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Posted: 1/25/2021 3:53:41 PM EDT
Found a 1977 trans am (seems to be a trans am not a regular firebird or formula).
Runs and drives. On old tires. Seller says it's had a new carb gas tank, lines, fuel sender, rear brakes and lines and front brakes. 400/auto. Interior center console is gone. Bucket seats are trashed seems like the dash gauge bezel is gone and so is the back seat. Non t top, pinholes in floorboards rust in trunk. Paints fading but not rusting through. Car could use cleaned but any evidence of leaks should still be there hopefully. Guy wants $4500 for it. My passion is 1970's ford trucks. I daily a 79 everyday and love it. This year I was gonna start on my great grandpas 66 Oldsmobile that's all original and there. So I was planning on having a project anyway. This body style of Camaro/firebird are my favorite cars aesthetically. My dad is a trucker, and Smokey and the bandit was huge at our house. Mom dad me and my brother can still almost quote the whole series. What do do I need to know? I'd use it as a hobby/project. Joy rides, driving my dad and bother around. Late nights and weekends wrenching. I don't want to race anybody don't want to go the track. After getting the suspension and interior handled, I'd start building the motor. Carb intake head and lower end rebuild. Probably 450-500 hp end goal if I got to do what I wanted with it. A t56 or built t5 swap would be like I was dreaming but I'd be happy to drive the auto too. My trucks already a 5 speed. I'm thinking, even if I buy it and it just falls apart majorly cleaning it up and reposting I should be able to get 1500-2000 for what's left. And if it doesn't disintegrate I could resell it if I didn't enjoy it after fiddling a little and cleaning a lot for what I've got into it. Comes with an extra set of doors, and seats. I've got the money. I'd enjoy working on it and learning about it. I have a place to do that and two other vehicles to drive while doing it. What do you guys think? No pics imagine a black 77 transam without t tops and fading paint. |
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[#1]
I had one. It was fun by 1977 standards, but it was big, heavy, and grossly underpowered by today's standards.
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[#2]
Quoted: I had one. It was fun by 1977 standards, but it was big, heavy, and grossly underpowered by today's standards. View Quote |
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[#4]
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[#5]
The window trim (back especially) are notorious for holding water and causing rust issues. Be glad it's not a T-Top; those were bad for leaking.
A friend of mine had a new 78 T/A back in HS. Good times. |
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[#6]
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[#7]
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[#8]
Quoted: My 1980 TA is rust free, never had rust. Of course I took care of it over the last 40 years I've owned it. https://i.imgur.com/AO9riaE.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Cool looking cars. Horrible 1970's build quality. Oh yeah, they rust. Bad. My 1980 TA is rust free, never had rust. Of course I took care of it over the last 40 years I've owned it. https://i.imgur.com/AO9riaE.jpg Nice! |
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[#9]
‘77-‘79 Trans ams came with both 400 Pontiac engines and 403 Oldsmobile engines. The Pontiac engine cars are worth a lot more.
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[#10]
A $4500 1977 Trans Am will cost many many thousands in order to transform it from shitbox to retro-sports car.
If it has rust issues, make that TENS OF THOUSANDS. I guarantee that $4,500 shitbox is leaking oil. Let's start with that. How much does that repair cost? And who is going to do it? Federal law requires full compliance with ORIGINAL emissions devices for anything post 1973. No, the repair shop down the street cannot legally "just get rid of" that smog-pump, or "slap some headers on" your shitbox because the pump is seized, or the cast-iron exhaust manifolds have failed. You may be able to get rid of some of that stuff yourself if you don't have to pass a visual emissions inspection due to "antique" status. Don't expect any love for your gearhead fantasy from the breed of cops that are coming on board now. The majority of repair shops won't even touch anything more than tires/brakes/exhaust on any pre-OBD-II. Everybody with a pre-1990 sports car thinks they have something special. 95% of those owners just have a shitbox. |
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[#11]
Quoted: ‘77-‘79 Trans ams came with both 400 Pontiac engines and 403 Oldsmobile engines. The Pontiac engine cars are worth a lot more. View Quote With an auto trans, assuming it is all factory, that will be a 403 Olds. There MAY have been some WS6 automatic cars made with 400 Pontiacs, but I'd have to go digging through my Firebird books to find out. Very unlikely this is one of them. |
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[#12]
I had one but white no T top, 1978. My BIL and I rebuilt the motor and I sunk a lot of money into it. It had dual exhaust and Cherry Bombs on it. I really liked driving it around until I got tired of it. My FIL bought it from me to give to his son as a high school graduation present (younger BIL) and within a month he wrecked it. So ends the tale.
