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Posted: 2/16/2021 12:08:44 AM EDT
Looking to get a beginner MTB and I've somewhat narrowed it down to a Trek Marlin 6 or a GT Aggressor Expert. Looked at a Giant and a Specialized too, but it seems like most in this range differ only in the frame and brand sticker.
I guess my big question is if I plan on throwing parts at it as I grow as a rider (new fork for instance), would either of these have a real advantage over eachother? |
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[#1]
Marlin 6 ETA buy once cry once. If it were me I would be looking at something in $1200 to $1800 range.
In particular the Trek X-Caliber 9. |
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[#2]
Most of my use will be on concrete with occasional novice dirt trail use. Would I still be better off going that far up?
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[#3]
The thing with novice dirt trails is you will get better and adventure out to more challenging trails. Buy for what you will ride in a year or lomger not what you will ride day 1.
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[#4]
Trying to keep it under $800 or so. This will be a learning bike that will likely get replaced with an entirely different and much more expensive bike once I've learned what I like and where my skill set caps out at. I see now my idea of upgrading a beginner bike isn't the best concept. I'd hate the throw $1500 at a bike I'll probably only ride for a year before getting something a bit better.
Is Haro any good? I saw a bunch of people recommending the Haro Double Peak 29 Trail. Saw some people saying the Shimano hydraulics are quite a bit better than the Tektro hydraulics everything else in that range comes with. https://harobikes.com/products/double-peak-29-trail-2021 Also ruling out the Marlin 6 based on the head tube angle. Never once considered that as a factor but it makes sense after some reading. |
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[#5]
Quoted: I guess my big question is if I plan on throwing parts at it as I grow as a rider (new fork for instance), would either of these have a real advantage over eachother? View Quote Don't plan on that. First, entry-level frames often have standards (headset, bottom bracket, axle) that don't work with higher-end parts. Second, you go down the rabbit-hole real quick, where changing one component requires changing 3 or 4 others. You end up spending more overall than you would have for a better bike to begin with. Buy the entry-level bike. Ride the heck out of it, see if MTB sticks with you. If it doesn't, no big loss. If it does, sell the bike and buy a better one. |
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[#6]
If you plan on riding your bike 80-90% on hard surfaces I would look closer at a Cross style bike. They have higher bottom brackets than a road bike which would allow for trail clearance, but a longer trail so they are not as twitchy. They have wider stays which allow the use of wider tires which will give a more softer ride while giving the ability to maneuver across softer, more rugged terrain. Also, they will be more geared for use on hard surfaces but still allow lower gearing for hills. You can run a double, or triple chainring. Mtn Bikes are geared more to well... mountains/hills and steep terrain. A Cross bike will allow a wider gear range and the ability to swap to a more road friendly cassette should you find yourself on flatter ground more often.
You can use drops and use brifters. Or lose the drops and add a flatbar/moustache bar and a higher stem to allow for a more upright ride which would be more comfortable/enjoyable. I mean if you like riding tucked most of the time, good for you, many recreational/casual riders don't. I don't know you or how you ride so I cannot make that recommendation. However, a cross style or gravel grinder will offer more flexibility to the rider who is planning to ride mainly on hard surfaces. I would also avoid a bike that has any suspension system if you plan on riding primarily on the road. They do soak up the bumps but at a cost. They weigh quite a bit more than a rigid fork and they sap energy as you stand and pump for hills. A carbon fiber fork will soak up road vibration and keep the hand buzz down plus they weigh substantially less than a shock. A cross/style bike will give you lots of braze-ons like a mountain bike will that will afford one to attach things like fenders, water bottle cages, Panniers, porteur rack while a traditional style road bike wont, except for tourers. |
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[#7]
Buy a good used bike in the style you think you’ll like. Beat the shit out it and laugh at the money saved.
