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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:41:56 AM EDT
[#1]
After 30 Plus years in the photo biz....P for Professional
I’m sure others have posted but for me when shooting sports set the ASA/ISO light sensitivity to the highest value that doesn’t degrad the quality/grainy look/color noise use a fast enough shutter speed to stop the action-sometimes a blur adds to the look of action. Then let the camera pick the aperture. As for the White Balance, you can let the Camera pic or select a look you like. If you shoot in a RAW image mode you will have a chance in the computer to change the look of the image after the fact. BTW there are FIVE aspects to an image and most are subjective; ISO/ASA SHUTTER SPEED APERTURE WHITE BALANCE & THE LIGHT YOIR SHOOTING IN. All are controllable by the shooter, some just require more experience and some tools. IMHO/YMMV Have fun |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:42:26 AM EDT
[#2]
Depends on what you're shooting, but I'm usually in aperture mode.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:45:24 AM EDT
[#3]
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I use manual. But I also have a camera that puts those at your fingertips. If you have to go into a menu then yeah, manual isn't really viable. I've yet to test how fast I can do this yet. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:46:56 AM EDT
[#4]
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Holy Batman , lenses are expensive 
But probably for the reason rifle glass is lol In reality, a good lens will outlive most modern cameras. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:47:38 AM EDT
[#5]
Manual only
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:48:30 AM EDT
[#6]
The biggest problem that I see with most picture is blurriness due to camera motion. I am very steady when I hand hold a camera so I can get away with slower shutter speeds. But unless I am doing something special, I just leave it on auto.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:49:56 AM EDT
[#7]
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I shoot A mode, ie Aperture Priority, exclusively. Using this mode, I adjust the aperture size and the ISO to control the shutter speed. If I'm shooting moving objects, then I will open up the aperture and/or/maybe dial up the ISO one step or so in order to lower the shutter speed to reduce any blur. If I am shooting a stationary object with tons of time, then I will use manual mode, but out and about I leave it on Aperture Priority because it's just so much faster. I'm a little too slow for manual mode to work when I might only have a second or two to get the photo. Using Nikon, I shoot EVERYTHING in RAW / NEF. If I don't need to make any edits, then Nikon's Capture NX-D software can just spit out the JPEG of the photo based on what my camera settings were. It's super easy and quick, and there is NO reason to shoot JPEG only in my opinion. Despite common belief, you do not have to manually edit a RAW/NEF file unless you are just wanting to change something, and when shooting in RAW/NEF you at least have the ability to go back and fix things, where JPEG you pretty much are stuck with what you shot. ------ The larger your aperture the shorter your field of view. I noticed one of the pictures of the child, the focus point was a few inches behind their face (the hair on the side of their head was in focus, but the face was not). If using phase detection auto focus then make sure that your focus point is a point with high contrast, or at least a point with some detail, otherwise you will miss it and end up with a blurry photo. Never use area/automatic autofocus, EVER, you need to tell the camera exactly where to focus so you can control your depth of field. Never let the camera do that for you. If you have your focus point on an area of soft smooth skin, then you are likely to have a blurry photo. If you make your focus point let's say on the corner of an eye, etc, then you are more likely to have a photo that is in focus. -- ISO, I generally shoot 200 ISO outdoors and 400 ISO indoors. That will vary some, but it has worked for me. The lower your ISO then the less grainy your image will look, however you want your shutter to be fast enough to not have any blur either. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 11:59:51 AM EDT
[#8]
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The biggest problem that I see with most picture is blurriness due to camera motion. I am very steady when I hand hold a camera so I can get away with slower shutter speeds. But unless I am doing something special, I just leave it on auto. Take your focal length, reciprocate it. But no slower than 1/50. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 12:07:12 PM EDT
[#9]
If you’re getting motion blur, I recommend shooting at the largest aperture and bumping the shutter speed up. I usually shoot 2.8 and 1/1000th.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 12:16:06 PM EDT
[#10]
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Oh man What you are asking is, as a race car driver, what are the vehicle settings?  There is NO magic setting. And what roughly works on one camera might not be the best on another. There is no shame in leaving it in the safe harbor "green" settings. Just understand you're not going to get the true power of that camera letting it decide everything. Go hit youtube, and prepare to go down a multiyear rabbit hole. Don't get discouraged, and don't give up. I started taking pictures at 8-9, I'm almost 48 now, and still learn something on a regular basis. It's almost like cooking; you won't learn if you don't get out and burn some noodles Congrats! (remember, don't invest in bodies - invest in glass) Furthering the car analogy... Sometimes you want to shift gears, heel and toe, turn the wheel and feel the road give you feedback and make changes to your driving style accordingly. Sometimes, you just want to set the cruise. I like to dive into the manual settings every so often, especially in challenging situations, but for most photography, the engineers at Nikon have done a pretty good job... |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 12:16:07 PM EDT
