Like Aguas said, I've got myself a 923A2 with the 8.3L. Since I realize I haven't posted a decent picture of it yet...



From when Aguas came up for Findlay (which I still need to post pics from ) and we had a group pic.

Already got all the lighting changed over to LED, got some civi wiper blades on it, and one other necessary upgrade...



The "tactical horn" was shot and one of the trumpets was literally being held in with a zip tie and JB Weld so it needed changed anyway. Figured it needed a horn appropriate for its size.

Need to address getting the idle set and the heater core that sprung a leak in addition to getting an EGT/Boost gauge installed so I can start tweaking the injector pump (which I still also need to do on my HMMWV's 6.5TD ).

Was trying to adjust the headlights last night and found the vertical adjustments on both sides are broken. Fortunately it looks like the headlight bucket is the same as the one the HMMWV uses and I've got an extra set of those in my old hood.

I really need to get it out on a drive. Haven't really done any driving with it since the move. Then again, Uncle Joe's diesel prices aren't really making me enthusiastic to take it out.

The SAM check that I previously mentioned is apparently a check to see if you are excluded from certain government programs/contracts.  Some for good reasons, ie, you work for a .gov agency, or for naughty reasons like not paying your taxes.

I guess everyone has to do it now?  Who knows.

@fp1201
You make me think I need to do more research.  I thought I had a good handle on this, but now it looks like there are more options and things to consider.
Good info tho, Thanx
Just hope I don't have to go to Ohio to pick things up

Edit:  Tried to access the web sites, but they require an AKO account.  Unfortunately they kicked all of us retirees off of AKO back in 2014.

Props to Goodyear on those MTRs.

When an eBay seller has auto offer accept on and you end up with an item you've wanted but didn't really expect to get.

Meat shield armor for top attack protection.

Another 1097A2 up for sale. Not as nice as the other one...

1097A2

I got in touch with the other 1097a2 owner, but he stopped replying after asking about the peeling “undercoating”, I think he sold it. I’ll reach out to this guy, thanks for keeping them coming!

Well that's a shame. I can't stand sellers that can't be bothered to communicate if something is sold or not.

And no problem!

By the way, that undercoating is something all the Marine Corps trucks get. It's generally regarded as more of a hassle than anything since it gets sprayed everywhere underneath, including on things you need to wrench on. If it's peeling, it's helping you out.

That’s kind of what I figured. I’m in the Midwest so rust is a factor for us. A lot of guys started using rubberized coatings for trucks and heavy equipment some years back, as it turns out, that’s a great way for salty water to get trapped and rot the hell out of the chassis, hence my concern about it. I’m sure it’s fine in Arizona but it’s a no-go out here. I’ve been using Fluid Film for years now, with really good luck, but that’s just an oily film.

The search continues!

More AMG 57K4893 Aux Fuel Tank Kits on the GP, one closed at $275 Wed AM (lucky bastard), the others $800-875.  Example coming up on June 23rd:  https://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/5091134?kwtag=p13n-V&h=

You have to remove the red reflector from the curbside wheelhouse corner, cut a 5" diameter hole in the wheelhouse.  The red reflector gets repositioned above the filler inlet by two rivet nuts.

The instructions say to remove the A2/Airlift Bumper, the outer angled braces and the trailer towing reenforcement plate get replaced.  The inner angled braces are eliminated.    I'm trying to figure out if I can swap out the outer angled braces FIRST, then remove the inner braces and trailer towing plate without totally removing the A2 Airlift Bumper.  The Saint did his install while the body was removed (his pics)

If you want to get an approximate online shipping quote from YRC.com, the crate dims are 35x85x21 inches 345lbs, there is a bunch of expanding foam between the segregated packs, the main reason for the length are the two stainless steel supply and return lines.     I think the last kit I bought 2 years ago was about $300 to ship to my door in FL Panhandle from Central PA/Letterkenny Army Depot.      

