Official cyclist thread (Page 21 of 26)
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Originally Posted By Fourman: Here is day 2 of Pace Bend...After this race my team has the GC.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEj_R9h2ZMThe heads up display with the video is cool as hell. Id cause a big ass accident riding that close to others at that speed  Originally Posted By -Ascent-: New brakes. SRAM Maven ULT https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8385_jpeg-3729176.JPG Edit https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8389_jpeg-3729297.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8390_jpeg-3729298.JPG Ride report? I thought the ones I tried were spongy but they were on a rental bike so may not have been bleed correctly. How did installation go, are they easy to bleed? |
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Originally Posted By AgeOne: The heads up display with the video is cool as hell. Id cause a big ass accident riding that close to others at that speed Ride report? I thought the ones I tried were spongy but they were on a rental bike so may not have been bleed correctly. How did installation go, are they easy to bleed? Originally Posted By AgeOne: Originally Posted By Fourman: Here is day 2 of Pace Bend...After this race my team has the GC. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEj_R9h2ZMThe heads up display with the video is cool as hell. Id cause a big ass accident riding that close to others at that speed Originally Posted By -Ascent-: New brakes. SRAM Maven ULT https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8385_jpeg-3729176.JPG Edit https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8389_jpeg-3729297.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8390_jpeg-3729298.JPG Ride report? I thought the ones I tried were spongy but they were on a rental bike so may not have been bleed correctly. How did installation go, are they easy to bleed? This is my 3rd pair of Mavens. I had Maven base on my old enduro bike. Maven Silvers on my new Enduro/Trail bike and these ULT on my Enduro Ebike. Mavens are my favorite brakes. Tons of power. The older versions were more of an on/off feel. With the new versions (B1). There’s more modulation, lighter brake lever pull weight and if you want the power its there too. I liked the older versions and now the updated ones are even better. Once’s I figured the bleeding technique and got them dialed in I loved them. I think they’re easier to bleed than the Shimano, TRP, and heyes I’ve had. You can pressurized the system to your liking. There is an on/off bleed port on the caliper. If they ever feel spongy to me I’ll lever bleed them and it takes care of it. They do take some getting used to with how powerful they’re. It’s pretty easy to lock the rear up. I’ve never had a situation with them where I was thinking I needed more brake. The install was super easy the kit comes with the adaptor for 200mm rotors, bleed block, pad separator, multiple barb/bulb and all the mounting hardware. They were pre-bled. The rear cable I shortened I did a lever bleed and it was good to go. Edit. The other two sets. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Ascent-: This is my 3rd pair of Mavens. I had Maven base on my old enduro bike. Maven Silvers on my new Enduro/Trail bike and these ULT on my Enduro Ebike. Mavens are my favorite brakes. Tons of power. The older versions were more of an on/off feel. With the new versions (B1). There’s more modulation, lighter brake lever pull weight and if you want the power its there too. I liked the older versions and now the updated ones are even better. Once’s I figured the bleeding technique and got them dialed in I loved them. I think they’re easier to bleed than the Shimano, TRP, and heyes I’ve had. You can pressurized the system to your liking. There is an on/off bleed port on the caliper. If they ever feel spongy to me I’ll lever bleed them and it takes care of it. They do take some getting used to with how powerful they’re. It’s pretty easy to lock the rear up. I’ve never had a situation with them where I was thinking I needed more brake. The install was super easy the kit comes with the adaptor for 200mm rotors, bleed block, pad separator, multiple barb/bulb and all the mounting hardware. They were pre-bled. The rear cable I shortened I did a lever bleed and it was good to go. Edit. The other two sets. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8483_jpeg-3732525.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8484_jpeg-3732526.JPG Interesting, the ones I tried definitely had some air or something then, they felt vague and inconsistent. But again they were on kind of a beat up rental. Could have even been a slightly bent rotor causing it. Im a Magura guy. The modulation is right between old sram and shimano with plenty of power. However one of my bikes has xtr levers and mt7 calipers... the shigura set up, stupid amounts of power but still a bit more modulation than shimano. Its my favorite set up now. |
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Originally Posted By AgeOne: The heads up display with the video is cool as hell. Id cause a big ass accident riding that close to others at that speed Ride report? I thought the ones I tried were spongy but they were on a rental bike so may not have been bleed correctly. How did installation go, are they easy to bleed? |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By AgeOne: Interesting, the ones I tried definitely had some air or something then, they felt vague and inconsistent. But again they were on kind of a beat up rental. Could have even been a slightly bent rotor causing it. Im a Magura guy. The modulation is right between old sram and shimano with plenty of power. However one of my bikes has xtr levers and mt7 calipers... the shigura set up, stupid amounts of power but still a bit more modulation than shimano. Its my favorite set up now. Originally Posted By AgeOne: Originally Posted By -Ascent-: This is my 3rd pair of Mavens. I had Maven base on my old enduro bike. Maven Silvers on my new Enduro/Trail bike and these ULT on my Enduro Ebike. Mavens are my favorite brakes. Tons of power. The older versions were more of an on/off feel. With the new versions (B1). There’s more modulation, lighter brake lever pull weight and if you want the power its there too. I liked the older versions and now the updated ones are even better. Once’s I figured the bleeding technique and got them dialed in I loved them. I think they’re easier to bleed than the Shimano, TRP, and heyes I’ve had. You can pressurized the system to your liking. There is an on/off bleed port on the caliper. If they ever feel spongy to me I’ll lever bleed them and it takes care of it. They do take some getting used to with how powerful they’re. It’s pretty easy to lock the rear up. I’ve never had a situation with them where I was thinking I needed more brake. The install was super easy the kit comes with the adaptor for 200mm rotors, bleed block, pad separator, multiple barb/bulb and all the mounting hardware. They were pre-bled. The rear cable I shortened I did a lever bleed and it was good to go. Edit. The other two sets. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8483_jpeg-3732525.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8484_jpeg-3732526.JPG Interesting, the ones I tried definitely had some air or something then, they felt vague and inconsistent. But again they were on kind of a beat up rental. Could have even been a slightly bent rotor causing it. Im a Magura guy. The modulation is right between old sram and shimano with plenty of power. However one of my bikes has xtr levers and mt7 calipers... the shigura set up, stupid amounts of power but still a bit more modulation than shimano. Its my favorite set up now. I had the new updated version of the XTs. I tried to like them but mine were inconsistent in cold weather. Then I road the sram motives. I really liked them. They have great modulation and are good for a trail bike. The issue that led me to mavens on everything was the new Treks you can swop the links out and go from trail to enduro. So when I would switch it to 160/170mm and take it to the bike park I would want more brake than the XT and Motives provide. |
Last nights race...was fun DRIVEWAY 2026! March 19, 2026 - CAT 3/4 |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Too old for crits. I miss racing.  |
License to slouch.
Mitchell!
Mitchell!
