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Posted: 10/2/2021 10:57:28 PM EDT
[#1]
Yup, love this stuff
 
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Posted: 10/2/2021 11:25:49 PM EDT
[#2]
I forgot to reset scaling from running some pla for annealing, so I get to run destructive testing and not feel bad
 Looks like I need to bump up the extrusion modifier a few clicks. Infill is at 90%, but the perimeters aren't quite as full as I like to see them. Also, while it took a good amount of force to break the ball mount off, by hand, it did not break along layer lines. This shows good layer adhesion. The flat section of the mount could not be broken by hand, and returned to flat after both my son and I giving it our best to break it.  
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Posted: 10/2/2021 11:59:48 PM EDT
[#3]
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Posted: 10/3/2021 12:11:56 AM EDT
[#4]
What benefits do you see/expect out of this filament that other CF filaments don't exhibit?
I assume this just aids in rigidity and stringing? |
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Posted: 10/3/2021 12:21:29 AM EDT
[#5]
The arfcom pic server is having issues, the pics should work eventually. Quoted: What benefits do you see/expect out of this filament that other CF filaments don't exhibit? I assume this just aids in rigidity and stringing? Certainly more rigid than regular petg, no stringing, ease of printability, still the good temp and chemical resistance of petg, no nasty smells, all good stuff. |
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Posted: 10/3/2021 3:19:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Yeah I have started printing with the Atomic Carbon Fiber PETG and so far it is outstanding!
I printed a menendez mag and it is stiff enough that the mag functions, unlike regular PETG which is too flexible. It should have a huge benefit over PLA+ in that it won't "relax" over time when under stress. This causes the mag lips to spread apart too far over time when printed in PLA+. I printed a phone mount for my motorcycle and it is holding up perfectly to sitting in direct sunlight all day and I trust it to hold my phone at 90 mph. Printed a glock frame with it but I unfortunately haven't had time to test it. I need to do some more testing with it but so far it is a stiffer version of PETG, which may also be stronger and more temp resistant, that is really easy to print well. No enclosure needed, no bad fumes. |
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Posted: 10/3/2021 9:22:31 PM EDT
[#7]
You bastards just cost me another couple of hundred dollars.
  Been thinking of ordering a roll of this stuff for weeks now so I just ordered two 1 kilo rolls, black and dark blue. Plus some hardened steel nozzles and a pack of silicone covers for my MicroSwiss all metal hotend. |
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Posted: 10/3/2021 9:26:27 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You bastards just cost me another couple of hundred dollars. Been thinking of ordering a roll of this stuff for weeks now so I just ordered two 1 kilo rolls, black and dark blue. Plus some hardened steel nozzles and a pack of silicone covers for my MicroSwiss all metal hotend. Should just skip the steel nozzles and just go for the Ruby. 
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Posted: 10/3/2021 10:45:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What benefits do you see/expect out of this filament that other CF filaments don't exhibit? I assume this just aids in rigidity and stringing? Everything that is good about PETG, with most of its failings removed. |
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Posted: 10/3/2021 10:45:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Should just skip the steel nozzles and just go for the Ruby. Tungsten. |
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Posted: 10/13/2021 9:15:37 PM EDT
[#11]
I received the two rolls of Atomic Filament carbon fiber/PETG last Saturday.
Just getting around to trying it out tonight. Will print a PETG heat tower first to see what temp seems best. EDIT: Dammit I forgot to export my profile to save it. |
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Posted: 10/17/2021 7:00:06 AM EDT
[#12]
First print turned out pretty good, its a window regulator part for my car.
Regulator part to be replace, original is crappy pot metal.  Seems to print best at 220 deg, I really think the printer is reading the temps about 10 or 20 degrees lower than it actually is. I have always gotten the best prints with the temps set 10 to 20 degrees lower according to the temp shown than the recommended temps for any filament.  
