User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 2:59:58 PM EDT
[#1]
I do BIAB in an old 15 gallon beer keg. Not for every brew, but fairly often. I have one to do this weekend.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 3:04:41 PM EDT
[#2]
I have never worried about your last sentence. How would the very porous mesh bag change your efficiency? Stir inside the bag as usual.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 3:13:44 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have never worried about your last sentence. How would the very porous mesh bag change your efficiency? Stir inside the bag as usual. I don't know since I have never done all grain either way, but I have been reading that the mash conversion using BIAB is lower than that of the traditional 3 pot all grain method. When you BIAB, after the mash conversion do you squeeze the bag or sparge - or do you simple pull the bag let it drain and carry on with the boil? |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 3:29:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't know since I have never done all grain either way, but I have been reading that the mash conversion using BIAB is lower than that of the traditional 3 pot all grain method. When you BIAB, after the mash conversion do you squeeze the bag or sparge - or do you simple pull the bag let it drain and carry on with the boil? When I lift the bag, I twist as best I can to squeeze it. I then place the bag on a 5 gallon pot and press it. If I need more water for the boil, I'll sparge into the five gallon pot. This weekend is a 14# grain bill, and will absorb maybe 10# of water. I will probably on this one, simply drain and press into the pot and press, maybe sparge. I do however start with at least 7 gal of water. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 3:58:13 PM EDT
[#5]
To be honest, I've only done the efficiency math one time, and I rarely use my hydrometer for beer anymore. I figure if my grainbag is not too sticky after draining, I got most of the sugars.
This weekends brew will be a Two Hearted ale clone, which I have done several times. It'll be good. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 7:47:01 PM EDT
[#6]
No. I mash in a 48qt cooler with a manifold. Still only use one pot.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/29/2021 8:08:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Maybe I'm overthinking hitting the mash conversion pre-boil OG...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 8:20:27 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe I'm overthinking hitting the mash conversion pre-boil OG... You can get a little better conversion if you mill your grains finer. That's one advantage to BIAB. You don't have to worry about a stuck sparge if you do that. But you'll have to buy your own malt mill if you want finer grist than normal. You should do that anyway if you're switching to AG as it gives you control and consistency. Buying milled grain puts you at the mercy of the wanker at the shop running your order through the mill. Some care, some don't. Unmilled grain stores longer too. Mill on brew day. And since you're just getting into AG, remember to play close attention to your mash temps. Your water plays an important role too. My well water sucks for brewing, so I use RO and add back what I want. Water chemistry gives me a headache, but I've managed to stumble my way through it enough to get by with the help of software. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2021 12:09:53 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can get a little better conversion if you mill your grains finer. That's one advantage to BIAB. You don't have to worry about a stuck sparge if you do that. But you'll have to buy your own malt mill if you want finer grist than normal. You should do that anyway if you're switching to AG as it gives you control and consistency. Buying milled grain puts you at the mercy of the wanker at the shop running your order through the mill. Some care, some don't. Unmilled grain stores longer too. Mill on brew day. And since you're just getting into AG, remember to play close attention to your mash temps. Your water plays an important role too. My well water sucks for brewing, so I use RO and add back what I want. Water chemistry gives me a headache, but I've managed to stumble my way through it enough to get by with the help of software. The more I research I do, the more I'm thinking that BIAB is is