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: First ride on new bike. I agree with the mavens. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/348780/1000004465_jpg-3732666.JPG Sweet Propain. How do you like it? |
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The new Forbidden Reya XC bike looks pretty sweet. Attached File |
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Has anyone tried butterfly bars? I need to get more weight off of my hands due to arthritis in my right wrist. Either that, or I need bars with about 3 inches of sweep. Bike is a Trek 7500 hybrid I bought in 2004.  The Bontrager bar is still installed. I'm tempted to change it to get rid of the accessory rail. |
Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
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Originally Posted By AeroE: Has anyone tried butterfly bars? I need to get more weight off of my hands due to arthritis in my right wrist. Either that, or I need bars with about 3 inches of sweep. Both a shorter reach and/or a higher stack will put you more upright, taking weight off of the hands. There are options in different handlebars, in different stems, and also in stem extenders. Show us what your stem geometry looks like. Also, "wrist-friendly" bars have more rise in the center and less "upward sweep", and they also have more rearward sweep. "Buckhorn" handlebars are pretty widely regarded as the most comfortable and wrist-friendly and elbow-friendly, most you'll see are for motorcycles, but they exist for bicycles as well. Butterflies look like they'd give you the option of more rise in the front or less reach in the rear. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Both a shorter reach and/or a higher stack will put you more upright, taking weight off of the hands. There are options in different handlebars, in different stems, and also in stem extenders. Show us what your stem geometry looks like. Also, "wrist-friendly" bars have more rise in the center and less "upward sweep", and they also have more rearward sweep. "Buckhorn" handlebars are pretty widely regarded as the most comfortable and wrist-friendly, most you'll see are for motorcycles, but they exist for bicycles as well. Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By AeroE: Has anyone tried butterfly bars? I need to get more weight off of my hands due to arthritis in my right wrist. Either that, or I need bars with about 3 inches of sweep. Both a shorter reach and/or a higher stack will put you more upright, taking weight off of the hands. There are options in different handlebars, in different stems, and also in stem extenders. Show us what your stem geometry looks like. Also, "wrist-friendly" bars have more rise in the center and less "upward sweep", and they also have more rearward sweep. "Buckhorn" handlebars are pretty widely regarded as the most comfortable and wrist-friendly, most you'll see are for motorcycles, but they exist for bicycles as well. Bar width and shoulder width. I like to breathe. Slammed is now getting risers in my older age. I don't get the narrow bar/aero thing. I like the leverage when dealing with handling. 44cm bars |
License to slouch.
Mitchell!
Mitchell!
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Originally Posted By TheYellowThing: Too old for crits. I miss racing. Originally Posted By TheYellowThing: I miss racing. |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By TheYellowThing: Btw, when Sean Kelly went clipless, That was when I ditched the straps. Training for L'Eroica. These sucked. They still do. Clips/straps I removed the toe straps long ago and don't miss them. I did use them however when they were installed. Same on my old road bike. I'll take a photo of the spacers, extension, and bar rotation tomorrow. Height is good, but I need the grips about 2 or 3 inches farther aft. Now I can sit more upright with my fingertips on one grip. I had already planned to move my seat forward. I don't believe I can go more than a half to 3/4ths of an inch without getting my hips too far forward. I want to avoid a box full of handlebars that didn't work out. |
Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
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Originally Posted By AeroE: I removed the toe straps long ago and don't miss them. I did use them however when they were installed. Same on my old road bike. I'll take a photo of the spacers, extension, and bar rotation tomorrow. Height is good, but I need the grips about 2 or 3 inches farther after aft. Now I can sit more upright with my fingertips on one grip. I had already planned to move my seat forward. I don't believe I can go more than a half to 3/4ths of an inch without getting my hips too far forward. I want to avoid a box full of handlebars that didn't work out. be careful moving that seat forward as your also changing your knee deflection. then you end up with a bad wrist and a funky knee. considering the rise on that bar I don't know if your going to find a lot of options. I know surly makes some bars with a lot of sweep and rise. we had an older rider with a pretty radical bar from them. alternatively work on core strength to keep from putting so much stress on your hands. |
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Yesterday I got screwed by Garmin lol. I went on a ride with a group for 40 miles and we shared a course. Then after the ride I figure to keep going and rode another 42 miles for 82 total. When Garmin has a new feature that can trim your ride to just your course. I was tired and accepted it....and boom...only a 40 mile ride on Garmin and everywhere....kinda sucked. I do have a screen capture of the livetrack that kinda shows it. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By AgeOne: be careful moving that seat forward as your also changing your knee deflection. then you end up with a bad wrist and a funky knee. considering the rise on that bar I don't know if your going to find a lot of options. I know surly makes some bars with a lot of sweep and rise. we had an older rider with a pretty radical bar from them. alternatively work on core strength to keep from putting so much stress on your hands. The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. |
Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
