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Posted: 12/18/2018 11:50:36 PM EDT
Fuck off. Trying to change the brakes on the wife's van and the previous owner must have took it to a shitty shop. Driver's side is all that's left but hot damn the caliper bracket bolts are tight. My 1/2" impact isn't moving them. I sheared an extension with a breaker bar ( my fault probably had some twist). They're not rusted, all the others had anti sieze so they're just fucking over tightened.
So if you don't follow torque specs, fuck off. I know OP stop being a pussy,. Go be poor somewhere else, don't buy used cars, take it too a shop time is worth more than the savings. Etc Attached File |
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Fuck off. Trying to change the brakes on the wife's van and the previous owner must have took it to a shitty shop. Driver's side is all that's left but hot damn the caliper bracket bolts are tight. My 1/2" impact isn't moving them. I sheared an extension with a breaker bar ( my fault probably had some twist). They're not rusted, all the others had anti sieze so they're just fucking over tightened. So if you don't follow torque specs, fuck off. I know OP stop being a pussy,. Go be poor somewhere else, don't buy used cars, take it too a shop time is worth more than the savings. Etc https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/326804/IMG_20181218_224959_jpg-777342.JPG View Quote |
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The caliper bolts are torqued to 180lbft on my F150. Took a big impact and heat to get them loose.
Have you checked the torque spec for yours? I doubt anywhere near that but just curious. |
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I'd be curious when you do get it off it it was over torqued or there was in fact some corrosion. Look on the bright side, at least you did not bust your knuckles!
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Damn, Hondas have 19mm/3/4" headed caliper bolts? Hard to believe a decent 1/2" impact wouldn't at least twist the bolt head off to make removal easier.
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Put the closed end of a wrench on there and whack it a few times with a big hammer.
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It happens. The other day I just about had to do a chin up on a 18” pipe wrench to get this black iron gas joint apart. Fucking retards.
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I doubt it was an issue of over-torquing, caliper bolts can simply be a bitch to remove on damn near any vehicle. Heat cycling certainly doesn't help, and it wouldn't surprise me if you were the first person to remove them since the factory...they've probably been in place for a while, and things can get tighter over time (corrosion, heat cycling, etc). Plus, don't a lot of manufacturers use some kind of thread locker(?) on caliper bolts?
I know I replaced the pads on our Expedition this year, and they were an absolute bitch...took long handled 1/2" breaker bar and damn near all my 178lbs could manage to get them loose. Just to be curious, what brand extension did you shear? |
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I'd be curious when you do get it off it it was over torqued or there was in fact some corrosion. Look on the bright side, at least you did not bust your knuckles! View Quote |
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heat, cool, wet, heat, cool, wet repeat and that gives you locked threads
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But it's a 20 year old Campbell hausfeld. View Quote |
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If its the CH impact I'm thinking of, those things are notoriously weak...even when cranked up to 135psi. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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OP, I use the closed wrench and hammer method almost every time. It works.
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Quoted:
Fuck off. Trying to change the brakes on the wife's van and the previous owner must have took it to a shitty shop. Driver's side is all that's left but hot damn the caliper bracket bolts are tight. My 1/2" impact isn't moving them. I sheared an extension with a breaker bar ( my fault probably had some twist). They're not rusted, all the others had anti sieze so they're just fucking over tightened. So if you don't follow torque specs, fuck off. I know OP stop being a pussy,. Go be poor somewhere else, don't buy used cars, take it too a shop time is worth more than the savings. Etc https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/326804/IMG_20181218_224959_jpg-777342.JPG View Quote |
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Make sure you use the correct wrench though (metric), the last thing you want to do is strip the head of that bolt with a standard wrench.
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Quoted: Yeah, not to bag on your tools OP but that CH impact probably delivers less ass than a "modern/good" 3/8 impact. I have an old cheapo 1/2" impact that just really sucks and needs tossed cuz it wasn't worth a shit when it was new and I never use it. View Quote |
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Snug up an impact wrench and let her eat.
Itll probably come loose. |
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Make sure you use the correct wrench though (metric), the last thing you want to do is strip the head of that bolt with a standard wrench. View Quote |
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Quoted:
The caliper bolts are torqued to 180lbft on my F150. Took a big impact and heat to get them loose. Have you checked the torque spec for yours? I doubt anywhere near that but just curious. View Quote Worst part is torque after reinstall. |
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Should be no problem. Turn steering wheel to left or right to gain clearance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Quoted: 19mm 3/4 is same same iirc. The 18mm doesn't go on and the 3/4 feels tighter than the 19mm View Quote Is the same size. Same as 22-7/8 and 24-15/16 Honda does not use 18mm. It’s a 19mm or a 17mm for a front caliper bracket. If it’s a new enough Honda a 1/2” impact should either get the bolt loose or break the head off. Or at least the breaker bar should. I would use a 1/2” socket set and extension though. I use a smaller dewalt 20v impact to do just about everything on a Honda except crank bolts and things I use 1/4 drive for. |
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heat and beat.
Also, seeing as your extension snapped instead of twisted then broke maybe it already had a small crack in it? Who knows. I'd get an impact rated extension, put a little heat on it, and steady pressure. |
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