My 72 K20 rebuild thread. (Page 4 of 9)
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Originally Posted By Master_Shake_TX: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: It's an edelbrock with electric choke. I asked on a chevy forum and rhey suggested adjusting the choke along with making sure the linkages were not binding. I plan on messing with it tomorrow. Well I adjusted the electric choke like they showed in the video and no change. It still wants to stay in a higher rpm even while driving but will kick down to idle if you push the accelerator in and Rev it. Could this be caused by the brake booster malfunctioning? Ever since I noticed this the brake light has been on in the dash. Previously it would come on once in a while but I never noticed this issue at the time.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtcBAUHJJBMI will try that. |
3-7-77
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Well I finally got around to messing with the idle screws on the carb. You could smell the truck was running rich. I bought a vacuum gauge and hooked it up to the drivers side carb port. At idle it was bouncing all over the map. I turned both screws in all the way and backed them out to 1.5. After fine tuning each side the gauge smoothed out. The passenger side screw was richer than the drivers side when I was done. I did the procedure multiple times and came up with the same settings. I also ran new vacuum hose from my dash gauge to the ds carb port and moved the vacuum advance for the distributor to the passenger side. I did this before I adjusted everything. There was a small vacuum leak on the old hose going to the gauge. For some reason the gauge in the dash doesn't move now? It is just steady. Maybe because of the new carb settings? I also tried to adjust the passenger side door. I am not a body guy so I am having a rough time trying to get it moved. Any Insight? I loosened up the hinges and the strike. I moved the door around but I just couldn't get it to work. 
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Originally Posted By paulthepreacherman: It’s a really good looking truck. It looks like your striker needs to move toward the seat. Are you out of movement? If I move the striker in, I can't close the door. The seal prevents it. I removed the seal and tried to adjust the door. I could get it pretty close. Once I put the seal back in, it won't shut. I guess I could try new door seals? |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By paulthepreacherman: If the door seals are stiff, then yes. But sometimes new door seals have to loosen up, so it can compound the problem. How old are they? They look fairly new. They are the newer style with the metal built onto them. Not the original glue in. I talked to a gentleman the other night who informed me of the proper way to adjust the door. I ended up having to modify a 9/16" wrench so I could access the hinges bolts on the a pillar. Once I did that I could move the door back closer to the striker plate. Then I loosened the hinges on the door side and adjusted the doors depth high and low. He also informed me the door seal with metal can be quite tight, which it is. He recommended I order the original glue in. It only took me 3 ish hours. Lots of busted knuckles and swearing but it closes. It's a little tight but the seams are much closer and I'm okay with my small victory. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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| I've heard that honda accord door seals work really well on the 67-72 trucks (like better than the new ones built for the trucks). I know there have been a few threads on the 67-72 truck board on that subject. Might want to look into that if you ever decide to change them out. |
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Originally Posted By BASE: I've heard that honda accord door seals work really well on the 67-72 trucks (like better than the new ones built for the trucks). I know there have been a few threads on the 67-72 truck board on that subject. Might want to look into that if you ever decide to change them out. I had read something about that as well. This one was really tight at the bottom of the door. I took a soft blow hammer and bent in the bottom ridge that it rides on. That helped a ton. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By paulthepreacherman: Looks great! Thanks, brother. How is yours coming? Not much to report today. It was a beautiful winter day so I decided to wash her up.  https://www.instagram.com/p/CZsX3EMreWC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link The frame with the 427 is in my stepdad's shop. He is mounting the fuel tank and running the brake lines. Next is to mount the rear disc brakes, and go through everything. I would take some pics but he is 45 mins away from me. I will try and get out there in a week or so. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By the1919man: This is a really, really sharp looking truck. Awesome work so far!! Thank you. She isn't perfect by any means but I am not afraid to drive her. I averaged 10.3mpg on my last tank of fuel. Not bad. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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I need some tow hooks if anyone knows of a source, please let me know. I also need a oem stereo in working order. Thanks |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By Boomer: Are you looking for OEM or just something functional. The OEM ones on eBay -  Originally Posted By Boomer: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I need some tow hooks if anyone knows of a source, please let me know. Are you looking for OEM or just something functional. The OEM ones on eBay - Oem. Some people are asking stupid amounts of money for them and it's out of hand. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By BASE: I’m not sure what it is about those old hooks they have gotten out of hand. Last pair I saw sell on the truck forum went for $800. Maybe it’s because nobody makes a knockoff that even looks close. The hooks and the old hubcaps too. At those prices you would think someone would be making reproductions. |
