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KY, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2020 5:19:14 AM EDT
[#1]
On the subject of Warns, i have an opportunity to grab a 9000lb (i believe) winch for cheap. Ive already got the frame extensions and winch plate mounted so thats done.
But id have to make power cables and get a remote; i see that there are wiring kits and they include harness parts with 2 and 3 conductor amphenol connectors....but i have no idea if theyre the right kits for this winch. It would be nice to operate from the driver seat as well as a remote, or at a minimum, the driver seat. There is a manual directional control though, so i suppose youre winching in one direction until you get out and change it. Would make a switch/switch harness very simple to make, it would only have to switch “on/off” |
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Posted: 4/2/2020 6:57:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stoner63a]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas: On the subject of Warns, i have an opportunity to grab a 9000lb (i believe) winch for cheap. Ive already got the frame extensions and winch plate mounted so thats done. But id have to make power cables and get a remote; i see that there are wiring kits and they include harness parts with 2 and 3 conductor amphenol connectors....but i have no idea if theyre the right kits for this winch. It would be nice to operate from the driver seat as well as a remote, or at a minimum, the driver seat. There is a manual directional control though, so i suppose youre winching in one direction until you get out and change it. Would make a switch/switch harness very simple to make, it would only have to switch "on/off" Doesn't that OLI "potted" Upgrade kit surround the positive cable, senses the field, acts as an overload prevention circuit? I'm looking at that upgrade kit for one of my GMV, to use the panel mount to the cab, hardware directly to it then using the male Amphenol to convert a black Warn winch control to fit the Amphenol panel connector instead of the civilian 3 pin.  Attached File Attached FileThe 1994 M1097A1 is now running, took longer than I thought to purge the air from the fuel injection. I need to replace the improved, locking-style parking brake handle, the hood prop rod bracket and fix the power steering. This truck has a secondary 12v 45amp alternator with umbilical that I assume powered a welder, it still has a wire attached to the throttle pedal to allow the welder to increase RPM during use.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 7:45:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#3]
I know I should be taking advantage of the nice weather to get some hard work done on the truck but with the uptick in workload because of how the pandemic is changing our customers' operations, I was a bit lazy today.
Only did the new tie rod end boots and adjusted the rod ends so the steering system was actually straight in relation to the tires, which the alignment shop had off so they could align the tires. The new Energy Suspension (9.13119G) poly boots fit perfect!  Attached FileWithout upsetting the tires, I got the steering components mostly straightened out and then got the tie rods back in. Took the truck for a short spin and it actually handles noticeably better! No longer feels like it's fighting itself. Once I get some of the shims back in up front (probably tomorrow) I'm going to take it back to the shop and have them fine tune it with the mention the steering be kept 100% straight in the process. Also going to tell them to make sure the rod end buckles are faced the right direction so they don't rub my wheels at lock like before.  Did one other tiny upgrade. Found there's an insulation pad that fits above the driver's side footwell where the washer reservoir, TDM, and Cadillac valve are.  Attached FileThat white crap is mold release that scrubs right off. Probably doesn't do a ton but they're only $20. There's supposed to be some brackets to hold it down but I'm not doing all that. Just going to use some 3M Extreme double sided tape. |
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Posted: 4/5/2020 1:22:10 AM EDT
[#4]
Forgot to mention that I had also picked up a complete set of the blue poly body mounts from my buddy that sold his truck. Came with a set of the washers too. Going to pull the body mounts I put in before the swap and put those in instead.
Aguas used those when he did his drivetrain swap and I had a chance to finally see his truck in person recently. The blue poly body mounts really don't deform at all, unlike the older rubber ones. Probably due to the need to hold up to all the added armor. Between that and the extra washers, it should result in a bit more lift. Hopefully I won't need longer body bolts. I think I got those on the long side when I did the body mounts before the swap. |
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Posted: 4/5/2020 5:51:19 PM EDT
[#5]
Got a new HMMWV specific, AM General published Component Testing And Troubleshooting Guide someone posted to one of the HMMWV groups. Looks like a nice addition to the library!