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Posted: 10/20/2021 11:16:31 AM EDT
[#13]
@Rat_Patrol
Do you think CF PETG (or even CF Nylon) would be strong enough to replace interior door hinges? I have door hinges that squeak like crazy. I've had two different contractors in to try to remove the squeak, and have even replaced the hinges with squeak proof hinges...nothing. I'm guessing the house settled a bit (it's new) and tweaked the frames a bit. Wondering if you think it could hold up. Was thinking of reusing the hinge pins and perhaps putting washers between the plastic fingers to help with wear. But it would be plastic on metal vs metal on metal so I think the squeak would be gone...just don't know if it can handle it. They are just light hollow core doors. |
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Posted: 10/20/2021 11:44:03 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Rat_Patrol Do you think CF PETG (or even CF Nylon) would be strong enough to replace interior door hinges? I have door hinges that squeak like crazy. I've had two different contractors in to try to remove the squeak, and have even replaced the hinges with squeak proof hinges...nothing. I'm guessing the house settled a bit (it's new) and tweaked the frames a bit. Wondering if you think it could hold up. Was thinking of reusing the hinge pins and perhaps putting washers between the plastic fingers to help with wear. But it would be plastic on metal vs metal on metal so I think the squeak would be gone...just don't know if it can handle it. They are just light hollow core doors. I honestly don't have enough experience with the material to say for sure. The standard metal hinge profile is darn thin for structural strength in printed plastic. For that job, I'd probably file out on the hinges for enough room for nylon washers and then get a delrin rod for the pin. Actually, I'd try the delrin rod first. |
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Posted: 10/20/2021 12:59:49 PM EDT
[#15]
SETTINGS
I've been playing with tuning in this filament more the last couple days, here is what I have learned: Stringing is very, very minimal. I ran a temp tower on a mini stringing test and only started getting minor stringing around 285c. No reason to run temps lower than 265/270. Minimal fan is needed, similar to ABS. The cooling fan has minimal but noticeable effect on stringing, but I primarily use it for things such as very small towers on short layer times; basically situations like the mini stringing test. Turning the cooling fan off DRAMATICALLY increases layer adhesion. This has all been done on my Prusa MK3s |
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Posted: 10/20/2021 1:46:17 PM EDT
[#16]
@SenditDoc
@-Obsessed- Printed the gear out in Carbon Fiber PETG. This thing is strong AF. I took a pliers to it to bend the gears over, and could not break one off. You aren't busting this thing applying pressure to it with another piece of plastic. |
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Posted: 10/20/2021 2:11:02 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @SenditDoc @-Obsessed- Printed the gear out in Carbon Fiber PETG. This thing is strong AF. I took a pliers to it to bend the gears over, and could not break one off. You aren't busting this thing applying pressure to it with another piece of plastic. Hah you got excited too I see. Once I get the actual gear I'll let you know of changes. I'm not sure how much different it will be...it may not need any changes at all. I'm sure tolerances aren't super tight on a Nerf gun after all. I know the circle pitch, circle diameter, and tooth count are good. Inner hole may need reaming (or not) and the tooth angle may be a hair off, but that might be my eyes playing tricks on me. |
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Posted: 10/20/2021 3:40:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hah you got excited too I see. Once I get the actual gear I'll let you know of changes. I'm not sure how much different it will be...it may not need any changes at all. I'm sure tolerances aren't super tight on a Nerf gun after all. I know the circle pitch, circle diameter, and tooth count are good. Inner hole may need reaming (or not) and the tooth angle may be a hair off, but that might be my eyes playing tricks on me. Gear sent out today. You're right below me, so should get to you quickly. Doc |
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Posted: 10/24/2021 10:10:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Would anyone feel comfortable printing a lower with it?
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Posted: 10/24/2021 11:04:53 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Would anyone feel comfortable printing a lower with it? I see no reason why not. |
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Posted: 11/3/2021 6:32:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Atomic Filament is fantastic.
I just finished a macdaddy using it and it has held up to over 400 rounds so far. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 10:57:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Out of curiosity I have purchased a roll of this. If all goes well maybe i can print some parts to get my Tornado back among the living.
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Posted: 11/13/2021 1:09:18 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Out of curiosity I have purchased a roll of this. If all goes well maybe i can print some parts to get my Tornado back among the living. Don't forget you need a hardened nozzle. The carbon fiber will chew right through brass. |
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Posted: 11/13/2021 1:51:27 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't forget you need a hardened nozzle. The carbon fiber will chew right through brass. I have a hardened nozzle and Ti heatbreak on the way also. |
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Posted: 11/14/2021 1:09:12 AM EDT
[#25]
After printing the parts for my new hotend in AF CF-PETG... I Like
 I expected to like it. And it so far lives up to expectations. |
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Posted: 11/14/2021 12:09:22 PM EDT
[#26]
The more I use it the more I like it. Seems extremely strong. Easy to print. Totally worth the cost in my opinion.
I found that you can print it with zero cooling and it does great. Theoretically should be better for layer adhesion. |
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Posted: 11/14/2021 10:53:28 PM EDT
[#27]
Atomic Filament CF is amazing stuff. We print a bunch of spools every day and it is probably some of the easiest non-standard filament we work with.
Good folks to work with also. |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 10:34:30 PM EDT
[#28]
Can someone tell me like I am a 5 year old what I need to do to my Ender 3v2 to print with this?
