User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:08:28 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Newer BMW if I am not mistaken,you actually have to use the buttons on the dash/wheel to get an oil level reading from a sensor. My '13 BMW X5 has no dipstick. On board display is the only oil level indicator. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:08:33 AM EDT
[#2]
Never tried it, but always heard folks say that AutoRx/Lanolin worked well for gently loosening up and cleaning engines without knocking big chunks of debris loose.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:12:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Re-sample. Something sounds funky with the sample is my first guess. So I’d like a second data point. If a quarter of your crank case is fuel, so approx 1.5qts - that’s a shit load of fuel. You have a ring issue or piston issue that’s causing you to make oil. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I’m feeling spicy tonight. I want someone to explain to me why engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles or 150 hours. Which ever comes first in your world. I had a 2018 Honda CR-V with the 1.5l direct injection turbo engine. Mid winter, with only 300 miles and 40 days on a fresh change, Blackstone showed 23% fuel dilution. What do I win?? Re-sample. Something sounds funky with the sample is my first guess. So I’d like a second data point. If a quarter of your crank case is fuel, so approx 1.5qts - that’s a shit load of fuel. You have a ring issue or piston issue that’s causing you to make oil. Actually its a known problem on this engine. It doesnt build enough heat in cold weather to burn off the fuel. Honda doesn't have a solid fix for it yet. In the US, they have extended the engine warranty to stave off a class action lawsuit. I've seen these engines build so much gas in the oil it trips the check engine light and go into limp mode. Its crazy |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:13:05 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’m guessing you’re running a good dose of biodiesel out there to get corrosion going on like that and the collection of moisture. If I may ask, what sort of application? We change it about the same intervals. It’s a little “early” from my oil sampling data. But I personally want my trucks gone over every other month and greased. If they’re in the shop for a day, there’s enough downtime to change the oil too. As 4 month drain intervals probably is a bit long for our application. I have some slip seat trucks going 75k miles on oil change intervals. Line hauling steel. 2014 or newer volvo sleeper but before the new style injectors.You know Im not sure if it was based out of MO or where I don't remember, our company doesnt endorse biodiesel if a customer doesn't fuel with us they get rebilled for ANY fuel system issues. I do remember it was rusty af and we where like wtf, dealer said whatever so it got injectors(known issue) and ba-bye. We have went to a longer drain interval and I say that as services have been split up due to oil shortages, we where getting less and less of the oil we got delvac 1300. I was going to post this tidbit in the other oil mixing thread a few days ago delvac 15-40 in everthing gas to diesel big engine little engine millions upon million of miles and Hours. Very few failures. Thousands of units. Every deisel engine gets an oil sample. If there is any take away from these threads is change you oil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:14:03 AM EDT
[#5]
Heck off LittlePony.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:14:09 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Actually its a known problem on this engine. It doesnt build enough heat in cold weather to burn off the fuel. Honda doesn't have a solid fix for it yet. In the US, they have extended the engine warranty to stave off a class action lawsuit. I've seen these engines build so much gas in the oil it trips the check engine light and go into limp mode. Its crazy Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I’m feeling spicy tonight. I want someone to explain to me why engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles or 150 hours. Which ever comes first in your world. I had a 2018 Honda CR-V with the 1.5l direct injection turbo engine. Mid winter, with only 300 miles and 40 days on a fresh change, Blackstone showed 23% fuel dilution. What do I win?? Re-sample. Something sounds funky with the sample is my first guess. So I’d like a second data point. If a quarter of your crank case is fuel, so approx 1.5qts - that’s a shit load of fuel. You have a ring issue or piston issue that’s causing you to make oil. Actually its a known problem on this engine. It doesnt build enough heat in cold weather to burn off the fuel. Honda doesn't have a solid fix for it yet. In the US, they have extended the engine warranty to stave off a class action lawsuit. I've seen these engines build so much gas in the oil it trips the check engine light and go into limp mode. Its crazy Sure. I get that. I’d expect 2.3-3.3% 23% is literally over a quart of gasoline in your crank case. I’m guessing black stone misprinted something. A quart of gasoline in your engine oil, your car would basically be a bomb. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:15:16 AM EDT
[#7]
I have only one car and it's old.
