So You Want To Buy A Surplus HMMWV/Humvee - A How-To Guide (And All Other Things HMMWV Too!) (Page 50 of 102)
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Ive got a late model fuel gauge sender and access panel coming soon, A2 steering wheel as well. I'm not the least bit afraid of using a cutoff wheel so the panel should go smoothly. I'm tempted to make my own gasket as they are 8 bucks at kascar. I remember Ryan Ruck did a write-up on here about installing the new sender so I can refer to that if I can't figure it out.
I was googling m1097a2s to check out what a 2 door A2 usually looks like for inspiration for my truck. I followed a picture link to govplanet and found a nice looking tan m1097a2 that sold for $11,000. I glanced at the condition report and it was a running truck with a 6.5 (unsure if A2s got GM engines or all GEPs) missing the door fill panels and troop seats, otherwise pretty complete looking. I never followed the auctions because I was afraid to gamble the first time around, and I bought my truck from a local guy. But if A2s really are selling for around the same price I paid for an A1, I might want to sell and not go through the headache of doing the 4l80e swap afterall. Problem is the market around here is absolutely filled with m998s and a few A1s. They vary from auction flip to hobbyist's truck, flat black with ugly wheels to milspec. Alot are asking $15K and up but I don't know why anyone would pay that. I'd keep my bolt on extras minus the airlift bumper (A2 would probably come with it) and just move them over to the new truck. I like my 3 color A1 but man it would be nice having the nice stuff without having to spend forever trying to install it on my own with limited mechanical experience. Then again maybe a time will come when turbo trucks with the improved cooling setup auction for a reasonable amount. And it would be worth waiting to buy that instead. Its something to think about but I do really like my current truck. |
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the wheel got here. rented a simple bolt puller and thought everything was great. got back home and the puller didnt allow for the narrow spacing the hmmwv required for the bolts. correct course of action woulda been to take it back and order one that did for around 20 bucks, or find a rental one that fit. nope, i had time off and i wanted to see things happen. i used the puller and bolts but took a scrap piece of plywood and drilled it to sit behind the wheel. broke this in half once, beefed it up with deck screws and scraps, and started cranking. there was a sickening bang, and something gave. at first i thought id broken the splined shaft but nope. wheel was finally off! i messed with that thing for 2 hours gathering parts and tools and thinking about it. probably a 15 minute job if it all went well. anyways. same end result you have all seen before. but my own ridiculous way of getting there. 
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
anyways. same end result you have all seen before. but my own ridiculous way of getting there |
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Lawman734 thanks for posting the picture. I have seen one like that in the past and wasn't 100% sure. Should have got it, but now I know what to look for. Luckily mine came with the upgraded steering wheel. Also, if anyone is looking for a unique accessory, there are several swing out pelican cases that mount to the airlift bumper on ebay right now. Description states it fits with the tire carrier, but I don't think it will fit with the Rhino tire carrier. Looks like it sits too far to the right/center to work with the Rhino tire carrier. Maybe it fits with the Ibis Tek tire carrier. I keep debating getting one and modifying it to fit a jerry can. |
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Trans harness is about 90% done (excluding hooking up the TCM cannon plug). Finished soldering the splices and putting some liquid electrical tape on them last night. Just got done putting a couple more coats of liquid electrical tape on some joints that could use it. They're all going to be taped over with friction tape but it gives me peace of mind to have it on there extra thick. I used the Performix brand liquid electrical tape (grabbed from Lowe's) and while it seems to seal nicely, it's really runny and hard to keep in place and, takes a good deal of time to set up (they say 5 mins between coats but it is still very soft after that). My experience with liquid electrical tape is pretty limited so no idea if other brands are less runny and set up faster but, it does work for it's intended purpose. Only thing left to do is tape up the whole harness with friction tape, cut the leads to even lengths, and then install the Packard and Sure Seal connectors. While I was putting it together, I decided to add a lead to the rear for my reverse lights, even though it's only minimally tied to the trans harness as a whole. It just ties into it at the Check Trans Light leads and then heads off on it's own to the back of the truck. That reverse light lead used up the last bit of my 200' of Prestolite 16AWG. I did have to scavenge a couple feet of 14AWG (the smallest it uses aside from some 18AWG for the TPS) from my trashed 6.5T engine harness for the driver's side reverse light lead and will need a little more off of it to make ground leads 599A/599B for the TCM, ground 57T for the relay, and 290/291/537 for the 12v from the battery to the circuit breaker. All of those are pretty short leads so using the spare wire from the engine harness should be just fine. Originally Posted By Aguas:
Ive got a late model fuel gauge sender and access panel coming soon, A2 steering wheel as well. I'm not the least bit afraid of using a cutoff wheel so the panel should go smoothly. I'm tempted to make my own gasket as they are 8 bucks at kascar. I remember Ryan Ruck did a write-up on here about installing the new sender so I can refer to that if I can't figure it out. I was googling m1097a2s to check out what a 2 door A2 usually looks like for inspiration for my truck. I followed a picture link to govplanet and found a nice looking tan m1097a2 that sold for $11,000. I glanced at the condition report and it was a running truck with a 6.5 (unsure if A2s got GM engines or all GEPs) missing the door fill panels and troop seats, otherwise pretty complete looking. I never followed the auctions because I was afraid to gamble the first time around, and I bought my truck from a local guy. But if A2s really are selling for around the same price I paid for an A1, I might want to sell and not go through the headache of doing the 4l80e swap afterall. Problem is the market around here is absolutely filled with m998s and a few A1s. They vary from auction flip to hobbyist's truck, flat black with ugly wheels to milspec. Alot are asking $15K and up but I don't know why anyone would pay that. I'd keep my bolt on extras minus the airlift bumper (A2 would probably come with it) and just move them over to the new truck. I like my 3 color A1 but man it would be nice having the nice stuff without having to spend forever trying to install it on my own with limited mechanical experience. Then again maybe a time will come when turbo trucks with the improved cooling setup auction for a reasonable amount. And it would be worth waiting to buy that instead. Its something to think about but I do really like my current truck. 