I rehosted it on my Google Drive account. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FlfqRJ3y--zqIzx_VJ6G-SfYM1tCb7Va |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 6:14:36 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Got a new HMMWV specific, AM General published Component Testing And Troubleshooting Guide someone posted to one of the HMMWV groups. Looks like a nice addition to the library! I rehosted it on my Google Drive account. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FlfqRJ3y--zqIzx_VJ6G-SfYM1tCb7Va Thanks, that's a really good resource. |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 7:27:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Did one other tiny upgrade. Found there's an insulation pad that fits above the driver's side footwell where the washer reservoir, TDM, and Cadillac valve are. That white crap is mold release that scrubs right off. Probably doesn't do a ton but they're only $20. There's supposed to be some brackets to hold it down but I'm not doing all that. Just going to use some 3M Extreme double sided tape. Ryan, do you have a link to the page that shows the brackets? Would be interesting to see where it ties in. |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 11:10:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By cda97: Thanks, that's a really good resource. He said he's got one for A2 trucks as well but had to find it. If he does and posts it, I'll rehost that as well. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Ryan, do you have a link to the page that shows the brackets? Would be interesting to see where it ties in. They're shown in the 9-2320-280-24P-1, page 804 of 1146. The reason I wasn't going to mess with them is it looks like you can't find them anywhere.  They're part 12446858, NSN 5340014790211. #38 below. Attached File |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 12:43:15 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: The reason I wasn't going to mess with them is it looks like you can't find them anywhere. They're part 12446858, NSN 5340014790211. #38 below.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-04-06_11-08-08_jpg-1353889.JPG Eastern Surplus has them for $3.00. Not sure how they attach as the bolt holes don't match up. |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 12:52:22 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Eastern Surplus has them for $3.00. Not sure how they attach as the bolt holes don't match up. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: The reason I wasn't going to mess with them is it looks like you can't find them anywhere. They're part 12446858, NSN 5340014790211. #38 below.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/102941/2020-04-06_11-08-08_jpg-1353889.JPG Eastern Surplus has them for $3.00. Not sure how they attach as the bolt holes don't match up. Good find! I may pick some up. I don't have the TM in front of me but I believe they just rivet in and #39 is the rivet. |
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Posted: 4/6/2020 1:12:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jake-cutter]
[#11]
Yep, from your pic it looks like a rivet. Hard to tell from my phone. Was hoping it used the bolt that is right there.
I went ahead and ordered the insulation as that is one area that isn't really covered well. Will debate the brackets but looks like I could bend an L bracket to do the same thing and use the bolt that is holding the control box. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/8/2020 5:30:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Yep, from your pic it looks like a rivet. Hard to tell from my phone. Was hoping it used the bolt that is right there. I went ahead and ordered the insulation as that is one area that isn't really covered well. Will debate the brackets but looks like I could bend an L bracket to do the same thing and use the bolt that is holding the control box. Too bad its eastern that has them. Im surprised they arent $150 each. All quiet on this front. Been driving the truck alot but i need to try out some antifreeze balancing in the tires and also get to a few misc maintenance things. Kinda holding out for the new garage to do it all in. The one ive been mentioning for like 2 years. The one that the footers are finally going in today weeeeeeeeee. |
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Posted: 4/15/2020 9:26:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#13]
Picked up a new toy to use with my truck!
  Attached File Attached FileIt's an AcuTemp HemaCool Medical Refrigerator/Freezer! Runs off 100-240 VAC or 12-24 VDC and has 2 18 amp hour 12 volt batteries. Says it lasts 24 hours on batteries alone on cool or 8 on freeze. Pretty much the ultimate in mobile refrigeration! Came with both AC and DC cords. DC cord looks unused. I'm going to put one of those gray QDs like I've got on my "modular" slave cable I built so I can hook it to the slave port on my truck.  Attached FileThing is pretty big at 39"x23"x23" and weighs about 140lbs empty. Actually found the service and operator manuals on SS of all places. Had to drive about 80 miles to get it but, got it for the excellent price of $200 and no shipping. Most on eBay are $500+shipping. For reference, an ARB mobile fridge runs about $1,000! It powers up and functions, mostly. When these are surplussed they remove the refrigerant but the seller plugged it in and said it cooled it a little. So it'll need a refrigerant charge (which isn't mentioned how to do in the service manual but apparently uses common R134a) and needs new 18ah batteries (which are common and I can get through work). The other nice thing is that the company that makes these is right up in Dayton, OH so support should be easy to get. Might see if I can take it to them to get the refrigerant charged if I need to. |
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Posted: 4/16/2020 12:14:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#14]
 I guess it doesn't need refrigerant after all!  Attached FileTalk about lucky! It even had this on the lid.  Attached FileETA: Made it all the way down to proper freeze temp of -22C! Temp status LED went green. Took just about 2 hours to cool down completely to that.  Also switched it over to "cool" and saw it indicate the "HEAT ON" status that it was applying heat to the payload area to rapidly get it above freezing to the refrigeration temp range (which it's designed to do in freezing environments). This is definitely a pretty cool piece of gear! Still need to replace the batteries. They took zero charge the whole time it was plugged in. |
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Posted: 4/16/2020 5:53:42 PM EDT
[#15]
That was a good score. I have a big cooler in the bed of mine that I use, but a refrigerated unit like that would serve a lot of purposes especially when the power is out.