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[#13]
Quoted: My 1980 TA is rust free, never had rust. Of course I took care of it over the last 40 years I've owned it. https://i.imgur.com/AO9riaE.jpg View Quote |
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[#14]
Quoted: A $4500 1977 Trans Am will cost many many thousands in order to transform it from shitbox to retro-sports car. If it has rust issues, make that TENS OF THOUSANDS. I guarantee that $4,500 shitbox is leaking oil. Let's start with that. How much does that repair cost? And who is going to do it? Federal law requires full compliance with ORIGINAL emissions devices for anything post 1973. No, the repair shop down the street cannot legally "just get rid of" that smog-pump, or "slap some headers on" your shitbox because the pump is seized, or the cast-iron exhaust manifolds have failed. You may be able to get rid of some of that stuff yourself if you don't have to pass a visual emissions inspection due to "antique" status. Don't expect any love for your gearhead fantasy from the breed of cops that are coming on board now. The majority of repair shops won't even touch anything more than tires/brakes/exhaust on any pre-OBD-II. Everybody with a pre-1990 sports car thinks they have something special. 95% of those owners just have a shitbox. View Quote I dont care if it's leaking oil, I'll fix whatever it can possibly leak. The fact that I've tagged so many old cars, and have never heard of you 1973 drama leads me to believe I can probably just forget you said it. The only things I get done at shops are tires and exhaust. Not worried about cops having anything against me and is that just new cops or do you think I should worry about that with old cops? I know of 20+ repair shops within 200 miles of me that you drive a studebaker into to get looked at. Thanks for your concern though. If you actually know anything helpful about 1977 trans ams I'm all ears. I'll agree with you on that last part. |
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[#15]
Quoted: A $4500 1977 Trans Am will cost many many thousands in order to transform it from shitbox to retro-sports car. If it has rust issues, make that TENS OF THOUSANDS. I guarantee that $4,500 shitbox is leaking oil. Let's start with that. How much does that repair cost? And who is going to do it? Federal law requires full compliance with ORIGINAL emissions devices for anything post 1973. No, the repair shop down the street cannot legally "just get rid of" that smog-pump, or "slap some headers on" your shitbox because the pump is seized, or the cast-iron exhaust manifolds have failed. You may be able to get rid of some of that stuff yourself if you don't have to pass a visual emissions inspection due to "antique" status. Don't expect any love for your gearhead fantasy from the breed of cops that are coming on board now. The majority of repair shops won't even touch anything more than tires/brakes/exhaust on any pre-OBD-II. Everybody with a pre-1990 sports car thinks they have something special. 95% of those owners just have a shitbox. View Quote But there is no federal inspections and most states don't give a shit. |
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[#16]
Quoted: With an auto trans, assuming it is all factory, that will be a 403 Olds. There MAY have been some WS6 automatic cars made with 400 Pontiacs, but I'd have to go digging through my Firebird books to find out. Very unlikely this is one of them. View Quote |
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[#17]
Quoted: Very cool! High compression 455 right? 1980 is my second favorite front end. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: My 1980 TA is rust free, never had rust. Of course I took care of it over the last 40 years I've owned it. https://i.imgur.com/AO9riaE.jpg Close it's an over bored 428 Pontiac 445 CID and yes stupid high compression. |
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[#18]
