Here is the rear Dodge truck Chrisler 9.25 axle.



Here you can see both the good, and the bad. It’s been converted to 4 wheel discs, and they worked very well on the CJ5. I kept the Wilwood propotion valve to use on this, but I will add power brakes. Cool thing is whoever did the conversion used the same calipers as the front. You can hardly see them inthis shot, but the builder mounted new spring pads, without cutting off the old truck pads. They are behind the leafs. The towers were for home made traction bars, but they didn’t allow for spring movement, and kinds put the suspension in a bind. They were just single arms with heim joints at the ends. You can also see how long Napa U-bolts are…

After making the bottom and sides of the frame look nice, the top of it needs the same treatment now. I still have to do the internal coating as well.



My Advance Adaptors motor mounts came in too. (the CJ5 had a homemade set welded in with no rubber to absorb the vibrations) Now I’ll be able to place the Mopar 360 in it’s new home sometime over the winter.

Left = March 24th.
Right = Today.
Slow going, but it's going... and it's gonna be worth it.

I also have an '80 CJ-7.

I like this thread a lot!

Good luck.

I'm quite jealous, I would have loved to buy the CJ7 in the condition you did.

I searched high and low across two states for a CJ in that condition for $3000 and found nothing over the course of a few months. I would have even traded my (admittedly crappy but running) 1965 Mustang for one.

I just want one to cruise in.

When I joined here I had just got my 7 running. I built a 383 that made 450 hp. I know your pain all too well.

I did a front shackle reversal and it made a world of difference in how it drove. 80 mph on the interstate was a cruise. Tom Woods driveshafts. Daystar makes (or made) a poly body bushing kit that was 1" taller. It worked great.

I hate you OP.

This thread has renewed my interest in a Cheep CJ5 to cruise in. My dreams will be crushed by high prices, sloppy lifts, and decades of Northeast winters. Again.

Look out of state. Plenty of good project vehicles still out there if you don't mind the drive. Finding a driveable one may be hard.

Unfortunately I would like to keep it under $3000 which will never happen

You can build a brand new one out of catalogs now

You probably can.  I know you can with the Willys, every part is available aftermarket.

Finally able to get out to do some stuff on the Jeep again today. Shoulder giving me fits pretty bad. VA may be doing surgery again. VFW busy as hell with fish fry season, and losing one bartender after another... Family vacation in a rental house in Florida with 17 people was overwhelming...

ANYWAY... I cut the stock shock mounts off today. I'm doing the Ford truck shock tower thing I read about. Seems like a good inexpensive way to get longer shocks on there.





Here is one of the new shock towers held in front of the stock shock location.



I noticed that the factory shock locations are off center. They are slightly towards the pivot side of the spring. (both front and rear) Is there any significant reason I need to mount the new ones in the same place? I was wanting to mount the new towers straight over the axles. For some reason, that seams to make more sense to me, though I know the axles will move slightly towards the shackle end as the springs compress.

Side note: I took Brandy to a dog park in Destin, FL while we were down there over Thanksgiving. It was the first time she had ever been to one. She didn't even know how to act with the other dogs. Being a service dog, she was trained to ignore other animals. She can get along, but it took 3 trips for her to relax enough to just play with them all, and just act like a dog. They had a sign that reminded people to pick up dog poop, but the wording just seemed funny to me. A long time ago, I remember seeing a funny photo on David Letterman, or Jay Leno, of a shopping cart upside down on a sign that reads "return carts here". It gave me an idea, so I had my son snap a funny photo of Brandy and I by the poop sign. I posted it on a German Shepherd facebook page. Someone made a meme out of it, and now it on several other pages and been shared like 30,000 times... Brandy has gone viral... lol.

The original my son took.



The meme somebody made of us.

Seeing as how I'm getting ready to get the shock towers welded on the frame, and the tabs on the axles, I figured I'd go ahead, and get the motor mounts, and trans mount on as well.



Finances continue to be a stumbling block, and I have decided to forego the idea of swapping to the Dana 300. The Dana 20 was working when I pulled it, I'll just keep using it, and save the expense of having to buy new output shafts, and adapters... Either way, I want to get both the trans and T-case gone through to make sure everything is 100%. Just because I was driving the CJ5 before I tore it down, doesn't mean I won't put these same components in the CJ7, only to have them go south in 6 months...

Upon closer inspection, I noticed that there are signs of abuse... Somebody has been beating on the shift rails.



