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Posted: 5/23/2020 8:35:54 PM EDT
[#1]
 My 01 has been a great truck with very few problems. Third gear synchro is the only issue I have. I put about 4k miles on it last year. Mostly a toy hauler. Have you checked for codes yet? Bad ground? I know they have ground issues, at that age. |
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Posted: 5/23/2020 8:43:55 PM EDT
[#2]
Yeah... no codes, other then the one I always get for the fuel heater.
I clean the cables and they look good. If it's something intermittent somewhere else on the engine or body, that'll be harder to figure out, but I can put temp grounds on everything just to see. There wasn't any kind of warning on this one. It seems like one in four times I use it, it gives me issues. |
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Posted: 5/23/2020 9:10:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Definitely check your grounds. Get a service manual. Some websites have them for free and trace them all. Especially to the PCM. Does your dash go completely dead?
My clutch switch was hit or kiss. I pulled and rewired to a small button on the side of the dash up next to the steering column. Some it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. The design is plain stupid. |
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Posted: 5/23/2020 9:46:04 PM EDT
[#4]
5 speed? Pull start it to get it home. Or go Mad Max and jumper cable to the starter. Solenoid on the fender like old stuff? (don't know anything newer than 1980) jump across it.
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Posted: 5/23/2020 10:07:45 PM EDT
[#5]
When I turn all the way over to start, there does not seem to be a power draw, like if the starter or solilnoid was shit. Nothing. If the door is still open, the dome light and door ajar alert are both going and uninterrupted.
I've never had problems with the clutch switch before, but, it's a Dodge. |
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Posted: 5/23/2020 10:36:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Can you compression start it? If it starts then you know it’s gotta be the starter, or a ground. I had an 01 a few years back. You could always sell it, people pay stupid money for 20 year old dodge diesels. I got $15k for mine with 225k on the Odo.
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Posted: 5/23/2020 10:37:42 PM EDT
[#7]
a 21 year old truck, it is time for things to break.
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Posted: 5/23/2020 10:44:44 PM EDT
[#8]
This thing weighs almost 9000 pounds. I'm not push starting it!
But, I decided to go ahead and turn into a human pretzel and crawl up under the dash. I jumpered the clutch switch and it's firing up just fine again. Yay Dodge! |
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Posted: 5/24/2020 12:22:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Now just cut the wires and butt-connect them together so you don’t have to worry about it again. It doesn’t sound like you drive it far enough to use cruise, so that won’t be a problem.
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Posted: 5/24/2020 1:13:42 PM EDT
[#10]
There is a fuse for the starter relay under the hood. 7amp. If that fuse is blown you will need a new starter soon.
Genos Garge sells starter solenoid rebuild kits for 19 bucks. XDP sells a nice gear reduction starter for around 300. It will sling the crap outta that diesel. |
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Posted: 5/24/2020 5:36:34 PM EDT
[#11]
Is there by any chance a neutral start switch on the trans cover ? That being the last component you were in might be worth looking at. I have no idea if there is one, but chances are there to take a look.
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Posted: 5/24/2020 6:02:11 PM EDT
[#12]
My clutch safety switch crapped out on my old Duramax and left me stranded...........when I was desperate to get home because of a fire!
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Posted: 5/25/2020 12:31:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there by any chance a neutral start switch on the trans cover ? That being the last component you were in might be worth looking at. I have no idea if there is one, but chances are there to take a look. Thats what the clutch switch does in a manual transmission. If you don't have the pedal pushed in (and an operational switch on it that closes), it kills the starter circuit. |
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Posted: 5/28/2020 4:30:46 AM EDT
[#14]
To bad you are having problems. I've got 2 second Gen Rams, 2,000 and 2,001. The 2,000 has 180,000 miles and consider it to be like new. The 2001 has 350,000 miles and it's still the truck we drive the most.
Little things go wrong, I just picked up a hydrolic clutch for the 2,000 today. I just keep on top of it and when something gos wrong I try to fix it better than stock rather than jury rigging it. |
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Posted: 5/30/2020 12:49:51 PM EDT
[#15]
I owned a 2000 and an '01 Cummins.
