| I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? |
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!
-Benjamin Franklin
-Benjamin Franklin
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Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? I would, at minimum, go with the 500. A 250 or 300 is going to struggle to keep up with highway speeds. As long as you feel confident about your riding ability and your ability to use good judgement, you can start at medium CC’s. I wouldn’t recommend running out to buy a 600/1000cc sport bike as a first bike, but on the other end of the scale, low CC bikes are gutless and generally terrible to ride. Look for something with a parallel twin engine if you want a bike to learn on. They make “enough” power to not quickly detest the bike, but you won’t accidentally give it a throttle blip and loop it backwards. Something like a Honda CBR 500, Rebel 500, Kawasaki Eliminator (451cc), Yamaha R7 or MT-07, Kawasaki Z400, etc. would be a great bike to learn on. My first “real” bike was the FTR 1200, a big liquid cooled v-twin that’ll pull most sport bikes and any car on a 1/4 mile run (but not at higher speeds), and it’s been fine because it had a very linear and predictable power curve. It has street manners at lower RPM’s and it’s an unhinged psychopath if you rev it out to the 9,000 RPM redline, but it never surprises you. Most single-cylinders are gutless, and most inline-4’s are extremely twitchy, but the parallel twins just put down acceptable, predictable medium grade power. |
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Originally Posted By chase45: Maybe 20. 30 tops. I was in the turn. Leaning. Cleared it. Then I dont know. I leaned it decently. Maybe I didn't pick the speed up fast enough from keeping from falling over due to the lean angle. I could have hit some silt or something too. Everything was fine until it wasn't lol. Just remember seeing sparks flying and not being able to believe I put it down as I was sliding They look decent really. The ring finger is the worst from that. Def ground into a bit lol. Looks like someone took a dremel with a grinding wheel to it I was wearing pants and a tshirt. Gloves and the helmet. There is some lights scrapes on the left side of the helmet. My head never hurt. You'll never catch me without the helmet. Also more gear. Im going to do some reflecting on the whole thing as I dive deeper into it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2725_jpg-3807856.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2727_jpg-3807857.JPG Here's to a speedy recovery. Also, thanks for posting about gloves. My current ones survived a wipe, but just developed a hole on the thumb. I just ordered a new pair. See if they get here before my trip on Friday. |
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Originally Posted By HammerHammer: I would, at minimum, go with the 500. A 250 or 300 is going to struggle to keep up with highway speeds. As long as you feel confident about your riding ability and your ability to use good judgement, you can start at medium CC's. I wouldn't recommend running out to buy a 600/1000cc sport bike as a first bike, but on the other end of the scale, low CC bikes are gutless and generally terrible to ride. Look for something with a parallel twin engine if you want a bike to learn on. They make "enough" power to not quickly detest the bike, but you won't accidentally give it a throttle blip and loop it backwards. Something like a Honda CBR 500, Rebel 500, Kawasaki Eliminator (451cc), Yamaha R7 or MT-07, Kawasaki Z400, etc. would be a great bike to learn on. Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? I would, at minimum, go with the 500. A 250 or 300 is going to struggle to keep up with highway speeds. As long as you feel confident about your riding ability and your ability to use good judgement, you can start at medium CC's. I wouldn't recommend running out to buy a 600/1000cc sport bike as a first bike, but on the other end of the scale, low CC bikes are gutless and generally terrible to ride. Look for something with a parallel twin engine if you want a bike to learn on. They make "enough" power to not quickly detest the bike, but you won't accidentally give it a throttle blip and loop it backwards. Something like a Honda CBR 500, Rebel 500, Kawasaki Eliminator (451cc), Yamaha R7 or MT-07, Kawasaki Z400, etc. would be a great bike to learn on. I'm trying to schedule a MSC before the weather turns, and go from there. |
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!