The first thing I did upon opening the crate was inventory every part going by the segregated packs packing list at the rear of the instruction pages.  The Army in its wisdom writes some shitty installation instructions, they state the part # in the assembly drawings but they don't tell you which segregated pack it is located.   Just the small box containing all the nuts, bolts, zip ties, etc, contains 77 different parts in segregated packs.   I went through the assembly instructions using the parts inventory at the back, to mark on every part the segregated pack number it is located.

  Mine was made in 2016 but I am buying new rubber hosing before install to allow for the longest service life vs installing 10yr old rubber already chemically breaking down.

 One minor change to my installation will be the placement of the tank selector toggle switch, the assembly instructions state to drill out the holes for it at the bottom of the dashboard to the right of the M-series light control box, but my GMVs have the IR Lights and Air Compressor toggle switches there, so I will probably relocated the fuel tank selector above the Air Comp, between the WAIT and Hi Beam LED lights.
Attached File

Attached File

Placement of the Aux Tank Filler Port Cutout:  
Attached File


The kit contains 4ea 1/4-20 automotive trim speed nuts for the Filler Port Mounting Bolts

Underside view of the installed tank with included skid plate:
Attached File

Open AMG 57K4893 Aux Fuel Tank Kit Crate:
Attached File

And original gubmint shipping label showing the LxWxH, Cubics and Weight, for future reference, not all the auctions give the actual dimensions and weight for the shipping crate, save time waiting on GP to answer questions.
Attached File

The crate is 345lbs but I think the heaviest part is the inside bumper bracket and the exterior trailer towing reenforcement plate.  The rest of the parts I removed one at a time from the crate, marked off the inventory sheet then stowed on 60x24x72 industrial shelving in my garage.  Half my 2 car garage is shelving and boxes full of HMMWV/GMV/MilSysGroup.com parts.

Edit:  Shipping was about $280 from PA to FL, right to my driveway through Yellow Freight YRC.com

Would love to have more fuel capacity but that would mean giving up the rear winch mount which I really don't want to do. I'll just have to settle for extra jerry cans.

@SmartDrug

A couple more candidates but both are 2 man trucks.

1123



and one that's still a little bit of a project...

998 with a 4BT Cummins and Allison Transmission

@Aguas how is the battery disconnect switch install going? Mine should be delivered today along with the headlights I ordered.

So i opened it up this morning just to figure out where everything goes and how complete it is.  Ended up starting installation.  Disclaimer, im moving on just a few cylinders after a whirlwind work week in the nasty humid hotness and two nights in a row our 1 1/2 year old hasnt slept well due to an ear infection.  Im beat.  

So its taken me half a day to figure out the kit, and install a few data plates and drill a hole for the switch to install.  Sad bit of progress but ive managed to enjoy myself and sit a little.  

I skipped the written instructions and used the many drawings to figure out where each cable and wire goes, and its all pretty straightforward;  basically the 24v supply from alternator is switched and the 12v supply is switched, all by the same lever.  So instead of the 24v + cable going to positive stud (like on our old trucks before the busbar) and then to the + post of the front battery, a cable goes from the Pos stud to the switch, then a cable on the other side of the switch goes to the + post of the front battery.  

Same with the 14v supply but there is also a dedicated lead from the 14v side of the switch straight to the transmission circuit breaker.  

Also, there is a 15a fuse holder that wires to the 14v side of yhe switch.  It mounts behind the battery box and then is supposed to feed a “12v terminal board” that is also mounted behind the battery box.  I assume factory 4 speed trucks have this board, i do not.  Would allow to tap into 12v power when the switch is on.  For whatever 12v stuff you have i guess.  I dont see a purpose for it on my truck, my 12v trans stuff already has power so ill leave the fuse wire thing out.  

Oh, the kit also has you take the + cable for the slave receptacle and move it to the switch.  Doesnt provide a new cable, which is too bad.  The old one is super damn long.  

