I want to lift a jk 2-3" and maintain the stock ride. Can it be done?

Edit to add-

I have a 2.5" teraflex lift kit that someone removed for 4.5" lift. My plan is to install,

2.5" teraflex lift springs with bump stops $80

New Rubicon express adjustable front track bar- $80

Deciding between bilstein 5100 or fox 2.0 shocks

Extended sway bar links- $40

Rear track bar relocation bracket - need to buy $50-100

Rancho front lower control arm drop bracket - need to buy $140

Brake line brackets and exhaust spacer. $50-75

Edit -heres a Pic of my collected stuff so far.

Teraflex 2.5" lift springs
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Teraflex bump stop extensions
Teraflex extended  sway bar links front and rear
Rubicon express adjustable front track bar
Teraflex 1" front and .75" rear spacers (in case it needs leveling out)
2" hub centric spacers

I have $460 in it total so far. I still need brake line brackets,  exhaust spacers, and a rear track bar relocation bracket. That will be another $150-200 or  so. I may also go ahead and put some rancho front control arm drop brackets on for another $140.

I was going to install it myself because I have access to a lift, but a local shop that does alot of lifts said they would do it for $280 with alignment. I'm leaning towards letting them do it.  I may try to keep it under $1k. That's not too bad.

Ye$$$$

Considering the center of gravity is raised, I highly doubt it.

It can ride better than stock if you are willing to pay for it.

I put a 2.5" lift on my 2 dr JK and I think it seemed the same.

How much money ya got?

Can your shop suspend the laws of physics?  If so, yes.

Yep. Costs money. If you go cheap you’re asking for death wobbles and crappy ride quality. Ask me how I know.

2" is easy.  Spacers suck.  Get new springs.

This.

I would say yes, for sure.  I had a 2013 wrangler unlimited that I had lifted 2.5 inches.  The lift was a combo of Old Man Emu shocks and springs, control arms by Rokmen, JKS quick disconnets, and a JKS stabilizer bar on front, not sure what was used on the rear.  With stock tires, it handled like the stock jeep.  This was a quality lift though - the materials were about $2k, and installation was close to $1500.  So not a budget lift, but not high end either.  
The biggest thing about lifting jeeps is that you generally then switch to a taller and wider tire.  That is really what changes the handling characteristics on a good lift.  Taller tires have more sidewall, which compresses when you turn.  Wider tires send more road signal to the steering wheel as well.  On my jeep, I ran standard rubicon 31.8 inch mud terrains in the warm months, handled pretty much like stock.  In the winter, I ran 33 inch all terrains that were wider in addition to taller.  The jeep wanted to follow the road a bit more with this setup, but steering response and overall handling was still good.
Bottom line, if you go with a good lift, a lifted jeep will still handle well.  Not sure what you'll get if you lift and jump to 35 inch tires, which is pretty common.  At that point, I would fully expect the ride quality and braking performance to feel a bit less than stock.  But you'll have good off road capability if that means anything.
Edit to add - even with a high end lift, the taller / wider tires change handling characteristics.  Wider tires send a little more resistance to the steering wheel when turning at low speeds - ie parking lots.  It's not a big deal, but it's different.  A tire / wheel combo that weighs more than stock changes braking performance too.  
Bottom line, if you are into the Jeep thing, you basically need a lift.  The change in handling characteristics isn't that significant over the stock ride.  Personally, I would avoid the cheap route of spacer pucks - while it gets the lift, it limits articulation.  It's basically the all show, no go way to get bigger tires.  Plenty do it, but it is less than ideal.  If you upgrade to quality aftermarket control arms, coil springs, and shocks; your jeep will carry more weight better; some aspects of ride quality and handling will be stable, your suspension will last longer than the rubber bushing factory setup (provided you lube the joints in your control arms as specified by the manufacturer), and your off road capability is much improved.  Plus it looks a lot better.

If you just do spacers, no.

If you go to all new suspension, yes.

Also, depends on what you like in how it rides. Some suspensions will be soft and squishy and will make imperfections in the road feel like nothing, but will have more body roll and nose dive. Other prefer a stiffer, more "planted" ride that reduces body roll and nose dive but imperfections in the road will feel sharper. This can be impacted by wheel/tire selection and setup as well.

Just test drove my buddies who did EVO Stage 4 kit, i liked it a lot

King

Fox

There is no substitute for quality.

I'm pretty happy with my setup. 4.5" Rock Krawler lift with all control arms and adjustable Falcon shocks on 37's. I regularly drive 80+ on the highway and feel completely planted. The only aspect where stock might ride better is that the hydro assist can feel a bit twitchy if you're not used to it.

Yes.  The MOPAR 2" kit was designed by Teraflex.  If you're into jeeping at all you have heard of Teraflex.  They are a premier maker of aftermarket gear.  The 2" lift has an xlnt ride quality, as good or better than stock.  Very supple.  I have been in many lifted jeeps and when the ride was over I felt I had donated a kidney or two.

DO NOT use the cam bolts supplied in the kit.  Instead, spend the $250 xtra or so and get adjustable front control arms.  Once again, Teraflex is your friend - Alpine control arms.  Also, get the adjustable track bar to re-center your front axle.  Finally, the brake line relocation kit is a must.  Not expensive but keeps your front brake lines from rubbing on the wheels.  The entire thing is going to set you back $2500-ish + labor.

Quality isn't cheap.

Edit: this kit uses Fox shocks, they are xlnt.  The kit is advertised as 2", but nets 2.5" in rear and about 3" in front.  Will not void factory warranty if that matters to you.