I just picked up the machine as my first a week ago. It sounds like I need a hardened steel nozzle. Do I need any other upgrades to deal with the different temperatures? Is another .4mm nozzle good? Also, can I use my tempered glass bed with this, or does that need to be changed or coated with something? |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 10:41:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can someone tell me like I am a 5 year old what I need to do to my Ender 3v2 to print with this? I just picked up the machine as my first a week ago. It sounds like I need a hardened steel nozzle. Do I need any other upgrades to deal with the different temperatures? Is another .4mm nozzle good? Also, can I use my tempered glass bed with this, or does that need to be changed or coated with something? Hardened nozzle is the only mod, but to maximize the strength I print at 265c with no cooling fan (still no stringing), and I'm not sure you can reach those temps without an all metal hot end, an Ender guy will have to chime in to confirm. On a glass bed, you need a separator agent with petg. A good solution is simple glue stick. |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 10:52:26 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Hardened nozzle is the only mod, but to maximize the strength I print at 265c with no cooling fan (still no stringing), and I'm not sure you can reach those temps without an all metal hot end, an Ender guy will have to chime in to confirm. On a glass bed, you need a separator agent with petg. A good solution is simple glue stick. I just got into 3D printing a few months ago. Have printed exclusively with PLA+. Have even made a nice little pile of cash selling my designs. But I’ve avoided PETG, ABS, etc. As I’m not sure I’m experienced enough yet to tune them in. My Anycubic Vyper will print up to 260c (and 110c for the bed). So I might just have to give this stuff a shot. The Vyper has proven to print most filaments at a slightly lower temp than what’s called for already. Think it has something to do with the volcano style hot end. So 5 degrees shy should be OK. But is this CF actually all it’s cracked up to be? A lot of what I’ve seen suggest the CF (and other infused) filaments are kind of a gimmick. As they don’t contain enough of the other material to actually matter. What makes this stuff different? |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 10:54:23 PM EDT
[#31]
You will also need…A SHRUBBERY!
Jk In all seriousness, I’ve printed PETG on my Ender 3 at 240 degrees. Any more than that you definitely need an all metal hot end. |
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Posted: 11/15/2021 11:37:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just got into 3D printing a few months ago. Have printed exclusively with PLA+. Have even made a nice little pile of cash selling my designs. But I've avoided PETG, ABS, etc. As I'm not sure I'm experienced enough yet to tune them in. My Anycubic Vyper will print up to 260c (and 110c for the bed). So I might just have to give this stuff a shot. The Vyper has proven to print most filaments at a slightly lower temp than what's called for already. Think it has something to do with the volcano style hot end. So 5 degrees shy should be OK. But is this CF actually all it's cracked up to be? A lot of what I've seen suggest the CF (and other infused) filaments are kind of a gimmick. As they don't contain enough of the other material to actually matter. What makes this stuff different? Biggest benefit really is eliminating stringing, even with no part fan. Regular petg it's stringy and gooey, the CF version is not. Shutting off the part fan increases layer adhesion dramatically, increasing strength. The CF petg is also more rigid than regular, for applications that need it. |
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Posted: 11/16/2021 12:05:43 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Biggest benefit really is eliminating stringing, even with no part fan. Regular petg it's stringy and gooey, the CF version is not. Shutting off the part fan increases layer adhesion dramatically, increasing strength. The CF petg is also more rigid than regular, for applications that need it. Gotcha. So eliminating stringing (as compared to normal PETG). Sounds like a good incentive to give it a shot. I haven’t yet found a reason to stop using PLA+. Works in every application I’ve needed. The one brand even has a heat tolerance up to 90c. But it’d be nice to have a non-PLA option that prints well. |
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Posted: 11/16/2021 10:49:42 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just got into 3D printing a few months ago. Have printed exclusively with PLA+. Have even made a nice little pile of cash selling my designs. But I’ve avoided PETG, ABS, etc. As I’m not sure I’m experienced enough yet to tune them in. My Anycubic Vyper will print up to 260c (and 110c for the bed). So I might just have to give this stuff a shot. The Vyper has proven to print most filaments at a slightly lower temp than what’s called for already. Think it has something to do with the volcano style hot end. So 5 degrees shy should be OK. But is this CF actually all it’s cracked up to be? A lot of what I’ve seen suggest the CF (and other infused) filaments are kind of a gimmick. As they don’t contain enough of the other material to actually matter. What makes this stuff different? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Hardened nozzle is the only mod, but to maximize the strength I print at 265c with no cooling fan (still no stringing), and I'm not sure you can reach those temps without an all metal hot end, an Ender guy will have to chime in to confirm. On a glass bed, you need a separator agent with petg. A good solution is simple glue stick. I just got into 3D printing a few months ago. Have printed exclusively with PLA+. Have even made a nice little pile of cash selling my designs. But I’ve avoided PETG, ABS, etc. As I’m not sure I’m experienced enough yet to tune them in. My Anycubic Vyper will print up to 260c (and 110c for the bed). So I might just have to give this stuff a shot. The Vyper has proven to print most filaments at a slightly lower temp than what’s called for already. Think it has something to do with the volcano style hot end. So 5 degrees shy should be OK. But is this CF actually all it’s cracked up to be? A lot of what I’ve seen suggest the CF (and other infused) filaments are kind of a gimmick. As they don’t contain enough of the other material to actually matter. What makes this stuff different? According to atomic's website it is milled carbon fiber, not powder or dust. They claim that is what gives it increased strength and rigidity. They have more info on the website. After printing one roll of it I believe all their claims are true, without any scientific testing, just my observation. |
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Posted: 11/16/2021 3:35:48 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: According to atomic's website it is milled carbon fiber, not powder or dust. They claim that is what gives it increased strength and rigidity. They have more info on the website. After printing one roll of it I believe all their claims are true, without any scientific testing, just my observation. That makes sense. Sure it’s a sample of one. But I’ve seen firsthand a significant difference even with a cheap PLA+ vs a quality PLA+. |
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Posted: 11/16/2021 9:59:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Thanks! I'll order the new nozzle and look at a new all metal end.
