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Posted: 3/29/2021 9:07:13 PM EDT
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Spray a good penetrant on it over the course of a day. Find a flathead screwdriver that fits it as best as possible. Go slow.
I that doesn't work, try a set of channel locks. |
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Bunch of amateurs. I'd try to grind a slot in it at 90 to the original as that metal is less likely to be oxidized and weakened.
If that doesn't work, use a good quality screw extractor. No problem. |
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yes, i sprayed a lot of wd40 silicone spray over it for now
i dont have a grinder. buy a dremel? what screw extractor is best? |
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Cordless impact and a bit that fits as snugly as possible. Push hard, keep it straight and get after it, you likely have but 1 chance.
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Real good chance it's going to snap off when you put pressure on it. Wd is not what you need pd blaster or something similar is a better choice
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Leave penetrant at least 24 hours. Take a heat gun and heat it if possible. Take a screwdriver that fits. Longest you have. Gently tap on end of screwdriver with brass hammer. Should loosen it up.
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Quoted: yes, i sprayed a lot of wd40 silicone spray over it for now i dont have a grinder. buy a dremel? what screw extractor is best? View Quote How do you work on your guns if you don’t have a dremel? You could always take a pair of vise grips ahold of it. Does it unscrew clockwise? Does this screw matter if you replace the cartridge style valve with a new one? |
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Soak it, smack it with a hammer and a chisel on 3 sides... Dont break it off but give it some love taps, you'll see the head move around. Back it right out.
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1/4" impact driver with slotted bit. Push into it as hard as you can without breaking the valve.
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Another thing to try is to "shock" the rust by hitting it with a hammer, Then try tightening it. Use lots of penetrating fluid. This actually worked on some seriously rusted screws I had to remove on a drain.
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Quoted: P Blaster and let it sit for a while and use an impact. Or just cut the head off with cutting wheel (air tools?), drill it out and re-tap. Edit: Just noticed the do not overtighten print ... prolly don't want to do the "Or just cut the head off .... " View Quote OP, the screw has rusted into the plastic and may not come out, and if it does whatever is left of the threaded plastic hole will be compromised. Throw it out. |
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Penetrating oil, light taps with a small hammer, then impact driver with a good fitting bit. Or cut it off, remove the part, then penetrating oil and vice grips for the remaining part of the shaft.
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Quoted: P Blaster and let it sit for a while and use an impact. Or just cut the head off with cutting wheel (air tools?), drill it out and re-tap. Edit: Just noticed the do not overtighten print ... prolly don't want to do the "Or just cut the head off .... " View Quote spray PB Blaster several times and lightly use a impact driver.. be patient |
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detachable wand showerhead?
Replace it and save your time for something worthwhile |
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Is the item it is engaged with metal or plastic? If it is plastic it may come out. If it is metal you are probably screwed and the head will snap regardless of what you do.
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Use a Dremel and make the slot deeper, then just use a screwdriver
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Kroil or blaster. Over time. clean slot or grind a screw driver to fit. I would also use a soldering iron to heat it up also before I tried. You don't want to melt the plastic so get it warm.
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Quoted: detachable wand showerhead? Replace it and save your time for something worthwhile View Quote its part of the faucet. delta 17 series page 7, diagram C1 https://media.deltafaucet.com/MandI/68882%20Rev%20J.pdf |
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Judging by the the tile and grout it’s time to redo the entire bathroom anyway.
Sledge hammer. |
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Use a screw driver that fits the screw. As in, fills the slot both in depth and width.
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Quoted: Is the item it is engaged with metal or plastic? If it is plastic it may come out. If it is metal you are probably screwed and the head will snap regardless of what you do. View Quote it should be the screw that goes into the shower cartridge shown in the link https://www.amazon.com/Cartridge-Assembly-Replacement-cartridge-1998-2005/dp/B07FGVMH98/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=RP32104&qid=1617067799&sr=8-2 |
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50-50 mix of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone applied as near to the threads as possible.