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Playing around with tire fit on my gravel bike since its getting very dry and sandy everywhere I was wanting a little wider than 40s. My old trek xc has some vittoria barzo 2.1" tires, I measured them and compared to the space on the gravel bike. Looked like it was close enough to try. So I swapped them out and its a fit. Did a quick ride around the hood and some sandy dirt roads around me, 18psi they feel great. Might be a little slower than the schwalbe g-one it came with but way better grip. Attached File I do have a little concern about mud clearance. But thats not typical a big issue out here. Also damn vittoria, could you find uglier lettering  Originally Posted By AeroE: The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. Sounds like a good place to start then. |
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Looks like everyone is on pretty deep rims. How much elevation change per race? |
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: Looks like everyone is on pretty deep rims. How much elevation change per race? Originally Posted By Bourbonator: Looks like everyone is on pretty deep rims. How much elevation change per race? |
Living in the free state of Texas
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How do you like the hunts? Carbon spokes? Was thinking about getting a set of 34 or 44 aerodynamacists. We have hills here, but also a lot of wind. I have a 12 mile out and back I like to do as a metric for race-readiness. Almost 1000 feet of climbing for that 12 miles, and that's my flat route. I wish specialized had a campy hub for the alpinist clx wheels. The other option is bora wto. I really enjoy not having to use rim tape with my campy wheels, but they're pricey. |
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: How do you like the hunts? Carbon spokes? Was thinking about getting a set of 34 or 44 aerodynamacists. We have hills here, but also a lot of wind. I have a 12 mile out and back I like to do as a metric for race-readiness. Almost 1000 feet of climbing for that 12 miles, and that's my flat route. I wish specialized had a campy hub for the alpinist clx wheels. The other option is bora wto. I really enjoy not having to use rim tape with my campy wheels, but they're pricey. Going with carbon spokes be careful...I hear the ride is super super stiff. Steel has that nice flex. That being said....I seem to always look at carbon spokes wheels now. Hooked only for me. In fact Hunt came out with hookless a year ago....and all of them are recalled and they do not make hookless anymore. I expect hookless on road wheels is going away. |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: I appreciate the insight. My road bike is aluminum, already quite stiff.. Light bicycle also has some really low weight wheels, a little spendier than hunts, but I know exactly no one who's tried them. I guess there always has to be a first. Today did 38 miles with 20.22mph average and 1500 feet of climbing....I am getting into the zone for racing. |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By AeroE: The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. Originally Posted By AeroE: Originally Posted By AgeOne: be careful moving that seat forward as your also changing your knee deflection. then you end up with a bad wrist and a funky knee. considering the rise on that bar I don't know if your going to find a lot of options. I know surly makes some bars with a lot of sweep and rise. we had an older rider with a pretty radical bar from them. alternatively work on core strength to keep from putting so much stress on your hands. The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. I have similar wrist issues: - no cartilage remaining between the scaphoid and the radius bones: Attached File I get by with: - cortisone injected between the bones 1x a year, - ibuprofen + acetaminophen before a ride, and - lidocaine + Valtoren + Penetrex (a DMSO cream) topically. It works for now. I’m switching to carbon-fiber bars soon. Do you think carbon bars will help with my wrists? |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Both a shorter reach and/or a higher stack will put you more upright, taking weight off of the hands. There are options in different handlebars, in different stems, and also in stem extenders. Show us what your stem geometry looks like. Also, "wrist-friendly" bars have more rise in the center and less "upward sweep", and they also have more rearward sweep. "Buckhorn" handlebars are pretty widely regarded as the most comfortable and wrist-friendly and elbow-friendly, most you'll see are for motorcycles, but they exist for bicycles as well. Butterflies look like they'd give you the option of more rise in the front or less reach in the rear. Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By AeroE: Has anyone tried butterfly bars? I need to get more weight off of my hands due to arthritis in my right wrist. Either that, or I need bars with about 3 inches of sweep. Both a shorter reach and/or a higher stack will put you more upright, taking weight off of the hands. There are options in different handlebars, in different stems, and also in stem extenders. Show us what your stem geometry looks like. Also, "wrist-friendly" bars have more rise in the center and less "upward sweep", and they also have more rearward sweep. "Buckhorn" handlebars are pretty widely regarded as the most comfortable and wrist-friendly and elbow-friendly, most you'll see are for motorcycles, but they exist for bicycles as well. Butterflies look like they'd give you the option of more rise in the front or less reach in the rear. I spent years fighting this battle with no success until I got fed up and stuck on my longest, lowest stem and lowest rise handlebars and voila! It was the most comfortable I had ever been on a bicycle. The specifics of my physical proportions are such that being bent over at a specific angle and with handlebars at a specific height allow my back and side muscles to support most of my weight, rather than my hands and arms. It took me years to figure this out. When I bought my current bike, I sized up to XL to get a long enough reach and then installed a longer stem and slammed the low-rise handlbars and it feels amazing. Attached File |
Pour over coffee is best coffee.
