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Posted: 2/9/2020 11:09:13 AM EDT
I started out on a Nikon D90 when they came out shooting JPEG and using iPhoto.  I now have a D850 with the battery expansion pack, 24-70 VR lens, and a 70-200 VR lens.  Currently shooting RAW and running Lightroom. I don't really have any training on it, I just move the sliders around until I feel the image looks 'good'.

These are some pics I took yesterday when we were working a field trail dog and letting my little pup play around.

Do you have any critiques or something I am completely missing.  Any teachers or online courses you recommend?



Link Posted: 2/9/2020 11:46:28 AM EDT
[#1]
For Lightroom tips, watch Anthony Morganti on youtube (and there are many others, but he has some great info).

As far as the camera, you say you are shooting raw, but what mode are you using?
I'd be interested in the exif data on the first pic to see what's going on.
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 12:52:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Only here to say awesome pictures.
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 1:53:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Good looking dog!

My only tip is to get better light.  A black dog in bright, mid day sun, will always be tough because of the contrast.  In order to keep the detail in his black coat, you will often end up blowing out the highlights in the background.  You might try early morning light, which is much softer.
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 3:22:20 PM EDT
[#4]
You have Tier One level gear.   And a sweet pup.

That's all I can add........waiting for the resident experts to stop in.    
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 3:28:59 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
For Lightroom tips, watch Anthony Morganti on youtube (and there are many others, but he has some great info).

As far as the camera, you say you are shooting raw, but what mode are you using?
I'd be interested in the exif data on the first pic to see what's going on.
View Quote
Mode, I'm shooting in full manual if that is what you mean?

These were shot with 2.8 aperture and around 500 on the shutter speed.
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 4:25:43 PM EDT
[#6]
My $0.02.

Your biggest issue with the first is the harsh harsh light.  Nothing you can do about that short of picking a time closer to or during the "golden hour".  I think you have the basic technique down, now you can start experimenting with a lot of post work.

I made some LR edits to what you posted (bearing in mind all I had was the 150kb Imgur image you posted).  My goal was to tone down the highlights, bring up the darks, adjust a little of overall saturation and luminance (and also targeted the blues and oranges), some targeted light and dark adjustment with the local adjustments brush, some sharpening, noise reduction, clarity, dehaze, and some post-crop vignetting (I like that effect, some don't).  I could do a hell of a lot more with the raw.

To my eye it adds a hell of a lot of "presence" to the shot.

Regency Lab_ by FredMan, on Flickr

I'm a huge fan of ETTR (Expose to the Right); overexposing as long as you don't clip the data gives you a "higher signal/noise ratio" and lets you pull back exposure in post while minimizing noise.  You're already shooting raw, so you're halfway there.  I typically aim for +0.7 to +1 EV (and this is something you can set in the body, meaning the little exposure meter at the bottom of the viewfinder will be "corrected" for this overexposure).

Here's an extreme example.

PAT15002 N420AT Spraying Before by FredMan, on Flickr

PAT15002 N420AT Spraying by FredMan, on Flickr

Don't forget about cropping, cropping lets you dictate what you want the final focus to be.  A few examples dog-oriented:

This shot has harsh light but I was able to mitigate it to some degree.
Shadow Air OOC by FredMan, on Flickr

Shadow Air by FredMan, on Flickr

And another.  Same basic technique.

Tracking OOC by FredMan, on Flickr

Tracking by FredMan, on Flickr
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 5:16:11 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Mode, I'm shooting in full manual if that is what you mean?

These were shot with 2.8 aperture and around 500 on the shutter speed.
View Quote
What ISO? 2.8 is fun in the right light, but you really aren't going to get the best results shooting wide open outdoors in bright, direct sunlight, especially with a solid black subject.
I had 2 black great danes that I would shoot a lot, so I feel your pain! Pushing the shutter speed up will darken the background. If the highlights are blown, they cannot be recovered in post.
Get the ISO as low as possible (in those conditions) and push that shutter speed up and keep trying!
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 9:48:26 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My $0.02.

Your biggest issue with the first is the harsh harsh light.  Nothing you can do about that short of picking a time closer to or during the "golden hour".  I think you have the basic technique down, now you can start experimenting with a lot of post work.

I made some LR edits to what you posted (bearing in mind all I had was the 150kb Imgur image you posted).  My goal was to tone down the highlights, bring up the darks, adjust a little of overall saturation and luminance (and also targeted the blues and oranges), some targeted light and dark adjustment with the local adjustments brush, some sharpening, noise reduction, clarity, dehaze, and some post-crop vignetting (I like that effect, some don't).  I could do a hell of a lot more with the raw.

To my eye it adds a hell of a lot of "presence" to the shot.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49511925648_333839a82b_b.jpgRegency Lab_ by FredMan, on Flickr

I'm a huge fan of ETTR (Expose to the Right); overexposing as long as you don't clip the data gives you a "higher signal/noise ratio" and lets you pull back exposure in post while minimizing noise.  You're already shooting raw, so you're halfway there.  I typically aim for +0.7 to +1 EV (and this is something you can set in the body, meaning the little exposure meter at the bottom of the viewfinder will be "corrected" for this overexposure).

