Just like the jointer I bought (and returned) this Rikon bandsaw is pathetic.

I tried to resaw some very small logs, all under 3" in diameter and the saw could not hack it. 0.33hp, what a load of shit. My table saw has 1.75hp and the dust collector I will get will have 2 or 3hp.

To do one pass on a 30" log took 30 fucking minutes. If I pressed to hard, the motor would stop so I had to go slow, like 0.3 meters per hour.

Today I tried to cut the leg profile for the blanket chest I am making. It made the cuts, after a while, but now my shop smells like burnt wood. The entire cut was burned. I used a brand new timberwolf blade.

I will be keeping this as I do not use it often but if I have a large project to do, I will get a full size saw.



Never buy benchtop tools if you can afford it. Spend extra for the ease of use.

Yup, I learned this lesson the hard way. Sometimes space and budget are truly limiting factors, but even it will hurt for a bit, bite the bullet and get the bigger, more powerful, better tool.

Buddy with a shop was always pissed off because his bandsaw didn't have much power.

found a huge old monster we had to move with a tow truck. Had to replace some bearings and guides and replace the motor but he only paid scrap value for it so all was well.

when you first kicked it on it would take a bit of time to get up to speed but once it was spinning nothing would stop it . Must have been 4' wheels the blade spun on.

My Grizzly 555 has 1HP and it can resaw like nothing.

I wouldn't be surprised if half your problem is an out of tune saw and the wrong blade though.

Doubtful a tune and better blade would make a dramatic difference. It's a saw designed for crafts and things like birdhouses, not cutting a sweeping curve on 4' of 8/4 hickory or resawing 4" wide 3' long oak. It might resaw basswood and pine when it's tuned and has a purpose blade, but that's about it.

Sounds like you have the wrong pitch band saw blade in it.
What tooth count were you using?

Too fine of glade on wood, the teeth fill up, and they act like a brake on a car.
Tooth count you would use on a 1" piece of wood, is way too fine for a 3" limb.

I think you underestimate just how much is lost with a saw that isn't cutting straight. Alternately, if you're trying to resaw with anything finer than 3 TPI, you're going to bind up, heat up the blade, heat up the wood, and cause some very loud noises since you're not clearing waste at that point.

I don't disagree that it isn't designed for heavy use, but it can certainly do more than what you're talking about. My first bandsaw was a small Craftsman with a 1/2 HP motor and with the proper tune and blade it would rather easily cut black locust and could cut osage orange without great difficulty.

I don't think moving to a bigger saw is going to solve the problem. Every bandsaw needs a tune and a bandsaw is far more sensitive than any other powered saw, with the possible exception of a chainsaw, to blade configuration.

Resawing is a more demanding task than many people realize. Those small saws are really much more appropriate for smaller work and curves. They would make someone making decorative bandsaw boxes fairly happy and handle small generalized cutting tasks, but for heavy duty resaw a 3HP (or more) would be ideal.

I've got a 1.75 laguna 1412 and I have resawed very large pieces but it was easy to goof up and I did have some burning, even with a 1/2" resaw king. I've never personally had a ton of luck with a 3/4 inch blade on that saw...

Same here. I was warned not to waste my money on a bench top band saw but I was too hard headed. Used it once, sold it.  Lost about $75 on it.  Bought a Jet 14” off CL for $450.  Guy that I got it from bought it (used) and tried to use it in a muffler shop with a metal blade.  Didn’t work.

I use a 1hp 14" Jet bandsaw for sawing up logs to make boards.
I can saw a little over 12" thick. most of the time I'm sawing 4ft long logs.
Hickory, Oak, Maple, Ironwood, Cherry and some other odds and ends, all hardwoods.


I use a Bimetal blade with 3-4 pitch, 3/4" wide.

Biggest issue I have is the blades will break before they don't cut.
The blades will start cracking from the gullets and eventually will break thru. I can usually tell when sawing when they are going.

I have stalled the motor a few times its not an issue really.

I can make a cut thru 10" thick Hickory 4ft long in about 2-3 minutes.

I typically will saw something like a 12"dia x 4ft log into 1 1/8 thick boards and will end up with 7-8 boards. I can saw something like 8-10 of these logs before the blades will usually break.

I think I could really improve my production f I would of gone to a bigger saw, something with 18" wheels that could run a 1"-1 1/4" blade.

Also really helps to saw relatively dry logs, Green logs tend to deposit sap on the blade requiring frequent cleaning of the blade.

So as to OP, yea smaller stuff is limited.

Trouble is you have to get machines in the sweet spot of what your using them for. A big machine is nice but it takes more room, bigger blades, more power. Going too big will certainly do the work but it has other draw backs.
I think in most newer lighter built machines its better to go a little bit on the too big side rather than just right size.

I have this saw and can resaw 3 inches easily using a highland woodworking woodslicer resaw blade. The blade and a slow steady speed are key.