I want to use some scrap stainless thin wall pipe for making legs for my deer feeders. I'm wanting to bend a section of the pipe about 15 degrees for the legs and bolt them to 55 gallon drums.
Should I just take my material to the muffler shop or do you have a suggestion for a DIY bender?

This is thin wall material used in juice processing. I don't have the exact thickness but its about as thick as EMT. Tough to cut and drill.

I hear the Harbor Freight benders are junk as the rollers don't really roll as they have no bearings and the anvils or shoes are cast making them prone to breakage.

A very old technique, with no promises, is to fill the pipe with sand, pack it down, then carefully bend.

Try a mom and pop muffler shop. I had one expand some pipe for free.

Most certainly food grade material is 316L 0.65" wall sanitary tubing, meaning the O.D. is 2", muffler shops use pipe benders, which the measurement is based on the I.D.

They don't like to be bent, and kinks easily.  You can try but it won't be pretty.

This.

Exhaust pipe is od dimensioned, 2" is od dimension.
But thin wall stainless doesn't bend for shit on an exhaust bender.  Try a peice of scrap first, 15 degrees isn't much so it might work.
< Has bent miles of exhaust.

Muffler shop benders will crush the shit out of that tube.

You're better off buying mandrel bends in the size you want.

Another option is to make segmentation cuts with a .045 cutting disc on a 4.5" grinder and tig or mig them afterwards if you have that capability.

Or go on Amazon and search "stainless adjustable legs" and buy something that will work.

Pie cut the tube and weld it up.

You might try a torch with a small tip.  It will likely take several applications, but the technique is as follows:

Heat one small spot (where the inside of the bend will be) to a red heat, and quench.  Let it normalize to ambient temperature.  The tube or shaft will first bend away from the heated spot, but will wind up being bent inward at the heated spot.  Repeat, and move the spot as needed to smooth out the bend and keep it in the same direction.

The underlying principle on why this works is that when you heat a steel material it expands.  But when you heat it to the point of glowing red it softens and thus yields in compression.  Upon cooling that area has been compressed and is shorter in length which pulls the part in a bend.  This technique is very useful for straightening shafts, but should work for tubing.

That is called shrinking the metal.
There are YouTube videos showing how that works. Heat then quench, move to the next spot an inch or two away and repeat until you get the arc you desire. No need to wait for it to cool completely, once quenched, you can move on.

Thank you. Look forward to trying that. My Grandfather left me his torch set. It's been sitting empty for ten years. Sounds like a good reason to get the tanks filled.