be sure to take too many pics,
as in a pic of each and every flaw, scratch, wear mark etc,
pluse lots of overall pics,
I typically have at least 20 for every firearm I list,
neutral background,
well lit, or if possible , take pics in the bright shade outside
be sure the firearm is clean, and dry (not dripping of lube)
you will get low ball offers,
you will get asked if you have a Buy It Now
you will get asked if you take trades (I have a beat up Iver Johnson revolver from 1908 if you are interested, and I'll toss in 4 pieces of brass for it that have been stepped on)
you will get crazy questions (is that mark at 6oclock in picture 238 from the lighting, or a piece of lint, is it rust?)
you will get offers to end the auction right now and I'll pay you $$$$, (usually when this happens, I sell the firearm for more than the offer, and the offer was more than I listed for)
you cannot end an auction early once it has a bid, it will have to run it's course,
be sure to proof read you listing
start it (it only costs 10 cents) for a Sun or Mon night, after 10 PM EST
payments, whatever you feel comfortable with,
money order, Cashier Checks, personal Checks (clear before mailing)
also, let the buyers know how you ship (UPS, USPS, etc) and let them know you ship w/in 48 hrs etc,
if not you will get hounded with emails wanting to know tracking numbers and why there is no movement (we call these folks F5 bandits,, the are usually Amazon shoppers that expect everything to ship 3.6 seconds after it is paid, and want it delivered by drone in a day,,)
only ship to the premise address on the FFL,,
and be sure to give the FFL a copy of you DL (you can redact the numbers, but they need proof it is you and an address (physical address, not PO box)
some dealers are dicks about receiving from individuals for no reason, but it is their business to do as they please (Saying that as a FFL/sOT)