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Posted: 4/16/2020 7:09:54 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: That was a good score. I have a big cooler in the bed of mine that I use, but a refrigerated unit like that would serve a lot of purposes especially when the power is out. Yeah I've got my Pelican cooler I keep in the bed but I've had my eye on one of these HemaCool units for a while.
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Posted: 4/18/2020 11:13:31 PM EDT
[#17]
Got my cable made so I can now hook it to my slave port!
 Attached FileAnd if anyone was curious about the insides...  Attached FileThe guts. They're normally covered with a plastic topper I have off:  Attached FilePower pack out for new batteries:  Attached FileFull battery!  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/18/2020 11:50:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cda97]
[#18]
The third pic with the wire harness tied off to the metal structure makes me cringe!
Edit: If that's your Humvee Ryan let me know so I can help you protect those wire harnesses. |
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Posted: 4/18/2020 11:59:39 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cda97: The third pic with the wire harness tied off to the metal structure makes me cringe! Edit: If that's your Humvee Ryan let me know so I can help you protect those wire harnesses. LOL! That's just inside the HemaCool unit where all the refrigeration and control equipment is. |
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Posted: 4/20/2020 1:15:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cda97]
[#20]
The corona virus doesn't seem to have an effect on Humvee sales, been watching them for a couple months now and there is no shortage of people still bidding on them.
I hate being a responsible person/husband/dad through all this as I take a 25% pay cut even though I could easily buy one in cash right now but the future looks bleak for the airlines until we start flying again. I've been using a lot of restraint and I'm sad that a lot of good deals keep passing me by, oh well, my time will come. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 4/20/2020 6:13:48 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cda97: The corona virus doesn't seem to have an effect on Humvee sales, been watching them for a couple months now and there is no shortage of people still bidding on them. I hate being a responsible person/husband/dad through all this as I take a 25% pay cut even though I could easily buy one in cash right now but the future looks bleak for the airlines until we start flying again. I've been using a lot of restraint and I'm sad that a lot of good deals keep passing me by, oh well, my time will come. Good thing is, its the golden age of humvees. These 4 speed trucks werent so available even one year ago. A2 trucks showing up in even noob hands, must mean there are alot to be had now. |
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Posted: 4/20/2020 7:42:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cda97: The corona virus doesn't seem to have an effect on Humvee sales, been watching them for a couple months now and there is no shortage of people still bidding on them. I hate being a responsible person/husband/dad through all this as I take a 25% pay cut even though I could easily buy one in cash right now but the future looks bleak for the airlines until we start flying again. I've been using a lot of restraint and I'm sad that a lot of good deals keep passing me by, oh well, my time will come. I'm going to be posting the 1994 M1097A1 up for sale soon, I shouldn't be too far from you, in Santa Rosa County, FL. With the quarantine I haven't had my friends over to move the heavy stuff for me over 12lbs. I am hoping to sell the M1097A1 to get enough for a 25x30 concrete slab and metal building kit, I can't fit both the GMV and Toyota FJ in my 2 car garage. |
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Posted: 4/21/2020 6:09:35 PM EDT
[#23]
Well, I finally made a large purchase which I haven't done in awhile. I bought a Mile Marker Wince new in crate that popped up on ebay (they are having 5% in cashback bucks too). Will be here in a week from the other side of the state. Hoping this will pull the IBIS Tek bumper in a few inches to be more flush. Then I can move the electric Warn 6k to the rear once I figure that out (one project at a time).