Did you replace the 12v lead (68A) to the rear battery that goes to the alternator with the new one or leave it as is? The only difference between mine that is currently on there and the new one is the new one has the braided heat insulation.

I did replace 68a (the new cable says 68b?).  My old one id spliced together due to some salvage dummy’s torch and this one was all shiny and new, and longer.  


I did manage to finish this evening despite starting and stopping all day long.  I didnt put anything through its paces yet, just verified i had no lights when the switch was off and i do when its on.  


Word of caution, the instructions call for trimming the seat base to accommodate the switch.  I followed the measurements to a T and the outcome looks stupid.  

Fit the base yourself and you can make a better looking cut while still clearing the switch.

Good to know on the cable 68. Also I was wondering about cutting that much off the seat base and in the angle they have it. I'll do you you suggested and test fit/trim a little. Take a pic when you can so I can get an idea.

Finally got the 5 ton in her new home next to the V!

I had a bunch of stuff in the 3rd bay of the shop from moving and just finally finished getting it all moved where it needs to be. Still have a long way to go in getting the shop organized and setup.

This was verbatim what the instructions said to do.  the shape and the dimensions.  Same with where the switch was mounted.  For whatever bright reason the dimensions are given in decimal form instead of inch fractions....So when they give you something like "1.13 inches" you round to 1 1/8".  So my stuff maaaaay be like a 1/16th" off tops.  Do yourself a favor and cut a more flowing line.  I would consider cutting around the switch shaft with a semicircle and then maybe even just drilling a hole for the bolthead.  Doesn't even need to be enough to fit a socket, you can just remove the seat to wrench on the thing.  


Their dimensions also placed the "on/off" plate partway under the seatbase.  I realized that first and moved it down before mounting.  There is also an instruction page that shows where to put that long rectangle plate, the one about accessory wiring.  Well i followed that to a T, then the very next page or so they show it in a different spot to allow for mounting of the "this is how the got-dang battery cables hook up, Pri" next to it.  Why the hell there are two ways to do it and the first one doesn't allow all the plates to fit...

Figured id make a simple wiring diagram.  Theres not much to it.  I left the slave receptacle off on the battery diagram, whoops.  Its positive cable just comes off of the positive stud and goes into terminal #2 on the switch.  It will be super long.

Thanks for the pics and simplified diagram. The spot you cut in the seat base isn't too bad. It appears to be making clearance for that one bolt so the top slides down.

Also, I haven't looked at mine, but how hard is it to replace/shorten the slave receptacle lead?

And just to confirm, all of the 12 V accessories go to stud 4?

thats what it has you do.  so three cables/wires on terminal 4, except we don't have a reason for 3480 (the fuse assembly) without having a 12v terminal board behind the battery box.  So without that, one cable and one wire on 4.

The larger cables for all 4 switch terminals come with a slide on boot, so if you put them on the stud last you can slide the boot over top of everything.  


You could shorten the positive slave rec cable I suppose, it would give you more of your storage space back.  Come to think of it I may have the right size lug to put back on the cable and I have a crimper.  But its pretty hard to get everything installed on the switch with zero room for tools, so I won't fool with it unless I have it all apart later on.

I did install the JW headlights last night. Big improvement. New one on the right, older Truck light LED on the left.

Attached File

those headlights look great, aftermarket makes a lot of china copies of the design for a reason.

So the guys we bought these rare and well priced parts from are screwing me right now.  I ordered three items, disconnect kit/fan clutch/turbo IP.  Disconnect shows up with a heater blower motor I didn't order, I told them and they said just keep it.  They drop a clutch in the mail that day and send me a tracking.  Then yesterday I get the IP...

It shows up in a ratty box half full of styrofoam peanuts and something has bent the throttle control shaft from sitting on the shittily packaged package.  I tell the guys right away and they are beside themselves "thats the second one this week!".  They funnel all liability to fedex, and suggest I "bend it back".  