Then I remember even though it did work, it was difficult to shift at times. It had a twin stick cable shifter (supposedly newly installed) but I never could get it to work independently. Just regular 4 high, or 4 low. Something for the trans guy to check on. I'll be dropping it off Tuesday, along with a spare Dana 20 that came with the CJ5 back when I first got it. The "spare" has a broken rear output shaft, but most of the other parts should be good, including the shift rails.





I'm going to try to have a transmission mount fabbed up using the stock skidplate as the base, but if need be I can have a new crossmember built. The one it was mounted with in the CJ5 had to be cut out. I was a huge piece, welded in, hung real low, and the engine & trans were both mounted solid, with no rubber mounts. Not how I want it done.

Once I get these back I can get the welder over here.  That should be all the welding I'll need til it's time for the cage.

But of course something will come up...

It is a completely different case but looks similar, I went thru the NP205 in my rig.  Refreshingly simple really, I twin sticked it while I was there too.

"Refreshingly simple" you say? It is when I drop it off to have someone else do it. Needle bearings, and I don't get along...

Still debating what to do when it comes time for the axles. I've never set up a ring and pinion before. The axles from the Jeep I was driving had 4.88 gears, but I blew that one hub, and it has a bent long tube. The junkyard axle on it now, is arrow straight, but has 3.55 gears. Both it, and the rear are not rotating right now... At least not by hand.  New bearings and races shouldn't be too hard. I'l probably spring for some good parts here as I won't want to have to tear into them again. Chrome moly 30 spline axles in the front... stuff like that. I know I'm adding some kind of locker. The home made crossover high steer will probably get replaced by a more professionally done set-up. I found one that will also bring the tie-rod up as well. The home made steering arm is short and only held on by two studs.

https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/collections/ford-dana-44-steering/products/dana-44-keyed-tall-high-steer-arms

Mostly big heavy cast iron and steel parts with paper gaskets.  No super-duper silicone to fight with so it all just basically fell apart.  Not much in the way of aluminum parts either, it was designed more like something off my 1950's tractors than my 1980's truck..

And yes, a crack in the garage floor ate a needle bearing, still had fun though.  Heck, I even made my own shift linkages.

Compared to the aluminum transmission where this has to come out before that comes out it and is all super glued together the t-case was a lot more fun to work on.

Damn OP, looking good! You fuckers keep doing these build threads and I'm going to have to get a project going.

Ford shock towers are a great mod.

Transmission, and 2 Dana 20s off to the trans guy. Hopefully he won't take too long to freshen them up, and they can get put in their new home... He said he was busy as hell, but I'm not too worried. Wife already reminded me that Christmas is coming, so I probably won't get much (if any) money this month for Jeep parts... or gun parts... or ammo... or anything cool.

Cool build.

Its very cool that your using a Mercury marauder with a trailer hitch as a parts hauler !

Tagging for updates.

If the twin stick setup is buggered up, JB fabrication out of Oregon has a ton of kits and parts available.

A lot of aftermarket parts sites relabel or resell the JB stuff at marked up prices, just FYI...

The shifter that I have is from there.

I forgot to take in the converter when I dropped off the trans, and t-cases, but I can drop it off next time I'm down in Lafayette. I may just spring for a new converter anyhow since that's what you normally do when you get a rebuild...

Anyway, I went out to see if I could get the mount off the old trans. I had a thought that with the 999, and 727 being from the same family, I just might be able to use the same mount that came on the Jeep originally. I'll take it with me next time I go, and see if the holes line up. The gunk on it was in places a good 1/4 inch thick. I had to scrape it off with a putty knife before taking a brush, and rag to it.

Then I decided to test fit the tub. I don't have any new parts that bolt on easily (nor money to buy any) at the moment. I have to wait to get the trans back, so I can have the motor mounts, and shock towers welded in place. I discovered two things.

1. Just setting it on the frame is a great motivator.



2. I won't be placing the rear towers forward leaning, like from the factory.



There isn't enough room without getting into the fenderwell. If I go straight up, I've plenty of room. The wide full size axles give me the room I need outside the frame rails.

With the wife taking most of our money for Christmas, I decided to do some more test fitting, and planning. Stuff that doesn't require new parts. I put one of the front fenders on to check how centered the front axle is. Not bad, plus still no weight on it...  I think I will spring for new ones though. the rust damage on the sides is pretty bad.



I noticed a bulge in the inner fender right where the shocks went, and there is room in the pocket for the Super Duty shock towers to go in the stock position. In fact, they have to to avoid inner fender mods.



I lined up the shock with my new tabs, and noticed something. The spring plates have a nice mount where the stock shocks went. I bolted up the sway bar to see where it lined up. It's inline, but pointing the wrong direction.



