Bambu Lab general thread - X1, X2, P1, A1, H2 series (Page 30 of 30)
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Depends on how much you touch it. I havent washed my plates aince I bought my H2D in January, 1300 print hours ago. What is your cleaning process? Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By DFARM: How often are you guys cleaning your build plates? It seems like I start having adhesion issues after 2-3 prints without cleaning. This has been with pla on the textured pei plate that came in the x2d and the super cool plate that I bought separately. The textured plate will have issues with the first layer sticking, the smooth plate seems to be fine at first, then lose grip after the parts are 1/4"-3/8" tall. Depends on how much you touch it. I havent washed my plates aince I bought my H2D in January, 1300 print hours ago. What is your cleaning process? This. Skin oil, moisturizers, etc are the devil. I wash my hands before touching the plates, removing prints, etc, and I use a scraper or pick to get the stuck ones off vs squishing my fingers into the plates. I haven't washed my X1C's plates in 5000+ hours. I'll rub on a bit of glue stick if I'm having issues in one particular spot, but I'm old school. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: AMS HT arrived today. Just got it installed and I have some PETG drying. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/1000010431-3799892.jpg |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Not ideal for Nylon drying, but works fine for keeping it dry while printing. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By killingmachine123: Please let us know how you like it. I've been doing a lot of Nylon lately and I'm thinking about something like this. Not ideal for Nylon drying, but works fine for keeping it dry while printing. |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: why isn't it good for nylon? Most Nylons do best at drying temps 90C or even 100C. Nylon CAN be dried at AMS HT temps, but youll be drying it for 24–36 hours. Recall that drying filament runs an "expiration timeclock" on that roll. PETG, by my experience, has about 50 hours of dry time before it "expires" and it never prints well after that. Nylon Ive not used enough to speak with any authority on it but Ive printed enough PETG to tell you this phenomenon is absoutely real and is technically known as thermal degredation. Based on my limited research you have about 150 hours of drying time before a roll goes bad for nylon. So using lower temps requires more time and thus, you run out the clock in fewer cycles. |
| At this time, my main plans are to learn to print pa6 to make suppressors. But that is a bit down the road. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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I am printing a PETG case for my B&T suppressor. Imported the .svg B&T logo and made it a modifier for the black cap. Changed the filament color to white. When I slice the file, the logo disappears and everything is black. I've watched a bunch of youtube videos but have no idea what I am doing wrong. 
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One of the builder accounts I follow was doing a lot with printing. AI tool to change a picture into a model? (1:18 point) 3d printing stuff |
I would like to remind everyone that disorganized violence is never the answer. - John Carter
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| i use my ams ht for drying my pa6-gf, usually run it at the 80C for 12 hours before printing, no issues ever maybe i have gotten lucky. but i have gone weeks with it not being used sitting in the ams ht ( but im running 2 dehumidifiers in my basement keeping it at around 25 humidity) |
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: Found out the AMS 2 Pro doesn't like the 3D Fuel PCTG spools. It can't get a good enough grip to rotate the spool fast enough to keep the filament on the spool during rewind. Just too much drag from the spool for the roller to overcome. |
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Look inside the ams to see if the spool is dragging on some feature inside. On the original ams, there was a hard limit at about 69 mm wide spools. A hydra mod might be in your future. Hydra for ams 2 |
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Originally Posted By Tholo: Look inside the ams to see if the spool is dragging on some feature inside. On the original ams, there was a hard limit at about 69 mm wide spools. A hydra mod might be in your future. Hydra for ams 2 Looks like the spool width is the issue. Measured out at ballpark 69.7mm (+/-) & acquisition predated their move to "AMS compatible" dimensions. AMS 2 Pro specifies 50 - 68mm for spool width. May just rewind onto a different spool. It pretty much feeds OK, just throws an error on rewind events. |