If I were in your spot, I'd just keep plugging ahead with the truck you've got. Right now you've got a truck you've spent a good bit of time with and are fairly intimately familiar with. You know what it needs and what it doesn't. You pick up a new truck, you're back to square one with taking a gamble. Also like you said the market in KY is pretty saturated with HMMWVs (I noticed that myself keeping an eye on Craigslist) and since you'd be keeping the extras, there isn't a ton to set it apart from many of the other trucks. Something else to not forget, that $11k A2 is more like a $13k-$14k truck once you get the GP buyer's fee, taxes, and transport out of the way. My $9,500 truck ended up being a $12k truck by the time I got it home. If I were buying my first truck, and knowing what I know now, would I spend the extra $2k-$3k to get an A2 instead of an A1? There's a pretty good possibility I would since it would save time of swapping in a 4 speed and you'd get the 12k running gear. That said, it's been great doing the work to my truck that I have done and will do. I've never made a wiring harness before and now I can say I have! Originally Posted By Aguas:
the wheel got here. rented a simple bolt puller and thought everything was great. got back home and the puller didnt allow for the narrow spacing the hmmwv required for the bolts. correct course of action woulda been to take it back and order one that did for around 20 bucks, or find a rental one that fit. nope, i had time off and i wanted to see things happen. i used the puller and bolts but took a scrap piece of plywood and drilled it to sit behind the wheel. broke this in half once, beefed it up with deck screws and scraps, and started cranking. there was a sickening bang, and something gave. at first i thought id broken the splined shaft but nope. wheel was finally off! i messed with that thing for 2 hours gathering parts and tools and thinking about it. probably a 15 minute job if it all went well. anyways. same end result you have all seen before. but my own ridiculous way of getting there. http://i.imgur.com/yOJzPbU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nCOGkIu.jpg 
Definitely think I'd like to get the fat wheel on mine eventually too. Just one of those lower priority things for me, unless I happen across a wheel at a really good price. Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Lawman734 thanks for posting the picture. I have seen one like that in the past and wasn't 100% sure. Should have got it, but now I know what to look for. Luckily mine came with the upgraded steering wheel. Also, if anyone is looking for a unique accessory, there are several swing out pelican cases that mount to the airlift bumper on ebay right now. Description states it fits with the tire carrier, but I don't think it will fit with the Rhino tire carrier. Looks like it sits too far to the right/center to work with the Rhino tire carrier. Maybe it fits with the Ibis Tek tire carrier. I keep debating getting one and modifying it to fit a jerry can. And I suspect you're right about it not fitting with a Rhino, looking at that pic that shows it on a truck. I will barely be able to get my jerry can carrier on there with the Rhino (I think!) and looking at where that sits, I don't see it happening. Maybe if it were one of the AMG factory, offset carriers which is ironically what my jerry can carrier is supposed to work with. The funny thing is, even though I've already got my jerry can carrier and have no idea what I would use such an accessory for, I had a strange compulsion to want to buy one especially how inexpensive it is with the shipping included. Hell, the Pelican case if it's in good shape is an easy $200. I did not buy one however.
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Now that is an interesting piece of gear! Don't recall ever coming across that before. Wonder what the intended purpose was? An internet search didn't turn up a thing... I'm not a huge fan of where it mounts - it crowds the left tail light a little too closely for my comfort. |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
My understanding is that part of an add-on halon fire extinguishing system went in it. I'm not a huge fan of where it mounts - it crowds the left tail light a little too closely for my comfort. Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Now that is an interesting piece of gear! Don't recall ever coming across that before. Wonder what the intended purpose was? An internet search didn't turn up a thing... I'm not a huge fan of where it mounts - it crowds the left tail light a little too closely for my comfort. And you're right about proximity to the tail light. I'm going to have the same problem when I mount my can carrier but, when mocking it up, I found that if you're behind me correctly assuring clear distance and not riding my ass, you can still see my light just fine.  Especially from a driver's seat position.ETA: He replied. Already boxed it back up so no pics on the data sticker. No idea what tire carrier it's compatible with. No idea on weight capacity but said it's pretty heavy duty. Did say he thought it was for a Halon system. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Interesting... I asked the seller for a closeup pic of the data sticker so I'll post it when/if he sends it to me. And you're right about proximity to the tail light. I'm going to have the same problem when I mount my can carrier but, when mocking it up, I found that if you're behind me correctly assuring clear distance and not riding my ass, you can still see my light just fine. Especially from a driver's seat position.ETA: He replied. Already boxed it back up so no pics on the data sticker. No idea what tire carrier it's compatible with. No idea on weight capacity but said it's pretty heavy duty. Did say he thought it was for a Halon system. think youre right about keeping my truck. its just easier to do all around and i continue to add little upgrades so why not just hang on to it. the 4l80e upgrade is a must-have though because so much of my driving is 55mph highways and 2 lane. so that just means i have to go through with it! eventually. paint is the first big deal on the horizon. i hope to have the new garage standing to do it in, the old one is tight quarters and full of stuff and dust and snakes. speaking of paint, the guy i know in carrollton sent me a photo of a 4 door m998 he just freshened up with the carc substitute. he said i could have the rest of his brown, which is nice. ill probably head up there and get some firsthand pointers because ive never used a paintgun or painted a car before. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