| I got a bike fit one time, because I was trying to make sure my seat was in the right place (relative to pedals, I had put a setback post on it, and it felt right, but didn't seem right since the bike wasn't undersized...I have relatively shorter legs and longer torso/arms, so nothing ever fits right), and was putting too much of my overweight self on my hands. The guy did similar, and put in a longer and lower stem, basically forcing my core to be more active. I mean, it did do that, but I couldn't ride as long because I my core was weak and I have shoulder issues also, so I tweaked it back some and do pretty well now (2900 miles on it last year). I ride FS mtbs, so my position is pretty variable anyway. |
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Originally Posted By Fourman: I know a few that have Light bicycle wheels and like them. Hunt is just a hard deal to beat IMHO. Today did 38 miles with 20.22mph average and 1500 feet of climbing....I am getting into the zone for racing. Nice pace! My current wheels are a hair under 1500 grams, so I'm not swapping unless it's substantially lighter. Not a high priority, either. |
More Driveway! DRIVEWAY 2026! March 26, 2026 - CAT 3/4 |
Living in the free state of Texas
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50hr air can service: Attached File Attached File |
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Remember to kick it over, no one will guide you through armagideon time...
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Remember to kick it over, no one will guide you through armagideon time...
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I miss racing. Moontower? Reference to/from Dazed And Confused (1993) ? |
License to slouch.
Mitchell!
Mitchell!
USPSA Master Race
Joined:
Feb 2023
Posts:
24092
EE: 100% (49)
WI, USA
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New helmet day. Fox Rampage RS Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By TheYellowThing: I miss racing. Moontower? Reference to/from Dazed And Confused (1993) ? Originally Posted By TheYellowThing: Moontower? Reference to/from Dazed And Confused (1993) ? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moonlight_tower |
Living in the free state of Texas
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My father in law was in Spain for work and got to see campagnolo's new I'm considering reprioritizing my hobby money to stock up on wear items.. they're becoming difficult enough to find as is. ETA - misheard or misunderstood him. It's a mech shifter that's ditched their traditional thumb paddle for a programmable button. Still not sure how that works. |
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Originally Posted By -Ascent-: New helmet day. Fox Rampage RS https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8678_jpeg-3739128.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8675_jpeg-3739129.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8674_jpeg-3739130.JPG Noice |
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Remember to kick it over, no one will guide you through armagideon time...
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Remember to kick it over, no one will guide you through armagideon time...