 Attached File |
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Posted: 4/21/2020 9:14:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Well, I finally made a large purchase which I haven't done in awhile. I bought a Mile Marker Wince new in crate that popped up on ebay (they are having 5% in cashback bucks too). Will be here in a week from the other side of the state. Hoping this will pull the IBIS Tek bumper in a few inches to be more flush. Then I can move the electric Warn 6k to the rear once I figure that out (one project at a time). https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/Winch_jpg-1379451.JPG Just an FYI but I've got the rear electric winch setup in my truck if you need any pics. It uses the standard A2 front plate with special mounts that replace the inner bumper mounts and a mount for the roller fairlead.  Attached File Attached FileI got these from Greg a loooong time ago. No idea about availability of them now. If you need any more pictures just let me know. |
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Posted: 4/26/2020 9:56:48 PM EDT
[#25]
Are the M1113/M1114 and A2 Engine Harnesses the same pinout at the Smart Start Box plug? The under 299,999 serial number engine I got came with a slightly damaged Engine Harness, the two wires with lugs to the Alternator (Sense and AC) got separated from the main harness and the main cannon plug to the Smart Start Box is damaged.
I've got a replacement SSB cannon plug coming, but I need to make sure the pinout is the same so I can solder the Alternator wires to the correct wires on the main harness, that I have already got exposed and insulation stripped away. Then on the very end branch of the Turbo Engine Harness is a lug for the Starter and Bus Bar. I Ass/U/Me the Bus Bar lug bolts to the tunnel inside lug of the bus bar in battery box? A couple feet of mesh sheathing, a foot of yellow 2" ID shrink wrap and some mylar insulation wrap and she'll look like new. Then order a set of exhaust manifold heads I can have cerakoted in Black to keep the rust away as long as possible. Get a rebuild for the Fan Clutch, a new fan blade, and a new 3 pin fitting for the 200amp Alternator and the short block should be ready to drop into the 1995 CIF GMV. Then I'll take the 6.5l NA and 4L80E to offer with the 1994 M1097A1 truck to clear it out. |
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Posted: 4/28/2020 1:10:27 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stoner63a: Are the M1113/M1114 and A2 Engine Harnesses the same pinout at the Smart Start Box plug? The under 299,999 serial number engine I got came with a slightly damaged Engine Harness, the two wires with lugs to the Alternator (Sense and AC) got separated from the main harness and the main cannon plug to the Smart Start Box is damaged. I believe so. I used my 6.2 harness on my 6.5TD (with some of the leads extended) with no issue for some troubleshooting. I think the differences come in how the various branches interconnect after the Cannon plug. |
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Posted: 4/28/2020 1:11:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#27]
If anyone is looking to do an ECV conversion, I don't think I've seen any cheaper hoods since Findlay last year. Has the butterfly bracket needed for mounting it. Still needs the nose though.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1186578574714390/permalink/3010300949008801/?sale_post_id=3010300949008801  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/28/2020 7:57:26 PM EDT
[#28]
Must be Spring Cleaning time!
If anyone wants a brand new, authentic M1165 complete rear wall setup... https://www.facebook.com/groups/1614498551974258/permalink/2888421427915291/?sale_post_id=2888421427915291  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/29/2020 12:16:38 AM EDT
[#29]
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Posted: 4/30/2020 7:45:02 PM EDT
[#30]
Winch arrived today. Was alot more pieces than I was expecting. Usually with these projects I have to hunt down a couple of parts or bolts. This time looks like everything is there down to extra shackes decals, nuts and bolts for the control arms, and straps. Hopefully Saturday I can get the old winch off and maybe start on this one. Just flipping through the manual looks easy but time consuming.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/3/2020 4:31:13 PM EDT
[#31]
Looks like AMG is finally going to cave and start selling HMMWV parts direct: https://www.amgeneral.com/commercial-parts/
Be interesting to see what this means for places like HPG, MM, and Kascar. |
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Posted: 5/3/2020 6:38:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Hope that drives parts prices down and open up more accessories that are hard to find.
