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Posted: 2/15/2023 7:36:30 PM EDT
Anybody ever do a small shed or garage using tilt wall construction?
Wife works evening sometimes from home and I can’t shoot off the back porch like I’d like to when I want. If I built a concrete structure 30 yards down range, it would still be 100 yards. I envision pouring a slab with stepped down drip edge with some steel embedded. Then using concrete release pour the wall using same metal embedded and weld together to fix in place. Roof obviously wouldn’t be concrete. All I’d need is a door and window facing down range. I figure 3.5 thickness all the way around except for footers. Thoughts? Stupid or would work? Heat |
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Diy precast?
What could go wrong Why not just form and pour the walls? Or CMU like suggested. |
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Skeet club has precast concrete skeet houses. Walls are 4" and were cast offsite and crane set, roof is also a precast slab. The elevated floor is also precast (buildings have low house at ground level for one field, an elevated floor which carries the high house trap for the adjacent field, then a precast roof.
Not really a problem with good concrete, really good release agent & proper reinforcing. I'd think challenge might be floor space. Are you going to cast one panel, stand it, cast another panel stand it, etc. Or is the floor going to allow casting all panels? The precast panels we used were cast with a high early strength concrete were at over 4000 psi in just a few days. Hard to do at home in back yard. |
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If it's DIY but you want monolithic concrete, why not ICF?
Or try looking up IsulDeck, which I think has a tilt product. Unsure if it would pencil out any better than ICF, especially for a small project. |
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Quoted: Concrete Masonry Unit. You would deed to fill the voids with concrete View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What is cmu? Cinder block Concrete Masonry Unit. You would deed to fill the voids with concrete Ok….concrete blocks sound good! Fill voids with concrete or. Dry stack or ? I’ve never worked with mortar before…dry stack might be the answer? |
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Quoted: Ok….concrete blocks sound good! Fill voids with concrete or. Dry stack or ? I’ve never worked with mortar before…dry stack might be the answer? View Quote How to Lay Block Walls For Beginners |
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Why not just use a bond beam block? |
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I would think ICF would be significantly quieter and relatively easy.
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Quoted: Why not just use a bond beam block? |
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6" core ICF, you end up with an insulated building you can heat and or cool.
If you are going to do pre-cast look at the way Superior Walls form their pre-cast walls, with a face shell and concrete "studs" 16" on-center. |
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Over 3 decades in precast. Just because you can does not mean you should. That said, it is an interesting idea. I don’t think it would be the cheapest or most efficient way to do it but it may be cool to say you did it. How tall are you thinking the walls would be? 8 or 10’ would not require crazy high strength concrete and could probably be made 4” thick.
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Pour a footing with vertical rebar at 16"oc. Dry stack 6" CMU. Hire a pump crane. Fill CMU.
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Quoted: Are you talking bond beam or knockouts ? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: We just drop verts down the core before filling them. Knockouts would be a lot easier . Vertical rebar in the corners and every 4ft plus core fill/slurry. Horizontal rebar and dura wall every 3rd course and core fill. Edit: Op if you get knockouts keep in mind they are fragile until laid and filled. Expect broken units and keep track of them, your supplier should reimburse |
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Quoted: Than build a berm. You think a concrete wall is going to hold up against thousands of projectiles? Sure great cover in a battle but not long term, no fucking way. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Op has a large tractor and an excavator. Than build a berm. You think a concrete wall is going to hold up against thousands of projectiles? Sure great cover in a battle but not long term, no fucking way. I don’t understand. I’m making a shoot house to shoot out of. I shoot into a giant berm at the other end. |
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Quoted: You could I guess, two different applications tho,you wouldn't have the vertical dowel with the bond beam View Quote You just knock a hole in it where you want vertical grout cells. Normal lightweight concrete block is 3/8" smaller than stated dimension because its meant to have 3/8" grout to stay on module. |
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Quoted: You just knock a hole in it where you want vertical grout cells. Normal lightweight concrete block is 3/8" smaller than stated dimension because its meant to have 3/8" grout to stay on module. View Quote It's not exactly easy to knock a hole in a bond beam block. It's more likely that it'll split lengthwise and piss you off. |
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Quoted: You just knock a hole in it where you want vertical grout cells. Normal lightweight concrete block is 3/8" smaller than stated dimension because its meant to have 3/8" grout to stay on module. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: You could I guess, two different applications tho,you wouldn't have the vertical dowel with the bond beam You just knock a hole in it where you want vertical grout cells. Normal lightweight concrete block is 3/8" smaller than stated dimension because its meant to have 3/8" grout to stay on module. Why would you need to put a hole in the block? The only time we do anything like that is if we have to cut our own bond beams, two cuts in the web and pop it with a hammer. Otherwise I just paint the bottom course where our verts are tied in to the footing, and we fish the full length pieces down after the wall is up. I've never really seen it spec'd any different than that other than maybe the addition of ladder mesh (which I think is retarded and would rather just use a bond beam and grout it) |
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Why do you want concrete?
I'd think a stick framed and insulated wall would be cheaper, easier, and quieter both inside and out. I'm assuming noise transmission is a concern due to mentioning your wife working from home. |
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3.5" is thin for a tilt wall. I haven't seen lifting eyes than would work on that without being a total hack job.
I would cast the walls in place. You're far more likely to paper napkin the design on CIP wall than you are tilt walls. |
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Does a roof really help with sound mitigation? i don’t imagine you have any neighbors above you.
I’m planning to use those big solid concrete Lego blocks (typically 4’x2’x2’) and stack them with an excavator. I think they can be acquired for ~$150/each. What’s nice about those is that you can move and repurpose them as needed, and should be a lot easier than CMU, mortar, rebar and the like. |
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Homemade Air Crete Shed |
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Build it with concrete blocks and fill the cells with rebar and concrete.
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