[#11]
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I read a generic rule on shutter speed when shooting free hand. Take your focal length, reciprocate it. But no slower than 1/50. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 12:52:59 PM EDT
[#12]
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My camera is usually on manual. It's not that hard once you've learned how everything relates together and have the muscle memory to adjust settings on the fly. Then again, the D500 doesn't even have any of those automatic modes.  |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 1:19:38 PM EDT
[#13]
I must be the only one shooting high quality JPEGs. I can still open them in Adobe Camera Raw and do 99% if not more of the stuff to it as a raw file, and I get wayyy more shots per card.
Unless you're a pro, shooting posters or magazine double-truck ad images or the like, JPEG is generally fine. Especially for simple family gathering shots. It takes MANY rounds of saving as lower quality JPEGs to actually show artifacting issues. 
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Posted: 5/6/2018 1:27:38 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I must be the only one shooting high quality JPEGs. I can still open them in Adobe Camera Raw and do 99% if not more of the stuff to it as a raw file, and I get wayyy more shots per card. Unless you're a pro, shooting posters or magazine double-truck ad images or the like, JPEG is generally fine. Especially for simple family gathering shots. It takes MANY rounds of saving as lower quality JPEGs to actually show artifacting issues. For what I do (usually posting on the internet), high quality JPEG works fine for me (they get wrecked when posting anyway). I will admit that if I have to do a lot of editing or correction on a .jpeg photo, I will convert it to .tiff (lossless) format and do all my edited and saving in that format then convert it back to .jpg if needed. I do shoot RAW when doing astrophotography because a lot of post process is inevitable anyway. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 1:34:38 PM EDT
[#15]
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No, you are not the only one - I do also. For what I do (usually posting on the internet), high quality JPEG works fine for me (they get wrecked when posting anyway). I will admit that if I have to do a lot of editing or correction on a .jpeg photo, I will convert it to .tiff (lossless) format and do all my edited and saving in that format then convert it back to .jpg if needed. I do shoot RAW when doing astrophotography because a lot of post process is inevitable anyway. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I must be the only one shooting high quality JPEGs. I can still open them in Adobe Camera Raw and do 99% if not more of the stuff to it as a raw file, and I get wayyy more shots per card. Unless you're a pro, shooting posters or magazine double-truck ad images or the like, JPEG is generally fine. Especially for simple family gathering shots. It takes MANY rounds of saving as lower quality JPEGs to actually show artifacting issues. For what I do (usually posting on the internet), high quality JPEG works fine for me (they get wrecked when posting anyway). I will admit that if I have to do a lot of editing or correction on a .jpeg photo, I will convert it to .tiff (lossless) format and do all my edited and saving in that format then convert it back to .jpg if needed. I do shoot RAW when doing astrophotography because a lot of post process is inevitable anyway. OP the automobile analogy is a good one. Or a firearm for that matter. Practice the fundamentals until they become natural for you. "Understanding Exposure" is a decent book (not very thick) to give you a clearer understanding of why you need to learn the basics.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 1:43:28 PM EDT
[#16]
I usually use my D810 in aperture priority with auto ISO on when shooting outdoors. In the studio, usually on manual.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 1:50:05 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I usually use my D810 in aperture priority with auto ISO on when shooting outdoors. In the studio, usually on manual. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:03:42 PM EDT
[#18]
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This is usually the easiest answer, and it helps build some habits/knowledge of the camera. Otherwise, just use auto and focus on composition, like others have stated. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I usually use my D810 in aperture priority with auto ISO on when shooting outdoors. In the studio, usually on manual. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:07:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I read a generic rule on shutter speed when shooting free hand. Take your focal length, reciprocate it. But no slower than 1/50. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The biggest problem that I see with most pictures is blurriness due to camera motion. I am very steady when I hand hold a camera so I can get away with slower shutter speeds. But unless I am doing something special, I just leave it on auto. Take your focal length, reciprocate it. But no slower than 1/50.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:16:19 PM EDT
[#20]