the way I'm going to go. I'm currently not having any problems holding temps for my partial mash brews or extract steeping grains, I think I have a pretty good handle on that - but there will obviously be a learning curve when going to full volume mash. The city water here is very good and slightly alkaline (I'm waiting on the water report from the city), I also have a PH test meter and refractometer (I think it will be quicker than the hydrometer) coming today. With any luck I should be good to go with the city water with maybe only having to add a little acid for the lighter brews. I have looked at the grain mills, but starting out I think I'll give pre-milled grains a try just to see how things turn out - it goes back to finding storage space for all the stuff when I'm not brewing... But if all goes well then most likely a mill is also in my future, not only for mill control but overall grain costs. Gonna start buying stuff next month! 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/31/2021 12:37:17 PM EDT
[#10]
Op,
If you haven’t looked at the all in one electric systems, they make all grain brewing very simple. I use an Anvil Foundry 10.5. Brewed on it at least 15 times since it came in last summer. For the cost and easy of use, it’s hard to beat I’ve had a burner tree with converted kegs for years, but the ease of use has me using the anvil 99% of the time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/1/2021 10:15:51 PM EDT
[#11]
A little reading for you https://byo.com/article/brew-in-a-bag-techniques/
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/1/2021 10:53:24 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Op, If you haven't looked at the all in one electric systems, they make all grain brewing very simple. I use an Anvil Foundry 10.5. Brewed on it at least 15 times since it came in last summer. For the cost and easy of use, it's hard to beat I've had a burner tree with converted kegs for years, but the ease of use has me using the anvil 99% of the time. But the price tag while not out of the ball park, is still a lot more than it would cost me to go BIAB. I have everything I need for BIAB except a 10 gallon pot and a big bag, it would cost so much less to just get those two things and carry on.... But that Anvil Foundry 10.5 is very nice and if this BIAB thing gets me totally hooked on all grain then there is a very good possibility that the Anvil is in my future! I just did an extract stout today in my garage, a three gallon boil for a 5 gallon batch - I just need a bigger brew pot!   Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/2/2021 5:25:15 PM EDT
[#13]
I did my brew Sunday. About 30 minutes to heat to strike temp, I mashed for 1.5 hrs because I lost track of time, another 30 minutes to get a boil going, 1 hr boil, and about 30 mins to cool it down.
Poured it onto the yeast and trub from my last brew, it was bubbling in about 2 hrs. I'll dry hop tomorrow. I started with ~7 gallons, had ~6 after draining and pressing the bag with a small sparge. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/22/2021 5:12:44 PM EDT
[#14]
When I started brewing again I knew I wanted to go all grain and I wanted a small footprint. I purchased a Brewha system and liked it so much I purchased a second one to keep up with the volume I need. Mine is larger that what you are looking for, 1.5 bbl, but their small systems have just as good of a rep. Is the system less efficient? No. Brewing technique and water quality will get you the mash efficiency you want.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2021 10:19:42 AM EDT
[#15]
I have just sorta started doing BIAB. I took the mesh “worm” off my mash cooler and put a bag in. I add the water to the cooler put my bag in, stir in my crushed grains and let it mash for an hour. I pull the bag out, twist and squeeze as much out as possible, dump that into my kettle, sparge and repeat. Don’t have to worry about a stuck mash/sparge and my temps are controlled.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2021 9:12:38 PM EDT
[#16]
Sorta, I BIAB without the bag. Batch sparge with bazooka tube basically I want to get a grain basket but have 4 mash tuns (6gal, 8gal , and 2 15 gals) trying to figure out which one to get a basket for first to make life easiest). I dont deal with sparge arms/ lauder tuns and the like anymore.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2021 9:35:29 PM EDT
[#17]
Well, I just received everything I need to try BIAB for the first time.