The funny thing is, even though I've already got my jerry can carrier and have no idea what I would use such an accessory for, I had a strange compulsion to want to buy one especially how inexpensive it is with the shipping included. Hell, the Pelican case if it's in good shape is an easy $200. I did not buy one however. . I am tempted, but wish there were better measurements or pics from the back side. I am almost 100% sure it would hit the spare tire, but was tempted to get it and modify it for a jerry can holder and then have a spare pelican case for other projects or storage and throw it in the back.Originally Posted By Aguas:
speaking of paint, the guy i know in carrollton sent me a photo of a 4 door m998 he just freshened up with the carc substitute. he said i could have the rest of his brown, which is nice. ill probably head up there and get some firsthand pointers because ive never used a paintgun or painted a car before. |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
SNIP speaking of paint, the guy i know in carrollton sent me a photo of a 4 door m998 he just freshened up with the carc substitute. he said i could have the rest of his brown, which is nice. ill probably head up there and get some firsthand pointers because ive never used a paintgun or painted a car before. The 686 tan looks good, there's a shade difference up close when the old tan is next to the new due to sun fade. A studied look can pick out a difference between the hood and the rear fenders or tailgate standing back a few feet but from a cursory glance it looks good. I need to spend some time blending the new into the old areas and it should look fine. I didn't consider the paint to be very expensive. I'm OK with the cost and coverage from a can. The surface preparation is the most important part of painting. Sand, degrease, wash, and dry all areas well that are to be painted. I'd suggest not being stingy with the paint and trying to lay it on thick all at once. Hold the spray can back about 10 inches until you get your movement down. You'll have less dense coverage initially but it will keep you from getting runs while your technique develops. As you get your technique down you can move into a 6-8 inch range. Mask off with tape and cardboard then lay down multiple coats. Don't spray while stationary, always be moving your hand and/or arm. The back and forth overlapping passes you see the pros do is a fine skill. If you try and mimic their movement you'll likely end up with runs at the extremes of the pass because you're technique is a bad and you're pausing too much before the return pass. Swallow your pride and accept you won't be as efficient as a pro. Take your time and you should be fine. |
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Well, I do believe my trans harness is complete. Finished it off watching Live PD.
Splices are all coated. Harness is fully taped. All Sure Seal connectors are attached. I'll lay it out in the driveway tomorrow and take a pic. I'm going to make sure to measure each leg and notate which leads are on what legs, even though I've made a spreadsheet with all of the leads and where they go to. It's a little easier to make sense of it with a picture. One thing about the Sure Seal connectors. I wasn't able to get the Prestolite wire into the rubber shells on their own or even with some dish soap (great for getting wire where you want it to go, especially in conduit). Ended up running a drill bit through each opening a few times to open them up slightly and then they went in with the dish soap and using a pair of needle nose to push the wire in. I do still need to tone out each of the leads just to make sure everything is good but I don't see why it wouldn't be. |
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Originally Posted By Gixxersixxer: My hood was green while the rest was tan and I think that scared some bidders off. In the end everything was mechanically fine and I just had some painting to do. I bought a 12 pack of the 686 tan spray cans from Rapco for my M998. Took me 4 cans to do the whole topside hood and front slats. I waited until I installed the hood reinforcement kit before painting even though I didn't have to. I thought the rivets in the reinforcement kit might show on the topside of the hood but that wasn't the case. The cans came with two nozzles per can in case one wasn't cleaned well and got plugged up. The 686 tan looks good, there's a shade difference up close when the old tan is next to the new due to sun fade. A studied look can pick out a difference between the hood and the rear fenders or tailgate standing back a few feet but from a cursory glance it looks good. I need to spend some time blending the new into the old areas and it should look fine. I didn't consider the paint to be very expensive. I'm OK with the cost and coverage from a can. The surface preparation is the most important part of painting. Sand, degrease, wash, and dry all areas well that are to be painted. I'd suggest not being stingy with the paint and trying to lay it on thick all at once. Hold the spray can back about 10 inches until you get your movement down. You'll have less dense coverage initially but it will keep you from getting runs while your technique develops. As you get your technique down you can move into a 6-8 inch range. Mask off with tape and cardboard then lay down multiple coats. Don't spray while stationary, always be moving your hand and/or arm. The back and forth overlapping passes you see the pros do is a fine skill. If you try and mimic their movement you'll likely end up with runs at the extremes of the pass because you're technique is a bad and you're pausing too much before the return pass. Swallow your pride and accept you won't be as efficient as a pro. Take your time and you should be fine. its a shade too bright for my taste, but the sherwin williams carc seems to hit the green better. i have also heard of using behr paint. there are threads about it on steel soldiers and the fella i bought my truck from says he did a tan truck with it. i think he rolled most of it actually which is interesting. id have to see the result. i was getting a squeal out of my power steering whenever i turned tightly and whenever the fan clutch came on; turns out my pump belt wasnt very tight. i believe ive rectified that (im getting really fast at removing/installing v belts!). i noticed a single drop of bright green antifreeze hanging on the metal part of the lower radiator hose, which is aggravating. havent seen any pools and my level is good so im wondering what thats from. i also noticed the thick ring around my harmonic balancer isnt straight with the rest of itself. its canted just a bit, and if you watch the thing spin while idling it appears to have an elliptical travel, or at least one that isnt round. i didnt know what a harmonic balancer was three days ago so maybe thats normal. god i hope so. good work on the harness, Ryan Ruck! im looking forward to a master writeup and i hope i can pick through it to try and create one for a 6.5 NA engine. |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
