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Posted: 1/16/2021 6:30:44 PM EDT
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AFAIK there weren't any metallurgy issues with the M1 Carbine. Just be aware of mechanical wear and have fun. =)
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What are the markings on it. It could be any number of things from USGI to an Iver Johnson to a Universal manufacture
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Send your ammo to me that you plan on test firing M1 30 carbine with so I can make sure that is safe to use first
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Check the bore and check condition , but unless it was severely abused it should be good to go
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Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered.
I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. |
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Quoted: Send your ammo to me that you plan on test firing M1 30 carbine with so I can make sure that is safe to use first View Quote USGI Lake City works well. Attached File |
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Quoted: Quoted: Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered. I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. U R a big meanie. Especially when a lot of the archives went bye bye recently...................... |
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Quoted: Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered. I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. View Quote This could have waited till page 2 |
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The only m1 carbines with metallurgy concerns were some of the Universal's (which was a post war commercial manufacturer) which had low grade cast receivers.
Edit: national ordinance also had low grade cast receivers on se of their stuff too. Forgot about it until someone else mentioned it. Can it, maybe get a spring set from wolff. Otherwise shoot it, they are very nice guns (OP, excuse arfcom General Discussion's rudeness. If you want to know more or have any other questions, under the Armory section there are subforums for M1s (carbines, garands, M1As together) or C&R firearms in general. Those move slower but you will get much more polite answers) |
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Quoted: The only m1 carbines with metallurgy concerns were some of the Universal's (which was a post war commercial manufacturer) which had low grade cast receivers. Can it, maybe get a spring set from wolff. Otherwise shoot it, they are very nice guns (OP, excuse arfcom General Discussion's rudeness. If you want to know more or have any other questions, under the Armory section there are subforums for M1s (carbines, garands, M1As together) or C&R firearms in general. Those move slower but you will get much more polite answers) View Quote And another one that can't wait for page 2 Also on top of it a thrteener |
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Serious answer -
Look in the bore with a bright light to insure it's not blocked. This sometimes happens with guns that have been stored, especially in closets, under the bed, and so on. Odds are high that the gun is okay. I would test fire the rifle. I would also wear good eye protection. Otherwise, take it to a reputable gun shop, preferably with a gunsmith for a quick checkout. Ignore the page 2 thing. That should be reserved for stupid questions and goofing around, not serious topics. That includes in GD. Autocorrect misspelling fixed. Again. |
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Need more information. What make is the Carbine, that will help alot
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I did do research on it doesnt make me a expert on it just a question what would be a better place to ask then here just want to kbow possibly specific things to look for with this firearm did you ever here of conversation and asking questions with diffrent opinions to get some more knowledge isn't it all a learning experience and I'm als fairly new to firearms was just looking for some opinions
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It says national ord did some research i know there were alot .are by many diffrent companies
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Quoted: Hello all I inherited an old m1 30 carbine that was my late grandpas its old how can I tell if it is safe to fire or not have no idea when it last has been fired or not and not very familiar with this firearm View Quote The only realistic answer is to have it checked by a qualified gunsmith. There are several possible issues with M1 carbines that aren’t apparent under visual inspection. Not necessarily all safety issues but certainly can result in functional problems. There are plenty of anecdotes about GI bring-backs but in actuality, M1 carbines were shipped by the tens of thousands overseas, beat to crap, and re-imported. |
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Quoted: I did do research on it doesnt make me a expert on it just a question what would be a better place to ask then here just want to kbow possibly specific things to look for with this firearm did you ever here of conversation and asking questions with diffrent opinions to get some more knowledge isn't it all a learning experience and I'm als fairly new to firearms was just looking for some opinions View Quote |
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Quoted: Serious answer - Look in the bore with a bright light to insure it's not blocked. This sometimes happens with guns that have been stores, especially in closets, under the bed, and so on. Odds are high that the gun is okay. I would test fire the rifle. I would also wear good eye protection. Otherwise, take it to a reputable gun shop, preferably with a gunsmith for a quick checkout. Ignore the page 2 thing. That should be reserved for stupid questions and goofing around, not serious topics. That includes in GD. View Quote Christ Yea Mr. lawyer I listened to this guy and I'm now blind |
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Quoted: It says national ord did some research i know there were alot .are by many diffrent companies View Quote Recommend you get it checked out. National Ordnance was a post WWII company that built M1 carbines using their receivers and surplus military parts. They don't have a good reputation. National Ordnance carbines |
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No ill keep it its one of the few things I have of memory of my GPA