I've only been playing with the machine for a week and it's already addictive. I just need to get better at the CAD stuff. |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 2:46:52 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gotcha. So eliminating stringing (as compared to normal PETG). Sounds like a good incentive to give it a shot. I haven’t yet found a reason to stop using PLA+. Works in every application I’ve needed. The one brand even has a heat tolerance up to 90c. But it’d be nice to have a non-PLA option that prints well. CF-PETG also does better with bridging, and eliminates a tradeoff with normal PETG. With the straight plastic you can choose high strength by leaving the part cooling fan off, at the cost of sagging bridges. Alternatively you can get good bridging performance with the fan on, and lose strength. CF-PETG has enough structure from the carbon fiber to not sag, so you can leave the fan off. |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 2:48:19 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks! I'll order the new nozzle and look at a new all metal end. I've only been playing with the machine for a week and it's already addictive. I just need to get better at the CAD stuff. It is worth it to splurge on a tungsten nozzle. Steel's thermal properties put limits on how fast you can print, whereas tungsten is actually a better heat conductor than brass is. |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 2:53:17 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It is worth it to splurge on a tungsten nozzle. Steel's thermal properties put limits on how fast you can print, whereas tungsten is actually a better heat conductor than brass is. So Tungsten is better than the Olsson Ruby? |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 2:54:28 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So Tungsten is better than the Olsson Ruby? Don't know about ruby nozzle properties, though IIRC the real ruby nozzles are far more expensive than a real tungsten. |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 8:41:21 PM EDT
[#41]
Filament showed up today but my hardened nozzle has yet to arrive. C’mon delivery dudes! I want to print.
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Posted: 11/18/2021 10:27:49 PM EDT
[#42]
Parts came in today. Got them swapped in and loaded up a X-Y-Z cube as my first print. It printed fairly well but the details and edges are soft compared to PLA. What settings are you guys using? I printed with the following
Nozzle - 240 Bed - 80 Fan - 0 |
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Posted: 11/18/2021 11:52:35 PM EDT
[#43]
265, 90, no parts fan.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 1:08:47 AM EDT
[#44]
I've been using 265 / 70 / no fan.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:07:13 AM EDT
[#45]
I also print at 265.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 6:38:34 PM EDT
[#46]
Well, that's the end of that. I'm never printing with that garbage again. After one tiny print I have a clog. I should have have learned by now that all metal heat brakes are prone to failure 100% of the time. I was trying to be optimistic and maybe this time things would be different but nope.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:00:55 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well, that's the end of that. I'm never printing with that garbage again. After one tiny print I have a clog. I should have have learned by now that all metal heat brakes are prone to failure 100% of the time. I was trying to be optimistic and maybe this time things would be different but nope. 
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:06:04 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryIf it was PTFE lined, it wouldn't have happened. |
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:30:58 PM EDT
[#49]
My mk3 and my mini both have all metal hot ends, never an issue.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:37:00 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My mk3 and my mini both have all metal hot ends, never an issue. I was hoping that since this one was Ti that it would be OK. It's been my experience that they clog between the first and second print every time. Doesn't matter what kind of variable you change. Everything is apart now and tomorrow when the sun is up, I'll take a torch to it and see if I can melt out the clog. If this doesn't start working, someone on this board is getting a free roll of filament. |
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