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Posted: 11/12/2021 5:12:32 AM EDT
[#1]
SAE30 is used all the time at 40F. When you get to 0 and below, you should look at synthetic and a good battery.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 5:15:31 AM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:40:08 AM EDT
[#3]
Dude.
You should change the oil to a fully synthetic racing oil like Mobil 1. Make sure you change transmission fluid to a fully synthetic brand. Also I think you should be getting brand new tires. the kind for agricultural uses. Make sure you grease the entire tractor properly and check the air pressure in your tires. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:41:30 AM EDT
[#4]
All joking aside are you sure you're qualified to drop three trees?
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:43:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Lawn tractor won't care. If your worried about it, let it warm up at idle before doing any work.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:45:30 AM EDT
[#6]
It will be fine.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:47:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All joking aside are you sure you're qualified to drop three trees? 
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:53:05 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It will be fine. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 8:35:03 AM EDT
[#9]
I run 5-30 in my JD, all year long.
Whether it's 90 in the summer heat or 0 and plowing snow. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 8:46:23 AM EDT
[#10]
Decent straight 30w oils are hard to find and are a thing of the past imho.
Rotella T6 15-40 or 5-40 is what you seek. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 8:56:44 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All joking aside are you sure you're qualified to drop three trees? @DK-Prof |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 9:27:08 AM EDT
[#12]
No reason not to use 5w30/10w30. Personally I use synthetic 10w30 and the pull start has much less resistance. Also the zero turn starts faster easier.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 9:45:01 AM EDT
[#13]
 Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up.  Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. 
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Posted: 11/12/2021 9:56:57 AM EDT
[#14]
If you're concerned, change it to 10w-30. My Generac portable generator recommends 10w-30 if used below 30*. I figured it is mostly for ease of starting, which is why multi viscosity oil was developed in the first place.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 10:30:11 AM EDT
[#15]
Every small engine I have, from my Honda weed whacker to my generators to my Deere tractor gets 5w30 full synthetic. Actually, come to think of it, every gas engine I own, including my 6 vehicles (no diesels)..
I buy the 5-quart jugs from Walmart (Supertech) or Costco (Kirkland). If I could, I'd just buy a pallet once a year. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 10:36:58 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Every small engine I have, from my Honda weed whacker to my generators to my Deere tractor gets 5w30 full synthetic. Actually, come to think of it, every gas engine I own, including my 6 vehicles (no diesels).. I buy the 5-quart jugs from Walmart (Supertech) or Costco (Kirkland). If I could, I'd just buy a pallet once a year. I mean, you can. You’re in Michigan. I’ll deliver it to you. Shipping is free. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 12:40:37 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. I run straight 40W in my 250k 5.2L engine. It burns a little, and 40W keeps the oil pressure gauge up when I slow down after a long time on the highway. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 1:20:01 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I run straight 40W in my 250k 5.2L engine. It burns a little, and 40W keeps the oil pressure gauge up when I slow down after a long time on the highway. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. I run straight 40W in my 250k 5.2L engine. It burns a little, and 40W keeps the oil pressure gauge up when I slow down after a long time on the highway. You do you, but you're reasoning isn't logical. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 6:39:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You do you, but you're reasoning isn't logical. Beats having to tear down the engine to replace the oil pump cam lobe. You got a better idea? When the engine is eventually torn down & rebuilt, I'll go back to the factory specs of 10W-30. It's not like I generally see any particularly cold weather. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 6:42:40 PM EDT
[#20]
quality 5W30 synthetic....and don't overthink it....i don't see any reason to use a non-detergent straight weight oil at this point
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Posted: 11/12/2021 6:44:34 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/665D1B86-C4EF-44D1-B533-2F5B66A85CFB-2163956.jpg Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/ISOchart-532916.png Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. If no straight weights, then what do for gennys and mowers and ZTs and old school walk behind cast iron Gravelys and such? Thx! |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 6:59:23 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: quality 5W30 synthetic....and don't overthink it....i don't see any reason to use a non-detergent straight weight oil at this point Good lord, don't use a non-detergent oil in anything but a chain saw or an OLD antique car. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:23:27 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If no straight weights, then what do for gennys and mowers and ZTs and old school walk behind cast iron Gravelys and such? Thx! