OFFICIAL Post NFA 3D Printing Thread (Page 3 of 6)
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FTN Rimfires sound so fucking good. What a time to be alive! Attached File |
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Originally Posted By 2W0X1: lol https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/144839/IMG_5706_jpeg-3811543.JPG Originally Posted By 2W0X1: Originally Posted By Global_Cooling: Originally Posted By 2W0X1: What is everyone using for threaded adapters? I use these for the FTN.5 .22cal and they fit perfectly www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXRHDPHT lol https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/144839/IMG_5706_jpeg-3811543.JPG I've seen a lot of 3d cans printed but this is the first I have seen anything to do with trailer axle seals, what are those for? @2W0X1 |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: I've seen a lot of 3d cans printed but this is the first I have seen anything to do with trailer axle seals, what are those for? @2W0X1 Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By 2W0X1: Originally Posted By Global_Cooling: Originally Posted By 2W0X1: What is everyone using for threaded adapters? I use these for the FTN.5 .22cal and they fit perfectly www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXRHDPHT lol https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/144839/IMG_5706_jpeg-3811543.JPG I've seen a lot of 3d cans printed but this is the first I have seen anything to do with trailer axle seals, what are those for? @2W0X1 I really didn’t look at it too close. After I added the threaded adapters it suggested those items, which is more or less a BOM for a suppressor. Not really wanting that on my amazon account. I assume those seals can be used as baffles when combined with a 3d printed insert. But the ID of the pipe and OD of the seals are not a correct fit in what they suggest. |
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I'm doing calibration prints on Polymaker PA6-CF right now. I ordered my thread adapters from a USA supplier on Ebay that CNC machines them here in the USA. The out of center reviews on the Amazon thread adapters scared me away. Sure I'm paying $18 for the Ebay ones, but at least they have a higher chance of being centered. So far so good with the calibration prints though. I do have a conundrum with my printer though. Polymaker says bed temp needs to be 40-50C, but most other nylons are much higher like 100C. On my QIDI Plus 4 it doesn't engage the chamber heater unless the bed temp is higher than 70C, so apparently I can't utilize the chamber heating when using Polymaker filament. However, everything appears to be well stuck to the bed when I pop the flow calibration tests off. Upon reasearch it appears Polymaker requires higher printing temps, but lower bed temps because of something they add to the nylon. People get good results on Bambu P1S printers without a chamber heater, so I should be fine. 300BlkFDE print settings appear to be the ticket so far. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: I'm doing calibration prints on Polymaker PA6-CF right now. I ordered my thread adapters from a USA supplier on Ebay that CNC machines them here in the USA. The out of center reviews on the Amazon thread adapters scared me away. Sure I'm paying $18 for the Ebay ones, but at least they have a higher chance of being centered. So far so good with the calibration prints though. I do have a conundrum with my printer though. Polymaker says bed temp needs to be 40-50C, but most other nylons are much higher like 100C. On my QIDI Plus 4 it doesn't engage the chamber heater unless the bed temp is higher than 70C, so apparently I can't utilize the chamber heating when using Polymaker filament. However, everything appears to be well stuck to the bed when I pop the flow calibration tests off. Upon reasearch it appears Polymaker requires higher printing temps, but lower bed temps because of something they add to the nylon. People get good results on Bambu P1S printers without a chamber heater, so I should be fine. 300BlkFDE print settings appear to be the ticket so far. When printing PA6-CF I do 50C bed temp and 280C nozzle temp, no enclosure. ETA: You'll also want a steel nozzle if you're printing a lot of PA6-CF, it'll wear out brass nozzles quickly. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Since the Breek Arms blast shield was discontinued or hard to find looks like these people made one with same exterior dimensions but now Plan B muzzle device compatible. https://midstatefirearms.com/product/otx-plan-b-castle-blast-shield/ |
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Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: When printing PA6-CF I do 50C bed temp and 280C nozzle temp, no enclosure. ETA: You'll also want a steel nozzle if you're printing a lot of PA6-CF, it'll wear out brass nozzles quickly. 300C nozzle preferred for strongest parts. |
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Originally Posted By BigAJ: What is the wrap used in some pictures? What procedure is being used to anneal PA6-cf? If you're asking about my pictures above, it's hockey tape just for aesthetic purposes. Not needed for functionality. Some earlier models are wrapped in fiberglass/epoxy for strength. Annealing PA6 will vary slightly per manufacturer, but Polymaker recommends 100 degrees Celsius for 16 hours. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: FYI the FTN6 suppressor pack released today on the odd sea. 