its a shade too bright for my taste, but the sherwin williams carc seems to hit the green better. i have also heard of using behr paint. there are threads about it on steel soldiers and the fella i bought my truck from says he did a tan truck with it. i think he rolled most of it actually which is interesting. id have to see the result. i was getting a squeal out of my power steering whenever i turned tightly and whenever the fan clutch came on; turns out my pump belt wasnt very tight. i believe ive rectified that (im getting really fast at removing/installing v belts!). i noticed a single drop of bright green antifreeze hanging on the metal part of the lower radiator hose, which is aggravating. havent seen any pools and my level is good so im wondering what thats from. That coolant could be something as simple as a hose clamp loosening up, get in there and see if ya can't get a couple of turns on them. I had the same issue recently with a power steering hose - a couple of quarter/half turns and it went away. Speaking of coolant - I took the slantback for about an hour's drive yesterday in this gorgeous weather. All was well until about the last 20min of the drive when I noticed the temp gauge creeping up. By the time I got to the house, it was definitely running hot. I parked the truck and disconnected my TDM - and the fan wouldn't come on. So I shut her down (it puked coolant out the vent tube) and let her cool off on her own. About an hour later, I turned her back on since it had cooled down a good bit - disconnected the TDM again and the fan worked as it should. It looks like next weekend I'll be investigating if my thermostat (what I'm leaning towards) or fan control valve crapped out. Just as it looked like everything was where I wanted it to be....... |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734: That coolant could be something as simple as a hose clamp loosening up, get in there and see if ya can't get a couple of turns on them. I had the same issue recently with a power steering hose - a couple of quarter/half turns and it went away. Speaking of coolant - I took the slantback for about an hour's drive yesterday in this gorgeous weather. All was well until about the last 20min of the drive when I noticed the temp gauge creeping up. By the time I got to the house, it was definitely running hot. I parked the truck and disconnected my TDM - and the fan wouldn't come on. So I shut her down (it puked coolant out the vent tube) and let her cool off on her own. About an hour later, I turned her back on since it had cooled down a good bit - disconnected the TDM again and the fan worked as it should. It looks like next weekend I'll be investigating if my thermostat (what I'm leaning towards) or fan control valve crapped out. Just as it looked like everything was where I wanted it to be....... i hope its an easy fix for you; i know the humvee has its share of engineered issues, but i dont think it deserves the terrible rap it gets from people. i find most servicemen had the prejudice before they ever sat in one, or they like to complain about things that are just inherent to most military vehicles (no keyed igniton, no sound deadening and not weathertight). i think most of my issues stem from not having caught all the old and worn parts a 24 year old fleet vehicle has. |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
i hope its an easy fix for you; i know the humvee has its share of engineered issues, but i dont think it deserves the terrible rap it gets from people. i find most servicemen had the prejudice before they ever sat in one, or they like to complain about things that are just inherent to most military vehicles (no keyed igniton, no sound deadening and not weathertight). i think most of my issues stem from not having caught all the old and worn parts a 24 year old fleet vehicle has. Having been in the Marines in a CAAP platoon, I drove around in these trucks all the time. Have I signed out trucks that were problematic? Absolutely, but you know who is at fault for that? The last driver, who typically didn't notify anyone of the deficiencies. In a motor pool with dozens of trucks in it, none of which are assigned to any one person, of course you're going to have problems. A personally owned vehicle on the other hand, is a very different story. You have an economic and personal incentive to making sure that the truck runs and that it runs well - do you really want to spend thousands of dollars on what is essentially a toy, just to have it sit in the front yard as a lawn ornament? I sincerely doubt it - we're interested in these things, we enjoy tinkering with them, getting them dirty and then cleaning them up to show them off. Thermostat issues aside, I'd still drive either one of my trucks across the country if I was inclined to have a long, slow and loud ride. |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Heads up! If you missed the 20% off eBay deal, there's a 15% deal up now. Code "PSPRINGTIME", good until 7pm PST 3/20. Starts at 9am PST 3/20. Thanks for posting these. I've been using eBay for years and never realized these existed. Could have saved a bunch over the years had I payed closer attention. Should follow my own rule of "alcohol in moderation while on eBay" and I might have noticed! |
Went out the range this morning for work with some friends and this was my ride for the day - unarmored M1165 GMV. I've gotta tell ya - a turbo and no armor hauls ass. It's really got me reconsidering swapping things out in my truck. The truck is practically new - not even a year since reset.
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Went out the range this morning for work with some friends and this was my ride for the day - unarmored M1165 GMV. I've gotta tell ya - a turbo an no armor hauls ass. It's really got me reconsidering swapping things out in my truck. The truck is practically new - not even a year since reset. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/810/40925845511_8148f02cfc_b.jpg gonna pretend like i didnt hear any of this. |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Went out the range this morning for work with some friends and this was my ride for the day - unarmored M1165 GMV. I've gotta tell ya - a turbo and no armor hauls ass. It's really got me reconsidering swapping things out in my truck. The truck is practically new - not even a year since reset. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/810/40925845511_8148f02cfc_b.jpg |
Here's the shot of my harness. I'll annotate it with measurements and leads when I do the final writeup.
 Also, for anyone who hasn't seen the inside of a military TCM here's a couple pics of mine so if you buy one, you know what you'll be buying: 
As you can see, it's pretty much just a civilian TCM in there. Not sure what this is as it has no markings. 