-Benjamin Franklin
-Benjamin Franklin
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Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? I started on a CRF300L this spring. Dual sport with the same motor, I quickly got bored of it on roads. Didn't care for having little acceleration power when at highway speeds. I think most people would be fine on the Rebel 500. I already moved onto a CRF450, which is an entirely different beast, but still easily manageable on roads. The 300 is pretty smooth up to ~70 with the gearing/sprockets/windscreen on the Rally dual sport. 75mph wasnt too bad with the +1 front sprocket the previous owner had on. It just has no power to accurate at those speeds. The 450RL starts getting to be a bit much above 60. |
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Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: Thank you, that's really great info. When I get comfortable with it I would be commuting to work on the freeway, that's why I was thinking the 500 would be where I want to start. But I'm not some speed demon planning on weaving through traffic. I am older and not totally stupid, and was thinking even the Rebel 1100 wouldn't out of the question. I'm trying to schedule a MSC before the weather turns, and go from there. Glad you're going to take the class! Totally worth the time and effort. The mental strategies for reducing risk are good. The insurance discount is a nice bonus. A mid-size bike, i.e., 500cc is an excellent size. Back in the day, a BSA 500 was considered a big bike. Powerful enough to go as fast as you want and no problem keeping up with traffic. People put the smaller bikes down, but a Russian friend of mine (now US citizen), an experienced rider, sometimes rode a Kawasaki 250 for ages on rides with us. Sometimes even with his young son on as a passenger, and he always kept up with us guys on liter bikes. True, he could not accelerate instantly like we could, but he rode the piss out of that bike and was pretty much right there with us in spirited riding through the mountains of NH. A smaller displacement bike is lighter and incredibly agile. So, smaller displacement bikes can be a lot of fun even for experienced riders, if you know how to ride. Smaller bikes foster the learning of better riding skills because you cannot just be lazy and simply twist the throttle. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? I teach the classes. Got into it about your age and went with a Virago 750 (similar style). Within a year I realized I was not in love with the Virago. Mainly it didn't fit the style of riding I wanted to do. ie more than just around town Seriously consider how you'll want to use the bike and have that dictate the style of bike you want. 500 cc plus gets you into bikes that can easily handle highway speeds as needed. |
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Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: I started on a CRF300L this spring. Dual sport with the same motor, I quickly got bored of it on roads. Didn't care for having little acceleration power when at highway speeds. I think most people would be fine on the Rebel 500. I already moved onto a CRF450, which is an entirely different beast, but still easily manageable on roads. The 300 is pretty smooth up to ~70 with the gearing/sprockets/windscreen on the Rally dual sport. 75mph wasnt too bad with the +1 front sprocket the previous owner had on. It just has no power to accurate at those speeds. The 450RL starts getting to be a bit much above 60. When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? |
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
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I've yanked the battery and threw away the coolant reservoir. Pulled all the fuses I could find. All looked good. Checked the harnesses and connections I saw Nothing looks amiss Ill get the battery tested tomorrow. I dont see any apparent damage to it There is a tab the coolant reservoir mounts to that got bent a little. Otherwise you cant tell it went down on the frame Attached File |
Battle Of West Appalachia Survivor
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: I started on a CRF300L this spring. Dual sport with the same motor, I quickly got bored of it on roads. Didn't care for having little acceleration power when at highway speeds. I think most people would be fine on the Rebel 500. I already moved onto a CRF450, which is an entirely different beast, but still easily manageable on roads. The 300 is pretty smooth up to ~70 with the gearing/sprockets/windscreen on the Rally dual sport. 75mph wasnt too bad with the +1 front sprocket the previous owner had on. It just has no power to accurate at those speeds. The 450RL starts getting to be a bit much above 60. When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? Im guessing he means it gets a little twitchy (get blown around). My KTM 690 was like that around 95-100. |
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Originally Posted By chase45: I've yanked the battery and threw away the coolant reservoir. Pulled all the fuses I could find. All looked good. Checked the harnesses and connections I saw Nothing looks amiss Ill get the battery tested tomorrow. I dont see any apparent damage to it There is a tab the coolant reservoir mounts to that got bent a little. Otherwise you cant tell it went down on the frame https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2729_jpg-3808776.JPG Do you have a multimeter to check the battery voltage? |