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Has anyone had issues with the Hobby Lobby "wood" PLA filament? I've had a few rolls and I like the outcome, but my P1A with the AMS, it seems to have feeding issues. I did encounter the failed plastic bracket on the main feed motor at the back of the AMS, that first manifested as problems feeing that wood PLA, then got to the point where it would struggle to feed anything. A plastic piece there? What a dumb idea. I printed a replacement and installed it a couple months back. I just checked it today, because once again, I had issues feeding the wood PLA. While reassembling and reloading the AMS, the one slot that I had the brown in had issues feeding black, but when it backed out the filament, I noticed what looked like light colored dust. Could be the wood PLA is shedding bits and gunking up the works. Ugh. Oh, I also replaced all the tubing before I found that failed feed bracket, so it's all relatively new tubing. I've had good luck with all the other Hobby Lobby PLA I've used, but I think I may need to find some other source for the tan/brown/wood stuff. |
Now she's making $15 an hour as a 'tard wrangler with a degree in women's studies... - tommytrauma
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Any ideas why one roll of pla would have warping/bed adhesion issues and not another? This morning I went to print a single one of the obsessed cereal box desiccant holder things and thought I'd make a green one. I have printed things from this spool before but never one of these. I put it from it's cereal box into the ams(the hygrometer in the box read 10%) and started the print. The main body of the holder kind of twisted and lifted two opposing corners lifted. I started it again and the same thing happened but the little accessories survived. I switched to my textured pei plate and tried again and the same thing happened. I switched to the spool of white that I've printed two other holders with and the print is 2x as far as the best one made it before failing. Both plates were washed after the first failure. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Any ideas why one roll of pla would have warping/bed adhesion issues and not another? This morning I went to print a single one of the obsessed cereal box desiccant holder things and thought I'd make a green one. I have printed things from this spool before but never one of these. I put it from it's cereal box into the ams(the hygrometer in the box read 10%) and started the print. The main body of the holder kind of twisted and lifted two opposing corners lifted. I started it again and the same thing happened but the little accessories survived. I switched to my textured pei plate and tried again and the same thing happened. I switched to the spool of white that I've printed two other holders with and the print is 2x as far as the best one made it before failing. Both plates were washed after the first failure. Even if they are the same brand and material sometimes you need to tweak a little. Increase bed temp 5 C and try again. The cool kids dont like to use glue, but I hate the wasted time of a failed print. 99% of the time I spray my build plate with hair spray. If I'm serious, I'll use vision miner bed adhesive. |
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Originally Posted By Tholo: Is one of them pla+ or some other blend? Even if they are the same brand and material sometimes you need to tweak a little. Increase bed temp 5 C and try again. The cool kids dont like to use glue, but I hate the wasted time of a failed print. 99% of the time I spray my build plate with hair spray. If I'm serious, I'll use vision miner bed adhesive. They're both basic pla from bambu and I've printed other things successfully with both in the past. I also hate the time wasted from failed prints. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
 The Satisfying Downfall of Bambu Lab |
I would like to remind everyone that disorganized violence is never the answer. - John Carter
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I was struggling with my H2D. The right nozzle was failing to load filament and giving errors. I disassembled the extruder, half assed cleaned the nozzles (both .4mm) etc. No go. Left worked, Right didn't. Picked up a .4mm cleaning kit on Amazon, used a "third hand vice", pliers, and a propane torch to clean the problematic nozzle. All is well now. Will be picking up new .4s soon. But glad I managed to fix that 1000 hr nozzle. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By mvintx: I'd say you got your money's worth out of that nozzle. $20 or so for a new one is a cheap price to pay to prevent aggravation. I get aggravated enough at my H2D as it is. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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For those of you feeding PA6CF from the AMS HT, is anyone feeding the filament in the normal fashion vs. using the bypass port in the rear of the cover? My reason for asking is I've been playing with the Bambu Studio (BS) built in flow and PA calibrations. It requires the filament to be recognized by the AMS. When using the bypass mode, BS does not recognize the filament. Heating the filament to 70° apparently keeps it flexible enough for the HT to feed it to the extruder. The question is, would normal feeding via the HT be suitable for printing a suppressor? The one's I've printed so far have been in the bypass mode. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: For those of you feeding PA6CF from the AMS HT, is anyone feeding the filament in the normal fashion vs. using the bypass port in the rear of the cover? My reason for asking is I've been playing with the Bambu Studio (BS) built in flow and PA calibrations. It requires the filament to be recognized by the AMS. When using the bypass mode, BS does not recognize the filament. Heating the filament to 70° apparently keeps it flexible enough for the HT to feed it to the extruder. The question is, would normal feeding via the HT be suitable for printing a suppressor? The one's I've printed so far have been in the bypass mode. It recognizes it just fine. You assign it to the "external" spool. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: It recognizes it just fine. You assign it to the "external" spool. Yes, I've figured that out. I just wondered if it would be a good idea to print a suppressor with the filament loaded into the HT normally. Seems to work OK for doing calibrations. And while I've got your attention, how do you determine the K factor after printing the tower? I know you measure up to the best looking corners but where do you find the K factor associated with that measurement? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Yes, I've figured that out. I just wondered if it would be a good idea to print a suppressor with the filament loaded into the HT normally. Seems to work OK for doing calibrations. And while I've got your attention, how do you determine the K factor after printing the tower? I know you measure up to the best looking corners but where do you find the K factor associated with that measurement? Well I have my own tower that is 0.01 k factor per mm of layer height. But outside of that, look at the preview in the slicer of the calibration, look at that layer, and the k factor displays in the gcode viewer on whatever layer it changes on. Its an M900 command. You can also export the gcode file, open it in a text reader and search. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Well I have my own tower that is 0.01 k factor per mm of layer height. But outside of that, look at the preview in the slicer of the calibration, look at that layer, and the k factor displays in the gcode viewer on whatever layer it changes on. Its an M900 command. You can also export the gcode file, open it in a text reader and search. Yes, you sent me your tower but I couldn't figure out how to find the K factor. This one is your's, Isn't it? Thanks loads. 
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Yes, you sent me your tower but I couldn't figure out how to find the K factor. This one is your's, Isn't it? Thanks loads. https://i.imgur.com/vOSUKK7.jpeg That one isnt. But you can write your own gcode modifier pretty simply and drop it into the layer change gcode of your slicer. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Yes, I've figured that out. I just wondered if it would be a good idea to print a suppressor with the filament loaded into the HT normally. Seems to work OK for doing calibrations. And while I've got your attention, how do you determine the K factor after printing the tower? I know you measure up to the best looking corners but where do you find the K factor associated with that measurement? |
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Just a PSA for all that have a AMS 1....Not sure if the AMS 2 has the same issues. I was having a feeding issue with one of my AMS units. The filament would feed to the AMS hub, hot end, or anyplace in between and then just stop and retract. It would do this several times and error out. You could also hear a slight grinding. I replaced all of the feed tubs and still having same issue. I knew there was no jams since all tubing was new and it was feeding. I was thinking that maybe I was have a motor go out or a voltage issue. I finally took the AMS completely apart and bits of a plastic part starting falling out of the internal hub unit. This small piece that keeps the active extrusion wheel in place was destroyed. You can not buy the part, but someone was nice enough to make one. I replaced it with the new part and the AMS is back in working order. I checked my other AMS that is not used as much and the same piece was cracked too. You might want to check your the next time you replace any internal feed tubes. Attached File Attached File Attached File https://makerworld.com/en/models/896521-bambulab-ams-internal-hub-motor-mount-replacement#profileId-854663 |
