First off, I know nothing [yet] about welding.

I've been told by a buddy who was a welder in the Navy that he'd go mig if he were starting out and it was just going to be for personal use.

I plan on building a shop so 220 is part of the plan.

I'd prefer to buy once and cry once but don't want to buy twice as much as I'll ever use.

Being totally ignorant, I have no brand bias.

I can see making small repairs and some metal working.  Can't conceive of a need to do so outside of the shop.

What do you think will fit my needs [or correct my needs if I'm heading in the wrong direction].

Thanks

Do you have 220 available right now?  Are you going to put it in before you build the shop?
If the answer is no, then buy a 110 model, can do a lot with some of the 110 migs.

Or build the shop then look for a welder.

I have an older Miller Thunderbolt 210 AC/DC stick welder.  Cost $100 a couple years back.  I replaced the leads.  Does its job, and I don't have to mess with gas.
Someone in General Discussion today had a Lincoln 140C with a lot of extra stuff that would be great to get started with.

Look at the Esab offerings in the 140-180 amp range. Lincoln and Miller are the top tier, but Esab is truly just as nice and has some features that will make learning a lot easier for you, at 80% of the price.
Now if you want to stick weld or tig, things get a bit more interesting, but truly, 90% of all home welding can be done with a 140amp mig. If you think you (as a home hobbiest) want to weld something thick, a 250 amp stick machine will be all you ever need, and there are some reasonable priced machines out there that can do that very well. Some of these machines can be found used for 3-400, or a bit more depending on the accessories that are included. New, expect to spend 900-1500, and about 500 on consumables.

If you want an all in one machine, that can weld a cats ass to a dogs ear, get ready to drop some coin. But if you want to be realistic, an Esab Rebel 205i multi-process machine can stick, tig, and mig with ac and dc options, up to 215ish amps, will run on 110 or 220. I have one that I run off of one of my engine driven welders for thin mig or ac tig. You can be into one for about 2500, and spend that again in consumables to be fully outfitted for anything. Stupid handy being able to string out 200 or so feet of extension cord to fix a bracket on a dozer vs a couple hundred lbs of lead and ground to run off the engine drive, when all I need is about 50amps or less of weld power.

Get a little multi-process like a Lincoln 210MP. It'll do Mig, DC stick, DC tig, and spool gun aluminum. Easy enough to buy the base mig machine and if you need to stick, buy one lead with an electrode holder, tig, buy the tig bits, aluminum, buy the spool gun, etc. If you get to the point that you're looking for AC tig, pulse, etc., you're gonna want to get a dedicated tig machine anyway, so DC tig and a spool gun will pretty much cover anything you need right now. It'll cost you less than $1500.

If you think you absolutely NEED AC tig and 6010 stick, the ESAB Rebel 205IC does the same stuff as the Lincoln, plus AC tig and a 6010 setting in the stick functions. It's $3000, but a nice welder.

Both will do 110/220 so you can use it all over the place.

Lincoln 210MP is a nice machine for the money. I like Miller and Lincoln. Some say Everlast is a nice.

I bought a Lotos 200 ACDC TIG/Stick welder that fills my hobby welding needs and it's doing a fine job so far.  TIG is a challenge to learn because you have to be able to do three independent things simultaneously to make a good weld but the result is a superior weld.  The LOTOS is nice for stick too and I've even put a switch on my handle to use HF start with stick and it's a big improvement but I'd rather not clean flux or grind my welds afterwards so that's why I'm trying to learn TIG.

If you start with MIG it's possible that you'll learn to stick metal together without really learning how to make good welds.  If you really want to learn welding start with gas welding and once mastered all the other welding processes will be relatively easy to pick up.

If you have the bucks Lincoln equipment rarely disappoints.

Miller 220 auto-set mig.   Awesome welding...and if you are just starting, it takes all the guess work out of setting your heat and wire speed.

You want to weld 10ga steel? Set the dial to 10ga....and weld. I've had mine for a few years, couldn't be more happy with it. You can pick them up for around $1000 or less. You will still need a bottle for the gas though.

If you are constantly welding thicker than 1/4" steel....you might be better off with a stick welder.