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Originally Posted By Dominion21: I have similar wrist issues: - no cartilage remaining between the scaphoid and the radius bones: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/417478/IMG_8568_jpeg-3735152.JPG I get by with: - cortisone injected between the bones 1x a year, - ibuprofen + acetaminophen before a ride, and - lidocaine + Valtoren + Penetrex (a DMSO cream) topically. It works for now. I’m switching to carbon-fiber bars soon. Do you think carbon bars will help with my wrists? Originally Posted By Dominion21: Originally Posted By AeroE: Originally Posted By AgeOne: be careful moving that seat forward as your also changing your knee deflection. then you end up with a bad wrist and a funky knee. considering the rise on that bar I don't know if your going to find a lot of options. I know surly makes some bars with a lot of sweep and rise. we had an older rider with a pretty radical bar from them. alternatively work on core strength to keep from putting so much stress on your hands. The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. I have similar wrist issues: - no cartilage remaining between the scaphoid and the radius bones: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/417478/IMG_8568_jpeg-3735152.JPG I get by with: - cortisone injected between the bones 1x a year, - ibuprofen + acetaminophen before a ride, and - lidocaine + Valtoren + Penetrex (a DMSO cream) topically. It works for now. I’m switching to carbon-fiber bars soon. Do you think carbon bars will help with my wrists? I don't know about the carbon bars, depending on construction (basically number of plies and layup schedule) they could be more flexible than metal bars. I want bars with a little sweep at an angle that puts my hands in a natural position. The Nitto68 bars sold by Rivendell look like they would work, but they are expensive and out of stock anyway. I forgot to post a photo of the current set up on my bike, I'll do that later. I received a cortisone shot last June when at my second visit to the hand surgeon after 15 months of constant pain. He just said to come back this coming June for another injection. That's not what I call fun . |
Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
I'm watching my back trail.
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Originally Posted By AeroE: I don't know about the carbon bars, depending on construction (basically number of plies and layup schedule) they could be more flexible than metal bars. I want bars with a little sweep at an angle that puts my hands in a natural position. The Nitto68 bars sold by Rivendell look like they would work, but they are expensive and out of stock anyway. I forgot to post a photo of the current set up on my bike, I'll do that later. I received a cortisone shot last June when at my second visit to the hand surgeon after 15 months of constant pain. He just said to come back this coming June for another injection. That's not what I call fun . Originally Posted By AeroE: Originally Posted By Dominion21: Originally Posted By AeroE: Originally Posted By AgeOne: be careful moving that seat forward as your also changing your knee deflection. then you end up with a bad wrist and a funky knee. considering the rise on that bar I don't know if your going to find a lot of options. I know surly makes some bars with a lot of sweep and rise. we had an older rider with a pretty radical bar from them. alternatively work on core strength to keep from putting so much stress on your hands. The pisiform bone in my right hand has no cartilage between it and adjacent bones. It's not in direct contact with the handlebar, but bending my wrist or load on my hand makes the constant pain worse. 12 to 14 miles is tolerable, I haven't ridden farther than that recently. I find myself a little too far forward on the seat in my natural position after riding a while, so I scoot back, but it's not natural. Moving the seat a half inch may fix that. I have very little bend in my knee at the bottom of the stroke, barely noticeable. I'm not changing that part of the set up, knee bend set to the old recommendations piles me up with reduced power and fatigue. It's terrible. I set the seat height on our bikes by marking the current setting on the seat posts with a marker, then moving the seats up or down while we were riding and re-marking the location. Later after several long weekend rides I readjusted just a tiny bit. The marker makes a simple reference for each adjustment. I have similar wrist issues: - no cartilage remaining between the scaphoid and the radius bones: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/417478/IMG_8568_jpeg-3735152.JPG I get by with: - cortisone injected between the bones 1x a year, - ibuprofen + acetaminophen before a ride, and - lidocaine + Valtoren + Penetrex (a DMSO cream) topically. It works for now. I’m switching to carbon-fiber bars soon. Do you think carbon bars will help with my wrists? I don't know about the carbon bars, depending on construction (basically number of plies and layup schedule) they could be more flexible than metal bars. I want bars with a little sweep at an angle that puts my hands in a natural position. The Nitto68 bars sold by Rivendell look like they would work, but they are expensive and out of stock anyway. I forgot to post a photo of the current set up on my bike, I'll do that later. I received a cortisone shot last June when at my second visit to the hand surgeon after 15 months of constant pain. He just said to come back this coming June for another injection. That's not what I call fun . The PNW loam carbon bars have a little more backwards sweep than most, 10° vs the standard 7 or 8°. I can tell the difference on longer rides. It sounds like you're looking for more than that, though. |
