@Ryan_Ruck what is on that plate to the right of the master light switch box?

@stoner63a

Part of the hand throttle upgrade kit.

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Well I found a flaw with my new MVLS.

Apparently every time you turn on the exterior lighting, you must turn on the dash lighting separately by selecting "PANEL BRT" or "PANEL DIM".

But it doesn't stop there... Since the dash lighting turning on was previously tied directly to the stop and service light settings being turned on on the old 3 lever switch, I had tied the reverse light power supply into the dash light circuit as the dash light circuit lights up the shift indicator which is right on the shifter where you can conveniently supply the reverse light switch. Well, without remembering to turn on the dash lights, I don't have reverse lights! I'll just have to retrain myself to turn on the service lights and dash lights at the same time. Should be easy enough.

An added bonus, I will no longer bash my left knee into the levers on ingress/egress.

On the hard top install, I realized I forgot to go back and update the hard top progress I'd made on 6/13,

So here's what I went back and did after my break!

I changed my mind and got the middle piece leveled out with the outer pieces with a straight edge/level. It had more adjustment room than I anticipated. Got it all nice and flat!

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I've got Grade 8 hardware to go back and install now.

Since I had the C-pillar leveled out and aligned, I decided to toss the filler plates in and see how they looked.

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I think I'm going to keep it together as a single unit at this point and seal it up with the SEM that Jake recommended. Then it'll be primer and paint.

After I did that, I took stock of how the C-pillar sat with my rear doors. It's going to need some adjusting on the C-pillar itself with some washers on the rear bolts to cant it forward a little and, it's going to take some of the spacer washers on the hard doors to lift them so I can angle them back a little. I just need to find the dimensions on those hinge washers so I can pick up a few. Probably going to epoxy them to the hinges so I won't lose them taking the doors off.

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I'm also going to have to move my cargo bulkhead back so it lines up with the C-pillar when I have the curtain installed.

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And then yesterday, with the help of my brother, I got the top set on the truck to start locating everything.

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On a positive note, my B-pillar lined up, unlike night9s.

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(But it's going to need some straightening as you can see by that crease. The fit and finish is pretty meh for a factory built piece.)

On a negative note, being as I've got an A-pillar made by the factory, a C-pillar and windshield tabs made by hand, and a top made by an aftermarket company (likely in a Chinese factory), the fitment between everything wasn't that great.

I feel like the radius on the windshield top mounting tabs I bought could match more closely to the radius of the windshield itself to more easily located its mounting location.

The SECO top had a gap at the front between the windshield. I think the outside corners of the top by the door may need adjusted.

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(That white stuff is the Styrofoam that is used to pad it in it's shipping crate. I haven't cleaned it all off yet.)

I think I've figured out that the outer edges are going to need bent forward and out some.

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I'm also going to have to widen the sides at the back where the C-pillar is.

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Going to have to figure out a filler of some sort between the angled C-pillar and curved top. Maybe some really thick weatherstrip...

I've also noticed that the door lip on Jacob's C-pillar is inset maybe a half inch from the door lip on the hard top.

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Can @jake-cutter or @night9 shed any light in pictures on the fitment between their tops and sponsons/C-pillars (and the windshields too!) to figure out how I should be fitting together? I'm thinking I will need to adjust Jacob's C-pillar lip out a little and the top's in a little, and meet somewhere in the middle. That or I'm going to have to come up with some filler piece to tie the two together but, I don't want to do that if I'm going to try to make the top removable at some point.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to be able to make everything mesh but it's going to take a bit of work. If anyone has any thoughts or insights on things I should do, I'm open. I'm in unknown territory here.

Going to finish getting fitment sorted out before I progress to paint.

Did you get the top seal and retainer for the windshield and the seal for the c pillar? Retainer isn't necessary if you glue the seal in place.

First pics. The gap at the front from the front and inside driver's door.

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Next set is the rear gap from the driver's side rear. Passenger side has a little more gap. You can kinda see the seal up in there, it's pretty thick.