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Originally Posted By Boomer: At those prices, you would think someone would be making reproductions. Originally Posted By Boomer: Originally Posted By BASE: I’m not sure what it is about those old hooks they have gotten out of hand. Last pair I saw sell on the truck forum went for $800. Maybe it’s because nobody makes a knockoff that even looks close. The hooks and the old hubcaps too. At those prices, you would think someone would be making reproductions. Yeah, its out of hand... I think I saw someone who was reproducing them but I don't recall where. The hub caps are another oddity. They are cool looking but definitely not worth, at least to me, what some people are paying for them. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Thanks! Well a bit of work has happened since my last post. The other Frame is almost done. I need to run one more fuel line and the wired for the efi and we should be ready for the body swap. I am currently looking at this exhaust: https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/american_thunder/parts/817940 A member of another forum said he has that exhaust with thr same long tune header that I am running and he made it work with a little modification on the passenger side. Which is awesome if true. Only way yo find out is to order it and start installing. One exhaust shop quoted me 750 just to have it done locally, which is the same price but they want a driving vehicle. Mine won't be able to drive due to the truck having efi and there wouldn't be a place for the o2 sensor to mount with no current exhaust. One pic I took while setting up the efi system.  |
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Semi successful day. Serpentine pulley system is almost done. I just need a key and nut for the power steering pulley. Fuel lines are run to the tank. I just need a few more adapters for the tank along with a few clamps to secure it to the back of the motor.   
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By Superluckycat: That is a good looking truck. Is that color GM Hugger Orange? I painted an old CJ I had that color. Really pops. Thank you. Honestly, I don't know. The truck has been repainted at one point and I am not sure what color they used. My plan is to paint the cab top white to help offset the orange. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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| Well, I just picked up a tilt wheel for the truck. The previous owner says it has a little play in a few positions but supposidly there is a way to tighten it up. Does anyone here know how? |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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| Fuel lines are done. I need to finish up some wiring and I'm calling gear vendors to see what a setup like that would cost. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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I'm glad carburetors are in history now. They remind me of a miniature automatic transmission, the heart of which is a "hydraulic computer" of sorts. Carb isn't as in-depth as transmission, but the similar genetics are visible. Carburetor Valve Body:  Automatic Transmission valve body:  Amazing capabilities and tech in their eras and even now, all the "logic switching" of shifting and deciding which bit gets pressurized/opened next in different modes/conditions. Just don't miss any bits when reassembling as it'll all go screwy (both carb and automatic transmission). The rockets we sent toward the moon also had sort of similar engine control hydraulic systems, but on a much larger scale. Electronic switching of valves/spark/fuel injection have made things more efficient, but have their own downsides when it comes to DIY repair. I can deal with a lawnmower or other small engine carburetor, but not a 4 barrel without a thick illustrated manual and more than one spare parts kit (kind of like AR detent pins and springs - have extras). "Just re-jet it, they said...." Seems so straightforward and simple, but so far from simple at the same time. Whereas with a transmission, you know what you're going to be getting into ahead of time and won't accidentally pop that cover off looking for a setting.  As for the exact topic, I have no clue where you should start, but that's good because I've messed up more carbs than transmissions when wrenching. |
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
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Originally Posted By brass: I'm glad carburetors are in history now. They remind me of a miniature automatic transmission, the heart of which is a "hydraulic computer" of sorts. Carb isn't as in-depth as transmission, but the similar genetics are visible. Carburetor Valve Body: https://i.imgur.com/h8eXIX4.jpg Automatic Transmission valve body: https://i.imgur.com/JZcp8j0.jpg Amazing capabilities and tech in their eras and even now, all the "logic switching" of shifting and deciding which bit gets pressurized/opened next in different modes/conditions. Just don't miss any bits when reassembling as it'll all go screwy (both carb and automatic transmission). The rockets we sent toward the moon also had sort of similar engine control hydraulic systems, but on a much larger scale. Electronic switching of valves/spark/fuel injection have made things more efficient, but have their own downsides when it comes to DIY repair. I can deal with a lawnmower or other small engine carburetor, but not a 4 barrel without a thick illustrated manual and more than one spare parts kit (kind of like AR detent pins and springs - have extras). "Just re-jet it, they said...." Seems so straightforward and simple, but so far from simple at the same time. Whereas with a transmission, you know what you're going to be getting into ahead of time and won't accidentally pop that cover off looking for a setting. As for the exact topic, I have no clue where you should start, but that's good because I've messed up more carbs than transmissions when wrenching. I went through the th400 trans we installed behind the 427. It was quite interesting to see how intricate it was. Hopefully I put it together correctly. I guess only time will tell!