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/665D1B86-C4EF-44D1-B533-2F5B66A85CFB-2163956.jpg Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/ISOchart-532916.png Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. If no straight weights, then what do for gennys and mowers and ZTs and old school walk behind cast iron Gravelys and such? Thx! If it calls for SAE Detergent motor oil is called for: The appropriate straight weight can be directly replaced with it's multi-viscosity brother. So a 30w will be replaced with a 5w30 or a 10w30. Because remember, as the chart shows: They will be a 30w at operational temps. So at 212F / 100C - a 30w, a 5w30, 10w30, 0w30 - are all the same viscosity range. If it calls for a NON-Detergent motor oil - NOTICE NON-DETERGENT STANDARDS. 20w non-detergent can be crossed to R&O 68 30w Non-detergent can be crossed to R&O 100 40w Non-Detergent can be crossed to R&O 150 R&O Stands for Rust and Oxidation. Still very popular for industrial settings. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:28:03 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Beats having to tear down the engine to replace the oil pump cam lobe. You got a better idea? When the engine is eventually torn down & rebuilt, I'll go back to the factory specs of 10W-30. It's not like I generally see any particularly cold weather. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You do you, but you're reasoning isn't logical. Beats having to tear down the engine to replace the oil pump cam lobe. You got a better idea? When the engine is eventually torn down & rebuilt, I'll go back to the factory specs of 10W-30. It's not like I generally see any particularly cold weather. They're all a 30w at operational temps. Your oil pump is working substantially harder moving a straight 30w, then it is a 5w30 when cold. I mean, a lot harder. The charts show it. Even when cold might be 100F - it's still a BIG difference. Also the last time you could meet engine spec's with a straight 30w was SF. Which was 'current' spec from 1979 to 1988. Oil has changed a lot in 30+ years. Just say'n. |
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Posted: 11/12/2021 7:33:20 PM EDT
[#25]
I thought 10w-30 synthetic was good for both hot and cold temperatures, and 30w was used in 40deg and higher.
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Posted: 11/12/2021 9:05:15 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I mean, you can. You’re in Michigan. I’ll deliver it to you. Shipping is free. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Every small engine I have, from my Honda weed whacker to my generators to my Deere tractor gets 5w30 full synthetic. Actually, come to think of it, every gas engine I own, including my 6 vehicles (no diesels).. I buy the 5-quart jugs from Walmart (Supertech) or Costco (Kirkland). If I could, I'd just buy a pallet once a year. I mean, you can. You’re in Michigan. I’ll deliver it to you. Shipping is free. EE listing for oil?
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Posted: 11/13/2021 12:40:42 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They're all a 30w at operational temps. Your oil pump is working substantially harder moving a straight 30w, then it is a 5w30 when cold. I mean, a lot harder. The charts show it. Even when cold might be 100F - it's still a BIG difference. Also the last time you could meet engine spec's with a straight 30w was SF. Which was 'current' spec from 1979 to 1988. Oil has changed a lot in 30+ years. Just say'n. When I ran 10w-30, when the engine drops to idle after getting warm, my oil pressure gauge drops to zero and I have to goose the engine to maintain oil pressure. Running 30W, that only happens if the oil is low or I come off a long highway drive - I have even less of an issue when running 40W. So if you've got a better idea that doesn't involve me tearing down an engine to replace the oil pump camshaft lobe, I'm all ears. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 2:02:40 PM EDT
[#28]
Oil threads have now replaced chili threads as some of my favorite GD threads.
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Posted: 11/13/2021 2:05:59 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When I ran 10w-30, when the engine drops to idle after getting warm, my oil pressure gauge drops to zero and I have to goose the engine to maintain oil pressure. Running 30W, that only happens if the oil is low or I come off a long highway drive - I have even less of an issue when running 40W. So if you've got a better idea that doesn't involve me tearing down an engine to replace the oil pump camshaft lobe, I'm all ears. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: They're all a 30w at operational temps. Your oil pump is working substantially harder moving a straight 30w, then it is a 5w30 when cold. I mean, a lot harder. The charts show it. Even when cold might be 100F - it's still a BIG difference. Also the last time you could meet engine spec's with a straight 30w was SF. Which was 'current' spec from 1979 to 1988. Oil has changed a lot in 30+ years. Just say'n. When I ran 10w-30, when the engine drops to idle after getting warm, my oil pressure gauge drops to zero and I have to goose the engine to maintain oil pressure. Running 30W, that only happens if the oil is low or I come off a long highway drive - I have even less of an issue when running 40W. So if you've got a better idea that doesn't involve me tearing down an engine to replace the oil pump camshaft lobe, I'm all ears. They’re all the same viscosity at operational temperature. Literally. So it’s not an oil viscosity thing. I’m guessing your gauge is lying to you, and the older straight weights are not flowing as smoothly. Thus you’re losing volume, in return for pressure. Oil volume > oil pressure. There is no fix to a mechanical issue, that comes in a bottle. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 2:11:10 PM EDT
[#30]
HOW much does it hold? like a fucking quart?? better save that 3 bucks on the oil change, i change the oil in my mower every spring it takes 3/4 of a quart.
