M1337 3d Printed Gatling Gun in Beta (Page 8 of 9)
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. Originally Posted By Emt1581: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Any reason not to use a pencil/lightweight barrel as opposed to government profile? Would save like 3 pounds just in barrel weight Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. The advertised RoF of this thing is like 550 to 650 rpm, right? So divided by 6, each barrel is only firing about 100 rounds per minute. So to reach just the round count per barrel of those videos would take at least 6 times as long. And in practice, to reach the temperature achieved in those videos, probably much longer since each barrel is getting a brief "duty cycle" pause after every round fired. I guess the real question is... how long would it take to melt an AR barrel at a sustained 100 rounds per minute? |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. Originally Posted By Emt1581: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Any reason not to use a pencil/lightweight barrel as opposed to government profile? Would save like 3 pounds just in barrel weight Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. No reason not to use any barrel type. It will require mods to the barrel support print. Round count: how many rounds to 50deg C and you are using PLA then multiply that by 6 and you now know your max round count before you have to stop and let the barrels cool or you melt the plastic supports. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: No reason not to use any barrel type. It will require mods to the barrel support print. Round count: how many rounds to 50deg F and you are using PLA then multiply that by 6 and you now know your max round count before you have to stop and let the barrels cool or you melt the plastic supports. Originally Posted By belted_guns: Originally Posted By Emt1581: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Any reason not to use a pencil/lightweight barrel as opposed to government profile? Would save like 3 pounds just in barrel weight Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. No reason not to use any barrel type. It will require mods to the barrel support print. Round count: how many rounds to 50deg F and you are using PLA then multiply that by 6 and you now know your max round count before you have to stop and let the barrels cool or you melt the plastic supports. I think you meant 50C but yeah, good point. Easy enough to experiment with a metronome and either some temperature probes or a non-contact thermometer. |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2: I think you meant 50C but yeah, good point. Easy enough to experiment with a metronome and either some temperature probes or a non-contact thermometer. Thanks. I corrected that to C. BTW, here is the link to the step and stl file for the link. @drababan M1337 improved snap link |
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I have been printing the barrel parts in high temp PAHT and then annealling them for stress. I cranked out 70rds of mixed tracer and 855 using Nopal's extended flash hider no problem with it busting. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. Originally Posted By Emt1581: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Any reason not to use a pencil/lightweight barrel as opposed to government profile? Would save like 3 pounds just in barrel weight Wouldn't those struggle with heat and increase the chance of melting more than thicker barrels? Its been a while since I saw a good barrel melting vid but Iraqveteran8888 and GarandThumb have done them IIRC. You aren't gonna shoot this thing enough to melt a .gov barrel |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Cost to build? 4th or 5th time asking. Even gave a complete kit offered for sale as a comparison. Or is this not getting an answer because no one keeps track of the build list/cost and is a print/project only those with Fuck You Money should attempt?  Thanks!  Dude, someone have you a direct link to the build kit. It will cost less than that if you source your own components. Add in the cost of filament and there's your price. |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Cost to build? 4th or 5th time asking. Even gave a complete kit offered for sale as a comparison. Or is this not getting an answer because no one keeps track of the build list/cost and is a print/project only those with Fuck You Money should attempt? Thanks! This build is not for the "follow the dots and do no research. " crowd. I think everyone who has built these ran into issues they each found solutions for by asking, and trying. You have, in this thread, way more information than we had to do a build. Take the time and read through Nopal's build, all of these pages, search the net. This is a well past $500 build. Research the laws in your state, your 3D printing capabilities, your available funds, and do it if you can. It is not a military grade gun. It is a unique, challenge and fun build. Remember, it is a 3D plastic printed gun. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: This build is not for the "follow the dots and do no research. " crowd. I think everyone who has built these ran into issues they each found solutions for by asking, and trying. You have, in this thread, way more information than we had to do a build. Take the time and read through Nopal's build, all of these pages, search the net. This is a well past $500 build. Research the laws in your state, your 3D printing capabilities, your available funds, and do it if you can. It is not a military grade gun. It is a unique, challenge and fun build. Remember, it is a 3D plastic printed gun. Originally Posted By belted_guns: Originally Posted By Emt1581: Cost to build? 