So You Want To Buy A Surplus HMMWV/Humvee - A How-To Guide (And All Other Things HMMWV Too!) (Page 7 of 102)
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Rallequip claims the tires are removed from trucks and already balanced, as evident from the wheel weights on each wheel/tire combo. They dont mess with the tires, they just sell removed tires on wheels. The local tire shop balanced them for me and said they were off balance. Discount tire wanted $20 per tire and they refused to touch them since they are "two piece wheels", but a local place didn't have an issue with it and only charged $15 per tire. I repainted the truck one color at a time over the existing colors. I should have just repainted it green and redid the camo pattern, but I was lazy. I haven't decided on the tire markings yet. I really dont want to mess with them and I think they are dumb. Here is a tip for anyone considering removing their soft top. It slides out from left to right or right to left from the retainer on the windshield. Don't remove all the screws on the retainer and the rip it off the windshield, destroying the seal, like I did.  I have since screwded it back down, but I am not sure if I messed anything up.
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
I decided to paint my truck and ordered a case and a half of 383 Green, three cans of 383 Brown and three cans of 911 Black CARC substitute spraypaint from Rapco. The guy on the phone with them told me I'd need more than what I ordered in black and brown, but I didn't believe him. I was wrong. I need to order another 4-5 cans of black and 3 of Brown. I spent about 12 total hours prepping the truck (vacuum, removal of floor insulation, vacuum, pressure wash, soap, pressure wash again, vacuum and taping the data plates) and about five hours of painting today. I am very sore and didn't think it would be so time consuming. It ended up looking a lot better than it did, but I need to do so additional touch-up since I ran out of black and brown. For what its worth I still have a case of 383 Green cans. Pro tip: buy one of those sawzaw spray paint can shaker attachments on ebay and also a trigger spray paint attachment before starting. It made it a lot easier than it would have been. Prep Pics: <a href="http://s247.photobucket.com/user/dab969/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswzfrjccs.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg141/dab969/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpswzfrjccs.jpeg</a> <a href="http://s247.photobucket.com/user/dab969/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssxfslsei.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg141/dab969/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssxfslsei.jpeg</a> Crappy pic of where it stands now (Three Coats)... <a href="http://s247.photobucket.com/user/dab969/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmguyw8hu.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg141/dab969/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmguyw8hu.jpeg</a> I also got my new 24 bolt wheels and Baja tires I purchased from Rallequip.com for $950 delivered balanced at a local tire shop today, but I haven't installed them yet. I need to first replace the half shaft boots and change the differential and hub oil. I am planning on attempting that tomorrow. I am tired at them moment and enjoying some cold beer. Holy cow bro! You jumped in feet first and it looks great! 
Prep is always the suck part of painting. 
Did you recoat the truck in green and then redo the camo pattern or are you just respraying each color individually on the existing pattern? I'm guessing the latter... I'm planning on respraying green and then redoing the camo pattern. You going to re-stencil the markings like tire pressure? Just to make sure I understand, Rallequip didn't balance the tires prior to delivery? They just install the tires/runflats on the rim and ship? I'm enjoying some beer right now too, some Clown Shoes White Tail Unidragon.  It's more chilled than cold. Just how you've got to drink a 12% Russian Imperial Stout. 
I repainted the truck one color at a time over the existing colors. I should have just repainted it green and redid the camo pattern, but I was lazy. I haven't decided on the tire markings yet. I really dont want to mess with them and I think they are dumb. Here is a tip for anyone considering removing their soft top. It slides out from left to right or right to left from the retainer on the windshield. Don't remove all the screws on the retainer and the rip it off the windshield, destroying the seal, like I did. I have since screwded it back down, but I am not sure if I messed anything up.
Looks real good to me. I like it. Want to feel better about your 3 Color job? Go to a few local NG units, or vehicle yards / depot. The variance in color, pattern, and quality of work is pretty wide. I took a ton of pics of active trucks and compared them over and over while I was spraying. I went for an "average" based on what I saw. 
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EAHBAR - that looks outstanding. Thanks for also posting how many cans you needed, I may go that route as well just for the sake of simplicity over dealing with CARC.
I started "phase 1" of turning my M1038 into a GMV, so I'm slowly accumulating parts. 
While I like the doors, it doesn't appear that the knock-out windshields were around until the 1151 series came about, so I'll probably opt not to use them. Here's a pic with the doors in use: 
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Does the Rapco paint have a little more shine to it compared to CARC? Most of the shine you are seeing in the pic is from the floresent lights in my garage. |
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Great info and details on your painting adventures EagleArms!
Some painting news on my front... Just picked up a gallon of the Behr Marquee earlier today. The lady at Home Depot's paint counter was a little skeptical about the Federal color code but looked it up and was surprised to see it. Got it made up no problem and the sample dot is definitely 383 Green! Also picked up a bottle of Floetrol which is needed to spray latex paint through an HVLP gun. You only need 8oz of Floetrol per gallon of paint and the bottle is over a pint so it goes a long way. Behr was $40ish and the Floetrol was $7. Also, got my GovPlanet Iron Clad refund so I'll be picking up the CARC later this week. Now I just need to get up the nerve to start spraying stuff on things.
