish.
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I have the exact gun you speak of.......... once I tensioned the extractor (it had ZERO tension from the factory), it has been 99% reliable. I was going to give it a bit more tension but decided to go with a Wilson Bulletproof extractor instead.
This has seemed to be an ongoing thing with Kimber 9mm's, but is an easy fix... I bought mine knowing about others having extraction issues and that no tension was common, and low and behold mine was exactly that way. I couldn't get through a mag without it leaving an empty in the chamber. The thing is incredibly accurate... now just to gain that 1% and make it 100% reliable. |
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I bought a tle pro 8 months ago and 3000rds through it. It functioned perfectly with wc etm mags and 230ball, 230 hst, 185+p golden sabers out of the box. I did replace slide stop and thumb safety, later, with egw forged parts because mim. I ditched the fp block, cause it's not needed, and run a 22lb spring. Did it need this stuff, no, but I feel better with those 2 forged pieces in.
First day I had it out on the range,it ran 275rd with only 2 failures to rtb in last mag. It was hot and filthy (titegroup reloads) and dry by then. A couple drops of oil on barrel and rails and it ran 32 more rds perfect. My buddy was shooting his brand new 1400 sti rangemaster, it couldn't get through a single mag without ftf or stovepipes. He was using fresh 47d, etm, and McCormick mags. I picked up a 10mm kimber camp guard, same story, shot fantastic. Replaced mim slidestop and safety with egw forged, also went to 22lb or 24lb recoil spring. I've got 2 dw, 38s guardian and 9mm valkyrie cco. They are perfect from the box and just ooze quality, moreso than the kimbers. One was 1400 and the other 1250, the Kimber tle pro was 800 and camp guard was 1020. I did have to send valkyrie back for front sight swap, it had .130 and needed a .180 to be poi/poa |
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The only Kimbers I recommend are 5", .45 and under $800.
Shorten the barrel or increase the price and it's a no-go for me. However, I was given a Series I compact (CCO form factor) and it runs well enough so far, though the rear sight was sliding back and forth in the dovetail when I got it. |
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Exactly why do people say 5" only from kimber? Once u use a good mag, proper recoil spring, and correct extractor tension it shouldn't matter. Obviously the shorter cycle distance is main difference, but why on kimber and not on other 4-4.25" brands? I have noticed, and allieved, the rather sharp transition from ramp to chamber on the 10mm. I just used a small sanding drum on dremel to barely break edge, then polished. I noticed after a couple hundred rds of 10mm it would start to be catchy clambering or have a 3 point jam. The brass would have a scratch in it that matched perfectly with lower third of chamber mouth.
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Quoted:
Exactly why do people say 5" only from kimber? Once u use a good mag, proper recoil spring, and correct extractor tension it shouldn't matter. Obviously the shorter cycle distance is main difference, but why on kimber and not on other 4-4.25" brands? I have noticed, and allieved, the rather sharp transition from ramp to chamber on the 10mm. I just used a small sanding drum on dremel to barely break edge, then polished. I noticed after a couple hundred rds of 10mm it would start to be catchy clambering or have a 3 point jam. The brass would have a scratch in it that matched perfectly with lower third of chamber mouth. View Quote |
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Exactly why do people say 5" only from kimber? Once u use a good mag, proper recoil spring, and correct extractor tension it shouldn't matter. Obviously the shorter cycle distance is main difference, but why on kimber and not on other 4-4.25" brands? I have noticed, and allieved, the rather sharp transition from ramp to chamber on the 10mm. I just used a small sanding drum on dremel to barely break edge, then polished. I noticed after a couple hundred rds of 10mm it would start to be catchy clambering or have a 3 point jam. The brass would have a scratch in it that matched perfectly with lower third of chamber mouth. View Quote |
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I have owned a Kimber Desert Warrior for several years.
I have tried nearly every magazine known to man. I cannot get it to fire more than three rounds in succession without a FTF or a stovepipe. Sent it back to Kimber twice to no avail. It would be nice to own a 1911A1 that actually worked. Perhaps I'll try a Dan Wesson... |
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I have owned a Kimber Desert Warrior for several years. I have tried nearly every magazine known to man. I cannot get it to fire more than three rounds in succession without a FTF or a stovepipe. Sent it back to Kimber twice to no avail. It would be nice to own a 1911A1 that actually worked. Perhaps I'll try a Dan Wesson... View Quote I agree though, if you are condisering Kimber buy used because I don't think they are worth a premium over other some brands under $1K, but they aren't junk either. The vast majority of issues people have with Kimbers can be easily fixed so I wouldn't run away from a good deal on one. |
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the old original series one kimbers were nice
I wouldn’t know anything with series II guts inside . |
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I have owned a Kimber Desert Warrior for several years. I have tried nearly every magazine known to man. I cannot get it to fire more than three rounds in succession without a FTF or a stovepipe. Sent it back to Kimber twice to no avail. It would be nice to own a 1911A1 that actually worked. Perhaps I'll try a Dan Wesson... View Quote I don't own a Kimber, but I've read about them for years, on this forum. I've heard things like "been back to Kimber 3 times, still doesn't function". They seem like an old auto ordnance (pre kahr) a $400 dollar gun, then they do $600 polishing and fitting the OUTSIDE of the gun and charge another $100 for a series 80 safety nobody wanted. BTW, I've bought several $400 rock islands that do work 100%. |
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I have a Custom II in .45 ACP for the better part of a decade. I haven't ever had any issues with it. I have changed parts out over time, but it was for my preferences or because of wear (i.e. recoil springs). In my opinion, the 1911 platform is finicky and any manufacturer can/does have the occasional problem. If is a platform designed for .45 ACP and a 5" barrel. Going shorter or introducing different calibers takes it outside of it's original intent. It is just that simple. That doesn't mean you should buy a 4" chambered in 9mm, but it could mean that there is more tweaking in the beginning than if you bought a G19.
In my opinion, if you could find a custom II that is used but largely stock (i.e. you don't have to worry about Bubba hacking on it at home) I would go that route. You are going to make changes to it anyway so save the money if you can and put it into parts, mags and ammo. FWIW, I run wilson recoil springs and CMC power mags (8 and 10 rounders) and mine will shoot any factory ammo and all of the reloads that I have fed it. Keep it clean and lubed, and run good springs and mags and I would be surprised if you have any serious issues. Again, my experience isn't recent, but that is my experience. |
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