If it’s what you want now drop the big money on the model you want. |
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[#8]
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[#9]
View Quote I read a lot about this one and it would be my first choice but they apparently quit shipping bikes to the US due to the shortage and have awful customer service for US owners. |
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[#10]
Quoted: I read a lot about this one and it would be my first choice but they apparently quit shipping bikes to the US due to the shortage and have awful customer service for US owners. View Quote Watch chainreactioncycles.com. They carry vitus, and other lesser known brands. Like everyone else, they are having a shortage. Be ready to buy quickly! I have ordered two bikes from them in the past and usually have my bike in 2 days from the UK to Georgia with free shipping. |
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[#11]
I might try to hold out for the Vitus considering the weather. There's a lot I'm liking.
-Comes with an air shock. -Dropper post ready. -Sealed bearings. -Tapered head tube. -Clutched 10 speed. -Tubeless ready. I've heard the Tektro brakes suck compared to the Shimanos, but it looks like that's a cheaper upgrade than the front air fork would be in comparison. That's assuming I even want/need to upgrade for my use. And what the hell happened with bike drivetrains? Back in the day an 18 speed was more than a 10 speed for obvious reasons. Now it's the opposite and everything comes standard with more gears and you have to pay more to get less. |
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[#12]
Your gearing range is all in the cassette now, not in the combination of the cassette and chainrings. What you used to have to do with 3 up front and 9 in the back can be done with 1 up front and 11 or 12 in the back. Chain drops and chain slap are a thing of the past. That spot on your bars where the front shifter used to be is now free for a dropper lever.
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[#13]
Quoted: I might try to hold out for the Vitus considering the weather. There's a lot I'm liking. -Comes with an air shock. -Dropper post ready. -Sealed bearings. -Tapered head tube. -Clutched 10 speed. -Tubeless ready. I've heard the Tektro brakes suck compared to the Shimanos, but it looks like that's a cheaper upgrade than the front air fork would be in comparison. That's assuming I even want/need to upgrade for my use. And what the hell happened with bike drivetrains? Back in the day an 18 speed was more than a 10 speed for obvious reasons. Now it's the opposite and everything comes standard with more gears and you have to pay more to get less. View Quote You won't miss the 3x7-8 drivetrain after going to a 1x10-12. A lot of the gearings in a 3x are going to be redundant so all you're going to get is extra weight, a longer chain and a higher likelihood of chain drop. You also have one less thing to worry about while riding. There's a lot to like about the specs on that Vitus, especially the clutched derailleur. That's going to save a lot of grief for chain drops and chain slap. |
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[#14]
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[#15]
I like that Rocky Mountain over the Vitus.
What size bike are you looking for? |
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[#16]
29 Large. Probably wouldn't pass up on a good deal for a 27.5 though.
ETA: I could probably even go XL since I'm 6'. I weigh 210 and I've read at my bulk I should probably try my best to get an air fork. I've also read good things about Suntour's upgrade program too if need be. |
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[#17]
Still all over the place on this but a third option has me second guessing.
Is it feasible to build a 26" bike from a 2013 full suspension GT frame? It's tapered head tube, but would I be able to put a modern drive train and brakes on it? Really liking this possibility as I could learn a ton and piece it together the way I want it over time. |
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[#18]
Others will come in and defend the 26” wheel, but it’s dead. Stick with 29 and you won’t be sorry. The only place 26” fits on a modern bike is a dirt jumper.