I've done plenty of rattle can but this will be my first venture into air delivered paint. I want to get all of the heavy lifting stuff done first though before the heat and humidity of Summer hit. And I did get a bit done Saturday and this evening (was busy working on call Sunday...  ).
Saturday I got my Ibis Tek 66" HID/IR light bar mounted up. An awesome light bar for a great price! Ended up paying $350ish from Ted Gates on Steel Soldiers for a mil spec, USA made light bar with IR capability with full control panel and wiring setup versus $250ish for a Chinese made LED light bar. The only downside is that you don't get the instant on light of LEDs as the HIDs take a few seconds to warm up to full brightness but when it does though, it is stupid bright! Literally like daylight! As expected, the IR LEDs work great with my PVS-14s. 
Normally the light bar would be off center due to the snorkel setup I've got but Ted sells a custom passenger side bracket with his light bars that accommodates the snorkel and helps bring it closer to center. The only modification required is trimming the snorkel bracket down to just one bolt hole. It definitely sticks out quite a bit with the rock shield opened. 
The MRAP lighting kit has a ton of P-Clamps so I snagged 3 of the smaller ones out of that to run the light bar cable down the passenger side of the windshield (forgot to get a pic of this, will get one tomorrow and update this post). From there I entered the cabin via a hole I drilled near the intake box and installed a rubber grommet in. I may fill it in with silicone if I find it needs it. 
Mounted the control box to the dog house (forgot to get a pic, will also get one of that tomorrow). The Eyecon control box will also get mounted up to the doghouse near the Ibis Tek box. I do need to finish running the wiring from where it enters the cabin into the battery box area. A word of warning: Do not use a step bit to drill the windshield frame for the rivnuts or at least don't use it to drill the holes to full diameter. A couple spots have a second layer of metal beneath and if you try to drill it to proper diameter with the step bit, it will overdrill the first hole. Then you'll be stuck having to fab up sleeves for the rivnuts. Yeah, pure rookie mistake and I definitely should have known better... 
Overall, I think it looks really good. Going to mask it up and paint it 383 Green along with the rest of the truck. 
ETA: My estimates on needed bolt lengths and quantity was wildly off. I've struck those lines. I will update with full, correct numbers when the bumper and Rhino carrier is fully mounted. This afternoon I was able to get the old pintle hitch/"bumper" setup removed and start installing the full rear airlift bumper. I only mocked up the rear bumper with a couple bolts as I need several more Grade 8 bolts/nuts/washers for mounting and spacing. Also ran into a small compatibility issue between the A2 bumper I've got and the A0/A1 outer frame/body brackets. The A2 bumper is designed to use the newer teardrop style tiedowns. To use them, there are mounting holes in the middle of the 4 bolt squares on either side. The mounting holes have metal grommets welded in and those grommets stick out the back which will not allow the bumper to sit flush with the outer frame/body brackets. If you compare the A0/A1 setups to the A2, you can see the holes cut in the A2 outer frame/body brackets for the teardrop tiedowns that the A0/A1 brackets don't have. I'm going to end up drilling some holes in the brackets to allow the bumper to sit flush. Here's some pics. First, the brackets bolted up. Still need some Grade 8 washers to space the brackets out correctly. The inner bracket in my setup is vastly different from the one pictured in the links above. The reason being that that is the inner bracket that allows mounting of the rear electric winch. Without the rear winch mount, you need to reuse the inner pintle braces. You can also reuse all of the 1/2" bolts from the existing setup but you'll need about 8-10 more of identical length and 2-4 1/2" shorter, depending on your setup (I'll get into that more in a bit). Regardless, you will need the outer braces. Also, be careful taking out the outer/body brackets since they actually do support the body. You'd be surprised how much it flexes! Use some 2x4 pieces between the body and frame while you have the rubber mounts out. 
This thing is one heavy mother... After manhandling this thing solo I'm quite envious of EagleArms' already mounted bumper.
Here it is with a few bolts holding it in place unsupported. Will need the extra aforementioned bolts. Depending on if you're mounting a Rhino tire carrier or not, the bolts on the outermost braces may need to be differing lengths - driver's side versus passenger side. If you are mounting a Rhino carrier, the driver's side ones will be shorter (than all of the other bolts) while the passenger side will need to be longer (as long as the others) to accommodate the carrier. 
For the rear shackles, if you're not using the teardrop ones, you can reuse the D-Rings that should be mounted to the back of your truck. You'll need mounts for those though. Also, you'll need D-Rings for the ends of the bumpers. I had a couple extras that came with my Ibis Tek front bumper so I used those. A couple things with the rear electric winch setup. I'm seeing there could be an issue mounting up the civilian tow hitch due to the size of the winch specific inner brackets and the mounting arms on the hitch. I'll know better when I've got the bumper permanently bolted up and can start installing the hitch. Also, you cannot use the Pioneer Kit with the rear electric winch since the winch mounts right where the Pioneer Kit sits. Instead, I'm going to make this happen somehow... 