A word of warning on the military TCMs. Despite all of the mil spec seals, plugs, and housing moisture can still get inside these and trash the TCM. So, if you buy one, crack it open and check for moisture intrusion and any corrosion on the board. Then after you crack it open, toss in a desiccant pack and run a bead of silicone around the lid seal. Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Went out the range this morning for work with some friends and this was my ride for the day - unarmored M1165 GMV. I've gotta tell ya - a turbo and no armor hauls ass. It's really got me reconsidering swapping things out in my truck. The truck is practically new - not even a year since reset. https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/810/40925845511_8148f02cfc_b.jpg 
And thanks for the pic of the truck! Cool to see a brand new GMV! |
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Originally Posted By FKAM:
Lawman, Very cool, you give me hope that I still may find the parts I need to finish my build, Looks like they are still using the parts I need, hopefully they will hit the market someday instead of the scrap pile or impact area. (One piece C-pillar, slats, rear MG mounts and others) |
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lol. eyeball defilade. i tend to shoot a little low for my goals, then want the more expensive option quickly after. im telling myself i dont know how to swap engines and i dont want to spend the money. but a turbo ecv truck sounds awesome. i never rode in or drove one that wasnt an air force uparmored with a turret and those were dogs, as you can imagine. anybody want a 1953 usmc m38a1? |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
https://i.imgur.com/uhvIGnk.jpg lol. eyeball defilade. i tend to shoot a little low for my goals, then want the more expensive option quickly after. im telling myself i dont know how to swap engines and i dont want to spend the money. but a turbo ecv truck sounds awesome. i never rode in or drove one that wasnt an air force uparmored with a turret and those were dogs, as you can imagine. Now I could pull the engine and go the true ECV route - or do an aftermarket turbo add-in. My friend is developing a kit that looks really promising and wouldn't require pulling the current engine. The kit would certainly be cheaper, but engines are available now. |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
That's what I did with my trucks - I told myself I had perfectly good 6.5's in both trucks so didn't "need" a turbo. After yesterday, I'm reconsidering that - at least for my GMV. The 4-speed is definitely a nice improvement but that turbo really wakes it up. Now I could pull the engine and go the true ECV route - or do an aftermarket turbo add-in. My friend is developing a kit that looks really promising and wouldn't require pulling the current engine. The kit would certainly be cheaper, but engines are available now. Originally Posted By Lawman734:
Originally Posted By Aguas:
https://i.imgur.com/uhvIGnk.jpg lol. eyeball defilade. i tend to shoot a little low for my goals, then want the more expensive option quickly after. im telling myself i dont know how to swap engines and i dont want to spend the money. but a turbo ecv truck sounds awesome. i never rode in or drove one that wasnt an air force uparmored with a turret and those were dogs, as you can imagine. Now I could pull the engine and go the true ECV route - or do an aftermarket turbo add-in. My friend is developing a kit that looks really promising and wouldn't require pulling the current engine. The kit would certainly be cheaper, but engines are available now. I didn't like the thought of ditching my perfectly good 6.2 with only 44k on it but there are no readily available add-on turbo options for it. Folks with an even newer GEP 6.5 probably hate to part with theirs even moreso but again, no easy turbo options. Lots of trucks out there with perfectly good engines with no real options except for an entire drivetrain swap to get more power in their truck. Then there's another benefit of a turbo kit for trucks with running engines - the appeal of someone not needing to flip the coin on a takeout drivetrain. I still have no idea if mine will even run, it just looks pretty clean. |
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im still having doubts about my new civilian drivebelts. this past weekend i took 3 back off so i could tighten the one that goes around the power steering, it was loose and causing a squeak whenever the fan would clutch in, or on near complete wheel lock turns. that seems to be back to normal, but i seem to have even more aggressive flap on the 3 long belts. its pretty loud! i pull as hard as i can with a half inch drive breakdown bar hooked into the tensioning bracket while i tighten the nut. i think part of the issue may be my commercially sourced belts which are cogged. i even ordered another set of the military goodyear belts but received the same hopelessly twisted and dry set that came with my alternator kit in the first place. i cant seem to find new manufacture commercial v belts that arent cogged anymore, or the NOS military belts that arent wadded into pretzel shapes for 10 years. any ideas? i remember hearing some slap from my 2 and 2 configuration before i did the alt upgrade, but this is even more prominent. i keep reading that belt slap is normal for these, that it evens out as the engine warms up, and that there are even provisions for upper radiator hose shielding to keep from being slapped to death by the belts. mine do not reach the hose by a good inch, but they do wobble side to side and snap up and down like crazy. it would help to know what other trucks are doing, so i can see what is normal. it doesnt seem to be causing issues. i can see why they went to a serpentine setup! |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
or the NOS military belts that arent wadded into pretzel shapes for 10 years. any ideas? i remember hearing some slap from my 2 and 2 configuration before i did the alt upgrade, but this is even more prominent. i keep reading that belt slap is normal for these, that it evens out as the engine warms up, and that there are even provisions for upper radiator hose shielding to keep from being slapped to death by the belts. mine do not reach the hose by a good inch, but they do wobble side to side and snap up and down like crazy. it would help to know what other trucks are doing, so i can see what is normal. it doesnt seem to be causing issues. i can see why they went to a serpentine setup! A while back I bought some NOS belts that were twisted like you mentioned. I have used a couple of them and they seem to be working fine so far, we'll see.... |
Got a present from Big Brown Santa today! I got some unexpected money so ordered something useful earlier this week. Some Centramatics!