Depends on how much you want to spend and what else you plan to put on it, like new bumpers and a winch.  A stock JK bumper weighs around 30lbs.  Want to see what another 150lbs will do out front?  Get someone to stand on your bumper and watch the front drop.

The higher the lift, the more geometry you need to correct...and lift heights often assume heavier bumpers, perhaps a winch, and a heavier spare...so without that, you might find a lift gives you la lot more than its advertised height.

I probably have 5K into wheels, tires, and a lift you can't even notice.  But she does drive nicely.  Perhaps not stock, but still pretty refined.

Yes! Lifted my 99 Cherokee 6.5 inches and it rode just as shitty as it did when it left the Willys plant.

Yes, as others have said it just costs money. Anyone saying no has only been around junk.

A good long arm kit with properly tuned coilovers will actually improve ride quality.

My old tj had 2"procomp springs and ome shocks and it floated over bumps.  Old man emu rules for a great ride in my opinion.

Edit: double tap

Edit: triple tap

This. And it’s worth it IMO.

Do you have time to talk to me about your lord and savior, Teraflex?

Look at AEV kits. They use brackets to maintain the stock geometry versus longer arms in the stock mounts.

Call Accutune Off Road in Florida. Tell them what you want. Won’t be cheap but they know their shit.

All my Fox gear on my 4Runner will be sent to a local shop they (Accutune) recommend using their valving and shim stacks.

I have a 2010 Rubicon Unlimited with a Hemi, aluminum roof rack, aluminum armor underneath, a 20gal auxiliary fuel tank, winch, etc.

I have a 4.5” AEV lift and run 37s.

The ride and handling are better than stock with stock Rubicon wheels and tires.

YES!  I just built a 2005 LJ.  Curry 4" short arm lift, Super Swamper BIASED ply tires and I can run 70mph and take my hands off the steering wheel.  Rides better than stock...after about 5 miles and the tires are warmed up!  LOL Attached File

My old XJ rode great with a 4.5" lift on 33s and 4.88s. Honestly it wasnt till I swapped an 8.8 in the rear and the rear end was a lot less comfortable. Unfortunately I got a new truck and sold it before I could relocate the shackles to mitigate the shock. For a coil sprung wrangler, I'm sure it would be just as easy.

@JPK - I'm assuming that's the Genright fuel tank? How do you like it and do you feel it's worth it? That mod has been on my radar for a while now but so few have it it's hard to get a good opinion about it.

No, it’s a Long Ranger tank made in Australia that I imported through ARB. I don’t know if they are available in the US without the hassle and wait iof importuning one.

Worth the hassle and $s though!

With an around town and cross country average of 13mpg the extra ~20gals really helps.

Possible. But as the the GIF attached...........

Simple and cheapest solution is a spacer lift or body lift. COG will change but “ride” will stay the same.

Yes, you can. Don't skimp on parts and buy quality. I would recommend Currie adjustable front lowers instead of brackets and I would go Fox on the shocks. I have Bilstein's and while they are great they are firm, very firm.

Keep your air pressure in your tires at 24-26 pounds for 35 inch tires.

Do jeeps have stock ride quality?

The johnny joints in the curry arms are going to ride harder than the stock joints with brackets.  I've had both of those shocks and believe it or not the fox shocks are more stiff and ride harder.   Both great but if his goal is plush, brackets and OME shocks are the way to go.  They are soft compared to those two.

Yes, but you give up ground clearance and with adjustable lowers you can dial in better caster. I absolutely agree with OME shocks, but he asked about 2 others.

They sell a lift through Mopar performance parts that is supposed to maintain a decent ride and alignment

Yes, the key is Long arm suspension KIT with rubber bushings instead of JJ, relocation bracketry (vs short arm) to maintain OEM geometry with good shocks like Fox.

If want just 2" then just do a budget boost with pucks and OME or Bilstein 4600 shocks, 5100 are way harsher than factory.   I lifted a WJ with a 4" lift, it was a PITA to get it right.    If I were to do it over I would have just stayed with 2" pucks and OME or Bilstein 4600 and just be done and enjoy it.

Yes.  The lift will be 2-2.5 inches and cost about $2k to $3k.  Pick either OME or AEV.

Ride quality and handling "performance" can be two different things in the case of a Jeep, OP.  I'm taking that you don't want a buckboard rough ride due to a lift.  With the right components, smooth, pleasant ride quality can be maintained...sometimes even improved...with a lift.  Cornering stability due to a higher CG will of course be affected.

It's a Jeep.  If you wanted slot-car handling, I'm guessing you would have purchased a Porsche.

Why are you lifting? Mall crawling, mud riding, rock crawling, trail riding...?

My lifted LJ handles like a slot car.

Literally. Muddy clay hill with ruts...slid right down with the ruts keeping me on the trail.

I think that you will be fine with your plan.

I installed a MetalCloak 2.5” True Dual Rate system on my 2015 JKU. In my opinion it rides and handles better than stock. Brake dive and body roll in turns has been reduced to practically nothing. Not that it is a sport car, but I corners way better than stock. It rides comfortably and handles well up the 90mph that I have had it.

Yes
Use OME

That was my experience.  Small lift, awesome shocks.

Factory suspensions, in general, leave a lot to be desired.

absolutely true about the clearance and brackets.  I'm assuming he isn't planning on rock crawling with a 2.5 inch lift and since he's interested in ride quality.  It would be smart for OP to state his goals.  Sorry if I missed it.