Oh, and as an aside. An astute observer may or may not note in the pictures above that my tail lights are not flush in the tail light buckets. I decided to replace the ones I had as they were not in great shape and cracking. So, I found a set on eBay. I'm not sure if these are knockoffs or if they are designed for a slightly different light assembly but they will not allow the lights to sit flush like the old ones did. Had to get some longer bolts to keep them mounted. Not too worried about them not sitting flush but it's just something to know if you're considering those specific ones. By the way, I used 3/16" x 3/8" (66) aluminum rivets to install the new buckets after drilling out the old ones. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
. By the way, I used 3/16" x 3/8" (66) aluminum rivets to install the new buckets after drilling out the old ones. I would recommend against mounting the P-kit on the hood that far back. Ive seen them wired or clamped down further forward without the actual carrier frame. If you do it that far back, it removes the ability to fold down the windshield (you may have already lost this due to the light bar and snorkel) and you have to look through it. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Got the doors mounted and painted three additional costs on the exterior today. Looks great with the doors on it. <a href="http://s247.photobucket.com/user/dab969/media/image_zpsilfrpgag.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg141/dab969/image_zpsilfrpgag.jpeg</a> <a href="http://s247.photobucket.com/user/dab969/media/image_zpsfsecuskc.jpeg.html" target="_blank">http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg141/dab969/image_zpsfsecuskc.jpeg</a> Anyone know the cure time for this paint? Slow clap on that buddy - that is looking spectacular. Google brought up an old post on Steelsoldiers regarding cure time - I found 90 days at 70* and less then 60% humidity before it's fully cured. |
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Thanks! I am happy with it so far, but I won't really be able to see what it looks like until I take it out of the garage. It is 78* and 13% humidity here today, so hopefully it won't be so long. The guy at Rapco said less than a week based on those numbers, but time will tell. |
Received the front half doors I had a guy make for me to match my rear half doors. Just need to paint then put the weather stripping on. Not sure what direction I am going to go with them as I am holding out for a slant back kit, but they should fit any of the configurations nicely.
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Received the front half doors I had a guy make for me to match my rear half doors. Just need to paint then put the weather stripping on. Not sure what direction I am going to go with them as I am holding out for a slant back kit, but they should fit any of the configurations nicely. <a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jake-cutter/media/IMG_20160427_182859.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/jake-cutter/IMG_20160427_182859.jpg</a> <a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jake-cutter/media/IMG_20160427_182840.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/jake-cutter/IMG_20160427_182840.jpg</a> Jacob - what did Libbster charge you for them? PM me if you'd rather not post it. |
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Originally Posted By hkx3:
I would recommend against mounting the P-kit on the hood that far back. Ive seen them wired or clamped down further forward without the actual carrier frame. If you do it that far back, it removes the ability to fold down the windshield (you may have already lost this due to the light bar and snorkel) and you have to look through it. Originally Posted By hkx3:
I would recommend against mounting the P-kit on the hood that far back. Ive seen them wired or clamped down further forward without the actual carrier frame. If you do it that far back, it removes the ability to fold down the windshield (you may have already lost this due to the light bar and snorkel) and you have to look through it. Yeah, that ship sailed when I decided to go with the snorkel and light bar. I had considered the cool factor of being able to fold the windshield when off roading but decided to go with the utility of having the snorkel/pre-cleaner, the light bar and the protection the windshield offers me from branches smacking me in the face or rocks thrown up from a truck in front lest I end up looking like this.
Also, I am pretty hesitant to mount the kit any further forward over the grille. Cooling is already a challenge on these trucks and I don't want to make it any harder than it already is. Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Slow clap on that buddy - that is looking spectacular. Seconded! 
Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Received the front half doors I had a guy make for me to match my rear half doors. Just need to paint then put the weather stripping on. Not sure what direction I am going to go with them as I am holding out for a slant back kit, but they should fit any of the configurations nicely. <a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jake-cutter/media/IMG_20160427_182859.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/jake-cutter/IMG_20160427_182859.jpg</a> <a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jake-cutter/media/IMG_20160427_182840.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb304/jake-cutter/IMG_20160427_182840.jpg</a> Jacob - what did Libbster charge you for them? PM me if you'd rather not post it. Damn! Those look sharp! I'd be curious on price as well... I'm guessing they work with the standard hard door strikes in the factory location? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
It was $450 for the front set and they mount the same same as the x doors so switching back and forth is easy. That's pretty reasonable! Is that with hardware? Any idea if the fabricator would be able to modify them to move the strike catch to a different location? Reason being is that I'd be most interested in switching between half doors and soft doors. Keeping both strikes installed would be nice but, I could probably live with switching strikes when the mood, well, strikes. What I really want though are half door/soft window hybrids like the Jeep guys have: 
Similar to these: 
But less permanent and more easily removed like Jeep/HMMWV doors. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: It was $450 for the front set and they mount the same same as the x doors so switching back and forth is easy. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: It was $450 for the front set and they mount the same same as the x doors so switching back and forth is easy. Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: It was $450 for the front set and they mount the same same as the x doors so switching back and forth is easy. That's pretty reasonable! Is that with hardware? Any idea if the fabricator would be able to modify them to move the strike catch to a different location? Reason being is that I'd be most interested in switching between half doors and soft doors. Keeping both strikes installed would be nice but, I could probably live with switching strikes when the mood, well, strikes. What I really want though are half door/soft window hybrids like the Jeep guys have: http://i.imgur.com/DFoMY5E.jpg?1 Similar to these: http://i.imgur.com/EdtB5Jw.jpg But less permanent and more easily removed like Jeep/HMMWV doors. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
If the gov keeps selling HMMWVs, mark my words that someone will come along and start making aftermarket parts at reasonable prices, though it may take ten years. Agreed - we're at the very beginning of what could be a burgeoning market with these trucks, so there is no telling what might turn up. The aftermarket support for the various Jeeps didn't grow overnight either....... |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Agreed - we're at the very beginning of what could be a burgeoning market with these trucks, so there is no telling what might turn up. The aftermarket support for the various Jeeps didn't grow overnight either....... Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
If the gov keeps selling HMMWVs, mark my words that someone will come along and start making aftermarket parts at reasonable prices, though it may take ten years. Agreed - we're at the very beginning of what could be a burgeoning market with these trucks, so there is no telling what might turn up. The aftermarket support for the various Jeeps didn't grow overnight either....... Especially if they pull their heads out of their asses and get rid of the off road restrictions. But not too fast... I want to enjoy the cool factor and exclusivity of my truck for a little bit. 
I'd say top and door options are what the market is most in need of right now. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
I'd say top and door options are what the market is most in need of right now. Ultimately it'll be any of the high-demand items for these trucks. Most of the common mechanical parts seem to be cheap or are readily available at Autozone. Roofs and doors will always be high demand, so it'll be interesting to see what comes up. The problem is what constitutes high demand. If there are 3000 trucks out there and 10 percent needs roofs or doors - is that enough of a demand to set up a production line? |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734: Ultimately it'll be any of the high-demand items for these trucks. Most of the common mechanical parts seem to be cheap or are readily available at Autozone. Roofs and doors will always be high demand, so it'll be interesting to see what comes up. The problem is what constitutes high demand. If there are 3000 trucks out there and 10 percent needs roofs or doors - is that enough of a demand to set up a production line? Originally Posted By Lawman734: Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck: I'd say top and door options are what the market is most in need of right now. Ultimately it'll be any of the high-demand items for these trucks. Most of the common mechanical parts seem to be cheap or are readily available at Autozone. Roofs and doors will always be high demand, so it'll be interesting to see what comes up. The problem is what constitutes high demand. If there are 3000 trucks out there and 10 percent needs roofs or doors - is that enough of a demand to set up a production line? |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Those are really cool for the money! If that price includes the doors as pictured, please PM me the info too. I provided the arm rest and handles and he cut the arm rest to fit and made all of the linkage and spacers to make it work. You can get the parts cheap when you find the rear half doors for the armored carrier which are about 4 inches shorter than the regular half doors. The parts will need to be modified and handles added to make it all work. The g503 member that made them is libbster29 and also goes by m998-nut on ebay but he is way cheaper when you contact him directly. He also quoted me $1500 to make the GMV roll bar with the slats on the side like the one lawman posted above. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
I provided the arm rest and handles and he cut the arm rest to fit and made all of the linkage and spacers to make it work. You can get the parts cheap when you find the rear half doors for the armored carrier which are about 4 inches shorter than the regular half doors. The parts will need to be modified and handles added to make it all work. The g503 member that made them is libbster29 and also goes by m998-nut on ebay but he is way cheaper when you contact him directly. He also quoted me $1500 to make the GMV roll bar with the slats on the side like the one lawman posted above. Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Those are really cool for the money! If that price includes the doors as pictured, please PM me the info too. I provided the arm rest and handles and he cut the arm rest to fit and made all of the linkage and spacers to make it work. You can get the parts cheap when you find the rear half doors for the armored carrier which are about 4 inches shorter than the regular half doors. The parts will need to be modified and handles added to make it all work. The g503 member that made them is libbster29 and also goes by m998-nut on ebay but he is way cheaper when you contact him directly. He also quoted me $1500 to make the GMV roll bar with the slats on the side like the one lawman posted above. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I can find the real GMV bed rails, so I'm not quite ready to jump yet - but me spending $1500 for the desired look isn't really out of the question if I run out of options. Pricey? Yes, but when you figure the cost of a lot of the other stuff for these things, it's not exactly bad either. |
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Just since I bought my first Humvee, roughly 2.5 years ago, soft tops for the 4 man have gone from virtually worthless (100-300 dollars new in bag/box) to 650 - 1000.
