Please delete/lock (Page 1 of 12)
Posted: 9/16/2017 6:06:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kuraki][Edited]
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Start with the bar stock. I'm using 1095 and 15N20 because they contrast well with each other when etched, the nickle in the 15N20 resists etching more than the 1095, and they have a similar heat treat protocol. https://i.imgur.com/3O7quRm.jpg Clean up the faces of the stock. I run them past a 36 grit belt on a wheel. I don't really care if they're flat, I just want them clean. After I grind them they're sprayed with WD40 to keep them from oxidizing. https://i.imgur.com/pIlGgPJ.jpg Then I MIG weld the stack into a billet, and weld a piece of rebar on because I only use tongs when I have to. https://i.imgur.com/pkTOQtl.jpg And then we're off to the races  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWUsu0K4ntY |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Oh for fucks sake. Because I was listening to music while forging. Cunts. I'll upload with no sound I guess. I think you can watch if you click the link |
Bullseye shooter, AR Plinker, 1911 fan.
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
lol. That bit is probably worth more than the damascus  I need a Nakiri. |
YNWA
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Ok, I left off with the knife handle and guard roughly in shape. I do the majority of the shaping on the belt grinder with a 36 grit ZO belt, then refine a bit with a 120 belt, and at that point I chuck it up in my knife vise and start tweaking the shape with files and begin hand finishing it. https://i.imgur.com/1O1aRF2.jpg Final shaping is always something I hand tweak with files because it's just easier to see when things are wonky in the knifemakers vise. Here you'll see that things just aren't quite straight. I would chase this forever at the grinder and never be happy with it until it was ruined, but just a few minutes of filing and I'm where I want to be. https://i.imgur.com/fSkzzZ7.jpg Shaping done I begin finish sanding. Here is what it looks like at 220 grit. I wet sand with WD40 to keep the dust down. The stabilized wood and acrylic won't absorb it. Don't do this wet with natural wood. https://i.imgur.com/m2w5eVh.jpg At 600 grit things start to pop. https://i.imgur.com/gYpvqcP.jpg At 1200 grit, I'm ready to buff https://i.imgur.com/0j10lru.jpg This ZAM fablustere was recommended to me by another knifemaker and it's fantastic for stabilized woods. The green ZAM is great for guards. https://i.imgur.com/JQZjiLt.jpg Makes a nice glossy shine. https://i.imgur.com/iAK7CAN.jpg You can see the guard isn't finished, and that's on purpose. Now I remove the handle, and begin sanding the guard down. The reason for this, is I don't want the handle and guard to be flush. For one, it's incredibly hard to do because the wood sands faster than the guard, and almost inevitably the wood surface drops below the guard surface. If this were going to be a machine finished knife, it would be no problem because it's easy to keep things flush on the grinder. In this case, it's going to be hand finished and heat colored, and I have the luxury of breaking it down as many times as I choose. So now I'm going to grind the guard down so the wood is slightly proud of it. This is referred to as a museum fit. For whatever reason, if the guard is proud, things look like shit and feel like shit, but when the handle is proud, with nicely rounded corners like you meant to do it, you never notice it in your hand and it looks nice. It also allows for expansion and contraction of the handle without becoming out of alignment with the guard. https://i.imgur.com/J2FCQvV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/W2miH9g.jpg Now it just needs those corners rounded and the guard finished. I hand sand the guard to 600 grit, careful not to roll over the edge that mates to the handle, then buff it with green ZAM. This is my first time working with Zirconium. Actually this is my first damascus knife I've taken to completion too. After polishing the Zirc, I'm going to heat color it. This is going to give it a deep lusterous color, as well as an oxide layer that's somewhat scratch resistant (though the underlying material is still soft). https://i.imgur.com/euBbXdH.jpg I could stop here https://i.imgur.com/dMJaNar.jpg Or here https://i.imgur.com/zgEtp1Q.jpg But instead I'm going to take it all the way to a dark red glow and when it cools, polish it just a bit to end up with this: https://i.imgur.com/oZnZjOO.jpg After rounding the handle edges, I reassemble. I'm now ready to epoxy this together permanently, and then finish the butt of the knife. https://i.imgur.com/tCnLhAf.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/5qMUYPa.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/n7GVoGp.jpghttps://i.imgur.com/lKESDAm.jpg After that final step I'll take some photos in my light tent with the DSLR. It's hard to capture everything going on with this knife with my cell phone camera. Then, we'll make a sheath. |
YNWA
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I'm a bit late here... Fantastic knife. I really like that twist pattern and the handle came out great. When I work Zr I crank up the speed on my belt. I want it to spark. Then there is no chance the dust will flame up. That dust is explosive. Don't run a dust collector when working Zr.
Why do you only go to 220 on the grinder? Just curious. |
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Because I was out of 400 grit belts!
Just got 48 in yesterday. I would rather hand sand than grind with the a65 45 30 Trizacts I did have. It's faster 
Good point on the zirc. I didn't think of it that way. I did collect a bunch of saw filings and burn them with a torch 
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Because I was out of 400 grit belts!
Just got 48 in yesterday. I would rather hand sand than grind with the a65 45 30 Trizacts I did have. It's faster
Good point on the zirc. I didn't think of it that way. I did collect a bunch of saw filings and burn them with a torch |
YNWA
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Hehe ok. Twist my arm. I'll mill some chips. It's like magnesium ribbon maybe hotter. Plus I'm having a hard time finding Boudin Rouge so actually finding something I'm looking frnisnnice |
YNWA
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
I did collect a bunch of saw filings and burn them with a torch I also take my torch and run it across the floor under my grinder to get rid of all the dust that I missed. Kind of a controlled burn. I have caught two shop vacs on fire because I let to much Ti dust collect. They go up quick! Black Timascus is real fun to work. My band saw will spark that stuff at 600 rpm. The sparks will travel around the blade as I cut. I will be working some soon. I will have to take a video of it.
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If you're looking to get a knife made by Kuraki, you made a good choice. Maybe he'll post a pic or two of the Becker blank that he finished for me.
Everyone that's seen it or that's had a chance to handle it can't believe that it was a blank, Becker and where can I get some scales like that! 
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
So I'm a little ADD and I jump around a lot when I'm working I stuff I want to work on. I started this pig stabber last year I think. Maybe it was this year but definitely last winter. I change my mind a lot but now have decided on a direction, so today I finished cleaning it up on the grinder then hand sanded it to 1000 grit, shaped the guard, and then broached and shaped the handle. The blade is S7 tool steel. Not the greatest in edge holding, but about the toughest steel that makes a useful knife. This thing was made with one purpose, to sink deep into a live animal and not break, no matter what. The handle is York Gum Burl. The guard 416 stainless. https://i.imgur.com/gGT7Ktp.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jeDrd4P.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ARskq66.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3I5eGJw.jpg |
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