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Thanks for the pics and other info you sent Jake!

VERY good price on this for someone looking to do a 4L80 or TD/4L80 swap assuming it's just a matter of some butt splice repairs. New is $1800+ when you can find it.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/926042834191987/permalink/2860385327424385/

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Looks like AMG has finally started posting parts for sale to individuals on it's web page.  Some prices are high but others are down right reasonable on parts that some of the surplus sellers have been wanting your first born for.

https://genuinehumveeparts.com/

Sweet! I know what I'm browsing when I get home!

And made hot.

https://genuinehumveeparts.com/

Had a chance to browse through their whole catalog.

Some prices like the blue poly body mounts and A2 steering wheels are pretty good.

Some prices like the gauges and LED dash indicators are market price. They do have Bosch injectors for the TDs (which *should* be the same for the 6.5NAs I think) at $55/ea which isn't completely terrible since they're ostensibly new and not rebuilt. 4 speed shifters aren't really terrible either considering they're new.

Some prices are just pants on head retarded like the 200A alternators, most of the suspension stuff, and turn signal switches (cancel ring not included).

They do have decent prices on some stuff that's otherwise hard to find like the reverse light switches and A2+ body harnesses.

It's definitely going to get added to the other parts sites I check when looking.

ETA: Adding it to the OP for parts sources

Not exactly a HMMWV (it does have an Ibis Tek bumper! ) but if someone in a non-HMMWV friendly state is looking for a good priced H1...

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1680339495567249/permalink/2643242865943569/

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Those 502 gasser powered trucks are pretty decent!

Losing fuel pressure could be as simple as a clogged tank vent like I had early on owning my truck.

Does anyone know the part number for the 4 tailgate straps that go on the m1025/6's and a place that has them instock? I have the tailgate armor and sound insulation showing up next week and would like to add the straps at the same time.

I just saw these on one of the groups... Hold on a sec.
Wrong straps.

The part number is 12340511, NSN 5340-01-198-3457

Are these still being surplus’d or they dried up?

They're still being sold. In fact, they're getting to the good stuff now () with the newer ECV and REV 1151s and 1165s. Seems there still a lot of 4 speed A2s as well. Lots of nice upgrades over the A0s and A1s.

Jake
Have you found in the manual how the sound insulation is mated with the supplemental armor?  I've looked but can only find where it shows how the armor is mounted.  I've been assuming that it is just stuck between the armor and the tailgate and wheel wells.  I've had the armor and insulation for a few years and wanted to finally get it mounted this summer.

@FKAM, yep its in the Parts Manual Book1 on Page 930 (click here) and shown below. The sound insulation just came in and is a very thin piece of metal with a little adhesive backing. To me its more of a small spacer or shim to prevent rattling I guess. I was expecting it to be the rubber bitumen type like the hatch has. The only thing I need to confirm is part #11 which I think is a rivnut that they call a plusnut.

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@Ryan_Ruck which manual are the tailgate straps in as I cant seem to find that diagram. I need to see the footman loops that go with them. Also does anyone know how those mount such as drill all the way through and nut/bolt, or rivnut or rivet?

9-2320-387-24P, page 520

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Looks like it and the footman loops actually go through the tailgate.

ETA: MacMotors only has 2 in stock but HPG has them. The footman loops - https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/LOOP-FOOTMAN_p_18427.html

Decent price on some NOS turbo doghouses. Seller has some other parts too. He's good to go. I've bought from him before.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1186578574714390/permalink/3223435857695308/


Doghouses sold.

@jake-cutter, thanx,  funny how easy it is to find things in the manual when someone tells you where to look.  My sound insulation for the wheel weels looks different that the diagram but like some of the pictures I've seen, so there are probably several types.  I might have to do some more research.  I plan to use aluminum rivnuts for both the tailgate and the wells.  Make it easier to take apart if needed and if I strip them out, easy enough to replace.  Thought about steel ones but thought if there is any dissimilar metal corrosion the aluminum on the wells would be difficult to fix.

