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I ordered a martin style truss rod, prs scale radiused fretboard, dots, and side inserts today :)
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I use Tusq nuts exclusively. Nothing is better.
So far, looking good! I should point out, though, that the Martin style truss rod is really intended for shorter acoustic guitar necks. If I were you I would change over to the Stew-Mac biflex truss rod, which requires only a narrow 7/16" depth straight slot for installation, and is intended for use in electric guitar necks. The Martin style rod, if installed for top adjustment on an electric guitar, requires too much wood to be removed from the nut area, which is already the thinnest and weakest point on the neck. I seriously suggest you reconsider. That's really the wrong truss rod for this application. Personally, I use the Stew-Mac traditional Gibson style single action truss rod kit. I'm used to it. But I intend to start using their bidirectional rod with my very next build. I'm ready to glue my neck in on my new build now. The frets are in and the neck angle and height has been carefully adjusted. CJ |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
cut the sides of the fretboard today and drilled holes for the dots. I'll have to take pictures tomorrow. I left the fretboard a bit proud so I'll sand it down to match
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I do the reverse. I made precisely sized fingerboard templates out of plexiglas, with the edges cut dead straight on a jointer, and then
use double sided tape to secure the fingerboard blank to the template, and use the router table and laminate trimmer bit to make the fingerboard a perfect match to the template. I adjust the neck to fit the perfectly sized and shaped fingerboard, not the other way around. I do this because I demand that the fingerboard edges have to be perfectly straight. I have the option of using the laminate trimmer bit to match up most of the neck sides to the fingerboard, too, depending on how I choose to construct the neck. |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
Very interesting thread sir. Been following this for a little while now. Thank you for taking the time to spell this out along the way. Learning quite a bit about something I had no idea about. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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TN SQUIRE
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ |
"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
Your work is nice and clean. I make a royal mess and figure it'll clean up as I get into further stages.
I really mean that. Where you lay out grid lines and contour lines and do contour cuts to those lines, I just put on my welding gloves and face shield, pick up the insane evil chainsaw disc on a grinder, and let it rip. I just cut, hack, grind, and sand until it looks and feels right, and I'm really not kidding about that. All carving and shaping work is done totally freehand. The precision stuff, the cavities, pickup routes, and neck joint are done with precision tools and careful measuring, but my working style is totally based on how it feels and looks rather than on measurements. It's all carving, essentially. Using power tools. It's going well. |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
It helps having a seat of solidworks that I can use to model things out and plan it out.
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Based on the look, that's Eastern rock maple. Really hard, tough stuff. Trying to carve it with hand tools can break your heart. Carving it with
power tools is definitely preferred but be careful to use sharp tools and not let anything get hot, as the sugars in the wood tend to burn and you end up with deep burn marks that are very time consuming to sand out. It makes awesome necks. Really great flame in rock maple is very rare but it can be incredible when you do find it. The classic late 50s Les Paul Standards mostly used flamed rock maple tops instead of the western maple that's what most really intensely figured tops are these days. The softer maples (Bigleaf and Red are most commonly used) are a lot more forgiving, softer, carve easily, don't burn as easily or as deep when you use a disc sander, and I personally don't recommend them for necks. They make a pretty neck but it's just not as rigid. |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
yeah, it's probably the same as what I used on the LP and the carve on that wasn't too bad. I'm going to set up a stop on my vertical router stand so that It's a bit easier to do the carve. Then I used a sanding disk last time with an angle grinder to get it to shape, just light grinding or else it would burn like you said.
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Food coloring? Odds are it won't be lightfast and will fade when exposed to sunlight.
I know you're trying to build this guitar at a low total cost, but man, dyes are cheap! Feibing's leather dyes are only like six bucks a bottle, and Stewart-Macdonald's dyes aren't much more than that! Use dyes that are meant for the job and won't fade out the first time the sun rises and the guitar's case is open. You'll be glad you did. CJ |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
I'm not using food coloring on the final, I just wanted to see how it took the dye.
