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Posted: 1/22/2021 10:59:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Absolutely
I'd put some sort of oil or grease on the threads |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 10:59:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Was the can still hot when you tightened it? As the can cooled the metal could have shrank and made it a bit tighter?
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Posted: 1/22/2021 10:59:52 AM EDT
[#3]
Use anti seize on the threads.
But why are you cleaning a centerfire rifle suppressor? Leave it alone. |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:06:25 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Was the can still hot when you tightened it? As the can cooled the metal could have shrank and made it a bit tighter? No,,,STP |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:09:27 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Use anti seize on the threads. But why are you cleaning a centerfire rifle suppressor? Leave it alone. It was DIRTY! LOL I ran my finger inside it and it felt like it normally does ( a bit crusty) but I discovered one spot that had an accumulation about the size of a .22 caliber pellet. Bad news. I'm getting ready for a match and I didn't want any "chunks" coming loose while in the middle of a stage. Soooooo I cleaned it. |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:16:34 AM EDT
[#6]
I've never cleaned a centerfire can, but I have only ever heard mineral spirits being the recommended liquid to do so. I've cleaned muzzle brakes with CLB, though, and it strips off more than just the carbon . . . it'll turn a black/parkerized brake somewhat shiny. My guess (and that's all it is) is that CLP stripped off some part of the surface that was adding lubricity.
As far as using grease - I wouldn't do that without checking with TBAC. Torquing with additional lube is usually not recommended, because it actually increases the "tightness" relative to the force used to tighten. |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:18:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Lube/anti seize is not needed.
A tiny bit of anti seize is fine if you want to use it. I never do. It probably locked up tighter because there was no microscopic debris between the shoulders |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:19:36 AM EDT
[#8]
I use silicone oil on the threads of my .22 can but only because I have it sitting there, handy, when I finish cleaning the can.
YMMV. |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:22:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Lube/anti seize is not needed. A tiny bit of anti seize is fine if you want to use it. I never do. It probably locked up tighter because there was no microscopic debris between the shoulders I believe you are correct. It went in an ultra sonic cleaner for a few minutes as well. It was CLEAN though I didn't put under the electron microscope. Just seemed to take 3-4 times the normal effort to unscrew it. |
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:28:47 AM EDT
[#10]
Also remember the tapered shoulders lock up a lot tighter than a normal 90-degree shoulder so you don't need to really reef on it to get it "tight"
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:31:10 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also remember the tapered shoulders lock up a lot tighter than a normal 90-degree shoulder so you don't need to really reef on it to get it "tight" That one's new to me 
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:41:46 AM EDT
[#12]
I use a light film of molyB anti seize on the bearing surfaces of my keymo mount. My 22 can doesn’t get anything on the threads. That’s said you baked off the anti corrosion film it had on it. It probably wouldn’t hurt to put something back on the threads. Just a light film to protect and lubricate it.
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Posted: 1/22/2021 11:51:49 AM EDT
[#13]
I use anti-seize on a few of my cans. I typically just lay my can on the bench, grab my anti-seize off the shelf, walk by my bench and the can ends up slathered in anti-seize.
I haven’t used ant-seize on my Ultra 9 yet. I hit my .22 cans with anti-seize pretty faithfully. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 8:51:42 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I use a light film of molyB anti seize on the bearing surfaces of my keymo mount. My 22 can doesn’t get anything on the threads. That’s said you baked off the anti corrosion film it had on it. It probably wouldn’t hurt to put something back on the threads. Just a light film to protect and lubricate it. I can't imagine baking anything off at the temps I used . |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 8:53:26 AM EDT
[#15]
How to clean center fire can....
Bang on table Done |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:06:29 AM EDT
[#16]
This is why I don’t clean my cans.
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:11:09 AM EDT
[#17]
I like suppressors
Zak - I got to fondle a Dominus last night. Felt like you forgot the baffles 
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:18:31 AM EDT
[#18]
I'm shooting an AI in 6mm CM and I really like the accuracy of it. After looking in the can and feeling what I felt I doubt seriously if anyone here would choose to continue shooting it. It was "crusty" inside as normal BUT there was an area near the threads that had a "chunk" about the size of a .22 cal pellet that was apparently growing as I continued to use it. I liken it to a stalagtite in a cave and I was afraid that the projo was going to eventually hit the carbon in the build up.