Oil changed every 3000 miles. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:16:56 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 2014 or newer volvo sleeper but before the new style injectors.You know Im not sure if it was based out of MO or where I don't remember, our company doesnt endorse biodiesel if a customer doesn't fuel with us they get rebilled for ANY fuel system issues. I do remember it was rusty af and we where like wtf, dealer said whatever so it got injectors(known issue) and ba-bye. We have went to a longer drain interval and I say that as services have been split up due to oil shortages, we where getting less and less of the oil we got delvac 1300. I was going to post this tidbit in the other oil mixing thread a few days ago delvac 15-40 in everthing gas to diesel big engine little engine millions upon million of miles and Hours. Very few failures. Thousands of units. Every deisel engine gets an oil sample. If there is any take away from these threads is change you oil. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’m guessing you’re running a good dose of biodiesel out there to get corrosion going on like that and the collection of moisture. If I may ask, what sort of application? We change it about the same intervals. It’s a little “early” from my oil sampling data. But I personally want my trucks gone over every other month and greased. If they’re in the shop for a day, there’s enough downtime to change the oil too. As 4 month drain intervals probably is a bit long for our application. I have some slip seat trucks going 75k miles on oil change intervals. Line hauling steel. 2014 or newer volvo sleeper but before the new style injectors.You know Im not sure if it was based out of MO or where I don't remember, our company doesnt endorse biodiesel if a customer doesn't fuel with us they get rebilled for ANY fuel system issues. I do remember it was rusty af and we where like wtf, dealer said whatever so it got injectors(known issue) and ba-bye. We have went to a longer drain interval and I say that as services have been split up due to oil shortages, we where getting less and less of the oil we got delvac 1300. I was going to post this tidbit in the other oil mixing thread a few days ago delvac 15-40 in everthing gas to diesel big engine little engine millions upon million of miles and Hours. Very few failures. Thousands of units. Every deisel engine gets an oil sample. If there is any take away from these threads is change you oil. Rust is normally a big sign of heavy bio diesel usage. That’s why I brought it up. 25k miles on delvac 1300 sounds about right. Going to a synthetic blend would be over all better. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:17:36 AM EDT
[#9]
I’d like to do some testing just to see what it says. I’m afraid I’ll have to do it for everything and that sounds spendy.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:20:05 AM EDT
[#10]
Agreed.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:20:35 AM EDT
[#11]
Lots of things can impact how far a car can go between changes.
Tend to agree the oil wasn't the primary culprit. I've seen jiffy-lube type places fuck up an oil change so many ways...Failing to put the air filter in correctly is a big one, or creating an air leak behind it. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:24:22 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sure. I get that. I’d expect 2.3-3.3% 23% is literally over a quart of gasoline in your crank case. I’m guessing black stone misprinted something. A quart of gasoline in your engine oil, your car would basically be a bomb. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I’m feeling spicy tonight. I want someone to explain to me why engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles or 150 hours. Which ever comes first in your world. I had a 2018 Honda CR-V with the 1.5l direct injection turbo engine. Mid winter, with only 300 miles and 40 days on a fresh change, Blackstone showed 23% fuel dilution. What do I win?? Re-sample. Something sounds funky with the sample is my first guess. So I’d like a second data point. If a quarter of your crank case is fuel, so approx 1.5qts - that’s a shit load of fuel. You have a ring issue or piston issue that’s causing you to make oil. Actually its a known problem on this engine. It doesnt build enough heat in cold weather to burn off the fuel. Honda doesn't have a solid fix for it yet. In the US, they have extended the engine warranty to stave off a class action lawsuit. I've seen these engines build so much gas in the oil it trips the check engine light and go into limp mode. Its crazy Sure. I get that. I’d expect 2.3-3.3% 23% is literally over a quart of gasoline in your crank case. I’m guessing black stone misprinted something. A quart of gasoline in your engine oil, your car would basically be a bomb. Yup you are totally correct. Most owners only catch on there is a problem when the "oil" shows 2 quarts over full. It's not a misprint, it's a actual thing on that engine. Us poor saps living in the cold climates need take note and watch the stick. *****anyone with a Honda 1.5L DI Turbo take note***** Call your dealer and ask about the TSB addressing poor cold weather heating and oil dilution. Have your model year checked for needed updates. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:25:39 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: A doctor drives a 200k mile Camry? I only made it 3 min in. Was it synthetic oil? I very much doubt a 10k oil interval on synthetic would contribute to an engine rebuild. Sounds like clickbait nonsense. It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:29:05 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: go a little further to 12:45. he shows it's the oil control rings that have seized up and damaged the cylinder walls Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: A doctor drives a 200k mile Camry? I only made it 3 min in. Was it synthetic oil? I very much doubt a 10k oil interval on synthetic would contribute to an engine rebuild. Sounds like clickbait nonsense. It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:31:45 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I follow the guidance the car gives me, in this case my BMW tells me every 10k. I do my 1997 LC at shorter 3-5k intervals but it mainly sits around these days. I'm guessing the previous owners of my E46 followed the oil change minder light/owners manual, which is 15k miles. May have also not used the correct oil. There was more burned oil crud than I care to see when I pulled the valve cover at 170k miles. I stick to 7-8k miles in all my vehicles. I drive old shit boxes. Oil is cheap and it gives me a chance to get under the car and check things over. I also run my cars way harder than most people. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:39:33 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: A doctor drives a 200k mile Camry? I only made it 3 min in. Was it synthetic oil? I very much doubt a 10k oil interval on synthetic would contribute to an engine rebuild. Sounds like clickbait nonsense. It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. I wish arfcom actually did have a "Would sign up for your newsletter" option. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:39:39 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Toyota and their oil control rings. I've a 1ZZ-FE 2001 Corolla and that engine is notorious for the oil control rings to get carboned up. Then you get massive oil consumption. The four drain-back holes behind the ring is too small and either needs to be drilled out larger or a new version of the piston installed upon rebuild. The interim solution is to change the oil religiously no more than 4k miles on my particular engine. I haven't had an issue with oil consumption yet, but I'm waiting. Yep that one motor in those early 2000’s Corollas are just like every other model they made in the last 50 years. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:39:48 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: A doctor drives a 200k mile Camry? I only made it 3 min in. Was it synthetic oil? I very much doubt a 10k oil interval on synthetic would contribute to an engine rebuild. Sounds like clickbait nonsense. It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:45:20 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: he seems to say that gunk/sludge from the oil got into the rings and seized them Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: A doctor drives a 200k mile Camry? I only made it 3 min in. Was it synthetic oil? I very much doubt a 10k oil interval on synthetic would contribute to an engine rebuild. Sounds like clickbait nonsense. It is. I went to where he diagnosed the failure point - cylinder walls - and stopped. I feel bad for giving him a click. Yep. Got to that part. Still not a failure of the engine oil. The rings failed to do their job - and why? Engine design failure. Still an oem design failure. Oil doesn’t come pre-packed with sludge. That means, typically, it oxidized out. Premature oxidation is a sign of over heating, harsh shearing or contamination typically. Since we don’t see this in every engine, it goes back to my point - oem engine builder. If your engine is forcing the condemnation point of oil, prematurely, there is a mechanical design flaw in the engine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:47:47 AM EDT
[#20]
Oil has changed and now that oil doesn't have zinc.. I change it every 3k.
It looks dirty already at 3k. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:49:14 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oil has changed and now that oil doesn't have zinc.. I change it every 3k. It looks dirty already at 3k. What does zinc have to do with it? It’s a plating anti wear additive. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 12:57:21 AM EDT
[#22]
I've been doing 10K oil changes on my 2ZR-FXE since new. 110K miles and it burns significant oil. I know the oil control rings are stuck, because this is a known issue.