Doors (soft) were $100/set. Now they are 100/ea, used with stitching loose and windows cloudy. |
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Originally Posted By hkx3:
Just since I bought my first Humvee, roughly 2.5 years ago, soft tops for the 4 man have gone from virtually worthless (100-300 dollars new in bag/box) to 650 - 1000. Doors (soft) were $100/set. Now they are 100/ea, used with stitching loose and windows cloudy. Holy cow! These are not the salad days of tops and doors.
Doesn't help GMA is no longer in business. I'm all fitted out now (except for maybe doors) but I'm just curious, anyone dealt with John Johnson? Looks like they manufacture the full line of tops, doors, and curtains that GMA did. |
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I think you will see new soft tops in the very near future as someone/company placed a very large order from Breton Industries. Up until November they were selling directly to the public and several guys were buying the FMTV cargo covers for a really good price. I contacted them about ordering a 4 man soft top kit and was given a price of $640 for the top, curtain and rails . When I tried to place my order I was told that they just received a very large contract and would not be taking orders from the public until late summer/fall of 2016.
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: I think you will see new soft tops in the very near future as someone/company placed a very large order from Breton Industries. Up until November they were selling directly to the public and several guys were buying the FMTV cargo covers for a really good price. I contacted them about ordering a 4 man soft top kit and was given a price of $640 for the top, curtain and rails . When I tried to place my order I was told that they just received a very large contract and would not be taking orders from the public until late summer/fall of 2016. Do you have a source for the military supplier of X-Door windows and windshields? My windshield has a ton of scratches on it and I'd also like new windows. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
]I guess this means I should dump the less desirable soft doors that I have now (bad windows) before nice stuff is available... Do you have a source for the military supplier of X-Door windows and windshields? My windshield has a ton of scratches on it and I'd also like new windows. For Windshield glass try Kascar for $81 or Mac Motors for $56(Search 12339514). You will have to see which ones comes out cheaper with shipping. I would get new seals at the same time. I have not been able to find X Door glass, but need some myself. I was told any local auto glass company can cut some to make for cheap, but haven't gotten around to getting some made. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: For Windshield glass try Kascar for $81 or Mac Motors for $56(Search 12339514). You will have to see which ones comes out cheaper with shipping. I would get new seals at the same time. I have not been able to find X Door glass, but need some myself. I was told any local auto glass company can cut some to make for cheap, but haven't gotten around to getting some made. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: ]I guess this means I should dump the less desirable soft doors that I have now (bad windows) before nice stuff is available... Do you have a source for the military supplier of X-Door windows and windshields? My windshield has a ton of scratches on it and I'd also like new windows. For Windshield glass try Kascar for $81 or Mac Motors for $56(Search 12339514). You will have to see which ones comes out cheaper with shipping. I would get new seals at the same time. I have not been able to find X Door glass, but need some myself. I was told any local auto glass company can cut some to make for cheap, but haven't gotten around to getting some made. |
| You can order from Mac Motors. I have placed 4 orders from them so far, all online. They seem to have the best price on most AMG parts. Its just hard to find things because you have to have the part number. Shipping has also been very reasonable and really fast. |
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"Mac Motors can only supply AM General HMMWV parts to the United States Department of Defense, DOD Contractors and municipalities owning and operating a military vehicle. The sale of parts for use in privately owned vehicles is prohibited and persons misrepresenting themselves in order to obtain parts will be prosecuted” I guess as so long as you don't misrepresent yourself you are good to go. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
"Mac Motors can only supply AM General HMMWV parts to the United States Department of Defense, DOD Contractors and municipalities owning and operating a military vehicle. The sale of parts for use in privately owned vehicles is prohibited and persons misrepresenting themselves in order to obtain parts will be prosecuted” I guess as so long as you don't misrepresent yourself you are good to go. Never saw that, but see it now in their FAQs. Its odd because they claim on their front page Great Prices on all Military and Civilian Hummer/Humvee Parts!. Its been real easy to order from them and they have a lot of civilian hummer parts. A lot of guys on SS order from them too. They even sale on ebay. Now if you are DOD or police, I know they get special pricing, but regular civilian orders get the pricing you see. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Never saw that, but see it now in their FAQs. Its odd because they claim on their front page Great Prices on all Military and Civilian Hummer/Humvee Parts!. Its been real easy to order from them and they have a lot of civilian hummer parts. A lot of guys on SS order from them too. They even sale on ebay. Now if you are DOD or police, I know they get special pricing, but regular civilian orders get the pricing you see. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: "Mac Motors can only supply AM General HMMWV parts to the United States Department of Defense, DOD Contractors and municipalities owning and operating a military vehicle. The sale of parts for use in privately owned vehicles is prohibited and persons misrepresenting themselves in order to obtain parts will be prosecuted” I guess as so long as you don't misrepresent yourself you are good to go. Never saw that, but see it now in their FAQs. Its odd because they claim on their front page Great Prices on all Military and Civilian Hummer/Humvee Parts!. Its been real easy to order from them and they have a lot of civilian hummer parts. A lot of guys on SS order from them too. They even sale on ebay. Now if you are DOD or police, I know they get special pricing, but regular civilian orders get the pricing you see. "These are doors that the military originally screwed sheets of plywood to the outside of to imitate the armor plating on the up-armored HMMWV's. While we've already removed the plywood, some minor patchwork will still be required to cover the screw holes left behind by this (please see pictures for examples)" That seems silly; is it something that really happened? |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
"[/span][span style='font-size: 14pt;'][span style='font-size: 10pt;']These are doors that the military originally screwed sheets of plywood to the outside of to imitate the armor plating on the up-armored HMMWV's. While we've already removed the plywood, some minor patchwork will still be required to cover the screw holes left behind by this (please see pictures for examples)" That seems silly; is it something that really happened?[/span] [/span] That seems quite silly and likely never happened. Hell, if they need armor and didn't have prefabbed armored doors - they just added armored plate. The Marines did it quite a bit in the beginning of the war. |
Well, I'm a bit pissed right now... 