Here's an extreme example.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4451/36606899703_3593db213c_b.jpgPAT15002 N420AT Spraying Before by FredMan, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/4362/36566681884_c048d5fb0b_b.jpgPAT15002 N420AT Spraying by FredMan, on Flickr

Don't forget about cropping, cropping lets you dictate what you want the final focus to be.  A few examples dog-oriented:

This shot has harsh light but I was able to mitigate it to some degree.
https://live.staticflickr.com/7825/46392457614_5b80673f94_b.jpgShadow Air OOC by FredMan, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/7903/33240688318_825241cf77_b.jpgShadow Air by FredMan, on Flickr

And another.  Same basic technique.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49219104107_66f2ee4f6e_b.jpgTracking OOC by FredMan, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49142037651_e9fa787df6_b.jpgTracking by FredMan, on Flickr
View Quote
Thanks for the pointers.  I know how to push the exposure up with the right wheel by the trigger on the camera.  I will give that a try, I have always felt about 70% of my shots are a little underexposed even though I'm at 0.0 and the histogram looks good...
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 9:57:51 PM EDT
[#9]
I always thought it is better to underexpose vs overexpose, if you don't correctly expose.

gawd i'm dum.

:/
Link Posted: 2/9/2020 11:07:18 PM EDT
[#10]
You have top-tier gear, so the technical part is just practice.

The hard part is composition, IMO. Start thinking more about what story you are trying to convey and a little less about the technical side.  I have to think hard about composition and framing all the time and I still suck at it.
Link Posted: 2/10/2020 12:22:45 AM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 2/10/2020 12:38:26 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

That may be true for your brand of camera. Most, however, have a LOT of flexibility in recovering highlights. Several stops above what the camera says is over exposed in any case.

Underexposing will certainly preserve those highlights as well, but you will likely add a considerable amount of noise bringing the rest of the image up to proper exposure.

ETTR is not a hard and fast rule, there are situations where it does not work. The big one is super high contrast situations without the ability to use fill flash or something to help balance stuff out.

Nikon cameras in particular tend to be what they call ISO invariant so an image at ISO100 pushed up to ISO6400 equivalent will contain about the same amount of noise as one captured at ISO6400 in camera. Not all sensors can do this. Some are cleaner if done in camera, others are cleaner if done in post.

ETTR at its most basic is trying to improve the signal to noise ratio. Images shot using ETTR require a bit more processing than those done with normal exposure, but they tend to contain a lot more data. Better highlight data, better shadow data, a lot more range than is typically expected.

Someone that is good at ETTR and processing them can damn near get HDR composite level of details and range out of a single raw file without all the weird artifacts that come along with HDR.

ETTR also helps to get less noise than expected for a given ISO value. Part of the reason my D500 shots were virtually indistinguishable from my D750 shots (thus leading to the D750 being sold) was ETTR essentially getting rid of the crop sensor ISO penalty.
View Quote
Wow.   Now I feel even dummer.    

Lots of info there.   Thank u.   You sold your D750 and kept the D500??   That says a lot for the D500, as I love my D750.
Link Posted: 2/10/2020 9:36:40 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I always thought it is better to underexpose vs overexpose, if you don't correctly expose.

gawd i'm dum.

:/
View Quote
Somewhat true for film iirc.
Sensors are different than film. An overexposed negative becomes "bulletproof" so getting any sort of print from it can be difficult, let alone a "good" print.
Sensors can be dialed back in pp.
Link Posted: 2/10/2020 9:37:28 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I always thought it is better to underexpose vs overexpose, if you don't correctly expose.

gawd i'm dum.

:/
View Quote
That may have been the case with film, but definitely not with digital.  Until you clip (exceed the sensor's ability to record the data).

It's analogous to setting the levels when analog audio recording.  You want the signal as high as possible to minimize the noise "floor".  If you set the levels too low you get a lot of hiss.  But if you go over peak then you're exceeding the recording medium's ability to capture the signal and you get distortion.

Not exactly the same, but the same principle.

Digital photography has some o fthe same benefits of digital audio recording:  The noise inherent in the system is extremely low, so low(er) level recordings can be normalized in post processing, but then you're also boosting ther noise introduced by the mics, the cables etc.

I'm not saying ETTR is always the answer, but you can ALWAYS pull it back in post (unless you're clipping) with virtually no noise, but pushing it in post will almost ALWAYS increase noise.
Link Posted: 2/11/2020 1:30:50 AM EDT
[#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm a huge fan of ETTR (Expose to the Right); overexposing as long as you don't clip the data gives you a "higher signal/noise ratio" and lets you pull back exposure in post while minimizing noise.  You're already shooting raw, so you're halfway there.  I typically aim for +0.7 to +1 EV (and this is something you can set in the body, meaning the little exposure meter at the bottom of the viewfinder will be "corrected" for this overexposure)....
View Quote
Plus one for ETTR. I set my D850 to EV +0.7 after experimentation showed me that's the best balance of shadow detail and highlight detail retention for my setup. I also use spot metering for most shots.

For Lightroom tips/tutorials, check out LightroomQueen.com, Tim Grey, Matt Kloskowski, SLRLounge.com, and Julieanne Kost. They all have lots of free content, but also good value for paid tutorials (except Julieanne due to her "evangelist" role for Adobe).
Link Posted: 2/11/2020 1:49:06 AM EDT
[#16]
First pic, biggest problem:  Focus isn't on the eyes.

Moving on, when looking at a photo, the eyes are often drawn toward bright areas.  That makes a black dog a tough subject, especially in bright light with a bright background.  Darken the background, even if it's just a light vignette.  And in the second pic... the dog is in the shadow, that makes it even tougher.

Put some time into keeping your focus where it should be, tracking the dog, and watching for better-lit situations while you do.
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