Took it on a quick trip into town and hit 60. They've eliminated about 90% of my tire bounce. Huge improvement. I'm thinking I must have some tire cupping going on to still have any bounce after these. I picked them up from HitchSource.com. They had the cheapest price and free shipping. They just drop ship them direct from Centramatic. Originally Posted By Aguas:
im still having doubts about my new civilian drivebelts. this past weekend i took 3 back off so i could tighten the one that goes around the power steering, it was loose and causing a squeak whenever the fan would clutch in, or on near complete wheel lock turns. that seems to be back to normal, but i seem to have even more aggressive flap on the 3 long belts. its pretty loud! i pull as hard as i can with a half inch drive breakdown bar hooked into the tensioning bracket while i tighten the nut. i think part of the issue may be my commercially sourced belts which are cogged. i even ordered another set of the military goodyear belts but received the same hopelessly twisted and dry set that came with my alternator kit in the first place. i cant seem to find new manufacture commercial v belts that arent cogged anymore, or the NOS military belts that arent wadded into pretzel shapes for 10 years. any ideas? i remember hearing some slap from my 2 and 2 configuration before i did the alt upgrade, but this is even more prominent. i keep reading that belt slap is normal for these, that it evens out as the engine warms up, and that there are even provisions for upper radiator hose shielding to keep from being slapped to death by the belts. mine do not reach the hose by a good inch, but they do wobble side to side and snap up and down like crazy. it would help to know what other trucks are doing, so i can see what is normal. it doesnt seem to be causing issues. i can see why they went to a serpentine setup! I did have my engine running earlier. I should have taken some video for you to compare. We're supposed to have a bit of snow here tomorrow so if I get the truck out to play in it, I'll be sure to. There is a good bit of vertical movement and a little side to side on my belts. I was surprised at how much when I first got my truck but it's never been an issue in the nearly 5k miles I've put on my truck. The squealing at full steering lock doesn't sound right but I do get a very slight squeal when the fan kicks in. In full disclosure, I never replaced my original V belts since they didn't look cracked or heavily worn but it's not like that will be an issue much longer.
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i didnt check any of those, but i went on a sojourn on the advice of a wrench turner (maybe it was retired war horses) on steel soldiers, and used first one of those sites that alqays pops up when you do a military part search (wc parts or something like that). then i plugged some of the other part numbers into napa and found some grant belts. i ordered them on amazon because they were $10 a belt cheaper than local parts stores that also had to order them.
then i re-read the thread and someone had already posted the grant belt number for me. oops. i think the issue may be that the cogged v belt is thinner in profile, and just easier to bend. like a rubber band. the goodyear is a full v profile, and more fibery and tough. i think that would eliminate alot of the side to side that im getting with the grants. its interesting you bring up wheel bounce. i just started noticing bounce around 30 mph and it feels like its driver front doing it. after 30 mph it levels back out. i figured something in my suspension had just begun to show signs of wearing out so i have some learnin' and messing around to do. i know the main parts but not the symptoms of their problems so im going to be youtubing and googling alot. are those discs you got just for extra balanced weight at the wheel? ive never seen something like that. |
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
i didnt check any of those, but i went on a sojourn on the advice of a wrench turner (maybe it was retired war horses) on steel soldiers, and used first one of those sites that alqays pops up when you do a military part search (wc parts or something like that). then i plugged some of the other part numbers into napa and found some grant belts. i ordered them on amazon because they were $10 a belt cheaper than local parts stores that also had to order them. then i re-read the thread and someone had already posted the grant belt number for me. oops. i think the issue may be that the cogged v belt is thinner in profile, and just easier to bend. like a rubber band. the goodyear is a full v profile, and more fibery and tough. i think that would eliminate alot of the side to side that im getting with the grants. Originally Posted By Aguas:
i didnt check any of those, but i went on a sojourn on the advice of a wrench turner (maybe it was retired war horses) on steel soldiers, and used first one of those sites that alqays pops up when you do a military part search (wc parts or something like that). then i plugged some of the other part numbers into napa and found some grant belts. i ordered them on amazon because they were $10 a belt cheaper than local parts stores that also had to order them. then i re-read the thread and someone had already posted the grant belt number for me. oops. i think the issue may be that the cogged v belt is thinner in profile, and just easier to bend. like a rubber band. the goodyear is a full v profile, and more fibery and tough. i think that would eliminate alot of the side to side that im getting with the grants. I'll cheap put the cheap belts on my zero turn but when it comes to auto belts I always prefer Goodyear or OEM. I had to get a new serpentine belt for my 6.5T since they cut the nearly new Goodyear Gatorback that was on there to pull the alternator (  ). Ended up getting an OEM from HPG.
Originally Posted By Aguas:
its interesting you bring up wheel bounce. i just started noticing bounce around 30 mph and it feels like its driver front doing it. after 30 mph it levels back out. i figured something in my suspension had just begun to show signs of wearing out so i have some learnin' and messing around to do. i know the main parts but not the symptoms of their problems so im going to be youtubing and googling alot. are those discs you got just for extra balanced weight at the wheel? ive never seen something like that. Those discs are automatic wheel balancers. They've got small bearings and viscous fluid in them and automatically balance the tire:  How Centramatic Balancers Work |
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FWIW: Here of late I've noticed quite a few of the Parts we've ordered from one of the well known suppliers are Chinese knock-offs. (they look cheap and often have "issues" to the point we've had to either repair or return them)
I check this thread once in a while, and while I'm no "expert" on every single model, I have worked on pretty much all of them over the last 15 years.
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Failing to prepare is preparing to fail.
WECSOG Graduate
WECSOG Graduate
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
i didnt check any of those, but i went on a sojourn on the advice of a wrench turner (maybe it was retired war horses) on steel soldiers, and used first one of those sites that alqays pops up when you do a military part search (wc parts or something like that). then i plugged some of the other part numbers into napa and found some grant belts. i ordered them on amazon because they were $10 a belt cheaper than local parts stores that also had to order them. then i re-read the thread and someone had already posted the grant belt number for me. oops. i think the issue may be that the cogged v belt is thinner in profile, and just easier to bend. like a rubber band. the goodyear is a full v profile, and more fibery and tough. i think that would eliminate alot of the side to side that im getting with the grants. its interesting you bring up wheel bounce. i just started noticing bounce around 30 mph and it feels like its driver front doing it. after 30 mph it levels back out. i figured something in my suspension had just begun to show signs of wearing out so i have some learnin' and messing around to do. i know the main parts but not the symptoms of their problems so im going to be youtubing and googling alot. are those discs you got just for extra balanced weight at the wheel? ive never seen something like that. |
Failing to prepare is preparing to fail.