I made a two layer thermal covering out of Reflectix for keeping the kettle warm during the mash. I have a 57,000 BTU burner. I have it all set up as a test in my garage right now and I think it's going to work. I have a PH meter and chemicals for adjusting mash PH, and a refractometer for measuring SG instead of my hydrometer, and a Thermoworks Thermopen for quick tempo measurements. I'm going to make a Celebrator Clone 1.087 OG 17.3lb grain bill in a 10 gallon Kettle with 8 gallons of strike water - I hope it all fits (Beersmith says it will - but the kettle will be quite full for the mash)... I also have a second step 2L yeast starter settling in my refrigerator overnight. Tomorrow is the first try at this...  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2021 1:58:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, I just received everything I need to try BIAB for the first time. I made a two layer thermal covering out of Reflectix for keeping the kettle warm during the mash. I have a 57,000 BTU burner. I have it all set up as a test in my garage right now and I think it's going to work. I have a PH meter and chemicals for adjusting mash PH, and a refractometer for measuring SG instead of my hydrometer, and a Thermoworks Thermopen for quick tempo measurements. I'm going to make a Celebrator Clone 1.087 OG 17.3lb grain bill in a 10 gallon Kettle with 8 gallons of strike water - I hope it all fits (Beersmith says it will - but the kettle will be quite full for the mash)... I also have a second step 2L yeast starter settling in my refrigerator overnight. Tomorrow is the first try at this... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20962/BIAB_1r_jpg-1842896.JPG Looking good! Can’t wait to read the aar. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2021 2:34:28 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looking good! Can't wait to read the aar. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Well, I just received everything I need to try BIAB for the first time. I made a two layer thermal covering out of Reflectix for keeping the kettle warm during the mash. I have a 57,000 BTU burner. I have it all set up as a test in my garage right now and I think it's going to work. I have a PH meter and chemicals for adjusting mash PH, and a refractometer for measuring SG instead of my hydrometer, and a Thermoworks Thermopen for quick tempo measurements. I'm going to make a Celebrator Clone 1.087 OG 17.3lb grain bill in a 10 gallon Kettle with 8 gallons of strike water - I hope it all fits (Beersmith says it will - but the kettle will be quite full for the mash)... I also have a second step 2L yeast starter settling in my refrigerator overnight. Tomorrow is the first try at this... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20962/BIAB_1r_jpg-1842896.JPG Looking good! Can't wait to read the aar.  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2021 4:33:06 PM EDT
[#20]
Whoa! It was a 17.5 lb grain bill - but it all fit, just barely!!!
Guess that's it for grain bill size on this kettle, guess I should have gotten the 15 gallon kettle...  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2021 8:31:53 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Whoa! It was a 17.5 lb grain bill - but it all fit, just barely!!! Guess that's it for grain bill size on this kettle, guess I should have gotten the 15 gallon kettle... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20962/BIAB1Mash_1_jpg-1843873.JPG Woah. You might be able to adjust mash and sparge H20 volumes to fit in that kettle a little easier. You would then drop your mash temp or increase mash time with a thicker mash to get to a similar result. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2021 8:46:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Woah. You might be able to adjust mash and sparge H20 volumes to fit in that kettle a little easier. You would then drop your mash temp or increase mash time with a thicker mash to get to a similar result. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Whoa! It was a 17.5 lb grain bill - but it all fit, just barely!!! Guess that's it for grain bill size on this kettle, guess I should have gotten the 15 gallon kettle... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/20962/BIAB1Mash_1_jpg-1843873.JPG Woah. You might be able to adjust mash and sparge H20 volumes to fit in that kettle a little easier. You would then drop your mash temp or increase mash time with a thicker mash to get to a similar result. That may change in the future though (unless I get a bigger kettle... ). |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2021 9:06:28 PM EDT
[#23]
All-in-all for my first attempt at all grain BIAB I think it went pretty well.