4th or 5th time asking. Even gave a complete kit offered for sale as a comparison. Or is this not getting an answer because no one keeps track of the build list/cost and is a print/project only those with Fuck You Money should attempt? Thanks! This build is not for the "follow the dots and do no research. " crowd. I think everyone who has built these ran into issues they each found solutions for by asking, and trying. You have, in this thread, way more information than we had to do a build. Take the time and read through Nopal's build, all of these pages, search the net. This is a well past $500 build. Research the laws in your state, your 3D printing capabilities, your available funds, and do it if you can. It is not a military grade gun. It is a unique, challenge and fun build. Remember, it is a 3D plastic printed gun. If we're talking between $500 and that $1400....totally do-able for me. However, if I'm being honest, my biggest concern would be getting trapped in a situation where it needs significant machining, experienced welding, etc. that I would be unable to do. But boy is this a tempting build. Maybe I'll take your advice and read Nopel's readme/build docs as well as pay closer attention to the experience those here have had to see what all is involved. Thanks |
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Wait, there is someone building all the parts as a kit? Holly fatf batman. Or is it Nopal's totally way better, cool, didn't have to do it, parts that make our individual builds enjoyable? Because his few parts I bought made my build workable. And his willingness to stock a few of the expensive bearings is above and beyond. I hope you enjoy the process, the entertainment, and keep us apprised of your progress and build questions. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: Wait, there is someone building all the parts as a kit? Holly fatf batman. Or is it Nopal's totally way better, cool, didn't have to do it, parts that make our individual builds enjoyable? Because his few parts I bought made my build workable. And his willingness to stock a few of the expensive bearings is above and beyond. I hope you enjoy the process, the entertainment, and keep us apprised of your progress and build questions. Yes, see the link on the last page I posted. $1400 for everything except the 3D printed parts. But I saw a few parts some of you had custom made in metal so that isn't included from what I see. |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Yes, see the link on the last page I posted. $1400 for everything except the 3D printed parts. But I saw a few parts some of you had custom made in metal so that isn't included from what I see. Interesting kit. The Nopal parts really the only difficult or pita parts to make. All the other parts are simple, time consuming, 3D prints and all go together well. No welding. I would definitely stay away from some dude selling you all the 3D printed parts mainly because the whole point of this exercise is making something and accomplishing it. Nothing quite like getting it all done and hoping it doesn't blow up in your face, cranking off the first 6 rounds. Just. Plain. Cool. Then working through the issues and getting to the point of cranking 70-100 rounds on video. That is celebration. After that, share with friends, drink beer, enjoy, cause there is absolutely no practical purpose for this other than "I did that", and link another 100. Oh, I forgot, after all that, then it is what can I accessorize abd change? I have mine mounted on a standing tripod and now need to design some sort of M249 ammo box holder and link catcher. What you learn and achieve make it fun and drive the mods and improvements. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: Interesting kit. The Nopal parts really the only difficult or pita parts to make. All the other parts are simple, time consuming, 3D prints and all go together well. No welding. I would definitely stay away from some dude selling you all the 3D printed parts mainly because the whole point of this exercise is making something and accomplishing it. Nothing quite like getting it all done and hoping it doesn't blow up in your face, cranking off the first 6 rounds. Just. Plain. Cool. Then working through the issues and getting to the point of cranking 70-100 rounds on video. That is celebration. After that, share with friends, drink beer, enjoy, cause there is absolutely no practical purpose for this other than "I did that", and link another 100. Oh, I forgot, after all that, then it is what can I accessorize abd change? I have mine mounted on a standing tripod and now need to design some sort of M249 ammo box holder and link catcher. What you learn and achieve make it fun and drive the mods and improvements. Thanks for the insight. However, I think one of us has it backwards. You're saying beware of anyone selling the 3D parts. I thought the kit included everything EXCEPT the 3D parts. I would also think, unless serialized and sent to a dealer the 3D parts couldn't be included in the kit. No clue what part of such a gun would even be serialized. |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Thanks for the insight. However, I think one of us has it backwards. You're saying beware of anyone selling the 3D parts. I thought the kit included everything EXCEPT the 3D parts. I would also think, unless serialized and sent to a dealer the 3D parts couldn't be included in the kit. No clue what part of such a gun would even be serialized. No, you are correct. I finally read their description. Totally do the build yourself. It is not that complicated. Buy Nopals parts. They are perfect fits. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: Anyone built any accessories? I will start. 1) links with easier rim engagement 2) pic rail mount that goes where the front handle attaches. This allows me to mount my laser/light. 3) East Texas redneck tripod mount so now my 1337 is standing. Any chance of you posting pics and files? |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: Sure. Let me get up on line and I will send the step file, or, what format would you like? Originally Posted By belted_guns: Originally Posted By Drababan: Any chance of getting this file? I've been manually shaving down the offending piece. Sure. Let me get up on line and I will send the step file, or, what format would you like? I was just seeing if I could get the STL file for the links you modified. I did search all 8 pages I didn't see a link for the links. Now that doesn't generally mean anything because I can miss something directly in front of my face just ask my wife. So if it's on here my apologies if not I sure would like it. Thanks. |
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Hello All, I am new to this forum, and am looking for something which I am hoping to find. I came across Nopel's m1337 and immediately acquired 3D printers and am learning to us them. I should have learned to 3D print a long time ago, IT'S AWESOME!!! I have procured about half the hardware, the barrels and BCG's are on the way. Does anyone have the files for the PR-17 suppressor? The links don't work and I can't seem to find it anywhere. I am no stranger to building, I love building. I've built many AR's and P80's and other things. I have a small machine shop at home, though none is CNC, all manual. Does anyone have suppressor files? I would greatly appreciate them. ALSO: What is a good high temp material, and what are you using to print the hot contact parts? I'm still learning what is available, as I'm new to 3D printing. I have 2 Neptune-3's, and 3 Ender-3's, though only 1 works right now. What I really want is to design and build a gun capable of firing from ammo that is just dumped into a hopper, so the m1337 is a step in that direction for me.  Thanks for the help, Lightsycle |
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Originally Posted By lightsycle: Hello All, I am new to this forum, and am looking for something which I am hoping to find. I came across Nopel's m1337 and immediately acquired 3D printers and am learning to us them. I should have learned to 3D print a long time ago, IT'S AWESOME!!! I have procured about half the hardware, the barrels and BCG's are on the way. Does anyone have the files for the PR-17 suppressor? The links don't work and I can't seem to find it anywhere. I am no stranger to building, I love building. I've built many AR's and P80's and other things. I have a small machine shop at home, though none is CNC, all manual. Does anyone have suppressor files? I would greatly appreciate them. ALSO: What is a good high temp material, and what are you using to print the hot contact parts? I'm still learning what is available, as I'm new to 3D printing. I have 2 Neptune-3's, and 3 Ender-3's, though only 1 works right now. What I really want is to design and build a gun capable of firing from ammo that is just dumped into a hopper, so the m1337 is a step in that direction for me. Thanks for the help, Lightsycle The suppressor as far as I know never made it out of the beta phase and I don't think it's being worked on anymore. My guess was it was taken down because it was unsafe to use. Could be wrong just my 2 cents. |
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Originally Posted By Drababan: I was just seeing if I could get the STL file for the links you modified. I did search all 8 pages I didn't see a link for the links. Now that doesn't generally mean anything because I can miss something directly in front of my face just ask my wife. So if it's on here my apologies if not I sure would like it. Thanks. Sure. I saw this a couple of days ago but I need to find the data and will re post it. please be patient a bit longer. @Drababan ok, that did not take long. Here is the link. thingiverse link to rail mount for M1337 |
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This has been a frustrating project for me. The #4 bolt doesnt want to work when the action rotate forwards. But it works when the action rotates in reverse. Also been grinding and breaking gears in the crank mechanism due to flex. I think I need to print the reinforced version. |
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Originally Posted By Postal0311: This has been a frustrating project for me. The #4 bolt doesnt want to work when the action rotate forwards. But it works when the action rotates in reverse. Also been grinding and breaking gears in the crank mechanism due to flex. I think I need to print the reinforced version. @postal0311 Hi. Some thoughts. 1) does the #4 bolt slide easily within the carrier assembly and individually into the barrel?. This issue may be related to your second issue. 2) the design is solid. If you are grinding gears and having flex, then check: A) are you installing the delinker with regard to the correct tooth placement? B) does the delinker freely spin when not installed? C) does the delinker freely rotate when installed and operated as part of the whole hand cranked process) My totally off the cuff response is likely you installed the delinker without correct timing. But your answers above may help narrow things down. BTW I have broken more than one spindle getting my issues resolved. |