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Posted: 5/3/2020 6:55:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Hope that drives parts prices down and open up more accessories that are hard to find. That's a big one... Will Smart Start boxes become easier to find and cheaper? X-doors? A2 body harnesses? |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:21:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: fp1201]
[#34]
Just saw this on FB and thought I'd post it here:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216480229447545/ Basic M996 that went through re-set in 2006, with the de-tuned 6.5 it's about as basic as they get, also looks like there's another one in the pictures. If you buy it, throw the dog a bone.  Found a second one that's really spiffy: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/697325934360502/ |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 9:28:39 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Winch arrived today. Was alot more pieces than I was expecting. Usually with these projects I have to hunt down a couple of parts or bolts. This time looks like everything is there down to extra shackes decals, nuts and bolts for the control arms, and straps. Hopefully Saturday I can get the old winch off and maybe start on this one. Just flipping through the manual looks easy but time consuming. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200430_182921_jpg-1394902.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200430_183013_jpg-1394903.JPG I didn't read through about you Winch Post, but I can tell you a few things: Mile Marker stopped producing the 24Volt model, but it uses the same motor as the 12V version, and IIRC "Wilson Electric" makes replacement motors in 24V for that winch. (i've used them in years past for Fisher Snow Plows mounted to HMMWV's When the Electric Winch was discontinued, they came out with a kit that ran off the Power Steering pump, and generally speaking it worked well...problem is the only Soldiers trained for Vehicle Recovery were Wrecker Operators, and GI's would somehow manage to fuck them up, so they were told not to use the winch (because they'd fuck things up and it was very expensive for the Unit to have replaced)
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Posted: 5/6/2020 11:22:39 PM EDT
[#36]
It's been 3 years since I last changed tires on wheels. Forgot how much fun it is, especially with 24 bolts.
 But, I did eventually get them all broken down. I can confirm that the tree and strap method works just fine for getting the runflats out! I've got the runflat tool that came with the tool kit I bought but I felt like the tree/strap way would be a little quicker than figuring out use of the tool with time being of the essence. Would have been handy to have an engine lift though to not just pull the runflats but get the wheel backs out of the runflats a little more quickly. For the wheel faces, I didn't want to just rattle can them and the nearby places that did powdercoating I reached out to never got back with me so I decided I'm going to try something a little different and use something I've got experience with: Alumahyde! In matte black specifically. I've had good luck using it on a number of firearms so I'm eager to see how it performs in this application. Just going to have to give it 10 days to cure but that'll give me a chance to get some shims added back in to the front before putting the new tires on and then getting the truck realigned after getting the new tie rod end boots. I've got new O-rings I picked up a while ago from Trail Worthy Fab. Haven't used theirs before so looking forward to trying those out too. When it comes time for reassembly, I think I'm going to add some RV antifreeze to the insides of the tires in addition to the Centramatics. I've got some laying around from winterizing my pressure washer and it's just going to sit around for another year otherwise. Also going to try the bottle jack method of getting the runflats in to see how that works out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fp1201: Just saw this on FB and thought I'd post it here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216480229447545/ Basic M996 that went through re-set in 2006, with the de-tuned 6.5 it's about as basic as they get, also looks like there's another one in the pictures. If you buy it, throw the dog a bone. Found a second one that's really spiffy: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/697325934360502/ Rob Rodriguez selling that first one is a reliable seller. You can buy from him with confidence. Don't know the seller of the second one. |
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Posted: 5/6/2020 11:48:49 PM EDT
[#37]
Oh, and almost forgot to share this TM I found. It's got field fixes for damage. It's an older TM and it applies to pretty much every wheeled vehicle in the military inventory in the late 80s but it's got some useful content.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zWAqUX5HfW_4FNHabHVpb68WITYMPh1v |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2020 5:37:44 AM EDT
[#38]
The TWF o rings worked fine for me, theyve been in my wheels for a year or so.
Theyre undersized (i bet theyre for 16” wheels) so i stretch them over the wheel half and let them sit for 10 minutes before assembly. This is a bit too much so it takes a minute or two for it to shrink to fit in the groove. I imagine you can run out of time if it takes too long to sandwich the wheel face over the ring. But i had instances where it took me ages to get 4 nuts tight on the wheel and i never had to redo any rings so. And i was turning the nuts by hand tools. Shew. Never again. |
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Posted: 5/8/2020 4:00:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Rear Mile Marker winches up for sale. Seller is GTG.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/523134644529729/permalink/1537217316454785/?sale_post_id=1537217316454785  Attached FileQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas: The TWF o rings worked fine for me, theyve been in my wheels for a year or so. Theyre undersized (i bet theyre for 16” wheels) so i stretch them over the wheel half and let them sit for 10 minutes before assembly. This is a bit too much so it takes a minute or two for it to shrink to fit in the groove. I imagine you can run out of time if it takes too long to sandwich the wheel face over the ring. But i had instances where it took me ages to get 4 nuts tight on the wheel and i never had to redo any rings so. And i was turning the nuts by hand tools. Shew. Never again. Good tip! 
