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Posted: 10/14/2020 1:55:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Of those I've tried so far
Pros: eSun PLA+ Hatchbox PLA Amazon Basics PLA eSun PETG Overture PETG Cons: Sunlu PLA+ |
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Posted: 10/14/2020 3:37:32 PM EDT
[#2]
My favorites:
Fusion Filament HTPLA+ 3D Fuel Pro PLA Atomic Filament PETG OK: Esun PLA+ and PETG are decent but made in China, I have gotten a bad roll before. And the above are just better. Priline TPU CCTree PLA Junk: Sunlu PLA+ |
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Posted: 10/14/2020 7:47:58 PM EDT
[#3]
For abs, pla, petg, I run strictly atomic with excellent results.
Made in USA too. |
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Posted: 10/14/2020 8:53:11 PM EDT
[#4]
I use whatever cheap crap I can find and am not (usually) in the habit of blaming the filament (or printer) if something is getting sidewards.
Different filaments and printers can like different things. Man up and figure out what that is and you will be much better off. I had a roll once that I just hated and could not get to print well to save my life, chalked it up to bad filament. Well, I gave that roll to a buddy with a printer, his prints with it turned out fantastic. Fkr 
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Posted: 10/15/2020 1:55:15 AM EDT
[#5]
I usually run whatever is cheapest and really haven't had too many problems with bad pla. I've even used cheap noname ebay stuff and was happy enough with the results for how cheap it was
. I did recently use a roll of overture red pla that did stand out as easy to use with nice print quality but at $25 it was the most I've ever paid for a roll so there is a you get what you pay for situation here. |
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Posted: 10/15/2020 7:22:40 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted: I have read Hatchbox is really good rated #1 on a google search Their silver is my go to for prototype printing. Good qality to value. Just avoid their Black PLA. Seriously, just the Black. I have had great luck with every other color I have tried from them. Had three spools of black over about two years and ended up pitching every one. Not sure why but by about half way thur the spool the filiment becomes brittle enough it snaps like spigetti and you can't even melt it with a lighter. |
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Posted: 10/15/2020 2:57:14 PM EDT
[#7]
I've done a few spools of Filacube PLA 2 & very happy with the results. Tough & not as brittle as old style PLA, you print it a bit hotter than traditional PLA. Apparently a USA built product unless they are pulling a fast one. Not quite as much color selection as some vendors. eSun PLA+ is another dependable product for me, but not a USA product.
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Posted: 10/16/2020 5:33:51 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Their silver is my go to for prototype printing. Good qality to value. Just avoid their Black PLA. Seriously, just the Black. I have had great luck with every other color I have tried from them. Had three spools of black over about two years and ended up pitching every one. Not sure why but by about half way thur the spool the filiment becomes brittle enough it snaps like spigetti and you can't even melt it with a lighter. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I have read Hatchbox is really good rated #1 on a google search Their silver is my go to for prototype printing. Good qality to value. Just avoid their Black PLA. Seriously, just the Black. I have had great luck with every other color I have tried from them. Had three spools of black over about two years and ended up pitching every one. Not sure why but by about half way thur the spool the filiment becomes brittle enough it snaps like spigetti and you can't even melt it with a lighter. That's very interesting to me. Hatchbox has a good reputation but I've used two rolls and it made the do not buy again list. Both of them were black. |
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Posted: 10/16/2020 5:51:55 PM EDT
[#9]
My Favorites so far:
PLA : Hatchbox, Amazon Basics PETG : Solutech (I print 95% of my projects in PETG) Im printing a part right now in Taulman 910 Nylon that is printing beautifully. |
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Posted: 10/18/2020 8:46:43 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My Favorites so far: PLA : Hatchbox, Amazon Basics PETG : Solutech (I print 95% of my projects in PETG) Im printing a part right now in Taulman 910 Nylon that is printing beautifully. For the 910, are you using an enclosure? I have a roll that I’ve not broken into yet. |
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Posted: 10/18/2020 8:46:54 PM EDT
[#11]
(Oops)
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Posted: 10/18/2020 8:47:21 PM EDT
[#12]
@cudakid03 ^
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Posted: 10/18/2020 9:37:00 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm not at the moment, but I am getting a little warpage on larger parts. Used it to print some parts for the hellfire lower today.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 10/19/2020 1:29:52 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Of those I've tried so far Pros: eSun PLA+ Hatchbox PLA Amazon Basics PLA eSun PETG Overture PETG Cons: Sunlu PLA+ Gotta update my thoughts on Sunlu... The Blue version gave me lots of issues with bed adhesion, but the Green PLA+ has printed quite well for me so far. Just broke into if for a Firebolt Lower, and it's been night and day compared to the Blue PLA+. Might have to give the Blue another shot. |
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Posted: 10/19/2020 7:40:38 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's very interesting to me. Hatchbox has a good reputation but I've used two rolls and it made the do not buy again list. Both of them were black. Yeah, I have had 5-6 other colors from them with little to no issue. Guessing it is something with the pigments they use to make it. At 20+ spools, not counting black, the only other issue I have had one with a rough surface finish on the filiment. It still has the normal cheap filiment issue where if you leave it idel under tension to the hot end for exstended period of time it will get brittle, and possibly break. However, at half the price of prusament which is what I use for finished projects, that is a small inconvenence. |
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Posted: 10/21/2020 5:04:28 PM EDT
[#16]
AIO Robotics PETG filament got me spoiled. Never had to fiddle with it. Recently tried a few other brands and am pulling my hair out trying to get it dialed in.
