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Posted: 7/23/2020 1:49:54 PM EDT
After we flush the toilet still sings. Gasket for the flapper looks good. What else should I check?
https://streamable.com/wlm2rf New video as well https://streamable.com/kzgvux |
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If you lift up the float a little do it stop?
If it do, turnt the adjustment screw anti clockwise |
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I can't get the video to load on my phone but sounds like you need to adjust or replace the float
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Probably from overuse, just start pissing in the sink from now on.
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Do you have hard water where you live? Calcification around where the flapper seats can obstruct if from fully closing.
Lift flapper, run your finger around the edge. If it feels like sandpaper, gently scrape that stuff off so that you expose the smooth porcelain finish. You can also use vinegar (light build up) or muratic acid if you have a significant build up. |
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Drip some food coloring in the tank to see how bad the leakage is.
Ah, the days of wiggling the handle to make it stop. |
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Replace the seal that is hidden under the top red cap, problem solved...likely. It's a flat round dish thing and costs just a couple of bucks at HD/Lowes.
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If the Fill Valve is adjustable, try adjusting it until the noise stops. If that doesn't work you'll have to replace the Fill Valve.
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Quoted: I turned this piece clockwise a shit ton of times and it stopped. Wonder how it got out of adjustments. Should water be right at the brim of the black overflow tube? https://i.ibb.co/gj0ZWPw/20200723-135925.jpg View Quote Leave it as is if it works, but it looks like Fill Valve needs to be replaced. As long as you don't have a rusty water shut-off for the toilet, it should take about 20-30 minutes. |
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It looks like the float was adjusted too high for some reason don't know how that changed. I lowered it which lowered where the water line is written on the overflow tube. It still fills completely then sings for a few seconds, then stops, which is weird. Never done that before.
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Quoted: It looks like the float was adjusted too high for some reason don't know how that changed. I lowered it which lowered where the water line is written on the overflow tube. It still fills completely then sings for a few seconds, then stops, which is weird. Never done that before. View Quote Ballcock valves fail and wear out requiring more force from the float to close them. Easy to replace ball cock. |
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Quoted: there is no ball cock in this setup as far as I can tell. I think you like saying ball cock View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Ballcock valves fail and wear out requiring more force from the float to close them. Easy to replace ball cock. there is no ball cock in this setup as far as I can tell. I think you like saying ball cock I wish I could find tier 1 ball cocks. I’m not impressed with the fluidmaster ball cocks. My toilets had all metal ball cocks. Those were damn fine ball cocks. Not a cheap plastic ball cock. Not a fan of plastic ball cocks. Those are inferior ball cocks. Ballcock! |
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Oh, and while you're at it put a quality 1/4 turn angle valve for the shut off with a stainless steel braided feed line in if you don't already have them there or if the current ones are 10+ years old. You're looking at an added $20 for the knowledge that the line won't burst and if the toilet overflows you can shut it off at the feed line without running outside in your skivvies at night hunting for channel locks and the main shut off.
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Quoted: Oh, and while you're at it put a quality 1/4 turn angle valve for the shut off with a stainless steel braided feed line in if you don't already have them there or if the current ones are 10+ years old. You're looking at an added $20 for the knowledge that the line won't burst and if the toilet overflows you can shut it off at the feed line without running outside in your skivvies at night hunting for channel locks and the main shut off. View Quote Already has the braided line and quarter turn shutoff. Thankfully the water shutoff to the house is inside as well. |
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Second or third or fourth on what @nickmemphis says. Replace all that shit for $50 and be done with it.
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I think Kohler toilets have a different bowl fill rate than the standard fluidmaster fill valve, so if you use a standard fill valve the fill rate might be off. But if you want to keep it simple, and don't want to replace the whole fill valve, here's a few quick fixes.
There should be a yellow water level mark on the right side of the black flush cylinder. Replacing the 242 seal in a Fluidmaster 400 series fill valve Fluidmaster Toilet Fill Valve-Done in 30 Seconds with NO TOOLS!!! |
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Quoted: I think Kohler toilets have a different bowl fill rate than the standard fluidmaster fill valve, so if you use a standard fill valve the fill rate might be off. But if you want to keep it simple, and don't want to replace the whole fill valve, here's a few quick fixes. There should be a yellow water level mark on the right side of the black flush cylinder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NJ6flNDIYs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6J1cfvQOGg View Quote Kohler's are geared to be quiet, so they have a slower filling fluid master with a light purple top. I guess rich people got time. I always replace them with a standard red top. ETA: OP you could try taking the gasket out of the fluid master and turning it 90 degrees and see what she does. |
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Quoted: I turned this piece clockwise a shit ton of times and it stopped. Wonder how it got out of adjustments. Should water be right at the brim of the black overflow tube? https://i.ibb.co/gj0ZWPw/20200723-135925.jpg View Quote No. About a 1/2 inch below the rim, generally. The reason a Fluidmaster 400A is a better design than the cheapy ballcock standard on toilets is a Fluidmaster works with the water pressure, I.E., the pressure acts in such a way as to hold the valve shut, whereas a ball cock design requires the pressure be restrained by the buoyancy of the float on the effort arm. Anything goes wrong on a ballcock fill valve, regardless, step one is replace with a 400A. The inventor, btw, was a German immigrant who also is behind the Kwikset lock family of products. The only thing that ever fails on a Fluidmaster is the rubber gasket under the cap, which is only a couple dollars anywhere Fluidmaster fill valves are sold and takes two minutes to switch out. |
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Quoted: No. About a 1/2 inch below the rim, generally. The reason a Fluidmaster 400A is a better design than the cheapy ballcock standard on toilets is a Fluidmaster works with the water pressure, I.E., the pressure acts in such a way as to hold the valve shut, whereas a ball cock design requires the pressure be restrained by the buoyancy of the float on the effort arm. Anything goes wrong on a ballcock fill valve, regardless, step one is replace with a 400A. The inventor, btw, was a German immigrant who also is behind the Kwikset lock family of products. The only thing that ever fails on a Fluidmaster is the rubber gasket under the cap, which is only a couple dollars anywhere Fluidmaster fill valves are sold and takes two minutes to switch out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I turned this piece clockwise a shit ton of times and it stopped. Wonder how it got out of adjustments. Should water be right at the brim of the black overflow tube? https://i.ibb.co/gj0ZWPw/20200723-135925.jpg No. About a 1/2 inch below the rim, generally. The reason a Fluidmaster 400A is a better design than the cheapy ballcock standard on toilets is a Fluidmaster works with the water pressure, I.E., the pressure acts in such a way as to hold the valve shut, whereas a ball cock design requires the pressure be restrained by the buoyancy of the float on the effort arm. Anything goes wrong on a ballcock fill valve, regardless, step one is replace with a 400A. The inventor, btw, was a German immigrant who also is behind the Kwikset lock family of products. The only thing that ever fails on a Fluidmaster is the rubber gasket under the cap, which is only a couple dollars anywhere Fluidmaster fill valves are sold and takes two minutes to switch out. Ballcock! |
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Quoted: Replace with fluidmaster 400A and be done with it. View Quote This is the correct answer |
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Quoted: Replace the seal that is hidden under the top red cap, problem solved...likely. It's a flat round dish thing and costs just a couple of bucks at HD/Lowes. View Quote https://www.lowes.com/pd/KOHLER-1-in-Flush-Valve-Seal-for-Kohler/3508524?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-lia-_-208-_-toiletrepair-_-3508524-_-0&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_prWia_u6gIVlozICh3bCAXnEAQYASABEgJqRvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds |
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I don't know fellas. I futsed around with the black adjustment screw and it stopped happening.
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