A bit ago I got an unexpected Saturday phone call from the supervisor at the Clermont County BMV but before I go into it, let me rewind a few days. On Thursday I got an official email from GovPlanet telling me about the delay in Florida titles asking me how I wanted to proceed; whether I wanted my SF97 and $100 refund or to wait until they got the title situation ironed out (with no time frame on resolution). So, not knowing how/if Ohio deals with SF97s, I stopped in to my local BMV office and asked a) if they've got any problem giving me a title via an SF97, b) if my Ohio title would be branded off road when it was received, and c) if I should be able to file the BMV Form 3803, have the truck meet the listed equipment standards, and have my Ohio off road title changed to a passenger vehicle title. Not surprisingly, the clerk I dealt with didn't have much in terms of information but thought that they could use SF97s however she'd have to check with her supervisor who was not currently in. She took my questions down and my number and told me the supervisor would call me when she got in that day. Later in the day, I get a call from the clerk that the supervisor will have to call me Friday. Friday I actually do get a call from the supervisor around 4:30pm.  She tells me they can indeed give me an Ohio off road title with no problem with the SF97 but that she didn't think based on information from Columbus that I could get it titled as a passenger vehicle because it didn't meet emissions standards and made some mention about safety. That the only way it would meet emissions standards is if it had a V-8 diesel and 6 speed transmission installed instead? I have no idea where the hell they pulled that from.  I pointed out to her that a) my truck is exempt from emissions standards and has a sticker to prove it and b) military vehicles sold to the public are exempt from safety standards as noted in this 1994 NHTSA memo. I told her I could forward her this information as well as the 2nd YouTube video that Hoosier_In_Cornfield posted in an email and we could go from there.
Which brings us to today and the unexpected Saturday phone call from a government bureaucrat. The supervisor confirmed that they will definitely have no problem with the Ohio off road title from the SF97. She then tells me that from her supervisor in Columbus, I cannot get the title changed from off road. The story has now changed to that emissions requirements don't matter but instead that it is because my truck doesn't have some safety sticker. I again referred her to the memo that military vehicles, so long as they meet standards as delivered to the military, do not need to meet FMVSS requirements. She pointed out a section of the memo that states, "(however, because of safety policy considerations they have not done so with respect to M-151 jeeps and HMMV vehicles)". I informed her that this was only a policy (not law) by the government governing sales of the vehicles and that this was before the government decided to revisit the policy on sales to the public, and since the trucks are now being sold, they now fall under the stated policy of not requiring military vehicles to meet FMVSS requirements to subsequent owners. I also asked her where in the Ohio Revised Code or on the affidavit that it required this sticker and, if this is a requirement, how vehicles like rail buggies which are ostensibly less safe than my truck are able to get Ohio plates with the affidavit and operate on the road and yet my truck couldn't. I pointed out as well that a number of other military vehicles like M35s and M900s are operated on Ohio roads without issue while not meeting these safety and emissions standards (the funniest part is that there is a plated 5 ton parked at someone's property visibly along the route you'd have to take to the BMV office she's in and he assuredly got the plates from there). And lastly I asked how the gentleman in the YouTube video was able to get his plated using nearly the exact same process I was inquiring about in that he got an Ohio off road title, filed the affidavit, and received his valid tags. The only difference is that I would be using an SF97 to get my Ohio off road title while he used a Florida off road title to get his Ohio off road title. What should be an inconsequential difference. In classic bureaucratic standards, she wasn't able to answer any of that with any specificity, only that this "is what Columbus has told her" and, suggested I call her supervisor in Columbus directly and see if I could provide her with any information she didn't have and see if she says something different. In other words, go bother someone else so they can tell you the same thing. So the gist of it is that even though I would be in full compliance with Ohio law, they don't want to give it a regular title for some unknown reason, and are making up non-existent standards to justify it. Just like the ATF! Yay government! I may be down at the moment but I'm definitely not out. I've got Plans B, C, D, E, F, and G in place and ready to be put in motion. I won't disclose them in public though until I've gone through them. If those fail, I'll go nuclear and see about involving my local state representative and possibly local Congressman to twist some arms. 