Yep, that's why I like posting here as I can say its in this manual on this page and provide a link and picture. And if I can't find it Ryan usually can. Makes searching so much faster, especially if you are on a tablet or phone or in a hurry under the vehicle. Unlike Steel Soldiers where you get the typical response of check the Tech Manual. Well the issue with that is which version, which one, and what page.

As for the insulation, I don't recall seeing the type in the manual. I typically see just straight pieces with two holes on the bottom edges, is that what you have as I never bought it? I also didn't use rivnuts on the fender wells as it was easy enough to bolt those in but plan on using rivnuts for the tailgate.

Haven't made a lot of progress on my hard top conversion. The weather has either been murderously hot and humid or storms or some combination. This has to probably be one of the most consistently hot and humid Summers I can remember recently. It's been upper 80s to mid 90s with dew points above 70 everyday and even breaking 80 a couple times. Just thoroughly miserable.

We got a slight break in the humidity today so I took the opportunity to get my hard top off since I've gotten all the hardware mounting located (still need to get the C-pillar/tub and C-pillar filler panel holes drilled). Had my brother bring his Jeep with its winch and with the help of a tree, we had an easier time getting the top off than we did putting it on.

Once I got the hard top off, I went ahead and put the weatherstrip on the windshield:

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Still need to take the lightbar and snorkel off to hardwire the wipers and Sikaflex between the windshield frame and tub.

I've also decided I'm not going to paint the inside of the top. It'd be counterintuitive I think. The underside of the top is already in black paint (cheap as it may be) and most everything exposed is going to get covered in black Noico and/or black cab insulation. Don't see much sense in painting it green with expensive paint when it would mostly get covered. Plus has the added benefit of making less work.

Top ready for pressure washing, scuffing, priming, and paint!

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(That white shit is just styrofoam that's stuck to the top.)

Yeah... It's been just a tad humid.

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Yeah, if it isn't going to see a lot of force, I think the aluminum ones are the way to go.

For strength, I am putting steel ones in my windshield frame for the hard top ears though. I'm actually thinking of going back and putting steel ones on the front for the light bar/snorkel while I'm working on the windshield.

@jake-cutter, That is what I have
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I thought it was the correct one based on seeing photos like this.  You can see the insulation piece.
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This is the part number on the insulation I have and it matches the part number in the manual.  So I think the picture in the manual is just a bad drawing made by someone who had never actually seen one.  I've seen lots of screwy drawings in them before.
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@FKAM you are correct, that's the only type I have seen. The manual pic is probably wrong or outdated. I never used the one on the sides, but plan on using it for the tailgate.

Ryan, I'll take some of the rain this way. Been way too hot with a week of over 100 degrees and high humidity. Has me really looking at AC options again. Its even too hot to work in the garage for any length of time. At 2000 last night it was still close to a hundred.

That's why I just can't do Texas as much as I'd like to.

I Remember basic graduation in san antonio in like june.  

Flat black dress shoes and the pavement were burning my feet so badly while standing in formation.  Shew.  


Took my troop seats off today, stuck my blue hibacks on the rear seat bases for a glimpse of how 4 man truck will look.  Im gonna use the flimsy a0 bases and drill new holes for the hibacks.  Ill put some big washers or somesuch on the back to give a little more rigidity to the bases

I had installed closeout panels behind the front seats to keep some water and cold air from being free to whoosh under the b pillar from the back of the truck.  Now i have to remove the driver side one completely and modify the TC side, as it houses the transmission circuit breaker and relay.  

Cant find a camo rear curtain for a 4 man truck for less than about $400 new.  Seems fish to me.  When breton reopens their online store for us civilian plebes, im anxious to see what the cost of a new one is.  It has to be more like 250.

Oh!  I forgot.  I had to buy a whole set of great condition x doors in order to get just rears.  The seller is only 2 hours away and the price is the going rape, er, rate so.  

If anyone needs good camo front x doors, let me know please, id love to sell these asap.  