I have a bottle of dark walnut transtint that I'll use to pop the figure and then I'm using an amber dye for the cap. The back and walnut will just be clear coated natural color. |
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Looking good so far. Go bigger on the waist carve. You'll be glad you did.
I've been toting around my latest to all the local shops and musicians, looking to raise awareness and drum up some sales prospect. It's getting rave reviews from everybody. CJ |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
it's a fairly thin body,
The back is about 1.4" thick after planing and the cap is 9/16" to make sure my action is not too high. I'll have to go with a full 4 degree neck angle on a future build to get the body thicker. This neck is closer to 3 degrees. I'm running my binding down into the walnut just a bit to maximize my carve though. I'm thinking of trying my hand at rosewood for binding. I think that would look very nice instead of just the abs binding. the belly carve will still need to be blended into the back so it will grow some, I don't want to make it too much bigger though or it will impinge on the lightening holes inside of the guitar. |
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That's not THAT thin a body. A PRS Custom 22 or 24's mahogany back is 1.1 inches (actually spec'ed as 1.125 inches nominal) and a McCarty
body's mahogany back is an additional 1/4" thicker than that, at 1 and 3/8" or 1.375 for the decimally obsessed. They have a BIG waist cut and it's very comfortable. The maple top in each case is an additional 5/8 to just over 3/4 inches thick. (0.8 inches measured.) I personally like a thick top, shooting for 3/4 inch, as I like the carve to be big and bold and the built-in angle you get is nice. Action height is not just a matter of top thickness or neck angle, but how you balance out all the factors. I like to be sure that my range of action height is enough that I can drop the height to zero, strings touching frets, by lowering the bridge to the minimum possible height on its adjuster screws, and can also achieve an action height that is uncomfortably high for anyone but a slide player. If I have that, it doesn't really matter what the top thickness is or the neck angle is relative to the centerline of the body. Height of the string path is not the same thing as action height. CJ |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
well, thinner then the last one I built anyway
I have a tendancy to throw out too many significant figures too.... the custom shops around here just "love" me for that |
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Nice work man, I really like the wood control cavity cover, I've never seen that.
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Originally posted by System Message: Please use another website for your asshole-picture swapping
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I've seen it on a few custom builds here and there, but it's not too common
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worked on the neck a bit tonight shaped the profile a bit more with some 40 grit on the orbital and routered out a channel for cables between the neck and bridge pickup, plus cut out a bit of material for clearance on the pickups.
the neck to body transition should end up being pretty smooth :) |
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wow..I am envious. I don't play, can't pound a nail straight but this thread is one of the most interesting I've read in a while.
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We have our quota of childish idiots in the site, so we do not need any more at this time. If any of them leave, we will let you know that we have a vacancy so that you can take their place
EdSr |
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I am actually thinking of making my own knobs from walnut. I have some pieces with both sapwood and heartwood that could look pretty cool all finished up as knobs I think.
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Wow - this is turning out really nice. I can't wait to see how it looks when it's finished.
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I put the first (or 24th) fret in today. I undercut the tangs on the end with a dremel so that I can fill the slots once I have them all flush. just did one tonight to test out the process. I'm starting at the pickup end so that if I screw one up early in the process I have some material left over and can use it towards the nut.
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Stew-Mac sells a fret tang nipper which, while not exactly the cheapest tool in the catalog, is worth its weight in gold. If you ever plan to do even
ONE fretjob on a bound neck, buy one. Not kidding. Better yet, buy both models as they are sized optimally for two different ranges of fret wire size. |
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"Now they will know why they are afraid of the dark.
Now they will learn why they fear the night."....Thulsa Doom "How are your eyes adjusting to light? It must have been dark under that rock. "..Mosin_nagant |
frets are all in :)
I will clamp them with my sanding block while I put some CA glue through the side holes. That should get them close to level before I start leveling them undercutting them with the dremel was quite easy actually. I clamped the fret down to the table and cut in from the side with a cut off disk up to the mark that I had made. |
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