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Posted: 12/4/2018 10:19:50 AM EDT
Anyone ever try these? I understand the play in a drill press and the need to have the press depth locked in place. Something like this (as an example):
 
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Posted: 12/4/2018 11:14:21 AM EDT
[#1]
OST. Been thinking about one of these that I can use on my drill press and metal lathe. Just not sure about their quality (gaps, vibration, etc.) and which brand to get.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 11:56:58 AM EDT
[#2]
I got one for my drill press.
Did some 80% lowers. Take your time, measure and test multiple times. Shallow cuts. Don't try to do it all at one pass. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 12:01:11 PM EDT
[#3]
neat, thanks for making me add it to my amazon cart....
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Posted: 12/4/2018 1:29:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Anyone ever try these? I understand the play in a drill press and the need to have the press depth locked in place. Something like this (as an example): www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUZB8DW They are often still simple ball bearings and not roller bearings. It can work on aluminum or softer material but usually has horrible cut quality on harder material like steel. It is far more useful for precision location and spacing of drilled holes. If you use a flat bottom end mill you can make very nice holes. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 1:35:56 PM EDT
[#5]
I like the idea of using this as a precision positioning device.
If you are serious about doing mill work, get a mill. Or, look for a DIY workspace/ collaborative shop in your area, they often have machine shops where you rent time. I'm lucky that my father has a full metalworking shop. I go over there when I can and work on custom flashlights. 
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Posted: 12/4/2018 1:55:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Drill press shaft bearings are not set up for side loads. They are often still simple ball bearings and not roller bearings. It can work on aluminum or softer material but usually has horrible cut quality on harder material like steel. It is far more useful for precision location and spacing of drilled holes. If you use a flat bottom end mill you can make very nice holes. And drill chuck are mounted on a taper which is not really meant for side loads of milling. And a 3 jaw drill chuck is damn poor at holding side loading also. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 1:57:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Don't waste you money on that POS. spend around 275-300, that will not stand up for long if at all.
Check MSC (they bought out Enco) or McMaster-Carr maybe Grainger |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 2:03:03 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't waste you money on that POS. spend around 275-300, that will not stand up for long if at all. Check MSC (they bought out Enco) or McMaster-Carr maybe Grainger |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 2:21:25 PM EDT
[#9]
I posted this with the idea of finishing 80% lowers. Maybe some other aluminum projects. Not steel. But if I can get something that doesn't break the bank that does steel, I am open to it.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 2:58:52 PM EDT
[#10]
I've tried those milling vises with my drill press before. The problem is that most drill presses aren't rigid enough to do milling work....they are designed to drill, not have side loads put on them. They chatter way to much if you try to mill with them.....it will work in a pinch, but it's pretty crummy looking, and hard on your drill press.
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Posted: 12/4/2018 3:02:25 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've tried those milling vises with my drill press before. The problem is that most drill presses aren't rigid enough to do milling work....they are designed to drill, not have side loads put on them. They chatter way to much if you try to mill with them.....it will work in a pinch, but it's pretty crummy looking, and hard on your drill press. You have to make VERY small cuts. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 4:30:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Enco used to have one in that price range, but they have been bought out by MSC.
These are at McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/cross-slide-tables, Strange as it sounds the larger one is cheaper $339.00 It has been a long time since I priced them (I have a Rong-FU mill-drill I paid $1250.00+ tax brand new in 2002). As others have said a drill press was not designed for side cutting. A mill drill will be a lot more money to start with, but depending on how involved into you want to get into finishing 80%'s it will do what you need to do. I finished a 0% on mine (never again). I build a 1" bore breach loading cannon on mine, milling a .750" x3" breach block and breach block hole in a 3" dia. of stainless steel tubing. there are also CNC mills just made for finishing 80% lowers for around $1100.00 |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 4:48:57 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like the idea of using this as a precision positioning device. If you are serious about doing mill work, get a mill. Or, look for a DIY workspace/ collaborative shop in your area, they often have machine shops where you rent time. I'm lucky that my father has a full metalworking shop. I go over there when I can and work on custom flashlights. https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/tQ27wg.jpg Do you have some info on that beauty of a custom flashlight? I love the shape. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 4:59:37 PM EDT
[#14]
People need to understand - That unit is not really intended for milling.
It allows you to drill a series of holes using the feed dials with repeatable results and decent accuracy. |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 5:15:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @drafterdan Do you have some info on that beauty? I love the shape. You could also use a 5C collet in a hex collet holder |
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Posted: 12/4/2018 5:32:12 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That looks like a spin indexer rather than a dividing head (Read, a lot cheaper). You could also use a 5C collet in a hex collet holder but still good information to have! |
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Posted: 12/5/2018 7:10:18 AM EDT
[#17]
One other thing I forgot to mention is how the chuck is attached to the quill.If it is not threaded it will most likely have some type of taper (ie morse) it might be called a Jacobs taper.
Before I had my mill I was using a sanding drum to open up a 2" pipe tee. If there was too much chatter the chuck would just fall out of the quill. |
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Posted: 12/5/2018 10:29:04 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Anyone ever try these? I understand the play in a drill press and the need to have the press depth locked in place. Something like this (as an example): www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUZB8DW Full disclaimer: My opinion is biased towards real machines since I depend on them for my livelihood. 
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Posted: 12/6/2018 12:39:12 PM EDT
[#19]
Get one of the square column bench top mill-drill machines for limited work.
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Posted: 12/6/2018 2:56:35 PM EDT
[#20]
Dont waste your time with it.
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Posted: 12/8/2018 12:24:27 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@drafterdan Do you have some info on that beauty of a custom flashlight? I love the shape.  yes, it's a spin indexer, not the type that you hit the lever to auto-advance to the next rotated spot. |
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Posted: 12/8/2018 12:29:54 AM EDT
[#22]
It's pretty much crap. There's no rigidity to speak of so only the lightest of cuts is possible with anything even vaguely resembling an acceptable surface finish.
I'd say you'd be better off to save the money toward a mini mill. |
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