Just thought I would make our thread followers aware that GoatBoy has instituted a rating system for threads if you didn't know.

I may be biased but I rated this thread "Epic".

It takes 10 votes for a tag to show up.

Stagnant since losing out on the JLTV... Does this possibly mean more of an embrace of private owners?

Also sounds like there could be a future in another CUCV program.

Private Equity Firm Buys Humvee-Maker AM General

July 22, 2020

Humvee-maker AM General has been acquired by KPS Capital Partners, a private equity firm known for buying financially distressed manufacturers, the companies announced Wednesday.

KPS acquired AM General of South Bend, Indiana, from MacAndrews & Forbes in a deal in which terms were not disclosed. AM General has largely been stagnant since losing the competition for the U.S. Army’s Joint Light Tactical Vehicle in 2015 to Oshkosh.

Following its loss in the JLTV competition, the company turned to the international market to continue growing its Humvee business, such as through offering to foreign customers a multipurpose truck with a military-grade rolling chassis from its Humvee design with a la carte add-ons.

KPS Partner Jay Bernstein said in a joint statement that the firm would continue to work with AM General’s chief executive, Andy Hove, as well as its management and employees “to build on this great platform, organically and through acquisition.”

“We intend to leverage the Company’s commitment to research, technology, innovation and new product development, as well as its heritage and iconic brand name,” Bernstein’s statement read.

Hove said the firm would work with KPS “to continue to execute our strategy and invest in our very ambitious growth plan.”

“KPS’ demonstrated commitment to manufacturing excellence, continuous improvement and commitment to invest in technology and innovation will only enhance the Company’s ability to compete in today’s military and commercial marketplace,” Hove said.

“Plenty of industrial companies and investment firms had considered buying AM General,” James Hasik, senior fellow at the Center for Government Contracting at George Mason University, told Defense News July 22. “And plenty of companies have considered teaming with AM General for a bid on a forthcoming production program.”

AM General has continued to try to adapt to the needs of the U.S. military, bringing a robotic combat vehicle to an Army demonstration last year as the service mulls the future of robots on the battlefield. The company also competed for the Squad Multipurpose Equipment Transport vehicle program but was not selected.

Yet, AM General has remained a single-product firm with the Humvee, Hasik noted, and the future of the Humvee is “hard to call.”

Many militaries around the world use Humvees, and the U.S. Army plans to keep some in its fleet, but the U.S. Marine Corps is divesting its stock. According to Hasik, it’s possible that since the Humvee is less expensive than the JLTV and would likely be relegated to noncombat roles, the Army might choose to purchase pickup trucks instead.

“The Humvee was developed in part because the Army’s pickup trucks of the 1970s were unimpressive, but that was 50 years ago, and automotive technology has advanced,” he said. “Today’s pickup trucks are much cheaper to buy and operate, and that’s what the Canadian Army has done.”

While AM General has come up with some novel ideas, “nothing has stuck,” Hasik said. For several years, the company has shown up at trade shows touting a howitzer on a Humvee, like it did at London’s DSEI exposition in late 2019. Still, the U.S. Army is struggling to figure out how it would fit into formations.

The good news for KPS is that the company has a running factory with “efficient, medium-speed production of 4x4 military trucks and a production team who know how to do that,” Hasik said. “That’s an important skill set, as it works better for military programs than enlisting a pickup truck factory, which must make them in the hundreds of thousands to make money.”

AM General has advertised on its website that it could build bigger trucks, and the Army has just issued a request for information for a program to replace all of its heavy trucks, Hasik pointed out. “It could also build small trucks, similar to the Humvee, for future autonomous applications. There’s no guarantee, but we might see lots of those in a few years.”

“All in all, I suspect that KPS didn’t buy AM General just to wring some more efficiencies out of the Humvee program. The folks there probably see some of these upside possibilities as well,” he added.

man i hate to think it will be impossible to keep these old things running in the not so distant future.  We can reengine them and rewire them but what about geared hubs and stuff like that?  