WECSOG Graduate
WECSOG Graduate
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Originally Posted By fp1201:
FWIW: Here of late I've noticed quite a few of the Parts we've ordered from one of the well known suppliers are Chinese knock-offs. (they look cheap and often have "issues" to the point we've had to either repair or return them) I check this thread once in a while, and while I'm no "expert" on every single model, I have worked on pretty much all of them over the last 15 years. That's concerning. You able to name any names on who's been shipping Chinese parts? I found out that Wolfer Parts/ComTac/JAWmilitary reportedly sells Chinese sourced halfshafts and ball joints and they say they're a DLA/TACOM supplier. I've got some HD ball joints I purchased from them long before I found out about this and I've been going back and forth on installing them or just getting others. I'm thinking I'll just install them and put them to the test to see how well they hold up. |
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Anyone see the GP email about one of the HMMWVs from The Long Road Home coming up for auction this Wednesday?
It's an M1045A2: http://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Humvees-2001-AM-General-M1045A2-HMMWV-4-Door-Hard-Top-w%2FSlant-Back-The-Long-Road-Home-Georgia/927617 |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
@fp1201 That's concerning. You able to name any names on who's been shipping Chinese parts? I found out that Wolfer Parts/ComTac/JAWmilitary reportedly sells Chinese sourced halfshafts and ball joints and they say they're a DLA/TACOM supplier. I've got some HD ball joints I purchased from them long before I found out about this and I've been going back and forth on installing them or just getting others. I'm thinking I'll just install them and put them to the test to see how well they hold up. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Or is it Kascar selling knock off parts as we have both had? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Or is it Kascar selling knock off parts as we have both had? Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
@fp1201 That's concerning. You able to name any names on who's been shipping Chinese parts? I found out that Wolfer Parts/ComTac/JAWmilitary reportedly sells Chinese sourced halfshafts and ball joints and they say they're a DLA/TACOM supplier. I've got some HD ball joints I purchased from them long before I found out about this and I've been going back and forth on installing them or just getting others. I'm thinking I'll just install them and put them to the test to see how well they hold up. 
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Here are some pics from last summer,this winter I added a rear airlift bumper,some mud flaps and backup lights.
Also added the factory antenna mounts and some antennas,a CB radio along with the digital light switch. Been trying to go thru the beast and make sure things are up to snuff before summer gets here. Anyone know where to get a factory tach mount? I have a tach but so far nowhere to put it.this thing might be more expensive than guns 
Here are some pre mod pics,and yes I have license plates for it so this summer should be a great time. Pete Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734:
I'd be pretty disappointed if it was Kascar. Granted, it's been a while since I've purchased anything from them, but they were known as the go-to place for "real" stuff. The prices were higher than most, but not insane - it'd be a damned shame if they started opting for China crap versus OEM. Originally Posted By Lawman734:
I'd be pretty disappointed if it was Kascar. Granted, it's been a while since I've purchased anything from them, but they were known as the go-to place for "real" stuff. The prices were higher than most, but not insane - it'd be a damned shame if they started opting for China crap versus OEM. Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Careful what you post on here. That'll get you a phone call from them! |
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Originally Posted By icecold1:
Here are some pics from last summer,this winter I added a rear airlift bumper,some mud flaps and backup lights. Also added the factory antenna mounts and some antennas,a CB radio along with the digital light switch. Been trying to go thru the beast and make sure things are up to snuff before summer gets here. Here are some pre mod pics,and yes I have license plates for it so this summer should be a great time. Pete |
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Originally Posted By Lawman734: That's a good looking truck - it doesn't even look like the CARC has faded yet. But it obviously is in nice shape and I'm very happy with ir. Pete |
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Originally Posted By icecold1:
Here are some pics from last summer,this winter I added a rear airlift bumper,some mud flaps and backup lights. Also added the factory antenna mounts and some antennas,a CB radio along with the digital light switch. Been trying to go thru the beast and make sure things are up to snuff before summer gets here. Anyone know where to get a factory tach mount? I have a tach but so far nowhere to put it.this thing might be more expensive than guns
Here are some pre mod pics,and yes I have license plates for it so this summer should be a great time. Pete https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/129961/image-495128.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/129961/image-495129.JPG
Nice looking truck! Looks like you've even got a fairly new rear cargo cover. The rest of the soft parts as new? You mentioned you've got the push button light switch. Don't know how familiar you are with them but the first gen switches (the vast majority of the ones out there) can burn up and take your truck with it. I suggest 3 things if you want to use it safely. 1) Make absolutely sure you've got it very well grounded. 2) Strongly consider wiring a fuse into the power lead in (Pin F, see attached pic). I haven't done figuring to know how big of a fuse you'd need but a rough guestimate says a 10 or 15A should be sufficient on the 24v lighting system. 3) Upgrade all of your lights to LEDs as they have less of a chance to short out than the incandescents and cause the situation where the MVLS will burn up (it only takes one, including a marker light). The Gen 2 and 3 versions (IIRC) of the switch have internal short protection and won't burn up like the Gen 1s. I bought one from Those Military Guys via eBay before I even took delivery of my truck. Tried to install it after I got my truck only to find it nonfunctional and TMGs refusing to respond to any correspondence about the $150 switch. So I got in touch with Esterline for some assistance in diagnosing it. They were nice enough to provide me some in depth information on it (after filling out some export control paperwork). Didn't help. Got stuck with a $150 paperweight. 