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Originally Posted By Wolverine1776: I'm in a similar place as you, next week I turn 37 and I've been feeling the itch for a motorcycle. I'm looking at Honda Rebels, it's a different type of bike than yours. I'm leaning toward the the 500, over the 250 or 300. In your experience so far would you recommend a total beginner starting off on a lower CC, or that intermediary not being too crazy? My wife is 5'4" and was about 130 pounds when she started on a Rebel 500 at 36 years old. She had never driven a manual anything or been on 2 wheels other than a bicycle. It's a great starter bike. To your follow up questions, the 500 kept up fine on highways and even did a trip with some interstate miles and kept up fine. And yes take the class, we did and it was great. |
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Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? The CRF450 is pretty much a full on cross country race dirt bike with a plate. Whatever RPM it's hitting in 6th gear at 60mph isnt comfortable to maintain for too long. The 300L (same engine as rebel 300) remains relatively smooth, even pretty wound out at 70+. I wish 6th gear was just a bit more spaced out on the 450. I could swap a sprocket, but the effect on 1st gear wouldnt be good. |
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Originally Posted By Scrote: Im guessing he means it gets a little twitchy (get blown around). My KTM 690 was like that around 95-100. No, vibrations get pretty bad. It doesnt have a tach and sounds completely different than the 300, no clue what kind of RPM its sitting at. I haven't had it much over 70. |
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Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: The CRF450 is pretty much a full on cross country race dirt bike with a plate. Whatever RPM it's hitting in 6th gear at 60mph isnt comfortable to maintain for too long. The 300L (same engine as rebel 300) remains relatively smooth, even pretty wound out at 70+. I wish 6th gear was just a bit more spaced out on the 450. I could swap a sprocket, but the effect on 1st gear wouldnt be good. Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? The CRF450 is pretty much a full on cross country race dirt bike with a plate. Whatever RPM it's hitting in 6th gear at 60mph isnt comfortable to maintain for too long. The 300L (same engine as rebel 300) remains relatively smooth, even pretty wound out at 70+. I wish 6th gear was just a bit more spaced out on the 450. I could swap a sprocket, but the effect on 1st gear wouldnt be good. Try this and see. https://www.12oclocklabs.com/gearcalc.htm |
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Originally Posted By chase45: Nah I sure dont currently Originally Posted By chase45: Originally Posted By Scrote: Do you have a multimeter to check the battery voltage? Nah I sure dont currently |
USN Retired: APR 1988 - MAY 2008
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch
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Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: The CRF450 is pretty much a full on cross country race dirt bike with a plate. Whatever RPM it's hitting in 6th gear at 60mph isnt comfortable to maintain for too long. The 300L (same engine as rebel 300) remains relatively smooth, even pretty wound out at 70+. I wish 6th gear was just a bit more spaced out on the 450. I could swap a sprocket, but the effect on 1st gear wouldnt be good. Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? The CRF450 is pretty much a full on cross country race dirt bike with a plate. Whatever RPM it's hitting in 6th gear at 60mph isnt comfortable to maintain for too long. The 300L (same engine as rebel 300) remains relatively smooth, even pretty wound out at 70+. I wish 6th gear was just a bit more spaced out on the 450. I could swap a sprocket, but the effect on 1st gear wouldnt be good. I was just wondering so I could compare it to my DR650. Uncomfortable vs unable. |
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
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Originally Posted By Scrote: Im guessing he means it gets a little twitchy (get blown around). My KTM 690 was like that around 95-100. Originally Posted By Scrote: Originally Posted By ALASKANFIRE: Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: I started on a CRF300L this spring. Dual sport with the same motor, I quickly got bored of it on roads. Didn't care for having little acceleration power when at highway speeds. I think most people would be fine on the Rebel 500. I already moved onto a CRF450, which is an entirely different beast, but still easily manageable on roads. The 300 is pretty smooth up to ~70 with the gearing/sprockets/windscreen on the Rally dual sport. 75mph wasnt too bad with the +1 front sprocket the previous owner had on. It just has no power to accurate at those speeds. The 450RL starts getting to be a bit much above 60. When you say the 450 is a bit much above 60 what do you mean? Maxed out struggling? Im guessing he means it gets a little twitchy (get blown around). My KTM 690 was like that around 95-100. I wish I had a 690 or similar. Weight and size like my DR650 with power and suspension |
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
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Only around 6k at 60mph if that's right. I need to calibrate my ears, I may be lugging the shit out of engine that sometimes. The 300 is way smoother at 6-7k RPMs, but its not a race engine. |