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[#19]
Quoted: If you plan on riding your bike 80-90% on hard surfaces I would look closer at a Cross style bike. They have higher bottom brackets than a road bike which would allow for trail clearance, but a longer trail so they are not as twitchy. They have wider stays which allow the use of wider tires which will give a more softer ride while giving the ability to maneuver across softer, more rugged terrain. Also, they will be more geared for use on hard surfaces but still allow lower gearing for hills. You can run a double, or triple chainring. Mtn Bikes are geared more to well... mountains/hills and steep terrain. A Cross bike will allow a wider gear range and the ability to swap to a more road friendly cassette should you find yourself on flatter ground more often. You can use drops and use brifters. Or lose the drops and add a flatbar/moustache bar and a higher stem to allow for a more upright ride which would be more comfortable/enjoyable. I mean if you like riding tucked most of the time, good for you, many recreational/casual riders don't. I don't know you or how you ride so I cannot make that recommendation. However, a cross style or gravel grinder will offer more flexibility to the rider who is planning to ride mainly on hard surfaces. I would also avoid a bike that has any suspension system if you plan on riding primarily on the road. They do soak up the bumps but at a cost. They weigh quite a bit more than a rigid fork and they sap energy as you stand and pump for hills. A carbon fiber fork will soak up road vibration and keep the hand buzz down plus they weigh substantially less than a shock. A cross/style bike will give you lots of braze-ons like a mountain bike will that will afford one to attach things like fenders, water bottle cages, Panniers, porteur rack while a traditional style road bike wont, except for tourers. View Quote Agree with this whole heartedly and tell people the same all the time! MTB's on the road suck donkey kong, especially those with suspensions. They're slow, squishy and just not enjoyable on the road. A cyclocross/gravel road/all-road bike will do great on the road and great in the woods. If you're not doing jumps, the suspension is meaningless; your arms and legs will be your suspension. I ride my Gravel bike (similar to cyclocross, just set up for longer rides) on MTB trails all the time. In the summer I thrown slicks on it, a rack with a bag and commute to work on it. If you can only have one bike, this style is what to get. If you then find yourself wanting to do actual MTBing, no roads, then get a MTB. Why have one bike when you can have two (I'm down from six to three and am about to go up to four) |
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[#20]
I do plan to be doing jumps, starting with the small stuff. There's a multi trail park a couple miles away from me with 10 miles of varying difficulty options. Never even knew it was there before.
And the 26" stuff seems to be dying, but that's part of the draw for me. Wheel and tire options suck, but take off Fox shocks and full suspension frames for $300 everywhere is pretty appealing. Aside from the frame, forks, wheels, and tires, are there any other size specific differences? |
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[#21]
My Trek came w/ a made in china sticker. I thought they were from Wisconsin or similar. I should have done more research...
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[#22]
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[#23]
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[#24]
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[#25]
Quoted: Agree with this whole heartedly and tell people the same all the time! MTB's on the road suck donkey kong, especially those with suspensions. They're slow, squishy and just not enjoyable on the road. A cyclocross/gravel road/all-road bike will do great on the road and great in the woods. If you're not doing jumps, the suspension is meaningless; your arms and legs will be your suspension. I ride my Gravel bike (similar to cyclocross, just set up for longer rides) on MTB trails all the time. In the summer I thrown slicks on it, a rack with a bag and commute to work on it. If you can only have one bike, this style is what to get. If you then find yourself wanting to do actual MTBing, no roads, then get a MTB. Why have one bike when you can have two (I'm down from six to three and am about to go up to four) View Quote @michaelrm After doing some reading this is where I am at on a new bike. Haven't ridden since before I was 16, but wife and I want to get back into this year after renting a few times last year. Will probably be pulling my 4 year old in a trailer on rails to trails type stuff and light off rode Do you have any thoughts on the Salsa Journeyman Claris flatbar? Shteet doing some researchi have been looking at that |
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[#26]
I would recommend not going maybe over one level up on an entry level hardtail from a large brand, such as those you mentioned. I rode the heck out of a Gary Fisher (now Trek) hardtail for years before biting the bullet and stepping into carbon bikes.
The key is whether you take to riding or not. It became an outlet I desperately needed at the time and grew to really enjoy riding. Ride your entry level until you increase your capabilities. Far too often people buy more bike than they need and never learn to actually ride the bike properly or it just sits in the garage. |
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[#27]
Good bike shops will either let you rent to go on a trial ride before you buy. I suggest going that route before making a final decision. Remember that more $$$ gets you a lighter bike with better components.
