Apparently Sig now pre-strips the heads for you on the screws that hold the 365XL sight plate on.  Read the directions, calls for a 5/64 Allen.  OK.  A 5/64 Allen spun right off the bat with just a small amount or torque applied. Thought they might be Torx heads.  Got the magnifying glass out, nope.  Tried a size smaller and larger, nope.  Tried mm, nope.

I don't have a Grabit that small.  Contemplating just drilling the fucking heads off.

These fuckers (pic stolen):

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It doesnt always work but usually does the trick. You can bang a size bigger torx head in the and break them free. Then replace them

Yeah, I was thinking of trying that.  Should be able to drive it into that pot metal pretty easily.

Send it back on warranty. Let them fix their fuck up.

Sig uses thread locked on those screws to keep them from backing out in a very bad place and the gun having to eat them. You can’t really blame Sig for not knowing when to stop and not being able to feel with the wrench was about the slip. That’s user error. The answer to a seized screw or bolt isn’t more torque, contrary to popular belief, because something is going to give.

You’ve gotta use heat, don’t use heat and you’ll strip them. On both of my P365XL’s and my M17’s I used a small torch to heat up the front side of the site and all but one case out without issue. One of the XL’s had a screw that didn’t want to budge even with heat and felt like it was going to strip. I took a punch that fit in the head and gave it a small whack and after that it backed right out.

You’ve got a couple options for repair. Send it back to Sig who will probably fix it for you even though they shouldn’t have to. Pay a gunsmith who knows what they’re doing to extract the screw, or attempt to extract it yourself with proper tools and methods.

If you want to do it yourself and not risk jacking up your slide you’re going to need some tools. For plan A you want to find a slightly oversized hex or torx bit that you can hammer down into the head and will be tight, then heat up the sight, cross your fingers, and pucker your ass and hope it comes out. Plan B is going to require a decent drill press that you can accurately control the depth with or a mill, a quality set of left hand drill bits, and a torch. If you heat the sight up chances are the bolt will start to back out from drilling it some and loosen it enough to still grab a little with a wrench, but if it doesn’t you just drill through the head of the bolt but not into the slide and it will remove the head and pull through. At that point you can use a vise or pliers to grab the stud and extract it.

Yeah, your fault op not sig...
sig always fucks something up then blames you

Yes.  I'm an idiot and know nothing about engineering and fasteners.

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I had to heat mine up with a soldering iron to get them out. But once I did it was no trouble

Don't have anything smaller than a T10 at home.  I'll just take it in to our machine shop on Monday.

ETA:  Got them out with the T10 bit.  Hell, they weren't even that tight and no thread locker that I could see.

No thread locker on mine either, came right out but I did heat them prior to that attempt just in case.

So maybe a thread title change is in order?

No, because the heads were still stripped out.

I do a fair number of these every month. You need a clean, straight cut wrench or bit. Many have the edges slightly relieved for better fit which will be a disaster in this application.

So I had the same issue with my Sister In-laws 365XL that she just got.  My came right off, but I couldn't get hers off and stripped it.  I called Sig last Monday and the guy didn't question me on it at all and asked for my info and emailed me a RO number with a shipping label.  I sent it to them last Monday and got it back fixed with the Romeo Zero put onto the slide today.  So as pissed as I was when it happened, they did take care of it and couldn't believe how quickly they took care of the problem.  They took care of the shipping and didn't charge us.

@Superluckycat
So what did you do? Just dig at it unti you got the T10 to fit?

I just got a 365 XL and am having the same issue. Screws came from the factory completely stripped.

I got mine out with heat and it looks like I was fortunate. A buddy brought his over, with his 507k, and we just spent two hours trying to get his out. Heat gun didn’t work and neither did a soldering iron. A cheap fastener with a shit ton of thread locker is a bad combo. Now I have to take the damn thing to another buddy’s machine shop. This kind of crap shouldn’t happen with a relatively expensive pistol that’s designed to be upgraded by the consumer.

I had the same experience earlier this week.  The deeper screw came out no problem, the other wouldn't budge(even after the soldering iron trick noted earlier) and the bit would kind of grab and then just rotate like it was stripped just a bit.

Hammered in a slightly larger bit and had it out easily(luckily!).

I didn't notice any abnormal amount of thread locker or anything.  Maybe some white substance but it didn't seem like it was globbed on, just a dot.

What a stupid design, glad I didn't have to send it in though.

3/32? I don’t know how you guys are getting 3/32 and T10 in that head.

I don’t how he got the T10 in there.

I just tried again for another hour. Finally stripped out the T8 as well. Nothing to do now, except ship it to SIG. Heat just wouldn’t work, so maybe it’s a thread locker that doesn’t break down with heat. Rocksett?

I don’t know how much SIG’s CS Reps actually know, but he said it’s some of the screws, and that I wasn’t going to get them out. If true, it could explain why some guys are getting one out, and not the other.

I ended up just shipping mine to Sig. The issue was mine was that the screws were completely stripped from the factory. As in put the proper size Allen key in and it just spun freely.





The guy I spoke with basically just said “yeah we get this a lot. Send it in and we will take care of it” he also claimed they use no thread locker.

I had a good enough bite with a T8 that if they were going to come out, with heat, they would have come out. In the end, all I could do was torque the T8 until it stripped to see if they would break free. These particular screws either had thread locker that is heat resistant or there was a thread issue with the screws or cover.

SIG only pays for Ground shipping, for slides, so from the OR coast to NH, according to tracking, it is going to take 10 days to be delivered. It’ll be a month before my buddy will get his slide back. SIG pays for 2 day air if you ship an entire pistol, so in a case in which they admit they have a wide spread screw up(pun intended ) on their hands, they should be paying for 2 day air for these slides. Brand new pistol, simple two screw upgrade, back to SIG for a month. Pretty shitty deal for the consumer.

They sent me a label for ground shipping and I sent it in last Monday the 1st. Got the notice this Tuesday the 9th that it was on it's way back.  They returned it 2nd day air and it is scheduled for delivery today.

It’s good to hear that they at least are doing 2 day shipping for the return trip. I was figuring 10 days both ways and CS told me that their turn over time was running at about a week on the slides. The initial Ground label is still BS if you’re on the west coast.