I am honestly amazed that any of those things are still running at all. Those were the most unreliable troublesome trucks I've ever owned. |
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Posted: 6/6/2020 11:41:59 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: the fucking Dodge it's in is a piece of shit. I've a 99 Cummins with a 5speed and 4x4. Every time I turn around, this thing gives me another issue. I'm lucky if I put 1000 miles a year on it. Of course, it's when I'm moving a load of two man rocks for the bulkhead it decides to give me problems. Today, the shifter jumped out of the forks, and I had to tear down into it just to get out of the quary. Now, I'm home, and parked, but when I go to restart, it's a no crank situation. I don't know what it is this time. I replaced the ignition switch on the column last year, the batteries are good, the fuses are good, and it seems like it has power everywhere. Just when I turn the key to the last position, no crank. I've not gotten under the dash yet to see if the clutch switch is out of whack, but I guess it could be, and I'll look there next. Starter/solinoid is less than 3000 miles old. Anyone got any other ideas before I let this one rust away? Get yourself over to the Turbodiesel Register Forum, here. It's a semi-open forum. That means that people that subscribe to the $35 per year quarterly print magazine get preference when it comes to posting and search. But anybody can read. I've been a subscriber since 1996, and a forum member since they started their Internet presence in about 2001. The 35 bucks each year has saved me 100 times that in diagnostics with my 1996. But generally, ground issues can cause what you're describing. Next in line would be corrosion on the positive connections and cables. Acid drips and mist from flooded cell batteries cause all kinds of mayhem, especially when some critical electric stuff is under one of the battery mounts. Having learned that (from the TDR), I never again used a flooded cell battery. Wincing at the expense, I bought a matched set of non-optima AGM batteries ever after. (Yeah, I used Optima batteries BEFORE they moved manufacturing to Mexico.) Seriously, go have a look at the TDR website. It costs nothing to check it out. |
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Posted: 6/7/2020 2:36:26 PM EDT
[#17]
No crank is easy.
Get a test light. Does the relay have power? Does the starter have power? Is the battery cable tight. Does the relay work? If not, trace it back to what’s broke. No start is more expensive. |
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Posted: 6/9/2020 10:27:41 AM EDT
[#18]
Oh boy.
I just picked up a 1999 Cummins 2500. Now I get to read horror stories. LOL. Glad you got it sorted. |
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Posted: 6/9/2020 10:28:38 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you compression start it? If it starts then you know it's gotta be the starter, or a ground. I had an 01 a few years back. You could always sell it, people pay stupid money for 20 year old dodge diesels. I got $15k for mine with 225k on the Odo. Just got one with 237k for 7k out the door. The dealership didn't know what they had. Its interior and paint is rough but I put some money into it and could easily get what you got for yours. |
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Posted: 6/10/2020 8:36:52 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just got one with 237k for 7k out the door. The dealership didn't know what they had. Its interior and paint is rough but I put some money into it and could easily get what you got for yours. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Can you compression start it? If it starts then you know it's gotta be the starter, or a ground. I had an 01 a few years back. You could always sell it, people pay stupid money for 20 year old dodge diesels. I got $15k for mine with 225k on the Odo. Just got one with 237k for 7k out the door. The dealership didn't know what they had. Its interior and paint is rough but I put some money into it and could easily get what you got for yours. Dealer probably paid $500-$1K trade for it. I'd say they they knew what they had. I traded my last 24v off in '05. It was a 2000 Laramie 4X4 with 140K miles. They gave me $5K for it. I would have given it away at that point. |
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Posted: 6/10/2020 9:45:54 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dealer probably paid $500-$1K trade for it. I'd say they they knew what they had. I traded my last 24v off in '05. It was a 2000 Laramie 4X4 with 140K miles. They gave me $5K for it. I would have given it away at that point. Huh. Only 5k? I traded my last one off around 07 and got 7 or 8 I think. Wasn't hauling anything and needed a car at the time. Wish I had kept it. |
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Posted: 6/10/2020 10:45:39 AM EDT
[#22]
Time to find a 12v Cummins and do a motor swap.
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Posted: 6/10/2020 4:00:09 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Huh. Only 5k? I traded my last one off around 07 and got 7 or 8 I think. Wasn't hauling anything and needed a car at the time. Wish I had kept it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Dealer probably paid $500-$1K trade for it. I'd say they they knew what they had. I traded my last 24v off in '05. It was a 2000 Laramie 4X4 with 140K miles. They gave me $5K for it. I would have given it away at that point. Huh. Only 5k? I traded my last one off around 07 and got 7 or 8 I think. Wasn't hauling anything and needed a car at the time. Wish I had kept it. Yeah that was back in the early days of the VP44 injector pump and ULSD fuel. That truck broke down at least once a week. I had two, a 2000 and an '01, both purchased brand new and I had to buy a Chevy with the 6.0 gasoline so I'd have something reliable enough to leave the county. I also had two 7.3 Powerstrokes at the time and they were plagued with fuel leaks from the ULSD eating the hoses/seals/o-rings. |
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