Now I'm wondering if I should have done 5K oil changes. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:03:33 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've been doing 10K oil changes on my 2ZR-FXE since new. 110K miles and it burns significant oil. I know the oil control rings are stuck, because this is a known issue. Now I'm wondering if I should have done 5K oil changes. Try an engine systems cleaner. Comes in a quart bottle. Add it right before an oil change. Put it in, run the engine for 10-15 minutes, then change the oil. Sometimes helps. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:06:31 AM EDT
[#24]
@Foxtrot08
It seems like some days you stress yourself over the GD "experts" in these threads. Don't stress yourself out over it. Many of us highly value your opinion, and it is easy to get burned out on forums arguing with low information people. Or maybe this is your weird fetish, not sure 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:10:41 AM EDT
[#25]
I have it changed at about 8-10% life left per the indicator on the dash. I have them rotate the tires at that time also. I have never had any issues doing it this way since I could afford to do so.
Hell no I don’t do any of this stuff myself anymore because I honestly don’t have time or inclination to do so. What type of oil? No idea and I don’t honestly care. We lease our vehicles and never ever keep them beyond the scope of the warranty unless it’s 3rd vehicle we don’t depend on for daily transportation. Unless someone is really into maintaining vehicles I am always surprised that this topic comes up. When I was 16 - 25 and did my own maintenance it wasn’t a hobby it was because I couldn’t afford to have it done for me. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:14:29 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 180K sounds pretty good to me. My Yaris has 176k now. Still runs great. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:21:11 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep that one motor in those early 2000’s Corollas are just like every other model they made in the last 50 years. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Toyota and their oil control rings. I've a 1ZZ-FE 2001 Corolla and that engine is notorious for the oil control rings to get carboned up. Then you get massive oil consumption. The four drain-back holes behind the ring is too small and either needs to be drilled out larger or a new version of the piston installed upon rebuild. The interim solution is to change the oil religiously no more than 4k miles on my particular engine. I haven't had an issue with oil consumption yet, but I'm waiting. Yep that one motor in those early 2000’s Corollas are just like every other model they made in the last 50 years. 2015? Same thing, dude. It's not the oil per se. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:24:24 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hey man. I want people to change oil as much as possible. I fucking love money. But just telling the truth: cylinder wall failures of that level, in 180k miles - isn’t an oil issue. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Psst. Wasn’t the oil. This’ll be fun. Hey man. I want people to change oil as much as possible. I fucking love money. But just telling the truth: cylinder wall failures of that level, in 180k miles - isn’t an oil issue. You're so annoying. The oil rings were seized from varnished, dirty oil. The mechanic in the video has replaced many engines that had the same failure. The owner followed the recommend 10k mile interval and had all maintenance done by the dealer, by the book. The mechanic states that changing the oil at 5k miles prevents oil ring issues on those engines. If you believe that the manufacturer has engine longevity in mind with it's oil change interval recommendation then you're a fool. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:28:18 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought you just add some when the light comes on? I'm known to be overly attentive to oil. Funny thing is, a lady at work drives an old Mazda sedan, it must have over 200k on it. She adds oil when the light comes on. We joke about it, but she's dead serious, that's her system. The fucking thing must be indestructible. Personally I have my oil analyzed by Blackstone and so far the reports are all good. In my car (21 WRX) it really seems like I can go at least 6k like the manual recommends. 4k is as far as I've taken it, but the analysis reports say go ahead and change it at 6k. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:28:59 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You're so annoying. The oil rings were seized from varnished, dirty oil. The mechanic in the video has replaced many engines that had the same failure. The owner followed the recommend 10k mile interval and had all maintenance done by the dealer, by the book. The mechanic states that changing the oil at 5k miles prevents oil ring issues on those engines. If you believe that the manufacturer has engine longevity in mind with it's oil change interval recommendation then you're a fool. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Psst. Wasn’t the oil. This’ll be fun. Hey man. I want people to change oil as much as possible. I fucking love money. But just telling the truth: cylinder wall failures of that level, in 180k miles - isn’t an oil issue. You're so annoying. The oil rings were seized from varnished, dirty oil. The mechanic in the video has replaced many engines that had the same failure. The owner followed the recommend 10k mile interval and had all maintenance done by the dealer, by the book. The mechanic states that changing the oil at 5k miles prevents oil ring issues on those engines. If you believe that the manufacturer has engine longevity in mind with it's oil change interval recommendation then you're a fool. So Toyota specs the wrong interval? Wouldn’t that mean more towards what he’s saying? |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:33:40 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just spent all week out in CA with a major oil company. I'm getting appointed to their technical advisory board. So I'm on PST and just landed back in OH - so EST. Might be mid night. But feels like 9pm for me. Alright so let's look at this from the lowest common denominator. Assuming you're using an oil that *barely* meets spec - some group 2 / group 3 synthetic blend, SN+ oil that you've had hanging around for a while. No name brand. If you're depleting the ad pack in 150 hours - you have a contamination issue. Either you had previously developed sludge. Or you have a mechanical issue that's destroying your oil. Every oil is a compromise. Just, where is the compromise at. You have X amount of space for anti wear additives to attach to the metals. You have Y amount of space for the corrosion inhibitors to attach to the metals. You have Z amount of space for the viscosity modifiers to attach to the metals. Basically, they all share the same space. But you only have so much space. So you're going to trade off - compromise - one for the other somewhere. Thus minor differences. However in the gasoline engine world, the spec box is so tight the compromises are set by the oem. Not by the oil manufacturers. In this case, having heavy cylinder wall wear, to me, points to a mechanical failure / engine design issue. That amount of scuffing to the walls means you're going to have a ton of contamination in the oil. Which, no amount of oil changing will fix. The mechanical issue needs to be addressed first, or the wear is going to get worse and the sooner the oil will fail. So it's not a "change your oil more often" thing - as you're putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound. You need to diagnose why you're having the failure first. Which, if I had to guess on those cylinders - probably some sort of engine imbalance issue or some sort of oil delivery failure. That's the engine builder / designer issue. Not an oil issue. Full synthetic, synthetic blend, whatever - wouldn't of helped. At 5000 or 10000 mile change intervals. Wouldn't of helped. You might have went 10-15% further. But the mechanical issue was still going to be there. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm feeling spicy tonight. I want someone to explain to me why engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles or 150 hours. Which ever comes first in your world. I THINK (and this is solely going off non expert memory lol) that the theory was that the additive pack in the oil was "used up" by that point and the oil was less effective now I'll sit back and listen to the expert (no sarcasm intended at all) and learn as I always do! Thanks for your input into these threads, I almost always learn something from your contribution. I just spent all week out in CA with a major oil company. I'm getting appointed to their technical advisory board. So I'm on PST and just landed back in OH - so EST. Might be mid night. But feels like 9pm for me. Alright so let's look at this from the lowest common denominator. Assuming you're using an oil that *barely* meets spec - some group 2 / group 3 synthetic blend, SN+ oil that you've had hanging around for a while. No name brand. If you're depleting the ad pack in 150 hours - you have a contamination issue. Either you had previously developed sludge. Or you have a mechanical issue that's destroying your oil. Every oil is a compromise. Just, where is the compromise at. You have X amount of space for anti wear additives to attach to the metals. You have Y amount of space for the corrosion inhibitors to attach to the metals. You have Z amount of space for the viscosity modifiers to attach to the metals. Basically, they all share the same space. But you only have so much space. So you're going to trade off - compromise - one for the other somewhere. Thus minor differences. However in the gasoline engine world, the spec box is so tight the compromises are set by the oem. Not by the oil manufacturers. In this case, having heavy cylinder wall wear, to me, points to a mechanical failure / engine design issue. That amount of scuffing to the walls means you're going to have a ton of contamination in the oil. Which, no amount of oil changing will fix. The mechanical issue needs to be addressed first, or the wear is going to get worse and the sooner the oil will fail. So it's not a "change your oil more often" thing - as you're putting a bandaid on a gunshot wound. You need to diagnose why you're having the failure first. Which, if I had to guess on those cylinders - probably some sort of engine imbalance issue or some sort of oil delivery failure. That's the engine builder / designer issue. Not an oil issue. Full synthetic, synthetic blend, whatever - wouldn't of helped. At 5000 or 10000 mile change intervals. Wouldn't of helped. You might have went 10-15% further. But the mechanical issue was still going to be there.  