I did spend weeks reading and trying to understand all of the nuances of all grain before trying this. I was amazed at how close everything worked out to compared to the Brewsmith recipe builder. I hit the mash PH dead on with 5ml of lactic acid. Even though the temp in my garage was 60 F, the Reflectix insulator I made for the kettle kept the mash at the proper temp only losing 1 degree per 30 minutes. I hit the grain absorption .04 gallons/pound. so my water volume was correct. I hit my my pre-boil gravity dead on at 1.072. The only small hitch was that I didn't really know what my actual boil-off rate would be so I over guessed on that and had to boil a few extra minutes to get the proper post boil volume and hit the proper post-boil gravity of 1.088. It's in the bucket now in one of my converted wine refrigerators and has some good fermentation going on now at 50 F. This method is a lot more labor intensive than extract - but I like the ability to make my own recipes so I think this is going to work fine for me!      |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2021 7:01:24 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All-in-all for my first attempt at all grain BIAB I think it went pretty well. I did spend weeks reading and trying to understand all of the nuances of all grain before trying this. I was amazed at how close everything worked out to compared to the Brewsmith recipe builder. I hit the mash PH dead on with 5ml of lactic acid. Even though the temp in my garage was 60 F, the Reflectix insulator I made for the kettle kept the mash at the proper temp only losing 1 degree per 30 minutes. I hit the grain absorption .04 gallons/pound. so my water volume was correct. I hit my my pre-boil gravity dead on at 1.072. The only small hitch was that I didn't really know what my actual boil-off rate would be so I over guessed on that and had to boil a few extra minutes to get the proper post boil volume and hit the proper post-boil gravity of 1.088. It's in the bucket now in one of my converted wine refrigerators and has some good fermentation going on now at 50 F. This method is a lot more labor intensive than extract - but I like the ability to make my own recipes so I think this is going to work fine for me! https://a4.pbase.com/g12/72/325172/2/171448432.k9KRmyRN.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/o12/72/325172/1/171448433.7ffQTcwV.BIAB1MashDone_2.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/g12/72/325172/2/171448429.gfPEGIyb.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/o12/72/325172/1/171448430.a3BFkrCo.BIAB1Drain_1.jpg https://a4.pbase.com/o12/72/325172/1/171448431.33CAGHwA.BIAB1Ferm_1r.jpg Good stuff! All grain is great! I have made some surprisingly good brews even with a freezer clean out hop bill... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 8:43:43 AM EDT
[#25]
Boil off rates can vary with the weather (ambient temp and humidity), then there is the size and surface area of the boil kettle. That can have a direct impact on your gravity. After you've done it a while you will get a feel for how hard to run the boil.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 12:01:44 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Boil off rates can vary with the weather (ambient temp and humidity), then there is the size and surface area of the boil kettle. That can have a direct impact on your gravity. After you've done it a while you will get a feel for how hard to run the boil. Yeah, I'm trying to dial in several things. Ambient temp of course varies, humidity here is usually always low and probably not a major factor. I live at 5400 feet above sea level so water boils here at 202° F instead of 212° , I think that is a big player. I'm also trying to decide if keeping the lid on to minimize the boil-off is better than boiling without the lid - on one hand lid on uses less initial water, but lid on also seems to allow a bunch of messy runoff down the side of the kettle. Before I brewed, I ran a boil-off test by putting 3 gallons of water in the kettle and vigorously boiled it for an hour with the lid on and lost a post boil measured volume of .9 gallons which is what I'm currently using in my brew software. After some further investigation, it turns out my initial pre-boil water amount was high. I had the BIAB software grain absorption set to .08 gallons/pound when it should have been set to ~ .045 gallons/pound - that almost exactly accounted for my excess post boil volume. I'll learn....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 3:56:08 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah, I'm trying to dial in several things. Ambient temp of course varies, humidity here is usually always low and probably not a major factor. I live at 5400 feet above sea level so water boils here at 202° F instead of 212° , I think that is a big player. I'm also trying to decide if keeping the lid on to minimize the boil-off is better than boiling without the lid - on one hand lid on uses less initial water, but lid on also seems to allow a bunch of messy runoff down the side of the kettle. Before I brewed, I ran a boil-off test by putting 3 gallons of water in the kettle and vigorously boiled it for an hour with the lid on and lost a post boil measured volume of .9 gallons which is what I'm currently using in my brew software. After some further investigation, it turns out my initial pre-boil water amount was high. I had the BIAB software grain absorption set to .08 gallons/pound when it should have been set to ~ .045 gallons/pound - that almost exactly accounted for my excess post boil volume. I'll learn.... You generally don't want to boil with the lid on. DMS is driven off during the boil. That's another difference from extract brewing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 4:01:13 PM EDT