I went to the other side and flipped the plate around. Bingo. I can use the factory sway bar. I'll get longer, adjustable, quick disconnect links to make the fit right, and allow for better trail riding. I can't flip the other side because of the way it bolts to the pumpkin. I'll get that mount cut off the plate, and welded back on pointing the other way.



I can also keep the stock bump stops, if they have something to hit. I got the spring plates from the CJ5 the drivetrain came out of. If I hog out the holes a bit, and cut one of them in half, I'll have two nice bump stop plates. Rather than bump right off the axles, now they will bump off these plates. It should be just high enough to make up for the difference in tires. I'll be running 35s. Recycle baby...

I dropped off the front right spring plate at the welder to have him cut off and turn around that shock bracket, that will now be my sway bar link mount.

I also dropped off the fuel tank at another shop (they have a huge brake) to have a skidplate bent up to match.

When I got home it was just too nice a day not to spend some time on the Jeep, so I headed for the garage to tinker for a bit. I found some stuff out. The fenders on both the green CJ5, and the brown CJ7 were all rusty.



I was hoping to save them since the rust is all in the same spot on all four... the flat side piece. However, I happened on a almost new set for sale on facebook the other day. I had to drive 2 hrs to get them, but I got both for $150. Not a dent or scratch on them.  Of course I had to test fit them.





This is when I fount out that my replacement tub (a 1976) is a bit different. There is no place to mount the top fender brace. I'll have to drill a hole for a bolt when the time comes.



Next I decided to open the box to the tire carrier that goes on the bumper. Sadly I couldn't put it on the spindle. Apparently they sized the bushings just perfect, but now I have the spindle painted. I'll have to get some sand paper and take off the paint. While I was in the back of the tub, I decided to fit up my Army truck tail lights. Had to drill some new holes, and slightly enlarge two existing ones, but they will work just fine.

I got to thinking... 1980 frame, '76 tub, '77 CJ5 fenders, '79 CJ5 windshield, Dodge truck drivetrain, YJ springs, Ford Super Duty shock towers, Army truck lights... I think it has to be named Frankenstein.

That's awesome

those tail lights look badass!

Got the spring plate back from the machine shop the other day. They wanted to get the bracket off in good shape so they ended up digging into the plate a bit to get the factory weld off, but they filled it all back in. Once turned around, they burned in in place and all is well.



Home, and on to test the fit... everything lines up just fine. I'll be using the factory sway bar with my Dodge truck Dana 44... God likes me.



About an hr ago, I got a call from the other machine shop. The fuel tank skid plate is done. They had called me and warned me that it would be much more expensive to do it in one piece. The guy asked If I was ok with a welded two piece one, and I OK'd it. I also went with 3/16ths rather than 1/4, not only to save some $ but some weight.



This is a lot more confidence inspiring than a naked aluminium fuel tank.



I'm wondering now if I should maybe paint the inside of the skid plate with underliner to help cushion between the surfaces. Anyone think there would be a problem with the tank rubbing on the skid plate. Should I have made then contour it so closely to the tank? I will put a couple washers between them to space it down, but nothing I can do about the sides. I had to have the mounting tabs match. I wouldn't think there'd be a problem. Lots of tanks are mounted with straps, but those are so tight there is no movement...

You can pick up fuel tank strap insulation by the roll. I'd lay 3 or 4 strips of that in between the tank and the plate. They sell it in different thickness.

A few beads, or blobs of 50 year silicone may work too. Put it on the inside of the skid, let it set up for a day or two...

So your build is coming along nicely.

One thing that does concern me is the rear shackle angle.

You may want to get some weight  into the bed, and into engine bay to compress those springs down to ride height.

Use an angle gauge to find the shackle angle at ride height.



I would also measure the eye to eye of your springs and do a quick drawing to figure out your shackle swing during droop, and compression.
Lifting a wheel up a couple feet in the air one at a time, using a jack, or cherry picker, or whatever you can rig up,  will also show you any problems that my arise in the future.
Also...IIRC...the RE reverse eye springs are a little short in the eye to eye measurements.

Example of  using articulation to estimate suspension movements.....


Use the pirate link below to help you understand this stuff.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/845026-leaf-spring-shackle-basics.html

_

It's been a busy time with my family due to my mother-in-law having a serious bout with pneumonia. We've spent a lot of time traveling back, and forth to the hospital, and now the rehab center. Top that off with very cold weather (today it was 20 below zero) and nothing is getting done on the Jeep.