Then I run the part number and the IP comes back to the latest model for 6.2NA humvees.  I verify this in a few places and the bastards say that thats not possible, the pump "was ordered for a m1165a1" but then quickly spend hours back and forth telling me that you can use it for a turbo truck and just to adjust the fuel flow.  I told them they should take it back, they say they can replace it with another turbo pump but its a waste of time cause it will be the same one.  

I just let it go unended for the night and told them I'd call stanadyne themselves and they could prove its the wrong pump.  Meanwhile steven kavenaugh, greg alley, all the big guys telling me it is in fact for a 6.2NA.  

The pump is immaculate save for the bent control rod, which will help sell it I believe if I do get stuck with it.  But i'll still be after a good 6.5td IP and who knows if I'll get all of my $500 back.  

Moral of the story, don't trust dealers words when it comes to getting the right part for an application.  I asked plenty times if it was a pump for a turbo engine and they kept saying it was a newer model that superceded the only PN I could find for turbo pumps (and the PN of the pump I have installed now).  I'll get after them again today and demand they replace with the correct PN or take the pump back.  If not, facebook group blasting time.  Which likely won't get me my money but if I can get back at them I will.  Still be stuck having to sell a pump...

I've spent alooooot of money for 4 years buying parts off of random people and have never been burned.  I was worried a brand new $500 IP was too good to be true.

Had a few minutes and was able to mount the cutoff switch. Seat dimensions are not the greatest but work. Nothing is hooked up behind it but at least it's a start for a Monday.

Attached File

That looks like a H1 aux tank, they became std on 96 and on trucks.

Welcome to the forum!   Are you by chance on the HML?

That Cummins project would be awesome but I don’t have the time to devote to wrapping it up. I wrote about the 1123, will see what he says.

On a side note- who do you all use for insurance? Is it a pain in the backside given that they don’t have a normal VIN?

I have State Farm on my HMMWV and 5 ton currently. At first they had a problem writing up the HMMWV because it doesn't have a standard VIN but they did do it and I've had them since I started this thread. Others have had no problem getting a policy while others have run into issues like I did.

On the 5 ton I had more problems not only because of the VIN but the GVWR. They forced me to get a liability only policy.

This had me look at Hagerty. Hagerty would be about the same cost but I'd have a comprehensive policy on the 5 ton. So I'm going to have the 5 ton insured through Hagerty when the current policy is up but I'm going to keep the HMMWV with State Farm since I've got my home owner's insurance through them and actually get a discount on the HMMWV.

When I had M923's (had two of them) at first used USAA as an Agent for Progressive...took them off the Road (not driving) for about six months, called Progressive to insure them and they said they did not Insure such vehicles, and when I told them THEY had written a Policy via USAA they changed their tune; what I finally ended up with was a "Commercial Vehicle" Policy and it wasn't anymore expensive than a Pick-up Truck, all I was worried about was Liability/Property Damage/Personal Injury....had my fun, now its done, and the itch has started again.  
Given the age I was able to register in NY as "Historic" (which they were >25 years) there isn't GVWR written into the DMV Code, the County Clerk was WTF, but her Supervisor stepped in and put in the computer the GVWR at 17,999 and it accepted it, so Plates and a NYS Title were issued.  

Yes, go to pg 1, go towards the bottom, we have something in common.....you have a HMC4, I have a HMCO.

Dyno thread starter perhaps?

@SmartDrug

I know this is more than you were looking to spend but barring a hard top and hard doors, this is pretty close to a top end truck and Jacob is a stand up guy to deal with. I got my M1165 style C-pillar and GMV rails from him.

I'm not exactly sure what model it is as it's got the REV style air hooks (that doesn't mean much since you can buy those and weld them on) but it doesn't have the geared fan drive the REVs do. That said, TD, 4 speed, and AC is ridin' nice regardless.

yeah i was lookin over that truck this morning.  Being its Jacob's, it could be any model adapted with the newer parts.  But, if so he went a long way to do it with the REV hooks and the fender AC.  I noticed the bumper had shelter carrier mounts so maybe he got it as a cheap stripped 2 door former shelter truck, or maybe the bumper is from another truck.  