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Posted: 10/25/2020 3:15:36 AM EDT
[#17]
Inland PETG (bright red) sucks. Cannot stop it from oozing and stringing, doesn't adhere to bed, doesn't even want to fuse to itself.
Trying to print a simple rectangular box, if I lower the temperature to 220 then I get a bunch of separate strands only fused at the corners. If I raise it to 230 the layers fuse but it blobs and strings everywhere. An inch of it oozes out of the print nozzle in the time that it takes to warm up. I can't wait to run out of this spool of garbage so I can go back to something that works. |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 12:12:22 AM EDT
[#18]
I have been using all of these from Amazon and have had no problems at all:
Hatchbox PLA (True Black, Yellow) ZHUOPU PLA in Silk Purple Geeetech PLA (metallic gold) -- this brand has the 3" diameter spools; I needed to make a 74mm spool adapter for my printer so that it wouldn't sit on the printer and not turn YOUSU Silk PLA in Pink |
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Posted: 11/15/2020 12:14:45 PM EDT
[#19]
For the Ender 3 I've had good luck with eSun PLA+ and Overture PLA, both in black. The old Makerbot Mini, Makerbot PLA worked okay in both the black and translucent, but I could never find a combination of settings that would print their white PLA. I haven't tried using it in the Ender though, so there may be a way to get it to go there.
One thing I have noticed about the Overture- it's not spectacularly consistent between rolls, but I haven't had one that I couldn't come up with some way to make it work. For instance, last roll I had no problem printing with a bed temperature of 54, and it didn't matter if I was using the glass bed or the magnetic one, but the current roll I have to use the hairspray trick to get it to adhere, no matter what temperature I set it at. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 8:24:25 AM EDT
[#20]
What is a good orange PLA? I need to print hardware for my Lack stand.
I found the Hatchbox on Amazon, but the reviews say the quality has gone downhill. |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:36:06 AM EDT
[#21]
I've had good luck with Filacube's PLA 2 (second generation). They claim to be USA made filament. Haven't tried their orange, but all the colors I've tried (natural, brown, black, white, green, red) have printed beautifully. Here's an amazon product page. They list both an orange (carrot orange) & a burnt orange (texas longhorn orange).
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Posted: 12/6/2020 10:50:22 AM EDT
[#22]
Thank you. Any idea which might closely match Prusa orange?
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Posted: 12/6/2020 11:20:16 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you. Any idea which might closely match Prusa orange? Prusament Orange PETG
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Posted: 12/6/2020 11:28:19 AM EDT
[#24]
Are the Prusa printer parts printed with PETG? Is that what I should use for the hardware? Shit, this learning curve.
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Posted: 12/6/2020 12:09:15 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are the Prusa printer parts printed with PETG? Is that what I should use for the hardware? Shit, this learning curve. Yes Prusa has printed all their parts from petg for years. Although if you are looking for the best color match it is hard to beat using the same color and material the manufacture used to print the parts in the first place. https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/prusament/801-prusament-petg-prusa-orange-1kg.html |
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Posted: 12/6/2020 12:45:20 PM EDT
[#26]
I'm reading the PETG is less forgiving than PLA, (and needs an enclosure). Will PLA work for the hardware on my enclosure?
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Posted: 12/6/2020 12:49:59 PM EDT
[#27]
Petg does not need an enclosure.
Pla will work, but pla is brittle. It is fine right up until it isn't. |
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Posted: 12/29/2020 6:39:38 PM EDT
[#28]
I busted out a roll of ANYCUBIC red pla that I had bought because of the deals thread. I swear it's the same stuff as overture which means it is printing nicely.
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Posted: 12/30/2020 1:30:39 AM EDT
[#29]
My first Esun PLA+ roll did great.
My second one I've had brittle spots in it twice now and it broke during printing. Currenting calibrating Overture PETG Black with my Ender 5, took a bit to get my bed leveled right so it would stick. Working on retraction settings now. |
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:05:26 PM EDT
[#30]
Esun PLA+ in Blue = Printing great, 1/2 way thru the roll, no breaks, good finish, very little stringing.
Esun PLA+ in Cool White = Snaps after every print, and occasionally in retraction during a print. Snaps in the bowden tube I don't know how many times during a print, and will leave you stringing and blobs like a hot mess when it does. Snaps once at the extruder, once after the extruder, and once at the hole in the filament dehydrator if it's left overnight. Gave up after 1/3 of the roll used, and it's going in the trash. The white free stuff that came with the printer was a better product. |
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:15:50 PM EDT
[#31]
I recently noticed that Prusa is offering three Fiberthree filaments,
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:19:18 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I recently noticed that Prusa is offering three Fiberthree filaments,
Check out 3dxtech. They do a lot of high end stuff. Proto pasta as well. |
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:29:16 PM EDT
[#33]
Had a nice experience with main importer of Esun today. I use a lot of it for my side job. Got a bad roll in the last batch I bought so I shot them and email over the weekend. They noted they had a bad batch and are going to send me a replacement.