Don't get too hung up on nomenclature and rules of thumb. The MILCs like the A6000 or DSLRS are all different and getting used to your camera is going to take some work, just like some people find different pistols easier or more difficult to shoot. Handling and control of the camera takes practice, just like getting used to a new pistol and the way it handles.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:35:22 PM EDT
[#21]
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That's true for full frame cameras. You are not using a full frame camera. You need to consider your crop factor, which is why I told you 1/80. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I read a generic rule on shutter speed when shooting free hand. Take your focal length, reciprocate it. But no slower than 1/50. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:39:24 PM EDT
[#22]
Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual?
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:45:31 PM EDT
[#23]
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Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual? |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:46:42 PM EDT
[#24]
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I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:47:04 PM EDT
[#25]
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It varies depending on what I'm shooting, but usually mine is usually set for Automatic as it is smart enough to figure out whether I'm shooting a still or a moving subject and automatically selects the proper mode. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual? |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:48:15 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
...But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids?... ...Any tips for a noob would be appreciated.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:51:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual? |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:54:15 PM EDT
[#28]
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Well, bless your heart, Snowflake, aren't you something special? Just do it like we did in the days when even a lightmeter was a luxury -- practice, practice, practice. Before long, it'll all become second nature, like driving a vehicle with a manual transmission or writing cursive.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
...But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids?... ...Any tips for a noob would be appreciated.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. I thought everybody had one....
 Attached File |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 2:58:15 PM EDT
[#29]
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Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual? Btw for baby photos, focus on the closest eye to the camera and have your depth of field deep enough that both are in focus. That’s a huge portrait too that I don’t understand why more people don’t know it. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:01:03 PM EDT
[#30]
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What? I thought everybody had one....
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/LightMeter-535643.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids?... ...Any tips for a noob would be appreciated.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. I thought everybody had one....
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/LightMeter-535643.JPG Completely cheating.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:06:18 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, bless your heart, Snowflake, aren't you something special? Just do it like we did in the days when even a lightmeter was a luxury -- practice, practice, practice. Before long, it'll all become second nature, like driving a vehicle with a manual transmission or writing cursive.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
...But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids?... ...Any tips for a noob would be appreciated.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:10:15 PM EDT
[#32]
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I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. 
Back in the day it was the size of the film used. For digital cameras it is the size of the sensor. That's the thing that captures light and turns it into an image. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:15:22 PM EDT
[#33]
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I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. Crop factor is a sensor size issue. A full frame sensor is 24x36 mm. Cropped sensors (smaller & cheaper to make) yield a smaller surface area, resulting in an apparent gain in focal length. E.g.: A 50mm sense on a 1.5 crop factor sensor gives an equivalent lens size of 75mm compared to a full frame sensor. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:16:56 PM EDT
[#34]
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http://photoseek.com/wp-content/uploads/Sensor-sizes_PhotoSeek.jpg Back in the day it was the size of the film used. For digital cameras it is the size of the sensor. That's the thing that captures light and turns it into an image. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. Back in the day it was the size of the film used. For digital cameras it is the size of the sensor. That's the thing that captures light and turns it into an image. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:17:37 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What? I thought everybody had one....
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/LightMeter-535643.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids?... ...Any tips for a noob would be appreciated.
Or you could remain just another point-and-shooter. I thought everybody had one....