Either way it is totally worth the $$$.  If I hadn't built my truck to basically the same specs minus AC and fancy hooks (cosmetic for us) then I'd be after his truck right now.

And I "think" that the improved lift hooks existed for a bit before the geared fan drive setup came to be, but I'm not certain.  Vernon posted a field full of Navy M1116s rusting away in Hawaii and if memory serves they had the improved hooks, but many of the old features like steel rolled top, older armor doors, Rear cargo AC etc.

Hi all, is there a method to research the prices after auction end? Has anyone had success getting one plated in OR? I need to backtrack through the entire thread here, so forgive me if these questions have been answered.

ETA- I did find how to peruse the sold auctions. ]

https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Humvees-2003-AM-General-M1123-HMMWV-2-Door-Soft-Top-w%2FTruck-Body-California/5261705?h=5000%2Cc%7C3468%2Csm%7C0%2Csort%7Cd+asc%2Cmf%7C1&rr=0.04762&hitprm=&pnLink=yes

Glad you found the sold section! Saw your post earlier and was going to respond but it was a busy day at work.

As for registration, I can't remember if it's Oregon or Washington that has issues. I want to say Washington. I had a link for PNW owners but I can't seem to find it and the link to Pacific Northwest Hummer Owners Group is dead.

I read that they passed Senate bill 645 in 2017 that is supposed to make it easier to register military vehicles in the state. Wondering how that has translated to a practical standpoint

It's probably similar to a historical tag here in Ohio where it allows you to drive it to shows/parades/etc. or do test drives but, you're not supposed to daily drive it or use it to tow boats or haul a pallet of concrete.

You can probably get away with all that stuff but you're always going to be at the mercy of that random dick cop that will want to cause you problems. On the other hand, hard for them to prove you're not out on a "test drive" or heading to a trail ride/show.

We had fun today

It always weirds me out a bit seeing big, heavy vehicles completely up on comparably tiny jack stands regardless of how strong they really are.

Someone on one of the 5 ton groups posted a pic of their truck up on stands yesterday, same reaction.



What size tires that use?

@m35ben still working the brake issues?

Also I see the fan, its hot here too and makes working not so much fun.

Yes the shoes are not retracting completely.

Tires are 13 x 18 which is interesting to me because they are measured in inches and there is a bunch of English written on them.





We've already had one owner tell us that you can't support the vehicle like that. He couldn't back up what he was saying though.

All ready for tomorrow! Don't know that it gets much more 'Murica than this!

Admittedly this year's show is smaller than 2019 (didn't do one last year ) but only because I've been slammed getting settled in the new place and, my source was short on merchandise and had to hold some for others. Still over 500 individual shots though. Hopefully next year I'll be able to go bigger!

So when to we get the detailed build thread on the fireworks launcher and after action video with both trucks in the video?

The build of the mortar rack happened several years ago. All hand wired and soldered () with a simple push button wired control panel. Tubes are 1.75" consumer shell diameter HDPE with wooden plugs from Pyroboom. Terminals are just generic spring loaded speaker style terminals. Rack is some 3/4" plywood with 2x4. There's 40 tubes with 48 firing circuits total.

It's getting a little worn (especially after a mouse got into the control box within the last year) and I've wanted to ditch the wired setup for a wireless one. Would love to have a Cobra system but just can't justify the cost. My shows aren't that big.

I was a little disappointed in the show to be honest. Had a number of pieces fail to ignite either because the visco fuse didn't catch or or e-match failure. Ended up having to run even more quickly through the already abbreviated show. Hoping to have more pieces next year and improve fusing.

ETA: Sadly, no video from me. I was busy trying to choreograph everything. Nothing worse than "dead air" in the middle of the show when stuff doesn't ignite. I'll have to see if anyone else took any. I can take a pic of the aftermath tomorrow in the daylight though.