[#28]
I tried a lid during a boil once. I don't know why, but it caused a second "hot break" that I didn't see until it boiled over.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 5:11:13 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You generally don't want to boil with the lid on. DMS is driven off during the boil. That's another difference from extract brewing. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Yeah, I'm trying to dial in several things. Ambient temp of course varies, humidity here is usually always low and probably not a major factor. I live at 5400 feet above sea level so water boils here at 202 F instead of 212 , I think that is a big player. I'm also trying to decide if keeping the lid on to minimize the boil-off is better than boiling without the lid - on one hand lid on uses less initial water, but lid on also seems to allow a bunch of messy runoff down the side of the kettle. Before I brewed, I ran a boil-off test by putting 3 gallons of water in the kettle and vigorously boiled it for an hour with the lid on and lost a post boil measured volume of .9 gallons which is what I'm currently using in my brew software. After some further investigation, it turns out my initial pre-boil water amount was high. I had the BIAB software grain absorption set to .08 gallons/pound when it should have been set to ~ .045 gallons/pound - that almost exactly accounted for my excess post boil volume. I'll learn.... You generally don't want to boil with the lid on. DMS is driven off during the boil. That's another difference from extract brewing. OK, I'll do another test boil with a few gallons of water with the lid off to measure and re-adjust my boil-off rate. THX. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 5:11:58 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I tried a lid during a boil once. I don't know why, but it caused a second "hot break" that I didn't see until it boiled over. Yeah - I discovered that I really had to throttle back the burner with the lid on... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 5:25:41 PM EDT
[#31]
Yeah, DMS is a thing. More with lightly kilned malts like Pils. It's a nasty creamed corn flavor/aroma. Unlike the slight corn flavor/aroma you get from actually using corn as an adjunct.
The old brewing books always recommended 90 minute boils for pils because of that. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/3/2021 6:14:39 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah, DMS is a thing. More with lightly kilned malts like Pils. It's a nasty creamed corn flavor/aroma. Unlike the slight corn flavor/aroma you get from actually using corn as an adjunct. The old brewing books always recommended 90 minute boils for pils because of that. I'll have to read up on that. The beers that I like (German and Czech styles) use a lot of pils and munich malt. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/4/2021 12:27:41 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll have to read up on that. The beers that I like (German and Czech styles) use a lot of pils and munich malt. Totally a thing although now its much less of a concern with some caveats. The newer info I've seen regarding modern malting methods is that SMM/DMS is less of an issue nowdays except with some of the specialty floor malted malts. Recently with my IPA brewing after seeing a few ppl mention this is I have been doing 20 minute boils since I'm not using traditional bittering charges. No issues with DMS so far. I have heard of ppl doing 5min and even no boils when everything is going into whirlpool. I'd still do a traditional boil for lagers and other light style beers (large amounts of pils or similar) or anything with floor malts or Vienna malts. Brulosophy did some exbeeriments on dms and genus brewing has a couple Videostalking about it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 4/4/2021 11:57:01 AM EDT
[#34]
My efficiency got really good when I started putting a stainless basket on top of my kettle and sparging the bag while it’s suspended over the kettle in the basket. I use a Digiwort as a hot liquor tank and sparge with a ceramic pitcher up to my calculated pre boil volume. I’m getting excellent results with this method.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/10/2021 1:57:22 AM EDT
[#35]
Like most homebrewers I started out brewing with extracts then on to partial stovetop mash. Once I got the bug for all grain my home brewing took on a life of it’s own. I built a 3 tier tower, converted kegs to brew tuns, converted a chest freezer to ferment in controlled temperature, used 10 gallon cornies as fermenters and used CO2 to transfer beer from vessel to vessel. The beer was great but brewing got to be a real chore with all the setting up & clean up. I’d start around 8 am & finished cleaning up around 9 pm. I eventually quit brewing because of it & sold all my gear.
Reading these threads is giving me an itch that needs scratching. I’m retired now and have plenty of time to spare so maybe I’ll start the cycle all over again. ?? |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