Thanks all.

How thick can a Lincoln 210MP weld?

Also, what is the optimal thickness for a welding table?  I've been youtube viewing and some of the tabletops as massive.  Why do they have such massively thick tops?

So, the thickness question is like asking how long is a piece of string. Particularly because it doesn't really matter in that class of machine. If you're welding anything of sufficient thickness, you're probably doing multipass welds anyway. Couple that with material choice, gas choice, wire choice, etc., there's really no honest answer. So technically the answer is as thick as you can stand being inefficient and don't mind waiting for the machine to cool. I've welded 3" plate with mine with .045 dual shield flux core, multipass. It was....annoying. The big caveat is that if you think you're gonna single pass some 3/16 jet rod onto the blade of a Cat D6, you're choosing the wrong machine in the first place, and you're not gonna do a decent job no matter what. All of these small machines are really home hobby, small job shop, light production work machines. They're not massive power supplies with wire feeders running 100% duty cycle banging out overhead gantry crane parts for 8 hours a day. You've gotta be realistic in what you want to do with it. Duty cycle is a thing when you start maxing out amperage.

Welding tables want to be thick so that they maintain flatness and dissipate heat. Fixturing a part to a thin table and putting a bunch of heat into it is gonna warp both your part and your table, and neither of those is really acceptable. You also wanna make sure you're not gonna melt your table just by working on it. If you can imagine pre-heating an old dirty cast for some repair, you don't want your table turning into lava.

Ok, is this true:

Lincoln 210MP = Miller 220

As far as welding table thickness goes: would a 1/2" be overkill for a hobby welder using a welder like those mentioned in this thread?

Mig or tig depends on what you want to do with it.  If you don't even know what kind of welding you want to do then you need to read up some to ensure you get what you really want.

I would recommend a name brand that is supported in your area, that's what I did and am plenty happy with what I got.  
Good deal here if you want a mig:  https://promotions.lincolnelectric.com/power-mig-210-mp

My 2 cents, if you don't know what kind of welder to get I wouldn't recommend the name brand Lincoln or Miller as you'll be paying a lot more for their name. Sure they're better in small ways but nothing that you would notice.

I bought an everlast machine and am happy with it. I hear very good things about the new harbor freight welders too, plus with their no questions asked return policy if it doesn't work for your application just take it back.

The problem I see with the import machines, specifically the HF welders, is will they have any kind of support 1, 2, 5, or 10 yrs down the road?  Look at how often HF changes their machines, seems like parts availability or support down the road for troubleshooting would be almost non-existent.  That being said, I'm sure there will be a decent amount of online support from other users, but there is a reason these machines are sold so cheaply.

Splitting hairs with you 10 years down the road you may have a hard time finding parts from even name brand manufacturers. I personally wouldn't buy a Hf welder but that's just because I'm a tool snob I'm still using an old millermatic 200 as my main goto welder that's probably over 20 years old and love it. And that's where I'd point any new welder to, buy a used $100 stick welder off Craigslist or a similar used mig welder.

My Lincoln Power MIG 255 and Pro MIG 140 are each 10+ years old, and there is no shortage of parts available online...the Invertec V-250s, that's a different story.

What do you want to weld ?  That is the question.

Absolutely no need to buy a 225amp machine if you are just going to weld 1/8" angle and plate.
Go look up and study the rod diameters/types to thickness amperage requirements.

My ultimate goal is welding thin wall 4130 for experimental aircraft, that means TIG.   But a low end 70amp TIG machine will do that.

TIG and MIG require GAS, so figure in a gas bottle and all that jazz.

I (and this is just my own approach) got a cheap Amico Power 160amp STICK WELDER to start off with.  
Most of what I want to make will be 3/16" or less.  Amico has a distributor in CA.  Everlast is also a really good brand that gets great reviews.

Stick does not need gas, just power.  A simple change in electrode allows you to do different things.

I did not know if I would even like working with hot metal and welding.

It is fun and very challenging to stick weld stuff.  I am still working on getting a consistent, straight bead.

Mig is maybe more general, and cleaner, but for me I would not use it much, since I plan on going to tig eventually.