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Originally Posted By HammerHammer: I buy the “bro” gloves at every big ride I go to, just as souvenirs. Guess which of these I trust my hands to on a regular basis… https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/367057/IMG_4521-3808393.jpg I ate shit doing a hard scrape in January this year, broke my foot when the bike pancaked on top of it, but the rest of me was good because I was wearing top notch gear. The palm sliders on my gloves took a ton of damage and practically wore off, but they soaked it all up and my hands didn’t. All my gear had armor inserts and despite doing several backwards summersaults on pavement at 45mph, I was barely even sore other than the crushed foot - I think I had a medium grade bruise on one thigh and that was it. Also, good leather will take A FUCKING TON of friction before it wears through, you could conceivably crash in the same leather jacket 4-5 times before you have to replace it. Even if a textile garment earns a good CE rating (which is still acceptable for street riding), it’s completely toast after even a minor slide. Anytime it’s cool enough to do it, I wear all leather gear with armor inserts. The idea of crashing in anything other than leather or Kevlar gives me the Willies… |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By chase45: I've yanked the battery and threw away the coolant reservoir. Pulled all the fuses I could find. All looked good. Checked the harnesses and connections I saw Nothing looks amiss Ill get the battery tested tomorrow. I dont see any apparent damage to it There is a tab the coolant reservoir mounts to that got bent a little. Otherwise you cant tell it went down on the frame https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2729_jpg-3808776.JPG Go to Harbor Freight tomorrow, get a multi-meter. They are like $7, and used to give them away. Use it to test the battery (not likely to fail FWIW) and then trace from there to the ignition switch, the ECU, and find out if it has a tip over sensor. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
Check this video out: KLX300 Dead?! No Power - FIXED |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By chase45: Nah I sure dont currently Bro… essential man equipment. Get one… learn a little about how to use it to check for continuity, ohms, and voltage-that solves most homeowner and vehicle problems. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By Seabee_Mech: Kinda hard to test for electrical problems without a multi-meter and test light, you don't need an expensive fluke just something that checks voltage, amp, ohms and I like one that has a continuity/diode beep. A multi meter is just as essential as any other tool. Get an inexpensive one from walmart or harbor freight. |
World ain't what it seems, is it Gunny?
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Originally Posted By HammerHammer: I buy the "bro" gloves at every big ride I go to, just as souvenirs. Guess which of these I trust my hands to on a regular basis https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/367057/IMG_4521-3808393.jpg I ate shit doing a hard scrape in January this year, broke my foot when the bike pancaked on top of it, but the rest of me was good because I was wearing top notch gear. The palm sliders on my gloves took a ton of damage and practically wore off, but they soaked it all up and my hands didn't. All my gear had armor inserts and despite doing several backwards summersaults on pavement at 45mph, I was barely even sore other than the crushed foot - I think I had a medium grade bruise on one thigh and that was it. Also, good leather will take A FUCKING TON of friction before it wears through, you could conceivably crash in the same leather jacket 4-5 times before you have to replace it. Even if a textile garment earns a good CE rating (which is still acceptable for street riding), it's completely toast after even a minor slide. Anytime it's cool enough to do it, I wear all leather gear with armor inserts. Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Originally Posted By chase45: Maybe 20. 30 tops. I was in the turn. Leaning. Cleared it. Then I dont know. I leaned it decently. Maybe I didn't pick the speed up fast enough from keeping from falling over due to the lean angle. I could have hit some silt or something too. Everything was fine until it wasn't lol. Just remember seeing sparks flying and not being able to believe I put it down as I was sliding They look decent really. The ring finger is the worst from that. Def ground into a bit lol. Looks like someone took a dremel with a grinding wheel to it I was wearing pants and a tshirt. Gloves and the helmet. There is some lights scrapes on the left side of the helmet. My head never hurt. You'll never catch me without the helmet. Also more gear. Im going to do some reflecting on the whole thing as I dive deeper into it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2725_jpg-3807856.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161977/2727_jpg-3807857.JPG Ahh. You bought some 'bro' gloves. There is a reason racers wear leathers everything. I buy the "bro" gloves at every big ride I go to, just as souvenirs. Guess which of these I trust my hands to on a regular basis https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/367057/IMG_4521-3808393.jpg I ate shit doing a hard scrape in January this year, broke my foot when the bike pancaked on top of it, but the rest of me was good because I was wearing top notch gear. The palm sliders on my gloves took a ton of damage and practically wore off, but they soaked it all up and my hands didn't. All my gear had armor inserts and despite doing several backwards summersaults on pavement at 45mph, I was barely even sore other than the crushed foot - I think I had a medium grade bruise on one thigh and that was it. Also, good leather will take A FUCKING TON of friction before it wears through, you could conceivably crash in the same leather jacket 4-5 times before you have to replace it. Even if a textile garment earns a good CE rating (which is still acceptable for street riding), it's completely toast after even a minor slide. Anytime it's cool enough to do it, I wear all leather gear with armor inserts. I still wear all that gear, it's good to go. (Helmet never contacted, I wouldn't wear it if it did) |