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:52:32 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I recently noticed that Prusa is offering three Fiberthree filaments,
You might think Im crazy, but wood fiber filaments might be stronger than the glass or carbon stuff. Interesting results in this vid  How strong is a 3D Printed part? My best guess is the wood fibers are coarse enough to give the plastic something to grab onto, whereas carbon and glass would be too slippery to add strength with as short as they are for this stuff. |
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Posted: 1/11/2021 9:59:54 PM EDT
[#35]
Friend of mine tried to make an AR lower out of spray-glued toilet paper once. Yay wood fiber!
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Posted: 1/15/2021 2:27:59 AM EDT
[#36]
Any particular Nylon with carbon fiber brands to recommend?
Or any to stay far away from? |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 10:14:01 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any particular Nylon with carbon fiber brands to recommend? Or any to stay far away from? I would say stay away from any Chinese stuff. Make sure you have your filament drying system up to par. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 11:18:19 AM EDT
[#38]
New to using eSun PLA+ and have some questions about it.
On the roll, it states optimum hot end temp to be between 215-220. Printing a heat tower with it, my best results come in at 205. My question is, should I print at 205, or the recommended from eSun? Is there any more or less strength from printing at a lower then recommended temp? |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 1:56:46 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: New to using eSun PLA+ and have some questions about it. On the roll, it states optimum hot end temp to be between 215-220. Printing a heat tower with it, my best results come in at 205. My question is, should I print at 205, or the recommended from eSun? Is there any more or less strength from printing at a lower then recommended temp? |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 2:13:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Your tested settings trump their settings. ^ this On both of my machines I print esun pla+ at 220 I've seen people run it anywhere from 200 to 235. At the end of the day run the tests. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 2:36:31 PM EDT
[#41]
Thanks. Kind of what I thought but wanted to make sure before heading into a 3 day mac daddy print.
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Posted: 1/15/2021 3:17:08 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. Kind of what I thought but wanted to make sure before heading into a 3 day mac daddy print. best cosmetic results are usually not the same as the strongest results (layer to layer adhesion), which usually takes higher temps. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 4:23:01 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: New to using eSun PLA+ and have some questions about it. On the roll, it states optimum hot end temp to be between 215-220. Printing a heat tower with it, my best results come in at 205. My question is, should I print at 205, or the recommended from eSun? Is there any more or less strength from printing at a lower then recommended temp? http://www.esun3d.net/products/142.html You might take a closer look at the roll and read the temps again. My rolls all say “205 - 225”, and that’s what their web site suggests. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 4:43:19 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: http://www.esun3d.net/products/142.html You might take a closer look at the roll and read the temps again. My rolls all say “205 - 225”, and that’s what their web site suggests. Sorry you are correct, but in the page that comes in the box, I believe they state most users have best results at the 215-220 temp. |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 4:45:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You may want to define "best results" best cosmetic results are usually not the same as the strongest results (layer to layer adhesion), which usually takes higher temps. This is kind of what I am trying to figure out, because high temps for my Ender 5 v2 causes stringing above 210, should I not worry about the stringing? when attempting to print a lower? |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 6:39:24 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is kind of what I am trying to figure out, because high temps for my Ender 5 v2 causes stringing above 210, should I not worry about the stringing? when attempting to print a lower? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You may want to define "best results" best cosmetic results are usually not the same as the strongest results (layer to layer adhesion), which usually takes higher temps. This is kind of what I am trying to figure out, because high temps for my Ender 5 v2 causes stringing above 210, should I not worry about the stringing? when attempting to print a lower? |
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Posted: 1/15/2021 10:28:31 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. Kind of what I thought but wanted to make sure before heading into a 3 day mac daddy print. Did you manage to score a Vmac upper? Haven't seen them in stock yet. |
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Posted: 1/16/2021 12:56:27 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This is kind of what I am trying to figure out, because high temps for my Ender 5 v2 causes stringing above 210, should I not worry about the stringing? when attempting to print a lower? When I’m printing for strength and not looks I turn it up 5-10 degrees and I don’t worry if there’s some stringing. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 11:30:01 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did you manage to score a Vmac upper? Haven't seen them in stock yet. Nope, MAF has been out of stock for everything it seems. I'm just getting everything ready for when they do become available again. |
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Posted: 1/17/2021 11:36:48 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When I’m printing for strength and not looks I turn it up 5-10 degrees and I don’t worry if there’s some stringing. Cool I kind of did the same thing, printed at 215 and the print looked good, unfortunately I didn't have it center on the bed enough when setting it up in cura and the back of the lower ended up looking like garbage. Also chose the wrong kind of supports, so the thing came off the bed looking like a huge brick. Haha. I have another spool of pla plus on the way so I'll retry with the new settings. |
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