Its literally my favorite motor vehicle, I had hoped to always have one.  

People are still driving 75 year old army jeeps but alot of that is due to reproduction parts.  Hell, they even started reproducing the L134 block for engine rebuilds.  

The part about the USMC makes me wonder if all their unarmored ECV and REV trucks will hit the auctions.  Since the army turned its back on us, i hope the USMC comes through.  


$$$$$IF ANYONE IN THE THREAD HAS A NEW OR GREAT CONDITION CAMO 4 MAN CURTAIN THEY WANT TO GET RID OF, I NEED ONE!$$$$$

Also got two great condition camo front X doors for sale, cluttering up the garage.  

@Aguas the cheapest place I've seen that curtain in Mac Motors for $267 for part 12342475-6. Everyone else is $400 plus. Mac Motors has two but seem to sell out.

Ryan messaged me with a heads up, i was asleep but Happened to wake up randomly and checked the phone.  I got an order in.  Thanks, guys!

Employees, Officials Are Upbeat About Sale Of AM General

July 22, 2020



AM General employees and local officials are hopeful that one of the region’s most iconic brands — the Humvee — will continue to be made here for many years to come.

They believe the chances of that happening were increased Wednesday with news that a private equity firm called KPS Capital Partners had signed an agreement to buy AM General from an affiliate of MacAndrews & Forbes Inc.

Terms of the transaction were not disclosed, but KPS Capital indicated it hopes to close on the deal in the third or fourth quarter of the year.

Reports first surfaced in October 2018 that the current owners of the South Bend-based company were looking to sell the business. The reports came amidst contract talks with union workers at the Mishawaka assembly plant.

Though members of UAW Local 5 have long since worked out a new contract with the company, employees were still concerned about the future prospects of the business.

“I think it’s going to be good for the membership,” said Don Brady, chair for the AM General unit of United Auto Workers Local 5. “I’ve talked to people here and the international. From what we read about KPS, it sounds like a company with a good reputation of working with unions.”

In addition, KPS Capital seems to have the resources and the connections to help grow the business, said Brady, adding that the Mishawaka assembly plant has been experiencing intermittent layoffs for about a year.

AM General has been able to remain relatively busy building new Humvees for foreign allies and modernizing Humvees used by the U.S. military for the past few years.

But while aiming to compete for the Next Generation Combat Vehicle in 2022, the company has had mixed success in its efforts to break away from its reliance on Humvee production.

The company sold its commercial manufacturing plant in 2017 to SF Motors — now known as Seres Automotive — after its two-year contract with Mercedes-Benz ended, and in 2015, it lost a $6.7 billion contract for the Army’s next generation of armored trucks to competitor Oshkosh Defense.

Similar to the sentiments expressed by Brady, a salaried employee at AM General also expressed hope in the new partnership since KPS Capital seems to have the size and the resources needed to help the business branch out and compete for future military vehicles.

Workers also expressed relief the business was bought by a private equity firm rather than another defense contractor as was previously rumored a couple of years ago. Another defense contractor might have purchased AM General and simply allowed it to wither away.

Mishawaka Mayor Dave Wood and Jeff Rea, president and CEO of the South Bend Regional Chamber of Commerce, said they were also encouraged that KPS Capital has a sizable portfolio of manufacturing facilities and a reputation for looking for growth opportunities for those businesses.

In return, KPS is gaining a brand with a worldwide reputation for quality and endurance as well as a workforce that takes a lot of pride in what they produce, Wood said. “The workforce is what should give them the most confidence.”

Averaging just over 800 employees, AM General is still one of the area’s largest manufacturers, so it’s important to preserve and possibly grow those jobs as well as the tax base that helps support the community, Rea said.

“So far, everything I’ve heard so far seems very positive,” said Rea, adding that AM General also has a reputation as a civic benefactor and provides a source of pride by producing one of the best known brands in the world.

Officials also expressed interest in working with KPS to help AM General grow in the future.

