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Posted: 12/13/2018 12:35:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Need a little more info. Is that switch going to a relay, or right to the light?
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Posted: 12/13/2018 1:01:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Need a little more info. Is that switch going to a relay, or right to the light? |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 2:39:06 PM EDT
[#3]
Use all the gauge.
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Posted: 12/13/2018 2:59:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: yup how many watts is the light - we talking a glovebox light, dome light, or raccoon blinding spot? |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 2:59:38 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: yup how many watts is the light - we talking a glovebox light, dome light, or raccoon blinding spot? |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 3:04:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This wire effects the headlight. |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 3:09:00 PM EDT
[#7]
This wire is fucked near where it enters the switch. Only effects the headlights.
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Posted: 12/13/2018 3:37:11 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This wire is fucked near where it enters the switch. Only effects the headlights. |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 3:52:22 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 14g will be fine for that. |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 8:18:35 PM EDT
[#10]
I’d get a new pigtail from NAPA and replace the whole thing.
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Posted: 12/13/2018 8:52:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I’d get a new pigtail from NAPA and replace the whole thing. |
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Posted: 12/13/2018 11:15:43 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pigtail? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I’d get a new pigtail from NAPA and replace the whole thing. |
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Posted: 12/14/2018 8:51:49 AM EDT
[#13]
If this is the headlight switch Ford/ Motorcraft sells a pigtail as well. This is a common problem on Ford trucks followed closely by the wires melting at the heater fan switch.
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Posted: 12/14/2018 8:57:32 AM EDT
[#14]
Use ancor crimp connectors and 3m ratcheting crimp tool
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Posted: 12/14/2018 2:57:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Thanks folks. Gonna buy the parts and tools tomorrow.
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Posted: 12/14/2018 3:53:13 PM EDT
[#16]
Nothing less than 2/0 copper will do.
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Posted: 12/14/2018 5:28:08 PM EDT
[#17]
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Posted: 12/14/2018 7:37:09 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
best connector |
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Posted: 12/14/2018 8:02:38 PM EDT
[#19]
oh yeah
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Posted: 12/14/2018 8:14:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use ancor crimp connectors and 3m ratcheting crimp tool I've had very,very few failures. |
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Posted: 12/15/2018 1:29:42 AM EDT
[#21]
500MCM should do it.
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Posted: 12/16/2018 4:38:26 PM EDT
[#22]
Turns out Ford has really upgraded the wiring over the last 18 years.
Butt connectors ain't gonna get it. Too big a difference in wire size. Twisted the appropriate wires together and taped up, for now. Got my headlights back, but lost my running lights and dash light's. A diagram showing which is which would be a huge help. Any links to share? Thanks, Ray |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 7:22:47 PM EDT
[#23]
No one has "upgraded" wire size, it costs too much in weight and copper. They put in exactly what the spec calls for baised on distance of the wire, and amperage load, and then fuse it to prevent over-amperage for that wire size. What it sounds like you are dealing with is a primary power wire for the headlights that likely is coming off the relay.
Edit: you need to provide the year of your ranger to begin to find diagrams. Pictures of what you are trying to do would also be helpful. |
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Posted: 12/16/2018 8:13:15 PM EDT
[#24]
IIt's a 2000 Ford Ranger. I'm looking for a diagram for the headlight switch pigtail, indicating which wires go to which functions. Headlights, dash lights, etc.,.
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