Quoted: Found a 1977 trans am (seems to be a trans am not a regular firebird or formula). Runs and drives. On old tires. Seller says it's had a new carb gas tank, lines, fuel sender, rear brakes and lines and front brakes. 400/auto. Interior center console is gone. Bucket seats are trashed seems like the dash gauge bezel is gone and so is the back seat. Non t top, pinholes in floorboards rust in trunk. Paints fading but not rusting through. Car could use cleaned but any evidence of leaks should still be there hopefully. Guy wants $4500 for it. My passion is 1970's ford trucks. I daily a 79 everyday and love it. This year I was gonna start on my great grandpas 66 Oldsmobile that's all original and there. So I was planning on having a project anyway. This body style of Camaro/firebird are my favorite cars aesthetically. My dad is a trucker, and Smokey and the bandit was huge at our house. Mom dad me and my brother can still almost quote the whole series. What do do I need to know? I'd use it as a hobby/project. Joy rides, driving my dad and bother around. Late nights and weekends wrenching. I don't want to race anybody don't want to go the track. After getting the suspension and interior handled, I'd start building the motor. Carb intake head and lower end rebuild. Probably 450-500 hp end goal if I got to do what I wanted with it. A t56 or built t5 swap would be like I was dreaming but I'd be happy to drive the auto too. My trucks already a 5 speed. I'm thinking, even if I buy it and it just falls apart majorly cleaning it up and reposting I should be able to get 1500-2000 for what's left. And if it doesn't disintegrate I could resell it if I didn't enjoy it after fiddling a little and cleaning a lot for what I've got into it. Comes with an extra set of doors, and seats. I've got the money. I'd enjoy working on it and learning about it. I have a place to do that and two other vehicles to drive while doing it. What do you guys think? No pics imagine a black 77 transam without t tops and fading paint. View Quote What does the hood scoop say? True Pontiac engined cars will have T/A 6.6L. The 403 Olds corporate motor cars have 6.6 Liter. |
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[#19]
Quoted: But there is no federal inspections and most states don't give a shit. View Quote All it takes is for a disgruntled employee (none of them in the auto industry right) to drop a dime on an employer who is defeating factory emissions in restorations and resto-mods and the hammer falls HARD on the shops doing that sort of work. |
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[#20]
Quoted: A $4500 1977 Trans Am will cost many many thousands in order to transform it from shitbox to retro-sports car. If it has rust issues, make that TENS OF THOUSANDS. I guarantee that $4,500 shitbox is leaking oil. Let's start with that. How much does that repair cost? And who is going to do it? Federal law requires full compliance with ORIGINAL emissions devices for anything post 1973. No, the repair shop down the street cannot legally "just get rid of" that smog-pump, or "slap some headers on" your shitbox because the pump is seized, or the cast-iron exhaust manifolds have failed. You may be able to get rid of some of that stuff yourself if you don't have to pass a visual emissions inspection due to "antique" status. Don't expect any love for your gearhead fantasy from the breed of cops that are coming on board now. The majority of repair shops won't even touch anything more than tires/brakes/exhaust on any pre-OBD-II. Everybody with a pre-1990 sports car thinks they have something special. 95% of those owners just have a shitbox. View Quote lol, you must live in Kali. Back on topic: Not a T-top car? DO IT. I always hated the trouble that came with T-top F-bodys. If it has rust, it'll be a chore. Other than that...sounds like a project. |
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[#22]
Buy it. There are easy upgrades to improve power and drivability. They are neat cars
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[#23]
OP how bad is the rust and how much work can you do on your own? Get a list of what needs to be done and price it out. You may find that it is better to buy one in better shape that needs less work. You might be money ahead?