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Posted: 11/13/2021 2:12:45 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: HOW much does it hold? like a fucking quart?? better save that 3 bucks on the oil change, i change the oil in my mower every spring it takes 3/4 of a quart. Your mower probably won't last any longer than guys who never change and only top off, but do whatever makes you feel good. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 2:41:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought 10w-30 synthetic was good for both hot and cold temperatures, and 30w was used in 40deg and higher. No. Oil literate people are in this thread already, but no. 10w-30 and 30w are essentially the same oil at engine operating temp. A multi-weight oil such as 10w-30 (or better yet 5w-30) helps alleviate the cold engine problem of high viscosity poor oil flow. The lower cold oil viscosity helps mimic the lower viscosity of oil at operating temp. Even still, 5w-30 viscosity is higher at cold temp than 30w is at operating temp. If an engine is rated for 30w, that means it's rated for 30w at engine operating temperature, NOT the much higher oil viscosity at engine cold temperature. When the engine is cold regardless of environmental temperature (unless you're in a volcano), oil viscosity is much higher until the engine can reach operating temperature. This much higher viscosity will not flow as well. Besides being hard on your oil pump, the worst detriment is this cold higher viscosity oil isnt flowing well enough to lubricate your engine/turbos/whatever. Most engine wear happens during this stage due to decreased oil flow. As a side effect, engines with multi-weight oils are much easier to start when the engine is cold regardless of environment temp. It's just much more pronounced at lower environmental temps. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 3:05:19 PM EDT
[#33]
Grandma had a mower, she ran straight SAE 30 in it, never changed, just topped off.
She gave that to my dad. He ran it for many years, SAE 30, never changed, just topped off. Dad gave it to me. I ran it for years, SAE 30, never changed, just topped off. Finally, after 25 years: The deck rusted through. One wheel went bad. The grass chute, made of plastic, became brittle and broke off. The self propel unit stopped working. The handle became so wallered-out that it would not lock into position. But that engine still ran like new when I finally loaded it in the trailer to take it to the local mower guy to trade. Don't overthink small engines, OP. SAE 30 is fine for anything down to freezing or even below. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 3:41:47 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/665D1B86-C4EF-44D1-B533-2F5B66A85CFB-2163956.jpg Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/ISOchart-532916.png Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. English please |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 3:54:12 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Decent straight 30w oils are hard to find and are a thing of the past imho. Rotella T6 15-40 or 5-40 is what you seek. 8nBAIT |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 5:36:20 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I neded some SAE30 this summer for my garden tractor. Advance Auto had a bunch on their clearnce rack. I grabbed 4 quarts and checked out. Guy said "that will be 22 cents". They were selling it for a nickel a quart. If left with more than 20 quarts. I am good for the next dozen or so oil changes. 8nBAIT Doublecheck that it's detergent oil. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 5:48:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Spray a can of wd40 in before running for extended periods below 20
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Posted: 11/13/2021 5:51:51 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: English please Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/665D1B86-C4EF-44D1-B533-2F5B66A85CFB-2163956.jpg Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/ISOchart-532916.png Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. English please 30w is akin to maple syrup at 30f. 5w30 would be like olive oil at 30f. Both would be around Pepsi at 212f. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 5:58:26 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rotella T6 15-40 or 5-40 is what you seek. Rotella 15-40 is what I use . 
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Posted: 11/13/2021 5:59:28 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 30w is akin to maple syrup at 30f. 5w30 would be like olive oil at 30f. Both would be around Pepsi at 212f. Can I get different flavors or are those my only options? |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 6:10:31 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can I get different flavors or are those my only options? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: 30w is akin to maple syrup at 30f. 5w30 would be like olive oil at 30f. Both would be around Pepsi at 212f. Can I get different flavors or are those my only options? We can toss in some tackifier to make it bubble gum flavor. Run it too long and it turns into cookies n cream. Add some antifreeze for Boston coffee. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 7:20:16 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 30w is akin to maple syrup at 30f. 5w30 would be like olive oil at 30f. Both would be around Pepsi at 212f. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/665D1B86-C4EF-44D1-B533-2F5B66A85CFB-2163956.jpg Given, that’s SAE 40w on the graph, not 30w. But it would be only a little below the 40w at 0c. So you can transpose 30w into that graph. Im not going spend the time actually making a 30w chart up. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/ISOchart-532916.png Will it work? Yep. Why anyone uses old straight weights anymore? Who the fuck knows? You’ll be fine. But there’s my technical post the day. English please 30w is akin to maple syrup at 30f. 5w30 would be like olive oil at 30f. Both would be around Pepsi at 212f. Cool comparisons. Nice to see it compared to something everybody has seen. |
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