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Posted: 5/10/2020 7:50:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jake-cutter]
[#40]
Started working on installing the mile marker winch. Before I start tightening things up, can anyone confirm the two black mounting brackets are on the correct side? They can be flipped and the holes on the front align differently. Just want to be sure before I continue.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 1:31:33 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Started working on installing the mile marker winch. Before I start tightening things up, can anyone confirm the two black mounting brackets are on the correct side? They can be flipped and the holes on the front align differently. Just want to be sure before I continue. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200510_184618_jpg-1410359.JPG My GMV 2A11C is showing the horizontal ribs on the backside as being at the top and center of the brackets. |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 2:38:25 PM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 5/16/2020 7:49:28 PM EDT
[#43]
Winch is mounted but not hooked up. Putting the ibis Tek bumper back on took alot of time aligning it to fit and it's still not great. Not sure why they designed it to sit above the opening on the winch plate. Biggest problem is it doesn't allow the hood to open all the way. Hits the bars on the blinkers.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 8:02:48 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Winch is mounted but not hooked up. Putting the ibis Tek bumper back on took alot of time aligning it to fit and it's still not great. Not sure why they designed it to sit above the opening on the winch plate. Biggest problem is it doesn't allow the hood to open all the way. Hits the bars on the blinkers. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200516_184317_jpg-1419076.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200516_184323_jpg-1419074.JPG I’m not a hmmwv guy but that certainly does not look right. Looks like your winch cable will rub against metal on the mount and you will bust a cable in no time |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 8:19:45 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chrishag: I’m not a hmmwv guy but that certainly does not look right. Looks like your winch cable will rub against metal on the mount and you will bust a cable in no time Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chrishag: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Winch is mounted but not hooked up. Putting the ibis Tek bumper back on took alot of time aligning it to fit and it's still not great. Not sure why they designed it to sit above the opening on the winch plate. Biggest problem is it doesn't allow the hood to open all the way. Hits the bars on the blinkers. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200516_184317_jpg-1419076.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/86875/IMG_20200516_184323_jpg-1419074.JPG I’m not a hmmwv guy but that certainly does not look right. Looks like your winch cable will rub against metal on the mount and you will bust a cable in no time Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too... I know the Ibis Tek installation instructions reference the "optional winch kit" which looks like the Mile Marker. I need to go back over it and see what it says. |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 8:55:43 PM EDT
[#46]
A fairlead roller will mount under the ibis Tek on the mile marker plate. I looked at the ibis Tek manual and don't see a different winch plate. Looks like every other mile marker one.
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:26:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: A fairlead roller will mount under the ibis Tek on the mile marker plate. I looked at the ibis Tek manual and don't see a different winch plate. Looks like every other mile marker one. I'm looking at my hard copy of the manual and it looks like the MM plate is slightly different than the one they show on the "optional winch kit". How it's different, I can't exactly tell. There's not really anything out there on the specific Ibis Tek part number. Maybe the roller fairlead on the MM plate would keep it from rubbing. Hard to determine from pics alone though. The mounting plate here looks like the one in the installation instructions with the hole placement and everything. They call it a Mile Marker electric winch mounting plate. Looking at the two, it looks like the electric plate sits higher. The one in the Ibis Tek manual looks like it's got mounting holes like the electric plate but, the "ears" seem to be as tall as the hydraulic plate, unless that's an optical illusion. Very confusing... Plate in the Ibis Tek manual:  Attached FileElectric plate:   Hydraulic plate:   |
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:46:42 PM EDT
[#48]
Yep. No matter which plate, all of the openings appear to be on the bottom. There was an extra fairlead in the kit so I'm going to install it tomorrow unless someone can point me to a different direction. If you look at the pic the first opening shows the mile marker operation plate perfectly. Also might explain why the center was open on the bottom to allow the cable to feed through, although not ideal.
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Posted: 5/16/2020 9:48:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter: Yep. No matter which plate, all of the openings appear to be on the bottom. There was an extra fairlead in the kit so I'm going to install it tomorrow unless someone can point me to a different direction. If you look at the pic the first opening shows the mile marker operation plate perfectly. Also might explain why the center was open on the bottom to allow the cable to feed through, although not ideal. True... I wonder if contacting Ibis Tek would yield any results. I've just never seen the Ibis Tek used with a MM so I've got no idea what "normal" is. ETA: Maybe try sending them a message on FB.
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Posted: 5/17/2020 8:31:23 PM EDT
[#50]
Second fair lead won't fit. So that idea is out. I agree that this setup will tear up the cable and plate. Plus the hood not staying open. Running out of ideas other than ditching the Ibis Tek number and going with a different style.
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