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[#24]
Quoted: A $4500 1977 Trans Am will cost many many thousands in order to transform it from shitbox to retro-sports car. If it has rust issues, make that TENS OF THOUSANDS. I guarantee that $4,500 shitbox is leaking oil. Let's start with that. How much does that repair cost? And who is going to do it? Federal law requires full compliance with ORIGINAL emissions devices for anything post 1973. No, the repair shop down the street cannot legally "just get rid of" that smog-pump, or "slap some headers on" your shitbox because the pump is seized, or the cast-iron exhaust manifolds have failed. You may be able to get rid of some of that stuff yourself if you don't have to pass a visual emissions inspection due to "antique" status. Don't expect any love for your gearhead fantasy from the breed of cops that are coming on board now. The majority of repair shops won't even touch anything more than tires/brakes/exhaust on any pre-OBD-II. Everybody with a pre-1990 sports car thinks they have something special. 95% of those owners just have a shitbox. View Quote Damn, dude. Here in the communist land of NY, cars older than 25yrs are completely exempt from emissions testing. OP, the shop down the street from my office has two T/A’s sitting out front right now. Cool old cars. If it’s not a shit box, grab it! Upgrade as you go, which is part of the joy of ownership. |
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[#25]
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[#26]
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[#27]
I know nothing about cars, so take this for what it’s worth
Probably 15 years ago my best friend had a ‘78 for about 5 years. The day he sold that car he said was one of the happiest days of his life. Constantly needing something. Constantly not working correctly. It didn’t help that it was his only car, so he was trying to use it as a daily driver instead of a collectible But he ended up hating that car after dreaming his whole life of owning one (we are children of the 70s, so it was a dream car when we were kids) |
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[#28]
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[#29]
You should be able to get all the new interior parts you need.
The thing I would be concerned about is the rust through the floorboards & trunk. It's a cool car with a pretty big engine bay that should be easy to work on (the 2nd gen engine bay is much larger than the 3rd & 4th gens). |
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[#30]
Tons of upgrades available. It is an excellent body shell as a host for however far you want to take it.
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[#31]
Car needs a trunk floor. Just the center mainly. Seems like a new trunk floor is about $150 so no biggie. It is a Pontiac 400. Do these cars rust in the rockers? Roof lines? Wheel wells? Doors? They still have the problem with the door sag? Is that fixed in pins or do the hinges or doors themselves break down?
I know everything from the 70's does everything I listed. Are these cars especially worse about it? I'd do all the work myself. The only things I sub out are tire installs, exhaust work, or differential work. Those three I think are simpler to have done. |
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[#32]
If the rust isn't enough to scare you away, do it.
Everything else is gravy compared to rust repair. Who cares if modern muscle is faster. Project cars are fun. |
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[#33]
I am 7 years into restoring my 67 Firebird. My only real advice is to come up with an overall plan of exactly what you envision the end result to be and stick to it.
In my case im on my third motor and I probably haven't driven the thing more than 2000 miles. My girlfriend says that I like working on it more than driving it. First motor was all worn out, second motor was good, third motor is just right lol. There are so many parts and ways to customized these cars, you could work on it for the rest of your life! |
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[#34]
In their time they were considered very hot shit.