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*Looks* like you can sneak a hacksaw blade into the slot, try to cut it a little deeper.. Let the screwdriver tip engage the deeper part of the slot you just cut... This might sound retarded, but I would try to tighten it first, just enough to break it free before I put any stress lefty loosey side...If that is not an option, you could try a soldering iron, and heat the fastener up, and shock it with cold water.. Or you could use a dremel and try and cut a + and use a philips head... might need to do a little of all three... Worst case ontario, left handed drill bits, or easy outs... But honestly, (and most likely) you will destroy the plastics before you get that out...
ETA... Are we 100% sure this is right hand threaded? Im assuming this gets rotated one way for on, and one way for off, there would be no real purpose to have left handed threads, but ya never know... Also, in the pic of the replacement you linked, it *appeared* to have some type of thread locker on the tips of the threads, perhaps you are also dealing with that, along with the rust... |
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Quoted: its part of the faucet. delta 17 series page 7, diagram C1 https://media.deltafaucet.com/MandI/68882%20Rev%20J.pdf View Quote Essentially the same thing happened to me. I ended up ripping the walls down to the studs, and going from there. Also I upgraded to these: |
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If removing the head will allow the parts to come out you can grab the shaft with vise grips and turn it out. Shock, a good fitting screwdriver, and penetrating oil are all good ideas. Tighten and loosen over and over to see if that cracks the rust.
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Grinding works well enough. I've never had a problem anyway.
For good screw extractors most of them work (the reverse-thread helical type) about equally. My personal favorite are Rennsteig, which are bladed. Drill a hole and hammer that sucker in. Screw's coming out. When a regular extractor won't grab, these will. The only problem is freeing the extractor bit from the damaged screw. https://www.kctoolco.com/rennsteig-double-edged-screw-extractor-size-1/ |
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Use your Gunsmith screwdriver set with the hollow-ground bits. Soak the screw with penetrating oil and clean the screwhead slot with a fine wire brush or a toothbrush. Bear down hard on the screwdriver when giving it a twist.
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Just break the plastic it's screwed into. Put a flat head under the plastic and twist and break it. You're replacing the whole thing anyway.
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actually i do not want to break the plastic. just wanted to replace the seat and spring, which is behind the cartridge. my faucet has a leak
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Quoted: Grinding works well enough. I've never had a problem anyway. For good screw extractors most of them work (the reverse-thread helical type) about equally. My personal favorite are Rennsteig, which are bladed. Drill a hole and hammer that sucker in. Screw's coming out. When a regular extractor won't grab, these will. The only problem is freeing the extractor bit from the damaged screw. https://www.kctoolco.com/rennsteig-double-edged-screw-extractor-size-1/ View Quote You do realize that screw is probably a 3mm to 4mm thread? The extractor would have to be tiny. This ain't a half inch bolt. |
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Try some Strike Hold. It's like WD-40 but better. I have dremeled the screw driver slot deeper on screws when they are stuck.
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Quoted: You do realize that screw is probably a 3mm to 4mm thread? The extractor would have to be tiny. This ain't a half inch bolt. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Grinding works well enough. I've never had a problem anyway. For good screw extractors most of them work (the reverse-thread helical type) about equally. My personal favorite are Rennsteig, which are bladed. Drill a hole and hammer that sucker in. Screw's coming out. When a regular extractor won't grab, these will. The only problem is freeing the extractor bit from the damaged screw. https://www.kctoolco.com/rennsteig-double-edged-screw-extractor-size-1/ You do realize that screw is probably a 3mm to 4mm thread? The extractor would have to be tiny. This ain't a half inch bolt. its a 10-24 x 3/4" screw |
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That doesn't look bad. I've taken off similar with my Dewalt 20v impact driver.
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What I would do is hit it with a rust penetrator with the intent to wait 15 minutes, get bored after 5 and then try to YOLO it, and it would either eventually come out or I would break the screw.
Probably not the best way to do, it but I would think any rust penetrator will work. |
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Put the screwdriver in the slot and give it a couple smacks with a hammer. after you apply some kroil. oil You might just get a happy ending.
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