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By jacobsk: Bambu Labs printers and ecosystem is tough to beat - I have a P1S with the AMS and the fact that it just works is still amazing to me. We have almost 3k hours on our machine now. Picked up an A1mini for my oldest son so he wouldn’t hold the P1S all day making small stuff. That being said, I feel like the real value for people entering into 3D printing is the software and ecosystem Bambu offers. If you find a file online you want to print it offers you enough features to make it successful without offering SO many features that you can never figure it out. If you want to print a Christmas door stopper? Someone probably already designed it - you go to the Bambu app and just hit print. Dyson vacuum attachments? Hit print. Milwaukee battery holder? Already dozens of options to choose from. Of course, if you have the ability to model your own 3D cad. It’s amazing having a printer You used the word “Ecosystem”…. That gives me pause for when the .gov leans on these companies to stop us from making parts they don’t like. The less complicated and bare bones, the better. Do they need an internet connection to run? |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By Blob: DB Alloy 9mm with FTN4.5 printed PCC suppressor https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000019705_jpg-3810795.JPG …..tell me that has an FRT in it…. Please tell me…. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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I’ve got a 22 can printed in PA6-CF and since then, none of my prints want to play nice 😞. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Amped: I’ve got a 22 can printed in PA6-CF and since then, none of my prints want to play nice 😞. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_1953_jpeg-3812357.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2112_jpeg-3812358.JPG Did you thoroughly dry (100C for 12-24 hours) before printing and then keep it heated and dry during the course of the print and afterwards? |
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Originally Posted By oulufinn: Are the Bambu better than the Prusa as far as quality is concerned and is the security difference enough to choose Prusa, or something else over Bambu for 2A stuff? Ease of use or type of compatible files something to consider? I have 2 Prusas. They have been rock solid. I just transfer all my files 10 feet on a jump drive and print away. |
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Originally Posted By 13MIKE: I have 2 Prusas. They have been rock solid. I just transfer all my files 10 feet on a jump drive and print away. Originally Posted By 13MIKE: Originally Posted By oulufinn: Are the Bambu better than the Prusa as far as quality is concerned and is the security difference enough to choose Prusa, or something else over Bambu for 2A stuff? Ease of use or type of compatible files something to consider? I have 2 Prusas. They have been rock solid. I just transfer all my files 10 feet on a jump drive and print away. Thanks! Got some time before pulling this trigger, so this kind of info will help when the time comes. It sounds like they're all coming out with new features and capabilities too. Interesting times! 
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: You used the word “Ecosystem”…. That gives me pause for when the .gov leans on these companies to stop us from making parts they don’t like. The less complicated and bare bones, the better. Do they need an internet connection to run? Prusa's definitely do not, one of the reasons I went with them. The government could stop 3D printers and spare parts from being sold, but as far a Prusa's that are already out there, they'd keep running until something irreplaceable broke or wore out. |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: You used the word “Ecosystem”…. That gives me pause for when the .gov leans on these companies to stop us from making parts they don’t like. The less complicated and bare bones, the better. Do they need an internet connection to run? Yes, bambu printers work fine without the internet. Mine's never seen the internet. You do lose out on some nice to have features, like syncing the ams with the slicer, checking on prints from your phone and starting jobs from your phone. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By gotigers: Work has a couple of titanium sinterstation 3D printers. Now, i need an open cell foam metal model i can propagate into a nice cylinder with a 1.4"ish OD and a .35" ID. Our current foam metal is too dense for it. I don't think my job would have let me print somethings with inconel. Then again, neither would have California. |
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Originally Posted By Amped: I’ve got a 22 can printed in PA6-CF and since then, none of my prints want to play nice 😞. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_1953_jpeg-3812357.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2112_jpeg-3812358.JPG What's that can? (The good one, lol.) |
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Originally Posted By Blob: This. But really, they're cheap enough that who cares? If ultimate longevity is your main concern then just go buy a factory metal can. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By D_Man: From 1 to possibly infinite rounds, depending on a lot of factors.  This. But really, they're cheap enough that who cares? If ultimate longevity is your main concern then just go buy a factory metal can. I mean for practical purposes. Can they last a firefight or a match? |