I have a Hobart 210MVP. It can weld anything an average homeowner will ever ask of it. It can be plugged into 110 or 220. 110 is limited to lower amperage settings but if you need to get to something and dont have access to 220 you can still get the job done. It doesnt have a large duty cycle but you can run it all day  on 1/8" materials

I bought a Lincoln 210MP

It is just the machine.

What accessories do I need to get to go with it?

If I was going to buy a hobby mig machine I would go to Cyberweld and order a Hobart Ironman 230. The also offer the same machine with a spoolgun if you want to dabble in aluminum mig welding. You will have to buy a bottle of gas for the mig and a bottle of argon if you want to do aluminum.

Stick? I would search FB marketplace or Craigslist for a used Miller ac/dc Thunderbolt or Hobart Stickmate. I got a really nice Thunderbolt 225 from Craigslist for 250.00 dollars.

Tig..... Well, you get what you pay for.

I see you got the Lincoln 210 MP. I hear it is a great machine. I think Lincoln sells a tig package separately.

I have no regrets with my Hobart 210

It should come with everything you need except a gas bottle and maybe wire.  Many (all?) lincolns come with a small spool of flux core wire.

Get a bunch of consumables, it really sucks hitting work stoppage because you need a trinket that you have to order online or run out to buy.  
Buy/lease the biggest gas bottle you can, it will save you a lot of money on gas.  
I stick to name brand consumables and filler metal, there's lots of dirt cheap chinesium available online and I've gotten some of it.  The price difference is tiny and to me it's not worth my time trying the really cheap stuff.

Practice a lot. If you get the settings close it'll weld better than your skill until you get a some experience base.   Don't sweat the small stuff,  lots of people will say you have to do things a certain way or have some special gadget to get good results, but you don't.

Thanks Morgan,

There is an industrial welding supply store a few miles from my farm.  Never been before but I've been told it is well stocked.  How big a tank is optimal?  They also sell all kinds of scrap.  What is good stuff to start practicing on?

What brand names for consumables and filler metal?

Thanks again.

I buy all my sold MIG wire, tips, and nozzles off eBay....they are considerably cheaper online.  As far as a bottle goes, get the biggest one you can....I have a 230 cu ft tank with my 255 Power MIG, another 230 with my TIG, and 120s with my Miller 215 and Pro MIG 140.

Regarding plastic stock, get a bunch of different thicknesses to play with....and make sure it's clean/free if rust for solid wire welding.

Let me know if you want to try some flux core wire, I'll send you some.  Just remember, you have to change the machine's polarity when switching from flux core to solid wire.

You might try opening up an account at your local welding supply for better pricing.

What is your budget? There is a company that called HTP that has some pretty good welders. I have one of their 160 amp models since 1992. It has had a bunch of wire through it. Four of my friends have bought from them in the last five years. I think they are around a grand.

I was looking at this  https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mp250i-multi-process-250-amp-welder.html
Scratch start TIG isn't as nice but duty cycle at a price point is impressive.

60 percent duty cycle at the full output.

110-220  input

It is Lincoln expendables=cheaper

Start with gas and stick which builds skills for TIG MIG.  Brazing can be cool as is soldering skill with gas.

Stick and a grinder can still make strong joints.

TIG and MIG require more prep for strong hold.  Fail in prep and it can be real weak.

Watch every video from welding tips and tricks on YouTube for what ever process you are going to start with. Mig will get you going faster than stick and tig.

If you start with mig, make sure you have your technique down. Mig is known for making good looking welds that are as strong as double sided tape.

Buy a vise and a hammer to test your welds.

Get a bottle of C25 if you start with mig. Skip the flux core headache.

Buy a couple grinders and set them up for different service. Switching  disk all the time is a pain.

A welding cart and a 8 or 10 gauge SOOW rubber extension cord. If you make anything big or heavy it’s a lot easier to move your welder than the work piece. Don’t get an extension cord made out of thermoplastic. It will be stiff as rebar.  

A 220v generator and an inverter stick welder like an ESAB mini arc is very handy for things you can’t bring in the shop.

this guy gets it