| Turned on my H2D this morning and it would not connect via LAN mode. Tried switching back and forth from WIFI to LAN but no luck. Did the firmware update 01.04.00.00 in the hopes it would fix the problem but no luck. Sending a 16.7 mb suppressor file via the cloud is no fun...takes forever. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Turned on my H2D this morning and it would not connect via LAN mode. Tried switching back and forth from WIFI to LAN but no luck. Did the firmware update 01.04.00.00 in the hopes it would fix the problem but no luck. Sending a 16.7 mb suppressor file via the cloud is no fun...takes forever. Why not flash drive and “sneakernet” that over instead? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Turned on my H2D this morning and it would not connect via LAN mode. Tried switching back and forth from WIFI to LAN but no luck. Did the firmware update 01.04.00.00 in the hopes it would fix the problem but no luck. Sending a 16.7 mb suppressor file via the cloud is no fun...takes forever. Did you check to see if the IP address changed? BTW, there are a few reports out there of issues that appeared after going to 1.04.00.00 and disappeared after rolling back to 1.03.00.00. Side note: 1.04.00.00 is not yet available for download as an offline update, 1.03.00.00 is the latest on the download page. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Yes, I've figured that out. I just wondered if it would be a good idea to print a suppressor with the filament loaded into the HT normally. Seems to work OK for doing calibrations. And while I've got your attention, how do you determine the K factor after printing the tower? I know you measure up to the best looking corners but where do you find the K factor associated with that measurement? Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: It recognizes it just fine. You assign it to the "external" spool. Yes, I've figured that out. I just wondered if it would be a good idea to print a suppressor with the filament loaded into the HT normally. Seems to work OK for doing calibrations. And while I've got your attention, how do you determine the K factor after printing the tower? I know you measure up to the best looking corners but where do you find the K factor associated with that measurement? I find the pattern method is easier to read. You can then print the tower to verify results if you want to. |
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Originally Posted By nikdfish: Did you check to see if the IP address changed? BTW, there are a few reports out there of issues that appeared after going to 1.04.00.00 and disappeared after rolling back to 1.03.00.00. Side note: 1.04.00.00 is not yet available for download as an offline update, 1.03.00.00 is the latest on the download page. That was a good suggestion...unfortunately it didn't help. IP address is the same. I've tried binding with the access code and it never, never works. Using the PIN code to bind with WIFI works every time. I rolled back to the previous release of BS and that didn't help either. Argggg. |
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Tried a different approach (for me) when ASA was sticking too good on the textured PEI after cooling. Took a spray bottle witm an elmer's purple glue stick dissolved in water & gave the bed a few spritzs. Then evened out the coverage with a foam paintbrush. Made for a pretty much invisible layer that held while hot & released when cool, no problem. |
| That's a good idea. Thanks for posting. I use both Bambu's and Geetech glue stick on the PEI plate for ASA. They both stick pretty good, the Geetech more so. But they both come off with a little persuasion from the scraping tool. PA6CF really sticks with the Geetech. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: That's a good idea. Thanks for posting. I use both Bambu's and Geetech glue stick on the PEI plate for ASA. They both stick pretty good, the Geetech more so. But they both come off with a little persuasion from the scraping tool. PA6CF really sticks with the Geetech. Alternatively if you don't like messing with that stuff you can also pop the plate in a deep freezer for a couple minutes. Works wonders. 
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Originally Posted By mvintx: That was a good suggestion...unfortunately it didn't help. IP address is the same. I've tried binding with the access code and it never, never works. Using the PIN code to bind with WIFI works every time. I rolled back to the previous release of BS and that didn't help either. Argggg. My Carbon X1 has started doing this. I upgraded the firmware and that didn't help. Went back to a previous version and still no luck. So now I log out of Bambu Studio and power cycle the printer. Then log back on to Bambu Studio and the printer now works. I don't know what's going on but it's very annoying. |
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Four year anniversary, still going strong. 2,080 hours, my little robot friend has done one man-year of additive manufacturing for me. Yeah, not too many hours. I go through times when I print a lot and then times when I don't. Attached File Attached File |
I would like to remind everyone that disorganized violence is never the answer. - John Carter