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[#28]
Quoted: @michaelrm After doing some reading this is where I am at on a new bike. Haven't ridden since before I was 16, but wife and I want to get back into this year after renting a few times last year. Will probably be pulling my 4 year old in a trailer on rails to trails type stuff and light off rode Do you have any thoughts on the Salsa Journeyman Claris flatbar? Shteet doing some researchi have been looking at that View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Agree with this whole heartedly and tell people the same all the time! MTB's on the road suck donkey kong, especially those with suspensions. They're slow, squishy and just not enjoyable on the road. A cyclocross/gravel road/all-road bike will do great on the road and great in the woods. If you're not doing jumps, the suspension is meaningless; your arms and legs will be your suspension. I ride my Gravel bike (similar to cyclocross, just set up for longer rides) on MTB trails all the time. In the summer I thrown slicks on it, a rack with a bag and commute to work on it. If you can only have one bike, this style is what to get. If you then find yourself wanting to do actual MTBing, no roads, then get a MTB. Why have one bike when you can have two (I'm down from six to three and am about to go up to four) @michaelrm After doing some reading this is where I am at on a new bike. Haven't ridden since before I was 16, but wife and I want to get back into this year after renting a few times last year. Will probably be pulling my 4 year old in a trailer on rails to trails type stuff and light off rode Do you have any thoughts on the Salsa Journeyman Claris flatbar? Shteet doing some researchi have been looking at that Salsa makes a great bike, very cool choice! For the type of riding you will be doing I don't see it as being a handicap and the bike is a solid win for everything you are looking for out of a bike. A friend has a few Salsa's and they are very nicely built (frames/paint) and the components are easily upgradeable/replicable if need be. The price point seems to be exactly what you're looking for as well, seems like a win all around. |
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[#29]
Quoted: Do you have any thoughts on the Salsa Journeyman Claris flatbar? Shteet doing some researchi have been looking at that View Quote I have a Surly Karate Monkey frameset in the guest room and someday I plan to build it up with 650B wheels and fat tires. I should ride just like the Bridge Club, but it won't look as nice. Bridge Club Attached File My Karate Monkey built up as a 29'er Attached File |
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[#30]
Quoted: Salsas are good bikes and if you are interested in he Journeyman, also take a look at their sister company, Surly. If I were bikeless and looking for a good all-rounder, I would probably buy the Bridge Club 650B (vs the 700 c model). I have a Surly Karate Monkey frameset in the guest room and someday I plan to build it up with 650B wheels and fat tires. I should ride just like the Bridge Club, but it won't look as nice. Bridge Club https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/42575/BridgeClub_BK2267-2000x1333_jpg-1862554.JPG My Karate Monkey built up as a 29'er https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/42575/Karate_Monkey_JPG-1862563.JPG View Quote Very nice. Thanks for the recommendation |
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[#31]
I think I finally made up my mind. It's only a 27.5" but I think I need to learn handling before I learn speed anyway.
https://www.rei.com/product/159856/co-op-cycles-drt-21-bike |
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[#32]
Quoted: I think I finally made up my mind. It's only a 27.5" but I think I need to learn handling before I learn speed anyway. https://www.rei.com/product/159856/co-op-cycles-drt-21-bike View Quote Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. |
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[#33]
Right now you will be lucky to find anything. Most shops I go to have nothing under $1500. I went into it thinking hardtail carbon frame.
Ended up with Scott Spark carbon xc bike. Really like it so far Attached File |
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[#34]
If you have a Norco dealer take a look at them before you pull the trigger on the REI co op
I just got my wife a Storm 3( so so equipment group) which is pretty basic but we were at $800. I wanted to get her a the same bike with a little better equipment but everything is hard to find especially for her being a small women’s frame. I am a big believer in buying from a local shop “if” they have a good reputation. Newer bikes are high tech and my local Norco dealer does free adjustments for original owner etc . There are a lot of used parts that are perfect for upgrading as long as you have a frame worth investing in. Check out the Norco Fluid series HT2 is $1199 |
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[#35]
I’ve got the Trek Marlin 6. So far I like it. I’ve owned it around two years. I like the option to lock out the front suspension when I’m riding. It’s pretty light weight and the cables are tucked inside the frame, which I like. Go try it out. Also try out comparable models from other brands.
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[#36]
I bought a Trek Marlin 5, 3 weeks ago.
Today, I traded it in, 30 day return policy)on a Scott Scale 965. I really love the Scott. |
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