“AM General has continued South Bend’s proud history of advanced manufacturing for many decades and has remained committed to our community and providing good-paying jobs for our residents,” said South Bend Mayor James Mueller. “I am excited for this next chapter and will work closely with AM General’s leadership to support further growth and quality jobs in our region.”

Beyond operations in South Bend and Mishawaka, AM General also has a manufacturing operation in Ohio and a technical engineering center in Michigan.

In a release, KPS indicated it was looking forward to the partnership.

"We are excited to acquire AM General, a legendary American company and world leader in the design, engineering, manufacturing and support of light tactical and specialty vehicles,” Jay Bernstein, a partner of KPS, said.

“We look forward to working with Chief Executive Officer Andy Hove, the company's management team, and all of AM General's employees to build on this great platform, organically and through acquisition,” Bernstein continued. “We intend to leverage the company's commitment to research, technology, innovation and new product development, as well as its heritage and iconic brand name.

“KPS' demonstrated commitment to manufacturing excellence, continuous improvement and commitment to invest in technology and innovation will only enhance the company's ability to compete in today's military and commercial marketplace,” Hove said in the release.

That is what workers are hoping for.

“It gives a ray of hope that this could mean good things for the future,” Brady said. “It says something to buy us during a pandemic.”

Anybody have the diagram showing what parts are required to install the Ibis Tek knockout windshield into a regular hardtop (m1025) or softtop (m998) windshield frame?

Finally got all the hood upgrades done.  Two years of parts collecting I decided it was time to do this part of all the projects I'd working on.

Put all the rubber air dams on (it was missing all of them), hood reinforcement panels, armored vents and pioneer tool rack.

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Decided to start doing the sand painting on some of the hard to get to parts now instead of waiting for later.  Figured I'd make a mess of things trying to paint later in those areas if I didn't and they are a PITA to remove again.  It already has a frankenstein paint job anyway.

@jake-cutter, have you started the supplemental armor install on your tailgate?

No the tailgate piece I received was really rusty on the side with the peel and stick insulation. Lots of piting, scaley rust and so many pin hole rust spots that went complete through for me. I guess water gets trapped
Going to order a new one from Mac Motors as they now have them in stock.

Still trying to get the Jack rails that are listed on Facebook, but no response from the seller. So I will probably start looking for another set to buy soon.

I checked through all my docs and didn't see anything on it unfortunately. Might be a good question for one of the FB groups. I know there's a couple folks with them, I just can't recall any specific people offhand.

@FKAM is that one of Greg's hood tool kits? Looks good! That's next on my short list for sure.

I've been on call this week and had a bunch of stuff going on but, I had wanted to post a small hardtop update.

Got the top painted on Sunday with some of my original Sherwin Williams CARC that is going on, I think 3 years old, and was "expired" when I got most of it.

I can report it is still good! Sprayed fine and 3 days later looks 100% normal.

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Next will be getting the C-pillar taken care of and painted.

I didn't know at the time of buying it from Jacob, and he didn't offer, but apparently he'll prime his C-pillars. If I had known, I certainly would have opted for it. As it is, it's got a good bit of surface rust. I can sand most of it off but there's still a lot down in some welds and grind marks. If anyone gets one from him, I strongly recommend you have him prime it.

Decided I'm going to sand what I can and then treat the rest of the rust with rust converter. Hopefully get that done weather permitting.

Barring that, next week the weather might work out. If so I'm going to try and go on a painting blitz and get everything I can painted, at least a base green, including my doors and half doors.

Ryan, I have had good luck sandblasting the seem, welds, and hard to reach areas with the Harbor Fright gun type baster and the kit type. The gun type is probably easier.

I'm going to show that pic to my wife- she's from the Granville area and misses some of the Ohio scenery/environment.  She does like the WA lack of snakes and bugs, and 80° is easy when the humidity is 20% here.  

I would gladly change places!

How can it be so consistently humid and still be in a drought? It doesn't make sense...

Of course now it's pouring buckets.