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Humbling moment. I backed the R 1250 GS out of the garage, set it on the side stand and decided to get off on the highside for funnsies . well as my foot hit the ground, the bike came up off the side stand and I nearly dropped it. Had to push that heavy bitch back onto the stand. Saved it thankfully. lesson - even though you've done it 20 times sometimes shit changes and you can make a mistake. |
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Originally Posted By bssrf4: Humbling moment. I backed the R 1250 GS out of the garage, set it on the side stand and decided to get off on the highside for funnsies . well as my foot hit the ground, the bike came up off the side stand and I nearly dropped it. Had to push that heavy bitch back onto the stand. Saved it thankfully. lesson - even though you've done it 20 times sometimes shit changes and you can make a mistake. Aren't the GS's made to be dropped?  All the ones I see have crash bars on them. It's like the kickstands are just for when you don't have enough room to lay it on its side.
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Originally Posted By CapedCrusader: Aren't the GS's made to be dropped? All the ones I see have crash bars on them. It's like the kickstands are just for when you don't have enough room to lay it on its side. Originally Posted By CapedCrusader: Originally Posted By bssrf4: Humbling moment. I backed the R 1250 GS out of the garage, set it on the side stand and decided to get off on the highside for funnsies . well as my foot hit the ground, the bike came up off the side stand and I nearly dropped it. Had to push that heavy bitch back onto the stand. Saved it thankfully. lesson - even though you've done it 20 times sometimes shit changes and you can make a mistake. Aren't the GS's made to be dropped? All the ones I see have crash bars on them. It's like the kickstands are just for when you don't have enough room to lay it on its side. I was riding with a couple guys on R 1250 GS when I low sided my 300L messing around power sliding on a gravel road. Old guy laughed and said that was the nice thing about his GS, they just hit the crash bars and bounce back up. |
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Originally Posted By dangerranger61007: I was riding with a couple guys on R 1250 GS when I low sided my 300L messing around power sliding on a gravel road. Old guy laughed and said that was the nice thing about his GS, they just hit the crash bars and bounce back up. A guy in our sport touring club had a serious high speed crash on his GS on the Cherahola Skyway (how you get to the tail of the dragon from the east) and it was pretty much just crash bar damage. The bike was fine and he still rode it that weekend we were there. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat: Battery voltage is only a legit test under load. You're not wrong, but if it only reads like 2 volts, you know there is a problem. Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Go to Harbor Freight tomorrow, get a multi-meter. They are like $7, and used to give them away. Use it to test the battery (not likely to fail FWIW) and then trace from there to the ignition switch, the ECU, and find out if it has a tip over sensor. Get one that makes a beep for continuity! Makes like so much easier. If HF, this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/dm300-pocket-sized-digital-multimeter-64018.html I have an even smaller one that I keep on the bike, like this: https://www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-Digital-Multimeter-Tester-Continuity/dp/B07JW44ZT5 Again, with audible continuity. Excellent find! Was that 20A fuse checked? This could be it! |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By chase45: 10 volts on the battery I've heard that these things can get cranky over a bad battery So maybe? Im going to charge it and ill try it Motorcycle batteries can be fragile. The rule of thumb is do not charge it at a higher amperage rate than a tenth of the battery. So, a 12 AH battery should not be charged at more than 1.2 amps. Did you check that 20A fuse shown in the video? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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A 12V battery showing 10V open-circuit is definitely pushing being non-recoverable. Sulfation. And yeah, it's going to piss off any computers present. |
Happiness=UPS+ORMD
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
See my youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvx8dT3bnLFUvuEQ-N3Z6rg
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Well after reading this and thinking about it for the past few years I took the plunge again. I picked up a nice Suzuki C50 Lehman trike. My knees and hips can't take keeping a bigger bike vertical anymore, and the wife said if I got the trike she would ride with me (she doesn't like two wheelers for some reason). And three wheels are better out here in no mans land where gravel on the road is considered normal. I think riding it home was the most fun i've had with clothes on, it was nice stopping to grab a bunch of snacks then wondering how your going to get them home without loosing half of them. Jim |