Definitely not an oil issue, but unlikely an engineering/design issue either. The info I gleaned off the video, plus the visual of the the engine bay, I can confidently state it's most likely a 2AR-FE. They've been around since '08 without any major hiccups, unlike the previous gen engine. A cool fact about it is the axis of the crankshaft was shifted by 10 mm relative to the cylinder axis lines to reduce the lateral component of force exerted by the piston on cylinder wall, thus reducing wear to the cylinder walls.  Attached FileThey also had better designed rings, compared to the 2AZ engines, drastically reducing oil consumption over the previous gen. Don't really hear much about them sucking oil. Something must have been seriously wrong for the car in the video to get to that point. Either defective parts, or oil techs that skipped some steps maybe... |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:35:50 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sure. I get that. I’d expect 2.3-3.3% 23% is literally over a quart of gasoline in your crank case. I’m guessing black stone misprinted something. A quart of gasoline in your engine oil, your car would basically be a bomb. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I’m feeling spicy tonight. I want someone to explain to me why engine oil needs to be changed every 5000 miles or 150 hours. Which ever comes first in your world. I had a 2018 Honda CR-V with the 1.5l direct injection turbo engine. Mid winter, with only 300 miles and 40 days on a fresh change, Blackstone showed 23% fuel dilution. What do I win?? Re-sample. Something sounds funky with the sample is my first guess. So I’d like a second data point. If a quarter of your crank case is fuel, so approx 1.5qts - that’s a shit load of fuel. You have a ring issue or piston issue that’s causing you to make oil. Actually its a known problem on this engine. It doesnt build enough heat in cold weather to burn off the fuel. Honda doesn't have a solid fix for it yet. In the US, they have extended the engine warranty to stave off a class action lawsuit. I've seen these engines build so much gas in the oil it trips the check engine light and go into limp mode. Its crazy Sure. I get that. I’d expect 2.3-3.3% 23% is literally over a quart of gasoline in your crank case. I’m guessing black stone misprinted something. A quart of gasoline in your engine oil, your car would basically be a bomb. It's actually a known issue on one of their little engines, I'm guessing this is the one. Yes, people check their dipstick and see their oil levels rising. It's a very strange and well documented design failure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:40:00 AM EDT
[#33]
Lube thread. Did I make it in before the cherrybalmz bros?
 If I'm sober in the morning I'll read this thread and learn something. For now my truck has 150k on it, I change the oil and filter when the little light blinks, same with my wife's car, hers is low mileage, maybe 125k. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:43:35 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wasn’t the oil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:46:52 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They're making them without a dipstick now? This is a joke right? 2018 Audi here. Have to look it up under service on the screen to get oil level. But, you can buy a factory dipstick from the dealer if you choose. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 1:47:40 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have it changed at about 8-10% life left per the indicator on the dash. I have them rotate the tires at that time also. I have never had any issues doing it this way since I could afford to do so. Hell no I don’t do any of this stuff myself anymore because I honestly don’t have time or inclination to do so. What type of oil? No idea and I don’t honestly care. We lease our vehicles and never ever keep them beyond the scope of the warranty unless it’s 3rd vehicle we don’t depend on for daily transportation. Unless someone is really into maintaining vehicles I am always surprised that this topic comes up. When I was 16 - 25 and did my own maintenance it wasn’t a hobby it was because I couldn’t afford to have it done for me. I don't think most people change their own oil to save money. Synthetic oil change at Walmart is around $50. 5 quarts of oil and a good filter is around $38. I don't do it to save $12. I save time doing my own changes. The actual act of changing my oil takes 15 minutes, at most. I keep a stock of oil and filters purchased online or when I was at the store for other things. It would take me that long to hop in my car and drive to the nearest shop, then have to sit around and wait for my car. Why not save time AND money? I also know it was done right, the filter was actually changed, and can check the underside of the vehicle while I'm there. No one trying to sell me cabin air filters or saying my blinker fluid needs topped off for $20. I'm not wealthy, I do pretty much everything car maintenance myself. Most of it is to save money, just not the oil changes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 2:36:25 AM EDT
[#37]
Been doing my own oil changes on my bmws every 7500 miles. two e90s, an f33 and an f39. no issues.