However, I did hear from my transmission guy yesterday. It seems that whoever rebuilt the trans the last time didn't put some thrust washer in it and the main shaft bounced back, and forth inside and pretty much ruined the whole damn thing. It was mushroomed on the end, and he couldn't get the planetary off. Some of the clutches were welded together... He was questioning the fact that I was driving it before I took it out of the Jeep. Long story short, I'm looking at $1,400 or so to rebuilt it. Pretty much the entire thing other than the case, and the valve body is toast.

So I'm gonna have to look around junkyards for a good core. I'm also thinking about changing plans to a small block Chevy/700R4 swap if one can be found.

It would be easier to find an LS these days, but that's more money, and more electronics. I'm not rolling in money, and not great at electronics, but I'm considering it. The parts availability and good mileage and power would be nice. At least there is good aftermarket support.

Thanks for that link. Some of those guys over on pirate know their stuff pretty well. I'm subed to that thread, but I haven't read it yet.

Well, it has been forever since I have been able to get anything done on the Jeep. Being a cripple makes life interesting. I have a lot of issues, and my left shoulder has been a big one since last spring. The VA has been dancing around the issue with shots, physical therapy, and the like, but I go under the knife on the 2nd. Lefts see if if gets fixed.

My mother-in-law was very sick since right after Christmas. Bronchitis, then Pneumonia, and finally Congestive Heat Failure. We buried her a week ago today. This left us in a cash bind with the wife being off work taking care of her.

Of course it had to be during this time that our furnace caught fire. We've been heating with a propane powered Mr Buddy, and a Kerosene heater, and a couple electric ones. Our $5,000 deductible insurance doesn't help any...

So... The transmission guy called me a while back, and said there were some big problems. Just because I was driving the '79 CJ5 around prior to tearing it down doesn't mean it was gonna be an easy refresh. Well, I had told him that I wanted it to be 100% so that once it goes in this time, it won't have to come out again...

First thing is he couldn't get the dang thing apart. The output shaft was mushroomed on the end and he couldn't get the planetary and front drum off. There was supposed to be some kind of thrust washer there that was missing.

The pump was scored, as was one other part. (I forget)

I ended up buying a core trans at a junk yard for parts. The output shaft was harder to find. Had to go to Ebay for that. Turns out my "Dodge truck" TF 727 is actually out of an old International. Apparently IH put Mopar stuff in some of their trucks back in the day. This also means there will be no changing over to the Dana 300.

The Dana 20 was gone through, and there were some problems here as well. One of the shift rails was boogered up. I had a spare Dana 20 and a rail was swapped out. One of the shafts was scored from bad roller bearings, but the spare case shaft was also bad so had to buy one. Then I had to get a repair sleeve for the front output yoke on the T-case. There was a groove from the seal on the old one, and my spare T-case is a Jeep model. The IH one is 26 spline, and the Jeep is 10 spline, so I couldn't use that yoke.

He ended up using the core case, as my original case also has 3 different size bolts in the pan from past owners messing things up... It's much cleaner so that will make painting it easier. The interlock pills have been taken out of the t-case so I'll be able to use my twin stick cable shifter. I have both the short IH and the longer Dodge shifter, and kickdown arms for the trans, so I should be able to get whatever shifter I find to work.

Here they are as I picked them up.



A cripple needs the cherry picker to unload when he's all by himself...



For now, I'll just set the unit on a dolly and roll it out of the way.



After I get all healed up from my surgery, I hope to get the engine cleaned up. Then I can mate the power pack together, paint it, get the motor mounts, and trans mounts put in, and have it all sitting in the frame.

Right now I have to hurry up and build a golf hole for Barstool golf for the VFW. I started on that tonight. It's Jeep themed as well, but no photos til it's done.

Probably should have got this a year ago when I started this odyssey, but I finally picked up one of these.



Not sure how much it will help seeing as how there won't be much "Jeep" left in the thing by the time I get her done...

I would put the trans and t-case in seperatly if you don't already plan on doing so.

I haven't done it with a heavy cast iron pig of a t-case but my little aluminum Ranger t-case on a C4 made it all sorts of awkward every chance it could.  It was a constant fight to keep it from turning the transmission.

When I put the M5ODR2 and NP205 in I did it separate.  Still a PITA fighting the 205 into place but it would have been a nightmare to get input and dowels lined up putting it in with the trans.

AMC and International were well known to use parts from a variety of manufacturers.  AMC was especially guilty of this with early XJs having, Chrylser, GM and AMC parts in them.  Makes for an interesting time getting everything back together on some of them.