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Thanks. It is not the delinker, it is the #4 striker. With the #4 striker installed, the entire gun action works fine in cranked in reverse. Cranked forwards, the entire gun locks up. With the #4 striker removed, the gun action works fine in forward or reverse. The gun feeds and ejects just fine. |
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Originally Posted By Postal0311: Thanks. It is not the delinker, it is the #4 striker. With the #4 striker installed, the entire gun action works fine in cranked in reverse. Cranked forwards, the entire gun locks up. With the #4 striker removed, the gun action works fine in forward or reverse. The gun feeds and ejects just fine. @postal0311 What if you move the #4 striker to another slot. Perhaps swap #4 and #1 and see if you get the same results. Question, if you remove the #4 striker, does everything work as advertised? Also, there is a thin slot section in the receiver that finally broke. I think one or more of my bolt carriers was grabbing at that point. |
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Like I said, everything works fine with the #4 striker removed. I made a new bolt carrier for #4 because I saw some damage to the slot the striker bearing pin slides in. I pulled the barrel assembly out of the receiver and was very surprised to feel and see no appreciable damage or wear to the slots in the receiver. I installed just the new #4 bolt carrier group in the gun, and it worked fine forwards, and locked the gun up in reverse. Removing the bcg, it has damage in the same spot at the old one, but much worse. I'll have to snap a photo. The 5 other bolts do not have this issue. Edit, fixed a type-o. |
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| Hey all I could use some help. I bought the striker springs that Nopel had linked in the directions. But I cannot get them to cycle around, like not even close. As a test I put in very weak springs and the bolts cycle fine, through the break-in process. When I switch back to the original springs it is a hard stop I've tried rocking them for a hundred or more cranks they will not budge, if I exerted the force necessary to get it to cycle it would most definitely break something. Has someone used alternate springs with positive results? Or what the hell am I doing wrong? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Drababan: Hey all I could use some help. I bought the striker springs that Nopel had linked in the directions. But I cannot get them to cycle around, like not even close. As a test I put in very weak springs and the bolts cycle fine, through the break-in process. When I switch back to the original springs it is a hard stop I've tried rocking them for a hundred or more cranks they will not budge, if I exerted the force necessary to get it to cycle it would most definitely break something. Has someone used alternate springs with positive results? Or what the hell am I doing wrong? Thanks Are you using Nopal's metal replaceable cam section? I also don't remember nopal selecting springs. The springs i recommended on this thread work great but they are very stiff and you really can not freely compress them with your fingers. |
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Originally Posted By belted_guns: Are you using Nopal's metal replaceable cam section? I also don't remember nopal selecting springs. The springs i recommended on this thread work great but they are very stiff and you really can not freely compress them with your fingers. Thank you ended up switching springs, Nopel did have springs that linked to compression springs from ebay, they're ridiculously stiff. |
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Originally Posted By Drababan: Thank you ended up switching springs, Nopel did have springs that linked to compression springs from ebay, they're ridiculously stiff. Originally Posted By Drababan: Originally Posted By belted_guns: Are you using Nopal's metal replaceable cam section? I also don't remember nopal selecting springs. The springs i recommended on this thread work great but they are very stiff and you really can not freely compress them with your fingers. Thank you ended up switching springs, Nopel did have springs that linked to compression springs from ebay, they're ridiculously stiff. Great. Getting it to work, after the print, tends to be a process. Enjoy. |
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Originally Posted By mPisi: When you're spending money too slowly  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fGGnXjtSYwDude, I thought I was done with the crank. I have been working on a tripod mount feed for the ammo box so I can move around and still be able to feed without breaking links. |
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That needs some sort of arm brace to go along with the handle for the left hand. Maybe a type of 'arm brace' like current AR pistols use, or something simple to brace the arm against to keep the wobbling to a minimum. Maybe some sort of protrusion or perhaps something "U" shaped to drop your forearm into. I'm surprised that none have been developed considering how difficult it appears to be able to keep on target. I still want to print one.... suppressed..... 300 BO suppressed would be wild. |
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