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Ryan, that sucks, but I don't understand why you went and asked for permission instead of just showing up and not making a big deal about it. The SF97 is the certificate of origin for the vehicle. Shouldn't need to be handled any different than when a new car is registered. Bureaucrats are going to bureaucrat when they can so that they can feel important. You would think... Like I mentioned, other plans are in the play book in the event this happened. 
For your light, it sounds like a wire or wires are grounding out on the body somewhere. Since it's an issue with both high and low beams I'd suggest 2 wires are being affected. Look for any wires tagged 17 or 18, those are your high and low beams respectively. I'd start at the light bucket and work your way back to any area where the wires are bunched and both are getting pinched or where the wires could be dry rotted and are grounding like a common plug. I know there is a cannon plug that connects the hood to the body. That would be a good place to check. Work your way back to the M pin on the master light switch if need be. I'd go outside and look to offer something more specific but it's raining pretty good. I may be able to head out and check later. I've got rear bumper work I really want to get done but the weather is, again, not cooperating. Can't help you on the wipers since I never put my windshield down and don't know where everything runs for that. |
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There are some contacts between the windshield frame. You may have gotten the weather stripping stuck between the contacts when you raised it back up. Check there, clean the contacts, and apply some electrical grease. As for the headlights, clean and check the grounds. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: There are some contacts between the windshield frame. You may have gotten the weather stripping stuck between the contacts when you raised it back up.  |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Skip inspection by going antique plates since it is over 25 years old. Thats what I did so I can drive it and work through the issues. Once I have it completely how I want it, I will switch to classic or regular plates. |
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Undaunted by the events from earlier today I literally just wrapped up getting the rear air lift bumper, rear winch plate, and Rhino carrier mounted!
Not exactly 100% done as there are 3 bolts that need Grade 8 nuts (I underestimated how many I had left) and I need to install the winch's roller fairlead mount. Other than that the only things that will need done on the rear is mounting the civilian trailer hitch, installing the trailer lighting plug on the bumper, and installing my license plate light. 
Here's a shot of the modified A0/A1 outside/body brackets. The holes will now allow the A2 bumper to sit flush on the brackets. Used a 1-3/4" hole saw on my drill. Slow and steady is the name of the game so you don't burn up the saw. Add some cutting oil to it as well as you go. It is very hard metal. Sprayed some flat black Rustoleum on it after I was done. 
Here's the back shot. Sorry for the screwy perspective it was starting to rain as I was finishing and it had just picked up. 
And a side profile shot. Again, picture could have been better. Would also look a lot better with a tire on it.
It was a bit of a pain getting everything installed but, I think it would have gone a lot smoother if I had the correct number of correctly sized fasteners instead of having to make trips. Having to modify the body brackets didn't help! I'll detail the number and sizes of fasteners soon just as soon as I can go over them in my head. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
You would think... Like I mentioned, other plans are in the play book in the event this happened.
For your light, it sounds like a wire or wires are grounding out on the body somewhere. Since it's an issue with both high and low beams I'd suggest 2 wires are being affected. Look for any wires tagged 17 or 18, those are your high and low beams respectively. I'd start at the light bucket and work your way back to any area where the wires are bunched and both are getting pinched or where the wires could be dry rotted and are grounding like a common plug. I know there is a cannon plug that connects the hood to the body. That would be a good place to check. Work your way back to the M pin on the master light switch if need be. I'd go outside and look to offer something more specific but it's raining pretty good. I may be able to head out and check later. I've got rear bumper work I really want to get done but the weather is, again, not cooperating. Can't help you on the wipers since I never put my windshield down and don't know where everything runs for that. Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Ryan, that sucks, but I don't understand why you went and asked for permission instead of just showing up and not making a big deal about it. The SF97 is the certificate of origin for the vehicle. Shouldn't need to be handled any different than when a new car is registered. Bureaucrats are going to bureaucrat when they can so that they can feel important. You would think... Like I mentioned, other plans are in the play book in the event this happened.