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Originally Posted By Cybercop: Well after reading this and thinking about it for the past few years I took the plunge again. I picked up a nice Suzuki C50 Lehman trike. My knees and hips can't take keeping a bigger bike vertical anymore, and the wife said if I got the trike she would ride with me (she doesn't like two wheelers for some reason). And three wheels are better out here in no mans land where gravel on the road is considered normal. I think riding it home was the most fun i've had with clothes on, it was nice stopping to grab a bunch of snacks then wondering how your going to get them home without loosing half of them. Jim 
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Motorcycle batteries can be fragile. The rule of thumb is do not charge it at a higher amperage rate than a tenth of the battery. So, a 12 AH battery should not be charged at more than 1.2 amps. Did you check that 20A fuse shown in the video? Yup I think I have pulled all of them. Even that one under that big red boot. So far they all looked good The battery taking a crap after the hit makes sense. Hoping that is simply how it shakes out Otherwise we are going to be playing electrican up in here
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Battle Of West Appalachia Survivor
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Originally Posted By chase45: Yup I think I have pulled all of them. Even that one under that big red boot. So far they all looked good The battery taking a crap after the hit makes sense. Hoping that is simply how it shakes out Otherwise we are going to be playing electrican up in here If it was me, I'd put a continuity meter across that big fuse to really make sure it is good. Sometimes a fuse can fail and it is hard to see. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: If it was me, I'd put a continuity meter across that big fuse to really make sure it is good. Sometimes a fuse can fail and it is hard to see. Originally Posted By Emoto: Originally Posted By chase45: Yup I think I have pulled all of them. Even that one under that big red boot. So far they all looked good The battery taking a crap after the hit makes sense. Hoping that is simply how it shakes out Otherwise we are going to be playing electrican up in here If it was me, I'd put a continuity meter across that big fuse to really make sure it is good. Sometimes a fuse can fail and it is hard to see. Yep |
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Originally Posted By chase45: 10 volts on the battery I've heard that these things can get cranky over a bad battery So maybe? Im going to charge it and ill try it 10V is low, was it sat with the headlight on or something? Just wondering how a relatively new battery would get dragged down that far from a crash without starting a fire-that’s basically dead. But even at 10V I would expect the dash to light up. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat: A 12V battery showing 10V open-circuit is definitely pushing being non-recoverable. Sulfation. And yeah, it's going to piss off any computers present. A desulphating charger will recover it. I have done this quite a few times-the only time they are unrecoverable is when a cell shorts across the plates from the sulphur crystal growth. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By chase45: Yup I think I have pulled all of them. Even that one under that big red boot. So far they all looked good The battery taking a crap after the hit makes sense. Hoping that is simply how it shakes out Otherwise we are going to be playing electrican up in here I’m not so sure….. without physical damage to the battery I wouldn’t think it’s possible to go from a 14.3V running condition to 10v without leaking electrolyte or starting a fire. We are talking about dumping an entire bike’s worth of energy at once. It might be possible that there is physical damage inside the battery but those lead castings are pretty robust and there isn’t anything else in the battery but acid and the box around it. How long did the bike sit between then the bike was crashed and the first start attempt happen? Was the dash lighting up then? And burn marks near the set or whatever sits close to the positive terminal? |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: A desulphating charger will recover it. I have done this quite a few times-the only time they are unrecoverable is when a cell shorts across the plates from the sulphur crystal growth. Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat: A 12V battery showing 10V open-circuit is definitely pushing being non-recoverable. Sulfation. And yeah, it's going to piss off any computers present. A desulphating charger will recover it. I have done this quite a few times-the only time they are unrecoverable is when a cell shorts across the plates from the sulphur crystal growth. |
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Originally Posted By Torque556: He has shorted cells. An AGM is 2v per cell, 6 cells. 12.0v is very low, and 10v is an obvious internal short. The battery is cooked. Sounds like the issue. You may want to go with lithium,will save several pounds over the oem . Antigravity ATZ7 150 cranking amps OEM battery - 4lb 6oz Antigravity battery - 1lb 4.7oz |