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By Superluckycat: Don't worry. There's always leftover parts. Originally Posted By Superluckycat: Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: I went through the th400 trans we installed behind the 427. It was quite interesting to see how intricate it was. Hopefully I put it together correctly. I guess only time will tell! Totally normal. :) |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Well our saga continues. We want to swap out the front and rear diffs to either gm 14 bolt w/ 3.73s or 4.10s. We would like to be able to cruise down the road at 70mph with little effort but also be able to do burnouts and have plenty of get up and go. Which gear ratio would you recommend? What about limited slip or open differentials? |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Originally Posted By TOTHEMAX: Well our saga continues. We want to swap out the front and rear diffs to either gm 14 bolt w/ 3.73s or 4.10s. We would like to be able to cruise down the road at 70mph with little effort but also be able to do burnouts and have plenty of get up and go. Which gear ratio would you recommend? What about limited slip or open differentials? https://purperformance.com/p-29669-rpm-calculator.html |
Thanks. Here is what it spat out.  Not a huge difference but a few hundred rpm adds up. I have a lead on a limited slip rear diff out of an 08 3/4ton with 3.73s and a set of 4.10s out of a 74 3/4 ton. |
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Another thought. Replace the th400 with a 4l80e. That way we have .75 od gear and it's built for the hp of the motor. With my 456s I would be at 2600 rpms at 75mph. |
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From what I read the 4l80e and the 6l80e are both candidates. They are similar but the 6l has one more gear. Both can be built up to handle the hp. Both need a stand alone computer. I think holley makes one Has anyone done this or know about it? What about mating them up with my np205 transfer case? |
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Well I goofed up and didn't take pictures of the process but I hated the stereo that was in the truck. The previous owner cut the dash for an aftermarket radio (I hate that!) And it didn't fit the look of the truck. I found a classic looking stereo on ebay and a pre cut dash plate from Facebook marketplace. Sweet, should be am easy process. Wrong! After painting the precut piece I found put it didn't fit. It didn't fit the dash curves and it didn't fit the stereo. Wth. So plan b. I cut one out of a piece of aluminum and fit it behind the dash giving stability to the hole. I adjusted the radio so it's trim piece covered the hole. I had to wire it in, which took a little bit but it turned out perfectly. 
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Well I bought a used 4l80e transmission for it. It was on Facebook marketplace and only a short drive away. The previous owner bought it for his 90s Era Chevy and found out his transmission lines won't mate up to it. He bought it from a guy who ran it behind a diesel and removed it for a 5speed. He said it had been rebuilt but had no paperwork. It has an ats diesel torque converter so that is a clue that someone put some money into it. I wish there was a way to easily identify a shift kit or upgrades done internally. Anyone know without tearing it completely apart? I need a Trans pan for it. The mag hytecs are nice. I'll try and find one on sale. I also need an adapter kit for a np205 transfer case, along with cooling lines and a cooler.  
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Little update. We are slowing getting parts for the Frame. I have been busy this summer and haven't been able to devote much time for it. Also, this just happened. I have a problem...  
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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| Does anyone have a lead on a set of factory hub caps for a 72 k20? I can find them on ebay but people are asking a ridiculous amount of money for them. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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| https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/Another-one-followed-me-home--new-pics-2nd-page-/5-2577139/ |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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Today we had the annual burn the point car parade. It was the first time I had attended. What a blast. Well over 500 cars. Oh BTW, I did add a new set of tires. I think they made the truck look much better.    Sorry I haven't been posting much in this thread. I have been working a ton and the Frame project has stalled. The 69 has been taking any spare time I have. Hopefully I can get the rear brakes done tomorrow. |
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“In my opinion, the M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” - George S. Patton
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