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Originally Posted By TZ250: Noice Originally Posted By TZ250: Originally Posted By -Ascent-: New helmet day. Fox Rampage RS https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8678_jpeg-3739128.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8675_jpeg-3739129.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163367/IMG_8674_jpeg-3739130.JPG Noice Thanks! I caught it on sale too. I’m pretty pumped. |
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: My father in law was in Spain for work and got to see campagnolo's new I'm considering reprioritizing my hobby money to stock up on wear items.. they're becoming difficult enough to find as is. ETA - misheard or misunderstood him. It's a mech shifter that's ditched their traditional thumb paddle for a programmable button. Still not sure how that works. |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By Fourman: I have seen the new 13 speed Campy and it is super nice....but waaaay out of my price. The cranks look great...but the Ultra-Torque setup is not really that great. That's an interesting take. What don't you like about ultra torque? I've got an ultra torque bottom bracket and crank from 2007, and while it does creak, there's no play. My brother in law used that bike for a triathlon last summer. I have a super record/ultra torque crank on my road bike and I think it's great. That said, the only non-campy road drivetrain I have to compare is my wife's 105 Di2 on her Roubaix. My mech campy is quieter, smoother, and faster shifting.  At the price difference, I guess it should be. |
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: That's an interesting take. What don't you like about ultra torque? I've got an ultra torque bottom bracket and crank from 2007, and while it does creak, there's no play. My brother in law used that bike for a triathlon last summer. I have a super record/ultra torque crank on my road bike and I think it's great. That said, the only non-campy road drivetrain I have to compare is my wife's 105 Di2 on her Roubaix. My mech campy is quieter, smoother, and faster shifting. At the price difference, I guess it should be. Originally Posted By Bourbonator: Originally Posted By Fourman: I have seen the new 13 speed Campy and it is super nice....but waaaay out of my price. The cranks look great...but the Ultra-Torque setup is not really that great. That's an interesting take. What don't you like about ultra torque? I've got an ultra torque bottom bracket and crank from 2007, and while it does creak, there's no play. My brother in law used that bike for a triathlon last summer. I have a super record/ultra torque crank on my road bike and I think it's great. That said, the only non-campy road drivetrain I have to compare is my wife's 105 Di2 on her Roubaix. My mech campy is quieter, smoother, and faster shifting. At the price difference, I guess it should be. https://www.hambini.com/teardown-campagnolo-ultra-torque-crankset-mechanics-explained-in-depth/ |
Living in the free state of Texas
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Originally Posted By Fourman: Hambini has a good article on it. He is kinda a big expert on BB's and such. He does not hold back on any mfg. https://www.hambini.com/teardown-campagnolo-ultra-torque-crankset-mechanics-explained-in-depth/ Fair Wheel puts campagnolo in the middle of the pack for stiffness, though lower on the list for stiffness to weight. I've heard hambini hasn't been the best at maintaining his credibility.. I'm not suggesting campy is the best, in fact, I'm sure it's not. But I like it. I'll have to try my brother in law's new road bike some time. He has force or red, I think. |
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Originally Posted By Bourbonator: Fair Wheel puts campagnolo in the middle of the pack for stiffness, though lower on the list for stiffness to weight. I've heard hambini hasn't been the best at maintaining his credibility.. I'm not suggesting campy is the best, in fact, I'm sure it's not. But I like it. I'll have to try my brother in law's new road bike some time. He has force or red, I think. Originally Posted By Bourbonator: Originally Posted By Fourman: Hambini has a good article on it. He is kinda a big expert on BB's and such. He does not hold back on any mfg. https://www.hambini.com/teardown-campagnolo-ultra-torque-crankset-mechanics-explained-in-depth/ Fair Wheel puts campagnolo in the middle of the pack for stiffness, though lower on the list for stiffness to weight. I've heard hambini hasn't been the best at maintaining his credibility.. I'm not suggesting campy is the best, in fact, I'm sure it's not. But I like it. I'll have to try my brother in law's new road bike some time. He has force or red, I think.
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Living in the free state of Texas
Official cyclist thread (Page 21 of 26)
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