doing my daughter's subaru every 6k miles while under warranty, afterwards, i will switch it to 7500 mile intervals as well. buying oil from fcp euro and using their return program makes it a no brainer. oil changes basically cost me an oil filter and some time. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 2:53:02 AM EDT
[#38]
10-12k without even a second thought - on synthetics (Mobil 1, Amsoil, whatever gm uses, etc ..) . Hundreds of thousands of miles with no issues related to oil change intervals - on multiple vehicles , gas and diesel , over many years .
Even the newer Benz Sprinters' recommended intervals are like 10k . The 3-5k shit is that , shit . |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 2:58:56 AM EDT
[#39]
If I change mine every 5,000 miles then 3 years would have passed on my daily driver.
I change it once a year. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 3:18:17 AM EDT
[#40]
Many years ago a good friend that is a natural mechanic advised me to change my oil every 3,000 miles. Several other mechanics and motorheads have told me the same thing over the years. I am not all that smart, but I am smart enough to listen to good advice from experts.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 3:40:51 AM EDT
[#41]
I started driving in 1973....growing up, dad changed the oil in the vehicles at 3000 miles, like clock work and I did the same in my car. He would buy Quaker State in the quart metal cans at Gibsons.
Fast forward, started using Mobil1 (I am a retired ExxonMobil machinery engineer) in 1982. Now I bring all of my vehicles to the dealership for oil changes, Toyota Landcruiser and 4Runner goes to Toyota and the Jeep JL goes to Jeep. The oil Toyota uses is relabeled Mobil1 and I am pretty sure the same goes for the Jeep. I DO NOT go the 10K intervals like the OEM says to, all vehicles get changed at 5K. Not even worth the risk of extending the changes...when I was working, our oil analysis program was key to machinery reliability. We had some 10,000 gallon oil systems on large machinery with oil that was over 10 years old, maybe older...but analyzed monthly. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 3:47:51 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 180K sounds pretty good to me. LOL My 02 Cummins with 310K MILES laughs. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 5:09:51 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Every 5k... |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 5:10:48 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I thought you just add some when the light comes on? First wife believed this. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:10:57 AM EDT
[#45]
LOL
I am at 320K with 10k oil changes 2006 Prerunner Mobil 1 |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:23:53 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 It seems like some days you stress yourself over the GD "experts" in these threads. Don't stress yourself out over it. Many of us highly value your opinion, and it is easy to get burned out on forums arguing with low information people. Or maybe this is your weird fetish, not sure Either way please keep it up! Half the appeal of this place is some of the neat subject matter gurus who wander through |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:30:06 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Every 5k... I change my own oil and filter every 3,500 miles. It gets me 200,000 to 300,000 miles on my 2nd and 3rd gen 4Runners. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:43:51 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOL I am at 320K with 10k oil changes 2006 Prerunner Mobil 1 I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic in all my vehicles starting around 2005. Ex had an Outback. I changed it for her (using M1) at 3-4k intervals. There were a couple times she didn't get it done until 5k or so. At 175k, it was using around a quart every 1k miles. Some of this I attribute to leaks. She ended up giving the car to her nephew at 250k, who drove it until recently (past 300k). I have an '09 Legacy. It has 140k on the odo and now uses about 3/4 quart every 3k or so. I got it with 62k, and have run M1 in it since the first change. These are done semi annually: Spring and fall. However, if I find I'm getting much over 4k it's done right away. I may try Foxtrot08's engine cleaner at some point as an experiment to see if consumption decreases. From what I understand, it's the nature of the beast with these cars. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:45:49 AM EDT
[#49]
You Boomers don't know shit about Motor Oil.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2022 6:52:56 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They're making them without a dipstick now? This is a joke right? Theyve been making Automatic Transmissions without a dipstick for yrs now . 
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