Nice!

It's 58 out, and sunny... Perfect day to display my rather ordinary rattle can skills on the fuel tank and skidplate. Straight flat surfaces help.

This is exactly what I was afraid was going to happen. Spring was going to come, and the VA was going to schedule my shoulder surgery (on the 2nd) so as to coincide my recovery with the nice weather... After all, we can't have me doing work on my Jeep now can we?







I did get finished with the Jeep related barstool golf hole at my VFW. Of course, as the Commander, I'll be there Saturday for the event. As a matter of fact, I'll be keeping score of the teams as they file through. I put it away soon as I finished it, because we have a fish fry Fri night, but I'll get photos of it Sat.

I would definitely do them separately if I could. I may still, but I have to figure out the mounts for them is the thing. This engine/trans/t-case combo came out of a '79 CJ5 that I bought in running condition. However it was built with home made welded on mounts front and rear... No rubber anywhere.  I can slightly modify the Dana 300 mount, and bolt the Dana 20 to the CJ7 skidplate, then, I'll just have to place the engine in to find out where the motor mounts go... as long as it all clears the tub and radiator. This is why I figure it's best to have it all in one unit. in case I have to move it forward or aft. I have time to plane this out. I have shoulder surgery  on the 2nd, so it won't happen any time soon. Nothing much will after this weekend.

Eureka! The fuel tank and skidplate are in. That may seem like a relatively small milestone to the experienced builder, but to a first time novice like me, I'm very happy. This thing gave me fits today...  I started on it myself, but warned my son (home on spring break) I may need some help once I get to the point of lifting it up, as it will swing around on the cherry picker.



First off, my idea of putting some rubber between the aluminum fuel tank, and the steel skidplate didn't work out too well. The machine shop followed my instructions all too well. I had told them make it to follow the lines of the tank. They did, but it fit so closely, I was worried about it rubbing. Enter the pieces of truck inner tube.



Perfect for cushion. Also perfect for spreading out the skidplate just far enough so the holes no longer matched up... They weren't elongated like those in the tank. I ended up taking them out and just putting one in the bottom.

As if that wasn't enough, my test fit was with the tank only. It has individual tabs. The skidplate is bent with one long tab. That means the straps I was using to lift it with the cherry picker were hitting the last crossmember... She wouldn't go up into place. I had to lower it and re-strap it sideways.



At this point, I told my son this whole mess has pretty much been trial, and error. I've had to repair vehicles before. I've modified them before a bit, but this is the first time I've ever been so bold as to attempt to build one from the frame up.

OK, So it's re-strapped, an up in place. Still won't go. Guess what? Those one piece tabs again. This time on the front edge of the tank. I wasn't thinking about how the crossmember turns down at the outside edges. I just told them to build it that way because it would be more simple. (less expensive)



OK, kid (he's 22) hand me the big grinder with the cut off wheel... He wanted to do it in place, and I almost let him, but the dad got the better of me, and we took it back down. Last thing I need was the wheel getting tweeked and exploding a month or two before he graduates college. He was never interested in learning before, as he was a band kid in high school, and plus I was gone a lot on deployments, so we did this the right way.

Took a long notch out of the passenger side and a tiny one out of the driver side.



Here's where it got bad. After we got that fixed I went arount to the rear to tighten up those, and you guessed it... the one piece tab again. However, it was just w tiny bit where the bumper connects to the rear crossmember, and there would be no having to reach over the rear axle, so I broke my own rule and did it in place. Yes I did a "Do as I say, not as I do." dad thing... Just took like 20 seconds to nip off the corner.



However... It's in.



Probably be the last thing I get to do for a month or two as my shoulder surgery is Tuesday, but I'll probably be trying to tinker a bit on one thing or another... I just hope it works so I can get to fixin' stuff once I'm healed.

Well, the fish fry is over for tonight, and we set up the hole for Barstool Golf in the morning.

Here she is... "Jeep" themed as promised.



I took the fenders, grill, and hood from my old CJ5, and did a M38A1 like paint job on it. The bumper numbers are VFW Post 1279 rather than unit, and vehicle number. They came off the Jeep that the drivetrain came off I'm using for this build. I was going to keep them as spares in case I bang one up on the trail, but they weren't that great anyhow, and being the VFW Commander kinda means you do a bit more... so I donated them.







When the hole isn't set up we put it under this wood carving as a display. We already got lots of remarks on it tonight. This was the first fish fry it was up for.



The hole goes up on end, and rolls away for easy storage in one big piece.

Nice. Did you wire the lights?