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Originally Posted By xerxes2695: I mean for practical purposes. Can they last a firefight or a match? Like Dman said, depends on a lot of factors. Caliber, barrel length, quality of print and build, firing schedule, all of those factor in. But generally yes they should last a good long time without too many issues unless you're mag dumping from a 5.56 SBR. A well built 9mm PCC can should not give you any problems. I've put a couple hundred rounds through mine so far without issue. |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: Just started a FTN6 .22 PA6-CF. will see in @ 13 hrs what it turns out like I got 20 hours left on my FTN5 Rimfire Flow. I got to say PA6-CF is some tough stuff. I decided to cancel my first print 4 hours in because I saw it was struggling printing the overhangs and I had some bits not adhere to the next layer when it was going in a circle movement on the overhang. So, stopped the print then redid my slicer settings and that seemed to fix the issue. Anyway I tried some destruction testing and got to say I'm impressed. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Why the hell your rimfire cans taking so long? My slicer preview says around 5 hours with 0.6nozzle at 30mm/s. Using 300BlkFDE print settings. That's how he rolls hot and slow. I'm using a 0.4 nozzle too. The flow version does add time because it's larger. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: Since the Breek Arms blast shield was discontinued or hard to find looks like these people made one with same exterior dimensions but now Plan B muzzle device compatible. https://midstatefirearms.com/product/otx-plan-b-castle-blast-shield/ That is interesting. I have at least a half dozen of the original Breek Arms blast shields with the 13-13/16 threads. Not sure if I want to swap all my muzzle devices over the Plan B, but would consider it. |
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Originally Posted By farfromhome: Where are you all getting the stl files for the cans? Use the guncad index (dot com). Search for FTN.6 and follow the link to the odysee page. Odysee is notoriously difficult to search so the guncad index was created to actually be able to find stuff. |
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The discussion seems to be mostly silencers in here, so I'll change it up a little. Who's seen a good printed lower that I can use with my 4.5" 22lr upper? I'm looking for one that I can put a folding stock on (bonus points for cool side folding stock stls). I've seen a couple that look like a standard ar lower but with a pic rail on the back of the receiver where the receiver extension would normally go. If theres a lower that is set up to use an HK style telescoping stock, that might be cool as well. Thanks in advance! |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: The discussion seems to be mostly silencers in here, so I'll change it up a little. Who's seen a good printed lower that I can use with my 4.5" 22lr upper? I'm looking for one that I can put a folding stock on (bonus points for cool side folding stock stls). I've seen a couple that look like a standard ar lower but with a pic rail on the back of the receiver where the receiver extension would normally go. If theres a lower that is set up to use an HK style telescoping stock, that might be cool as well. Thanks in advance! The DeAR22 is the first to come to mind. There are a couple different lower options, but full disclosure I am not sure if they are compatible with standard uppers since it is meant to be an entirely printed gun. Attached File Otherwise Hoffman Tactical Super lowers are compatible with most standard uppers. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: The DeAR22 is the first to come to mind. There are a couple different lower options, but full disclosure I am not sure if they are compatible with standard uppers since it is meant to be an entirely printed gun. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/Screenshot_2026-08-16_223234_jpg-3812667.JPG Otherwise Hoffman Tactical Super lowers are compatible with most standard uppers. that looks pretty close, it definitely doesn't use cmmg pattern mags though. I'll look into the project |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: The discussion seems to be mostly silencers in here, so I'll change it up a little. Who's seen a good printed lower that I can use with my 4.5" 22lr upper? I'm looking for one that I can put a folding stock on (bonus points for cool side folding stock stls). I've seen a couple that look like a standard ar lower but with a pic rail on the back of the receiver where the receiver extension would normally go. If theres a lower that is set up to use an HK style telescoping stock, that might be cool as well. Thanks in advance! DEAR22 is one that's fully 3D printed, upper and all. There's a Hoffman tactical remix out there for 22LR to attach folding stocks, etc. guncadindex (dot) com For AR printed lowers I think I'm sticking with Hoffman versions right now. They all print well and his newer ones with the built in pistol grip are very strong. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Did you thoroughly dry (100C for 12-24 hours) before printing and then keep it heated and dry during the course of the print and afterwards? It was dry. I also had issues printing TPU and after investigating, I found my nozzle tip is missing so it went from a .4 (hardened) to probably .40 which is no good. Ordered a set of replacement harden nozzles which will be here in a few days. |
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Originally Posted By seek2: What's that can? (The good one, lol.) @seek2 Here you go ETA. Mods if links are no good, my bad |
| When I was a wayward boy scout, I dreamt up that ceramic washers could be used in plastic suppressors as blast baffles to extend the life of the can. In my metal suppressors the first two chambers/baffles seem to take the worst in terms of lead buildup so plan on at least two. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: Maybe the injunction applies to arfcom as well Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: Originally Posted By seek2: Thanks! I think names are OK but links aren't, but I haven't seen anyone get in trouble for it here in the last couple days. Maybe the injunction applies to arfcom as well  Let's hope so. |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: When I was a wayward boy scout, I dreamt up that ceramic washers could be used in plastic suppressors as blast baffles to extend the life of the can. In my metal suppressors the first two chambers/baffles seem to take the worst in terms of lead buildup so plan on at least two. The FTN6 looks to use a fender washer to help it wear better. |