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:23:28 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm shooting an AI in 6mm CM and I really like the accuracy of it. After looking in the can and feeling what I felt I doubt seriously if anyone here would choose to continue shooting it. It was "crusty" inside as normal BUT there was an area near the threads that had a "chunk" about the size of a .22 cal pellet that was apparently growing as I continued to use it. I liken it to a stalagtite in a cave and I was afraid that the projo was going to eventually hit the carbon in the build up. Center fire cans are self regulating. Carbon in, carbon out. I have never cleaned a center fire can and I have a can with 40k through it. Never had a problem. 22 cans of course. I use bore butter on the baffles to make that job easier or if they are stainless baffles throw them in the wet tumbler. Pistol cans get the same treatment, but with a much longer interval. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:34:01 AM EDT
[#20]
You don't need to clean center fire rifle cans.
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:34:39 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is why I don’t clean my cans. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:49:14 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Center fire cans are self regulating. Carbon in, carbon out. I have never cleaned a center fire can and I have a can with 40k through it. Never had a problem. 22 cans of course. I use bore butter on the baffles to make that job easier or if they are stainless baffles throw them in the wet tumbler. Pistol cans get the same treatment, but with a much longer interval. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Dumb-to-stay-away-from-welded-stacks-/20-518481/#top  Attached File |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 9:58:29 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I use a light film of molyB anti seize on the bearing surfaces of my keymo mount. My 22 can doesn’t get anything on the threads. That’s said you baked off the anti corrosion film it had on it. It probably wouldn’t hurt to put something back on the threads. Just a light film to protect and lubricate it. You mean by shooting it, right? Because it's going to get a lot hotter than the 160 degrees he used in the oven during shooting. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 2:15:06 PM EDT
[#24]
I say this as someone who hates cleaning his own cans and hardly ever does it. We used to follow the line of "carbon in carbon out", which was our experience up to a certain point. However, more data from tens of thousands of cans and test units with extreme firing schedule caused us to change our "company line" on cleaning.
Centerfire cans usually should be cleaned. You might luck out with powder vs. pressure and have it enter "stasis", but even then it will probably weigh more than it needs to. In MOST cases, you will see a slow accumulation of carbon that you will want to clean out. In SOME CASES, you will get an accelerated accumulation of carbon and have to clean it more often. For example, H1000 causes accumulation at a rate between 5-10X faster than typical 223/308 rifle powders. "Almost all" sealed/fully welded centerfire rifle suppressors can be fully cleaned using chemical means. It is best to clean when you get no more than 2-3 ounces of carbon in the suppressor. If you wait and get like a half pound of carbon in there, it's going to take disproportionately longer to get it all out. Most cans are quietest when they are slightly fouled; however, if you get over 2-3 ounces of carbon in there suppression will be reduced. You will likely be able to tell "by ear" when you get between 4-8 additional ounces of carbon in there. At TBAC we offer our customers one free cleaning at our factory once a year, if the customer covers shipping. We don't do anything special that you can't do, we just are set up for it. Zak - I got to fondle a Dominus last night. Felt like you forgot the baffles Sorry, our bad  Put it in the oven at 160 degrees for an hour to drive all the moisture out This obviously won't hurt the can, but it's overkill. Just shake it out and maybe blow it out with an air hose. |
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Posted: 1/23/2021 2:24:06 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I say this as someone who hates cleaning his own cans and hardly ever does it. We used to follow the line of "carbon in carbon out", which was our experience up to a certain point. However, more data from tens of thousands of cans and test units with extreme firing schedule caused us to change our "company line" on cleaning. Centerfire cans usually should be cleaned. You might luck out with powder vs. pressure and have it enter "stasis", but even then it will probably weigh more than it needs to. In MOST cases, you will see a slow accumulation of carbon that you will want to clean out. In SOME CASES, you will get an accelerated accumulation of carbon and have to clean it more often. For example, H1000 causes accumulation at a rate between 5-10X faster than typical 223/308 rifle powders. "Almost all" sealed/fully welded centerfire rifle suppressors can be fully cleaned using chemical means. It is best to clean when you get no more than 2-3 ounces of carbon in the suppressor. If you wait and get like a half pound of carbon in there, it's going to take disproportionately longer to get it all out. Most cans are quietest when they are slightly fouled; however, if you get over 2-3 ounces of carbon in there suppression will be reduced. You will likely be able to tell "by ear" when you get between 4-8 additional ounces of carbon in there. At TBAC we offer our customers one free cleaning at our factory once a year, if the customer covers shipping. We don't do anything special that you can't do, we just are set up for it. Sorry, our bad This obviously won't hurt the can, but it's overkill. Just shake it out and maybe blow it out with an air hose. Thanks for the input. I knew there was an issue when I put my little finger inside and felt a large "bump" as opposed to the remainder of the surface I could feel being just "rough". Today , after cleaning the can and the barrel and getting all my new dope together I finished with a 5 shot group at 500 yards with factory Hornady Match ELD 108 grain pills. I'm not a pro shooter. Far from it but I'll take this all day long.  Attached File |
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