In todays time just about anything but the worst econobox will beat it in any category but tire smoking and dangerous fishtailing. Cars from that era are a pain to restore because they rust and have lots of plastic to fall apart. Even if you put in the time to fix it up you won't have much unless you some how have a huge emotional connection to that era. I would suggest any number of 1960's cars or trucks to be more worthwhile project |
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[#35]
Quoted: Car needs a trunk floor. Just the center mainly. Seems like a new trunk floor is about $150 so no biggie. It is a Pontiac 400. Do these cars rust in the rockers? Roof lines? Wheel wells? Doors? They still have the problem with the door sag? Is that fixed in pins or do the hinges or doors themselves break down? I know everything from the 70's does everything I listed. Are these cars especially worse about it? I'd do all the work myself. The only things I sub out are tire installs, exhaust work, or differential work. Those three I think are simpler to have done. View Quote They rust everywhere but the fenders! Check to see if the drain plug is still intact, it is right behind the rear wheel about 2" inside the quarter panel. If it was pulled like I did the first year I pulled it the chance of rust in the quarters is greatly reduced. Also check the sub frames as they can themselves rust out. |
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[#36]
Attached File
I had the '77 pictured. Was a fun project. I bought it as a roller and did some body work. The areas to watch on these are the front fenders right behind the tires, around the rear window, and the rear subframe on the bottom, right before they swoop upwards. First thing I'd do besides rust repair is new body mounts, and subframe connectors. Interiors are easy to work on. This one had complete seats from a 4th gen in it. Swap whatever motor you want into it. The one pictured had a 455 Olds that would just about pull the front wheels from the torque. It was a fun project, I kinda regret selling it. Most of my cars are restorations not resto-mods, so doing one where I wasn't trying to replicate the factory work was nice. This started life as a firebird and I added some of the TA parts like the spoiler. I kinda dug the sleek black look. Was fun to have one that I could just thrash on and not worry about. |
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[#37]
Does the hood shaker say 6.6 Litre or T/A 6.6? The latter is the Pontiac motor.
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[#38]
I had a '78 White Camaro with red interior (and nice shaggy red seat covers) with the POS 305...it was a turd...but hey, the trailer park gurls LOVED it...so there's that...LOL...I had it back in high school (1988 or so...I only had it for 9 months because it kept on breaking down...my crappy driving may have had something to do with it?).
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[#39]
Quoted: If the rust isn't enough to scare you away, do it. Everything else is gravy compared to rust repair. Who cares if modern muscle is faster. Project cars are fun. View Quote Yeah thats how I see it. Guess what? Next year all these fastest cars from this year, are gonna be second fastest to next year.... I've never understood the "that's faster than that" speak. There's something faster than everything and everybody. Honestly sitting around twisted up over someone having a possession thats "faster" than your possession, seems really shitty. Buy/build what you want really who cares that it's not the mostest whatever. eta rust does scare me I don't want to cut the whole bottom half off this car. At that point I would rather just find one that's not rusted to crap from the beginning. It's not really the money I'd do the work myself but I'm not gonna spend 100's of hours on body work/ rust repair. I also don't want something someone else put 100's of hours of bodywork into either. I know how people are. |
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[#40]
Quoted: I am 7 years into restoring my 67 Firebird. My only real advice is to come up with an overall plan of exactly what you envision the end result to be and stick to it. In my case im on my third motor and I probably haven't driven the thing more than 2000 miles. My girlfriend says that I like working on it more than driving it. First motor was all worn out, second motor was good, third motor is just right lol. There are so many parts and ways to customized these cars, you could work on it for the rest of your life! View Quote |
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[#41]
Quoted: They rust everywhere but the fenders! Check to see if the drain plug is still intact, it is right behind the rear wheel about 2" inside the quarter panel. If it was pulled like I did the first year I pulled it the chance of rust in the quarters is greatly reduced. Also check the sub frames as they can themselves rust out. View Quote |
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[#42]
Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/420963/77_firebird_jpg-1799047.JPG I had the '77 pictured. Was a fun project. I bought it as a roller and did some body work. The areas to watch on these are the front fenders right behind the tires, around the rear window, and the rear subframe on the bottom, right before they swoop upwards. First thing I'd do besides rust repair is new body mounts, and subframe connectors. Interiors are easy to work on. This one had complete seats from a 4th gen in it. Swap whatever motor you want into it. The one pictured had a 455 Olds that would just about pull the front wheels from the torque. It was a fun project, I kinda regret selling it. Most of my cars are restorations not resto-mods, so doing one where I wasn't trying to replicate the factory work was nice. This started life as a firebird and I added some of the TA parts like the spoiler. I kinda dug the sleek black look. Was fun to have one that I could just thrash on and not worry about. View Quote |
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[#43]
Quoted: thank you thank you. Will check all that. Rear window rust is bad I might not be able to fix that so well myself. I'm not into restorations for my self. I love seeing other people restos in any form but personally I don't like adhering to a strict design honestly because I don't have the money to have a lot of cars lol. If I could have 1-2 to play with then finding a car I really like in its original form would be easier. I do prefer stock over anything else, but sometimes stuff is easier to upgrade than it is to replace. I keep my 79 as factory as I can without limiting myself and it. View Quote My other two cars, 81 TA pace car and 77 Can Am are both fairly rare, so I like to keep them in "stock" or as close as I can reasonably get appearance. The black firebird was a nice change of pace. The door sag is usually just the pins and bushings. Easily fixed - I did both doors by myself on the 77. |
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[#44]
Those are sexy cars
But, you'll have minimum of 10k into it before it's not a pos. That would go a long way in the purchase of a modern camero with an LS, AC, cruise control, etc. Old cars,trucks, and bikes are cool, but they are shit by modern standards. I bet my 362,000 mile caravan would out run it. |
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[#45]
Went and checked it. Rust is not to bad it has a small spot in the front floorboards and the trunk. Fenders wheel wells rockers and window frame look good. Cold the engine started and idled correctly. Electric choke works. Lots to say about this or that but over all it passed inspection we took it around his neighborhood agreed on a price and me coming back in a day or two to look at some stuff closer.
Now he's found a guy willing to trade him a half built plane for it. Which he told was the reason why he was selling in the first place, to have the garage space to build a plane. So now I'm waiting on that. Does it bug me? Yes. Is it his car and a supposedly free country? Yes. We didn't shake on anything, like that matters. I shoulda brought the money if I wanted it so bad . I'll be there with a trailer when/if he decides to sell it to me. Which is supposed to be Saturday night. |
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[#46]
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[#47]
Quoted: Went and checked it. Rust is not to bad it has a small spot in the front floorboards and the trunk. Fenders wheel wells rockers and window frame look good. Cold the engine started and idled correctly. Electric choke works. Lots to say about this or that but over all it passed inspection we took it around his neighborhood agreed on a price and me coming back in a day or two to look at some stuff closer. Now he's found a guy willing to trade him a half built plane for it. Which he told was the reason why he was selling in the first place, to have the garage space to build a plane. So now I'm waiting on that. Does it bug me? Yes. Is it his car and a supposedly free country? Yes. We didn't shake on anything, like that matters. I shoulda brought the money if I wanted it so bad . I'll be there with a trailer when/if he decides to sell it to me. Which is supposed to be Saturday night. View Quote You really have to show up to these with a stack of brand new $100 bills - money in hand now persuades people to not wait for some guy that might do a deal later... |
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[#49]
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[#50]
Quoted: Car needs a trunk floor. Just the center mainly. Seems like a new trunk floor is about $150 so no biggie. It is a Pontiac 400. Do these cars rust in the rockers? Roof lines? Wheel wells? Doors? They still have the problem with the door sag? Is that fixed in pins or do the hinges or doors themselves break down? I know everything from the 70's does everything I listed. Are these cars especially worse about it? I'd do all the work myself. The only things I sub out are tire installs, exhaust work, or differential work. Those three I think are simpler to have done. View Quote Rust is the devil on these old FBodies, and most people left them outside. Rear Rockers, bottom of doors, around the rear window. Yes doors sag, fix the hinges while the front fenders are off. Ring Bros makes an incredible set of billet hinges that will last forever, but they aren't cheap. You've already found the rusty floors and trunk. Pretty much everything is available either NOS or repo for 77's. Plenty of modifications are fairly easy to make the car your own. The 2nd digit of the Vin should be W if it's a real TA. The 4th digit should be a Z for a 400 or a K for the Olds 403. Good luck and post pics! Attached File |
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