Attached File (Not my drawing, was included in the documentation from Esterline) For the tach mount, you could try getting in touch with 86humv and see if he has one. I just got an AutoMeter 5204 mount and put mine on the dash. ETA: Your truck definitely doesn't just have 2800 miles on it. That's likely 2800 miles since its depot reset. Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
I forgot all about that. What page is that one so the newer people can see it? 
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Originally Posted By Aguas:
replace the three lever light switch? oh guys. that hits me right in the milspec. even my 53 willys has that switch (its metal). next youll be wanting to have other than OD seat covers, or want a cab that doesnt leak. And an addendum, I was mistaken about there being a Gen 2 in my last post (was going from memory). Turns out they skipped over that and went straight to the Gen 3. Here's the part numbers to ID them: Gen 1 - 5930-01-491-9893, 12484558 (Esterline PN - 9375-00117) Gen 3 - 6220-01-586-5430, 12484558 (Esterline PN - 9375-00311) As you can see, the PN from TACOM is the same for both so go by the NSN or Esterline PN to correctly ID it. The Gen 3 besides having internal short protection also apparently has some basic onboard diagnostic/error recording from what they told me so it's definitely an improvement over the Gen 1 that seems to correct all of the issues with it. |
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Heads up in case anyone didn't know about this but Shell is running a year long rebate on Rotella. It only applies to their T5 synthetic blend and T6 full synthetic versions though, not the T4 that Sam's Club carries. Amazon does carry the T5 and T6 though and the rebate puts the T6 from them right around the price of the T4 at Sam's price.
http://rotella.shell.com/coupons-rebates-and-sweepstakes/better-fuel-economy-meets-better-wallet-economy.html Offer period is January 1, 2018 - December 31, 2018. Online rebate offer To receive your rebate by mail, purchase one or more of the following qualifying Shell ROTELLA® heavy duty diesel engine oils at any participating retailer: 1 - gallon bottle of Shell ROTELLA® T5 Synthetic Blend Technology or Shell ROTELLA® T5 Ultra 10W-30 Synthetic Blend Technology heavy-duty diesel engine oil and earn $5 1 - gallon bottle of Shell ROTELLA® T6 Full Synthetic or Shell ROTELLA® T6 Multi-Vehicle 5W-30 Full Synthetic heavy-duty diesel engine oil and earn $7 2.5 - gallon bottle of Shell ROTELLA® T5 Synthetic Blend Technology heavy-duty diesel engine oil and earn $12.50 2.5 - gallon bottle of Shell ROTELLA® T6 Full Synthetic heavy-duty diesel engine oil and earn $17.50 5 - gallon pail of Shell ROTELLA® T6 Full Synthetic heavy-duty diesel engine oil and earn $35 |
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Ryan,thanks for the heads up on the switch,this is the switch installed,Looks to be gen 1, so I think I'll take your advice and install a 10 a inline fuse on the hot wire for some insurance.just my typical luck to get the older shitty unit.
Thanks for the pin out that makes it easy. I do have one question can anyone tell me what pin is supposed to be at the top od the trailer plug,when I had mine off I did not mark it and now I'm not sure how it was orentated. I'll try to update some more pics if I get it out of the garage this weekend with all my new mods. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
@fp1201 That's concerning. You able to name any names on who's been shipping Chinese parts? I found out that Wolfer Parts/ComTac/JAWmilitary reportedly sells Chinese sourced halfshafts and ball joints and they say they're a DLA/TACOM supplier. I've got some HD ball joints I purchased from them long before I found out about this and I've been going back and forth on installing them or just getting others. I'm thinking I'll just install them and put them to the test to see how well they hold up. Take a long and hard look at America: If the Chinese ever take us to War or stop supplying us, we're going to be going without a lot of stuff for a very long time.
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Failing to prepare is preparing to fail.
WECSOG Graduate
WECSOG Graduate
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Originally Posted By fp1201:
I'm pretty sure the Parts we installed came from MAC: the stuff was even still in the bamboo made cardboard (Asian stuff uses that yellowish, different texture cardboard) Sure it worked, but how well and long it lasts is to be determined. Some of the parts that come directly to mind were the multi-function headlight switch, Mirror assy, and tail lights...Ball joints I haven't noticed yet. Take a long and hard look at America: If the Chinese ever take us to War or stop supplying us, we're going to be going without a lot of stuff for a very long time. Originally Posted By fp1201:
Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
@fp1201 That's concerning. You able to name any names on who's been shipping Chinese parts? I found out that Wolfer Parts/ComTac/JAWmilitary reportedly sells Chinese sourced halfshafts and ball joints and they say they're a DLA/TACOM supplier. I've got some HD ball joints I purchased from them long before I found out about this and I've been going back and forth on installing them or just getting others. I'm thinking I'll just install them and put them to the test to see how well they hold up. Take a long and hard look at America: If the Chinese ever take us to War or stop supplying us, we're going to be going without a lot of stuff for a very long time. Not surprised that the parts would include mirrors. I've noticed those seem to be in very high demand and prices have really shot up in the last 1-1.5 years. I am surprised at the light switch being imported. |
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do i need a m1101 trailer? im leaning towards no but a good looking one is for sale in KY. i dont have a ton of land to require a brush trailer; the humvee or the pickup bed can carry what little i need to haul to the burn pile. and my wife buys hay from too far away to go get some with the humvee. besides, hay got in everything last time i filled the 2 man up with it. i think ill use the money to purchase the larger missing parts for a 4l80e conversion. anyone have one? |
So You Want To Buy A Surplus HMMWV/Humvee - A How-To Guide (And All Other Things HMMWV Too!) (Page 50 of 102)
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