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Ok thanks for some actual good info its by natl ord if that makes a diffrence
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Quoted: Recommend you get it checked out. National Ordnance was a post WWII company that built M1 carbines using their receivers and surplus military parts. They don't have a good reputation. National Ordnance carbines View Quote The receiver casting recesses for the bolt lugs weren’t always right. Sometimes only 1 lug on the bolt made contact with the receiver. Both sides were supposed to be in contact If only 1 is making contact, all of the pressure is put on one side which may cause it to fail eventually |
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Quoted: Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered. I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. View Quote Quoted: So what. If you didn't have something useful to add to the conversation why bother posting anything at all instead of a snide remark. View Quote Ummmm...... |
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Sorry I meant to say that to someone else my apologies I just got on here today still learning the fourm thanks for the info I appreciate it
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I just realized I was hitting the wrong reply button lol I'm not tech savy
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Pleeeeease post pics
Eta: PM pics to me and I'll post them for you. |
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Quoted: Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered. I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. View Quote Or instead of scolding a new member you might just offer some useful advice. Maybe OP would just like to converse with people on a board he's just joined instead of relying on copypasta. Heaven forbid someone should join a gun board to talk about guns. OP, first of all you should give some details on the markings. That can tell us a lot and maybe provide better answers. One thing you can get off the net are instructions for taking it apart and cleaning it, a basic GI field stripping. Check the bore for damage, look for cracks, missing parts, etc. Replacing springs is usually a good idea. The value on M1 carbines has increased, with GI models usually bringing more than commercial models. Some commercial models are better than others. |
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Thanks for the the info its made by natl ord numbers on are 1144 thats all I see on it
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Original Poster (OP)
When you have time go here and learn the in's & out's of this place https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/Website-Help-Files/169/ https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/?fg=166 |
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OP, don't get discouraged by the a**holes on GD.
Try here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Curios-andamp-Relics/14/ When you do make sure you have all the info on markings. Pics would help. |
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Quoted: OP, don't get discouraged by the a**holes on GD. Try here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Curios-andamp-Relics/14/ When you do make sure you have all the info on markings. Pics would help. View Quote OK |
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Quoted: Ok thanks how would I check that View Quote Not to be a dickhead--really--but if you aren't "technically inclined" you probably shouldn't be the one doing the inspecting. And more to the point--how the bolt lugs are distributing the forces created by the cartridge is a long-term wear issue--you won't break the bolt after a single range-session--it just won't last 50 years. Step one is explore the site someone linked to--and learn how to field strip it--break that carbine down to it's component pieces. Google "field strip m1 carbine". https://gunstreamer.com/watch/how-to-field-strip-the-m1-carbine-hd-video_pMAVaoXlWPBCUj9.html Clean the rifle well, scrub it down with Hoppes and remove carbon and gunk. Get some good light on the receiver and inspect for burrs and cracks in the bearing surfaces and the bolt recesses--and I'd say you should grease the bolt lugs and races and the recoil spring. That is probably overkill. The carbine is apparently supposed to run on oil, but I like to lube the same as the Garand. I could be wrong. Then hit the range. Proceed carefully and inspect your brass. Build confidence--and have fun. If you find yourself shooting it a lot--then get some Dykem layout fluid and put some on the bolt lugs and cycle the action enough to wear off the blue. If one bolt shows no wear, then sooner or later your bolt will fail. Chances are good that the wear will be distributed at least somewhat. https://www.mscdirect.com/industrialtools/dykem-layout-fluid.html The Korean ammo is pretty good--but the price has pretty much doubled in the ammo panic. SG Ammo... It's nice that you've got something to remember your granddad by. |
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Quoted: Ever hear of a thing called the internet? Do a search on the .30 Carbine. Most of your questions will be answered. I don't mean to sound mean but why can't people do their research. You have the world's biggest library at your fingertips. View Quote |
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Clean it, inspect it for any obvious issues or bore obstructions. If none, load a single round, hold it out away from yourself, point down range and squeeze the trigger. Better yet, put it in a bench rest vise with a string tied to the trigger and step back a ways.
If it goes bang and you still have your fingers, vision, and aren't bleeding, you're probably good to go. Wear eye and ear protection, and heavy gloves if you must. After you fire the first round, inspect the gun again for any issues. Then repeat the process with 2 rounds to see it it cycles the 2nd round. Inspect again. After that, load a mag, see if it runs through the mag w/o any issues. Be sure to test the safety as well to ensure it works. If you're not comfortable with all that, take it to a competent gunsmith to look it over. I've got one from 1943, had another from 1941, as well as an Iver Johnson back in the day. The 41' and 43' were GI made, the Johnson was a post WW2 gun. No problems with any of them, but some Johnson's had issues with bad bolts and receivers not matching up properly if I'm not mistaken. Good luck. |
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