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/LightMeter-535643.JPG 
Told me contrast, exposure, everything. Got some beautiful negatives that way. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:29:01 PM EDT
[#36]
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So what sensor do iPotatoes have? Smaller than whats on the chart? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. Back in the day it was the size of the film used. For digital cameras it is the size of the sensor. That's the thing that captures light and turns it into an image. The sensor on my Galaxy S4 is 1/3.06".  Attached File |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:43:15 PM EDT
[#37]
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Whats everyone's favorite focus mode? Auto, continuous, single, Direct Manual, Manual? I've put my camera in in AF-S/AF-C Auto, and handed it off to strangers, but it never works out well. Invariably, it picks up some unintended object in the foreground or background. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:44:59 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
What settings do you normally use to shoot with? What do you regulate, and what do you let your camera regulate? I purchased a new camera yesterday, an entry level mirrorless, and read up on the three most important things to a camera and what they do: Shutterspeed, aperture, ISO. But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids? So many damn modes in cameras these days. Intelligent, Intelligent+, Program Auto, Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed Priority, Manual, Scenes, blah blah blah blah. I'm thinking on trying out the Intelligent or Intelligent+ from my camera, shooting with RAWs, and I can go back and edit the photo later if I want to. This camera will be for family photos only, I'm not getting hardcore into photography. I might buy a longer lens in the future however. Any tips for a noob would be appreciated. Quoted:
Fwiw the pro that did our wedding I asked how he adjusted his camera. He said auto. His explanation was simple. "Most all my attention is on composition, not trying to adjust the camera". The pictures were amazing. I hardly ever shoot .RAW, no need to do post-processing(way too much work) becasue I come from the film world, and my motto is "do it right the 1st time," |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:53:41 PM EDT
[#39]
i shot people and product, so 80% of normal shooting i was in aperture priority AE, as wide open as circumstances allowed. this works for both slow stuff (wide open gives shallowest depth of field) and action stuff (wide open gives you the maximum possible shutter speed). it's silly to shoot manual if you're just slavishly following the output of your meter (except maybe as a training tool), but even in AE you need to be mentally keeping track of your exposure so that you can compensate on the fly.
for AF, i always shot continuous rather than point if any kind of movement was going on. getting locked out of the shutter while AF hunts absolutely enrages me--i would rather get a soft frame, then be able to come right back and grab a new shot. even in the studio, expressions wash across someone's face so quickly that they're gone if you have to wait on equipment. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:56:18 PM EDT
[#40]
I'll add that at some point you should also invest in a decent tripod.
There are some shots where you'll find that a tripod is almost a requirement in order to get a good photograph. Don't go with a cheap one because those aren't really very stable or vibration damped, personally I like Manfrotto. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:57:42 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's a relative comparison chart. The sensor on my Galaxy S4 is 1/3.06". https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/Sensors-size-01-01-535670.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
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I'll have to look up what a crop factor means, but I'll keep my speeds at or above 1/80. Back in the day it was the size of the film used. For digital cameras it is the size of the sensor. That's the thing that captures light and turns it into an image. The sensor on my Galaxy S4 is 1/3.06". https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20962/Sensors-size-01-01-535670.JPG |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 3:58:45 PM EDT
[#42]
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You should practice on some non-critical subjects like at the shopping mall with manikins, statutes etc. and see how each mode works. If you are not exactly familiar with photography, you may want to take a class the local community college or at least read a good text book. Ditto on that. But personally for me, I like to P-mode("program" mode and fill flash, btw Nikon has the only decent fill-flash system, Canon's & even Sony is not too good, over/under exposed) I hardly ever shoot .RAW, no need to do post-processing(way too much work) becasue I come from the film world, and my motto is "do it right the 1st time," Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What settings do you normally use to shoot with? What do you regulate, and what do you let your camera regulate? I purchased a new camera yesterday, an entry level mirrorless, and read up on the three most important things to a camera and what they do: Shutterspeed, aperture, ISO. But who the fuck has time to play with the above when they are shooting pictures, especially time critical photos with action/movement or your kids? So many damn modes in cameras these days. Intelligent, Intelligent+, Program Auto, Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed Priority, Manual, Scenes, blah blah blah blah. I'm thinking on trying out the Intelligent or Intelligent+ from my camera, shooting with RAWs, and I can go back and edit the photo later if I want to. This camera will be for family photos only, I'm not getting hardcore into photography. I might buy a longer lens in the future however. Any tips for a noob would be appreciated. Quoted:
Fwiw the pro that did our wedding I asked how he adjusted his camera. He said auto. His explanation was simple. "Most all my attention is on composition, not trying to adjust the camera". The pictures were amazing. I hardly ever shoot .RAW, no need to do post-processing(way too much work) becasue I come from the film world, and my motto is "do it right the 1st time," |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:08:07 PM EDT
[#43]
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Point n Shoots are harder to adjust than the other larger cameras, I bought it knowing that. Maybe when my kid(s) get older I'll get a nice 4-figure camera system. It does take decent pictures in low light. This was taken in that Intelligent+ mode. F5.6, ISO 3200, 1/10 speed, 50mm focal. From what little I know, I would guess that high ISO and slow shutter speed to capture as much light as possible is what makes my baby's face look not as sharp as it could. http://i63.tinypic.com/5vyeki.jpg |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:08:35 PM EDT
[#44]
Yes.
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:09:07 PM EDT
[#45]
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Here is another photo taken using the flash. F5.0, 1/60 speed, ISO 500, 51mm focal. Looks sharper, except for her nose and the pacifier. The focus is better around her eyes, ears and hair. http://i67.tinypic.com/1z6v6zt.jpg |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:11:38 PM EDT
[#46]
Ok so I read the lens my camera comes with is not suitable for low light, because its lowest F value is 3.5.
People recommend a 50mm prime lens at F1.8. Is this correct? To compliment my new camera I should probably pick up this: https://www.sony.com/electronics/camera-lenses/sel50f18 And probably one of these: https://www.sony.com/electronics/camera-lenses/sel55210 Jesus this shits expensive. Should have gotten a one of these
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:12:07 PM EDT
[#47]
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Lol, some guy at Church was telling me why bother with fancy cameras, his iPhone X takes great pictures. They are limited though due to their sensor size and aperture. They have shot full length feature films on the iPhone now. You just need to know how to work with the tool you have. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:12:33 PM EDT
[#48]
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Here is a case where bouncing the flash off the ceiling would have softened the tonality and lightened the background without messing with the shot dynamics. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Here is another photo taken using the flash. F5.0, 1/60 speed, ISO 500, 51mm focal. Looks sharper, except for her nose and the pacifier. The focus is better around her eyes, ears and hair. http://i67.tinypic.com/1z6v6zt.jpg |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:16:20 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok so I read the lens my camera comes with is not suitable for low light, because its lowest F value is 3.5. People recommend a 50mm prime lens at F1.8. Is this correct? To compliment my new camera I should probably pick up this: https://www.sony.com/electronics/camera-lenses/sel50f18 And probably one of these: https://www.sony.com/electronics/camera-lenses/sel55210 Jesus this shits expensive. Should have gotten a one of these
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fdigital-photography-school.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2009%2F02%2Fnikon-coolpix-s220.jpg&f=1 Lenses will help, but I think you are looking to bhy a magic bullet to solve your problem when just knowing how to use your camera settings will provide the solution you need. |
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Posted: 5/6/2018 4:18:08 PM EDT
[#50]
OP, get a copy of Understanding Exposure. Learn what the three big aspects do - Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO.
I use an Olympus OM-D EM-5 MkII currently. For video, I leave it on P (program automatic) and for stills, I USUALLY use Aperture Priority, so I can control depth of field. ISO is usually on Automatic, but doesn't go above 1600 most of the time. I use full manual sometimes if I want to do something special, like a long exposure, because I don't want the camera to decide an ISO level that results in a faster shutter speed. Again, get the book and understand what each of the three aspects DO, and you'll come to grips with what YOU want to control depending on what you're shooting. |
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