I honestly thought about a media blaster but thought it might take longer with how many pieces I have to do (D-pillars and rail tabs) cleanup and the rust converter is going to, I think, be easier on the X-doors where the spot rust is. Blasting is probably the better option though. If I had some place sheltered to keep work pieces I probably would have gone that route.

It wouldn't be a good fit for this use but I've been wanting to pick up one of those pressure washer sand blaster attachments to clean up my exhaust stack.

Well, no offense but I doubt you'd be as good a wife as I have now.  

The aluminum mounting plate is his.  I ordered the clamps from a fire apparatus supply company.  He didn't have it in a kit form when I got it from him.

I need to post a picture of it on SS and credit him.  Need to throw any and all business possible towards him to keep him in business and us supplied with the quality he produces.

Ryan, I second Jake's sandblasting comment.  I've been sandblasting everything for years.  I follow up with a rust encapsulating primer and have had excellent results.  Paint always sticks good and lasts and no rust trough after.  But I use a larger 10 gal capacity tank and large compressor.  Makes things go fast and etches nicely.

I was hoping you had installed yours.  I've come up with some issues that I thought you might have solved.  I can imagine that they would be susceptible to rusting.  They are no where near as thick as the wheel well plates.  They actual could stop something from penetrating the sides.  The tailgate piece is barley 1/16 thick and is lighter than a car body panel "Supplemental Armor??".  So I can see why it rusts easily with what I've found in the way it mounts.

I can't find anywhere in the manual that talks about how to actually mount these.  Everything is about removing/installing factory mounted ones.  So I laid it out on the tailgate and started to look it over and plan things out and this is what I found that I don't like and need to figure out.

I laid the panel down with the top edge butted up against the top reinforcement channel and then center punched the holes.  Three of the bottom holes came out right on the edge of where the aluminum bends inward.  Not a good place to put a rivnut.
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The only solution I have figured out to this is to mount the plate lower.  But that opens up the areas on the top to letting water in and closing off the areas below that would let water out.  Not good.

The other area of concern is the top corners and side ends.  They have a large gap and the angle cutout is unsupported underneath which will rattle.  I'm thinking of making a support under those areas and drilling a extra hole and rivnut.
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The final issue is water intrusion.  I'm debating just packing all the edges with seam sealer.  Only issue is, if water still manages to get in some way I don't foresee it will be trapped and stay a long time resulting in rust.

I'm open to any ideas anyone has.  I want to think this out a little.  I make my biggest mistakes when I get in a rush.

I gave into peer pressure and picked up the first one from HF along with a 50lb bag of soda medium. Guess we'll see how it works out...

He still selling them for $400?

Was going to ask where you sourced the Handleloks from. I've got a few that came with my 1st gen kit but most need new straps.

I don't know what he is selling them for these days.  I bought mine from him over a year ago.  I haven't talked to him for a while.  Been trying to leave him alone while he moves his operation to Texas and not pester him.  But I've noticed he is starting to show up on SS a little.

I don't remember where I sourced the Handleloks.  Bought them over a year ago too.  I do remember tho that they sold replacement straps too.  I'll try to look and see if I can figure where I got them.

PAC Tool is the original manufacturer for the HandleLok 1004, the most commonly seen tool brackets on the hood pioneer tool trays, black polymer body with yellow locking arms.  They also recently started making the HandleLok 1004 in molded Coyote Tan polymer but that wouldn't be correct for GMVs:
https://pactoolmounts.com/product/handlelok-1004-2/
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Your Pioneer Tool Tray will run you $400-500 then ad another $400 for the Handlelok 1004s.

Yeah, I probably will wait until next year for the tool kit. I've just got so much I really need to get done before that like my rocker protectors and underbody kit.

Have you come up with any ideas on security for the tools or were you even planning on anything?

That's pretty cool. Didn't know that.

Yeah, I think I've got all 8 of the Handleloks I need currently from that Gen 1 kit I bought. They were a bit faded but some flat black rattle can cleaned them up. Most of the straps are good but a couple were shot.