For your light, it sounds like a wire or wires are grounding out on the body somewhere. Since it's an issue with both high and low beams I'd suggest 2 wires are being affected. Look for any wires tagged 17 or 18, those are your high and low beams respectively. I'd start at the light bucket and work your way back to any area where the wires are bunched and both are getting pinched or where the wires could be dry rotted and are grounding like a common plug. I know there is a cannon plug that connects the hood to the body. That would be a good place to check. Work your way back to the M pin on the master light switch if need be. I'd go outside and look to offer something more specific but it's raining pretty good. I may be able to head out and check later. I've got rear bumper work I really want to get done but the weather is, again, not cooperating. Can't help you on the wipers since I never put my windshield down and don't know where everything runs for that. I will ask, as a person who has already titled and insured and drives my HMMWV all over the place, please dont "go nuclear" and piss off the right person, who then digs and digs and screws up the process for everyone. You could very easily dick this up for those of us already titled and rolling around. What do I base this on? I base it on the gun world, where things float along just fine until some squeaky wheel gets greased, and the rest of the community does as well. Please just proceed with a little more caution. I got my whole process done, in one day, at one location, by being calm, and very humble. I acted very dumb about the truck, and let them do their discovery process by calmly pointing out the data plate and odometer. ETA: I have 8 or 10 extra wheel and tire assemblies if you need one for your spare. They range from 13MM tire gaged to 18mm (new) all are on 12 Bolt lockers |
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Originally Posted By hkx3:
I will ask, as a person who has already titled and insured and drives my HMMWV all over the place, please dont "go nuclear" and piss off the right person, who then digs and digs and screws up the process for everyone. You could very easily dick this up for those of us already titled and rolling around. What do I base this on? I base it on the gun world, where things float along just fine until some squeaky wheel gets greased, and the rest of the community does as well. Please just proceed with a little more caution. I got my whole process done, in one day, at one location, by being calm, and very humble. I acted very dumb about the truck, and let them do their discovery process by calmly pointing out the data plate and odometer. ETA: I have 8 or 10 extra wheel and tire assemblies if you need one for your spare. They range from 13MM tire gaged to 18mm (new) all are on 12 Bolt lockers Trust me, I been on here since 2006 and I too have seen what happens in the gun world with memos, letters, etc. I just want the Ohio BMV to abide by the law and not arbitrarily make it up as they go along. You, me, the guy in the YouTube video, and any other Ohio resident putting these trucks on the road is 100% on the up and up under Ohio law with what should be established processes. Motorbike guys get dirtbikes changed from off road only to on road all the time. No one can argue with a straight face that a dirtbike on the road is safer than one of these trucks. I played vague and dumb too going so far as to call it a Hummer when asked what type of truck it was. I didn't even volunteer that but mentioned that when they asked though. Even referred to it as a Military Hummer in my correspondence with the local supervisor. Like I said, I've got several plans to run through before last resort. I'll probably be in touch about a wheel/tire once I get her on the road.
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
I can't find the info online regarding antique plates, other than they don't require inspection. Is 25 years the threshold on them? Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Skip inspection by going antique plates since it is over 25 years old. Thats what I did so I can drive it and work through the issues. Once I have it completely how I want it, I will switch to classic or regular plates. yes 25 years is the threshold. It took all of 15 minutes for me. Took the sf97, paid invoice showing I paid taxes, and my insurance card fron JCTaylor. No inspection required and I had a plate (just one for antiques) in my hand when I walked out. |
Went out and had Chinese for dinner. As is usually the case, got a fortune cookie at the end.
I think that is the only time I've had a fortune cookie be even remotely relevant so given earlier today I had to share.
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter: yes 25 years is the threshold. It took all of 15 minutes for me. Took the sf97, paid invoice showing I paid taxes, and my insurance card fron JCTaylor. No inspection required and I had a plate (just one for antiques) in my hand when I walked out. Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: Originally Posted By jake-cutter: Skip inspection by going antique plates since it is over 25 years old. Thats what I did so I can drive it and work through the issues. Once I have it completely how I want it, I will switch to classic or regular plates. yes 25 years is the threshold. It took all of 15 minutes for me. Took the sf97, paid invoice showing I paid taxes, and my insurance card fron JCTaylor. No inspection required and I had a plate (just one for antiques) in my hand when I walked out.
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Does anyone make a battery powered 7" round headlight that I could just pop in there for inspection purposes? Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Skip inspection by going antique plates since it is over 25 years old. Thats what I did so I can drive it and work through the issues. Once I have it completely how I want it, I will switch to classic or regular plates. yes 25 years is the threshold. It took all of 15 minutes for me. Took the sf97, paid invoice showing I paid taxes, and my insurance card fron JCTaylor. No inspection required and I had a plate (just one for antiques) in my hand when I walked out. If your driver's light is good, maybe temporarily run 3 (ground, high, low) wires from that side to your passenger to bypass any possible bad wires? I'd go right to the headlamp if possible, no other connectors in the circuit. Any splices you have to make into the factory wiring can be repaired with butt connectors or soldered and resealed to be waterproof with adhesive lined heat shrink. By the way, on the PDF I've got, Page 882 of TM 9-2320-280-20-1 has the lighting circuit from the master light switch to each light. The lighting system maintenance and service starts on page 315 of TM 9-2320-280-20-2. |
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Need some help:
Im moving into the interior of mine now, and starting to look at the smaller details. What is the purpose of the plywood thats cut and screwed down over the center tunnel? On mine its obviously a precision cut piece (actually 2) and they are green. They are rotting at the edges, and Id like to either remove and discard them, or replace them. Didnt know the reason they are there to start with |